project car: 94 z/28 m6

[hokeplaya05]

Ok, so I am finally posting a build thread for my car. It is a 94 z/28 Camaro m6 that I bought in November 2012 for $1500. The guy i bought it off said he had blown the original motor and swapped in a lt1 out of an 95 impalla ss and hadnt driven it much after the swap. so i test drove it a bunch and decided to buy it as a project. well halfway home the motor started to develop a ticking noise. i got it home and started trying to diagnose what the noise was as well as doing the usual tune up items and fluid changes. i did a valve adjustment and that seemed to get rid of the noise for the most part. then it started eating through belts like crazy the more i drove it and i figured out that the harmonic balancer was sticking out about a half inch further that the accessories causing the belt to get kicked off. i did some research and found that the crank hub on an impalla pushes the balancer out farther than the f-body hub does. the car already had a K&N intake, edelbrock shorties, magnaflow cat back and a stage 2 ebay clutch. the plan for the car is to be a weekend toy and i want to get into autocross/roadracing with it at some point as well. it will rarely see the dragstrip at all as it will be setup for handling, but it would be fun to see what it runs though.

i will try to bring it up to the present state, but here are some pics of the car when i first got it home
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/ResizedImage_1351121866187_zps17eba0e4.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/ResizedImage_1351121866187_zps17eba0e4.jpg.html)
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/47310_10151339956980119_309731509_n_zps0e92b659.jp g (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/47310_10151339956980119_309731509_n_zps0e92b659.jp g.html)

i decided to pull the motor over the winter and swap in a 383 ltx long block that was built by golen engines here in NH. here are some pics of the
teardown and removal of the motor
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/ResizedImage_1358380463274_zps34306e01.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/ResizedImage_1358380463274_zps34306e01.jpg.html)
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/ResizedImage_1360969831732_zps30830317.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/ResizedImage_1360969831732_zps30830317.jpg.html)
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/ResizedImage_1360969787891_zpseaa25b19.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/ResizedImage_1360969787891_zpseaa25b19.jpg.html)
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/ResizedImage_1360969886752_zps3c87c106.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/ResizedImage_1360969886752_zps3c87c106.jpg.html)

motors out!
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/ResizedImage_1361050059394_zps8ba6bf22.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/ResizedImage_1361050059394_zps8ba6bf22.jpg.html)
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/ResizedImage_1361050178317_zpsa5324fe5.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/ResizedImage_1361050178317_zpsa5324fe5.jpg.html)

heads/intake off
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/ResizedImage_13623565363021_zps70f6ce04.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/ResizedImage_13623565363021_zps70f6ce04.jpg.html)

the new motor has the stock aluminum heads and intake that have been ported and have new springs/valves installed, a cast scat crank, with scat forged i-beam rods and wiseco forged pistons at 9.5:1 compression, along with comp 1.6rr and a custom comp cam (214/224, 555/568, lsa 115). i plan on putting a d1sc @8lbs on it at some point but for now will be running it n/a while i build the drive train and suspension to support that.
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/ResizedImage_1368407159959_zpsd8a3ee61.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/ResizedImage_1368407159959_zpsd8a3ee61.jpg.html)
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/ResizedImage_1368402631259_zps8921bddc.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/ResizedImage_1368402631259_zps8921bddc.jpg.html)

then i assembled the new front end which consists of a BMR tubular k-member, upper and lower adjustable a-arms, and a set of double adjustable viking coilovers with the 550lb springs. i blasted and painted the upper mount and spindles and put new timken hubs on
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/2013-08-26_20-20-16_505_zps1d1dad1b.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/2013-08-26_20-20-16_505_zps1d1dad1b.jpg.html)
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/2013-08-30_15-22-04_570_zps67460742.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/2013-08-30_15-22-04_570_zps67460742.jpg.html)

trans bolted back up. i decided to put the ebay clutch back on since it was brand new and i figured i would give it a try since i have it
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/2013-09-10_18-05-49_725_zps7d9bb99e.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/2013-09-10_18-05-49_725_zps7d9bb99e.jpg.html)

pacesetter longtubes installed, much easier than doing it when the motor is in the car as well as a BMR trans crossmember with torque arm mount and a hust shifter
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/2013-09-16_20-04-10_669_zps3ec79497.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/2013-09-16_20-04-10_669_zps3ec79497.jpg.html)
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/2013-09-16_20-03-31_78_zpsc99cebd7.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/2013-09-16_20-03-31_78_zpsc99cebd7.jpg.html)

lowering the car onto the subframe
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/2013-09-21_16-56-05_150_zps968ad684.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/2013-09-21_16-56-05_150_zps968ad684.jpg.html)

aaand its in!
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/2013-09-21_17-20-37_777_zps2f9d2ad1.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/2013-09-21_17-20-37_777_zps2f9d2ad1.jpg.html)
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/2013-09-21_21-30-27_691_zpse11168ac.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/2013-09-21_21-30-27_691_zpse11168ac.jpg.html)
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/2013-09-21_21-30-40_827_zpsc4ad8f0d.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/2013-09-21_21-30-40_827_zpsc4ad8f0d.jpg.html)

this is my brake setup: stock, repainted calipers with EBC redstuff pads and rotors. i will be getting the same setup for the rear as well. when these wear out i will look into a big brake setup, but for now this will do just fine.
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/2013-09-21_19-50-39_113_zpsd20a9785.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/2013-09-21_19-50-39_113_zpsd20a9785.jpg.html)

i have the radiator and fans reinstalled, BBK 58mm TB installed, brake lines hooked back up (need to bleed them), tick master installed (need to bleed), i have the viking rear coilover kit with 150lb springs from UMI on the way, BMR adjustable panhard bar installed and a set of their adj lower control arms waiting to go on, strano hollow sways, a set of bosch 42lb injectors, and the drive shaft is in. that brings it up to the present.

let me know what you guys think or if you have any suggestions!

[hokeplaya05]

i am trying to get the car done and driving for when the snow melts, which should be in the next month or so. i still have to hook up the engine harness, top off fluids, bleed the brakes and clutch, find a set of valve covers that will clear the roller rockers (thinking cantons) install my alt and belt, finish up the exhaust (install ORY, cutout and magnaflow cat back), install the SLP CAI i got off a member here and get a tune. over the summer i will update the wheels with a set of black c6 zo6 18x10.5s on all four corners from OE wheels and 295/35s tires.

future plans are an aluminum driveshaft, moser 12 bolt rear with 4.10s and LSD, big brake kit, McLeod RXT clutch when the ebay one goes, a cowl hood (still deciding on what brand, leaning towards a harwood), install my Mcnord lt1 front bumper and SS wing and paint the car. then farther down the road i want to put a d1sc supercharger kit on with FMIC at around 8lbs of boost. will probably go with e85 and meth for fuel with dual in tank walbro 255s.

[blkchevyz]

damn nice work. not wasting any time.

[hokeplaya05]

thanks! yea i didnt waste any time at first, but now i am dragging my heals....i hadnt touched the car in 3 months until last weekend when i did work on it for a couple hours and got some small stuff done. i think once the weather warms up a bit, i can get motivated to work on it again and get it done and driving

[SD94z]

looking very good!

[popo8]

Wow... great coverage of ur build. Nicely documented. What do u plan on doing for tuning.

LTXtech.com is my DRUG!

[hokeplaya05]

thanks guys! i plan on getting it dyno tuned at a local shop that does a lot of gm/lsx tuning. i still want to talk with them some more to make sure they know what they're doing around an ltx though, but they said they've done a couple so im hoping they are good. so we'll see

[Featherburner]

thanks guys! i plan on getting it dyno tuned at a local shop that does a lot of gm/lsx tuning. i still want to talk with them some more to make sure they know what they're doing around an ltx though, but they said they've done a couple so im hoping they are good. so we'll see
What shop?

[hokeplaya05]

granite state dyno and tune

[hokeplaya05]

small update....got my viking rear coilovers in the other day with the UMI kit. not sure when i will be installing them, but hope to get back to work on the car this weekend, if it doesnt rain

[biggriff]

lookin good

[hokeplaya05]

thanks!

got a set of canton VC's on monday, so i will be putting them on this weekend and attempt to start hooking the engine harness back up and who knows maybe get crazy and get the exhaust installed as well.

man i need some motivation to finish this thing up lol:banghead:

[hokeplaya05]

spent all day saturday working on the car, i cleaned up, removed A/C wires/connectors, re-loomed and reinstalled the engine harness. also got the cantons installed along with the alt and belt. i will be getting fluids tomorrow, and also some caps to cap off most of the water pump since i removed the unused hoses that went to a/c and the oil cooler. so providing that i can get all the caps i need, i can fill the block with coolant and top off the oil. i still need to bleed the clutch and brakes and install the exhaust, and i also have a set of stainless brake lines coming along with a 160 degree t-stat and a ls1 driveshaft i got off a member here. so hopefully in the next two weeks i will be able to start it!

here are some pics i took this weekend
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/2014-04-19_18-31-37_695_zpsf3kihcmj.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/2014-04-19_18-31-37_695_zpsf3kihcmj.jpg.html)
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/2014-04-19_18-31-13_465_zpskzyuutq7.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/2014-04-19_18-31-13_465_zpskzyuutq7.jpg.html)

and one more thing, my steering shaft is about an inch to short on the steering shaft....i think it is because of the BMR k-member. anyone have this issue after installing a BMR k-memeber and how to fix this? i sent BMR an email and havent heard anything back yet.
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/2013-10-03_18-28-55_297_zps48303f3f.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/2013-10-03_18-28-55_297_zps48303f3f.jpg.html)

[hokeplaya05]

got my stainless brake hoses and thermostat in yesterday and the ls1 driveshaft in today, so friday i will be installing those and install the exhaust and bleed the clutch and breaks. havent gotten fluids yet, maybe tomorrow

[JCzNova]

Nice progress man. Don't know anyone who has had the K-member issue

[hokeplaya05]

thanks man! yea BMR says it happens a couple times a year to 4th gen cars and they usually have people send the steering shaft to them and they lengthen it for them no charge, so i will look at it tomorrow and if cant get it to work, i will send it to them to fix. kinda sucks though since i cant really move the car around much since i cant steer it...

[hokeplaya05]

got my steering shaft installed finally, never heard back from BMR so i decided to order the rag joint eliminator kit from unbalanced engineering and that seemed to do the trick, guess it was a combo of the k-member and a sloppy rag joint

[hokeplaya05]

got my PCM back from PCM for less, needed to get it tuned and figured i could go that route for now until i can throw it on a dyno for a tune, or possibly tune it myself, havent decided yet. working on the car when i have time....getting closer!

[blkchevyz]

i would tune it yourself. just start reading up on it, make small changes and log. takes time but nice to be able to make changes later if you need to.
just get a wideband o2.


let me know how the stainless lines do, i'm going to replace mine since they have been dry for a few years and was thinking about upgrading.

[hokeplaya05]

yea, i am kinda leaning toward doing it myself. i just installed new o2 sensors on it, but i highly doubt they are wideband, will have to look into it. definately will have to do a lot of research on the self tuning, since i have no experience with tuning at all, but it would be cool to get good at it. but for the time being, the PCM for less tune shoud suffice

i got the russell kit and have only looked at it, but im not sure the kit will work. gotta figure that out, hopefully tonight

[hokeplaya05]

long overdue update... i have been working on the car a lot more lateley, trying to get it running and on the road by sept 1st because i am sick of looking at it in my barn and want to drive it lol. i have the exhaust bolted in for the final time (had to test fit and have the cutout welded into the catback) and put in the BMR adj rear lower control arms. i have pulled out the rear swaybar, shocks and springs and tonight will install the coilovers and new stainless braided barke lines and after changing the rear diff fluid, i can install the strano rear sway to match the front that is already installed and that will finish off the rear suspension. i have a new walbro 255 fuel pump and new fuel filter to install, going to do the fuel trap door mod for the pump and drain the 89 octane fuel that is in the tank now while i am at it since i need 93. that is all the big stuff that i need to get done along with some small wiring and stuff it should be good to start.

along with that stuff, i have also done some asthetic stuff as well. i installed the ss spoiler that i plasti dipped untill i can get the whole car painted and also got my new Weld RTS wheels in on monday. they are 18x10.5 with nitto nt-05 295/35/18s for all four corners. here are some pics of the wheels and spoiler.
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/IMG_20140818_182428_zpsenjlt7pu.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/IMG_20140818_182428_zpsenjlt7pu.jpg.html)
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/IMG_20140818_183337_zpskbacznzp.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/IMG_20140818_183337_zpskbacznzp.jpg.html)
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/20140818_183554_zpsv8spiti6.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/20140818_183554_zpsv8spiti6.jpg.html)
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/20140818_183726_zpsp3p0ccj2.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/20140818_183726_zpsp3p0ccj2.jpg.html)
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/20140818_183819_zpsyoej84xp.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/20140818_183819_zpsyoej84xp.jpg.html)

hopefully more updates to come in the next week or so!

[englundjd]

just a word of advise... your concrete blocks are laying sideways... there much stronger laying with the holes vertical instead of horizontal

[hokeplaya05]

Thanks for the advise! It was only temporary, but I will remember that for next time

[hokeplaya05]

so rear suspension is done! although in process of instalin the stainless braided lines, i bitched up the hardlines so now i need to replace those. did the trap door mod over the weekend and pulled out the sending unit to put the walbro 255 in. in process of putting it back together now, but need an adhesive that is gas resistant to seal the white bucket the pump sits in. anybody have any suggestions?? also the tank has less than 1/4 tank of 87 in it, so i am just going to put in 93 since i dont feel like siphoning that small amount of gas out. is that ok to do?? so once i figure out the adhesive thing, i can put it all back together and getting very close to start up!

here are some pics of the trap door mod:
marked and cut initially as a rectangle, but found it really tough to get to the line connections, so i cut out the L-shape and that made it much easier to access the lines.
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/20140920_142423_zpsxtsrvo36.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/20140920_142423_zpsxtsrvo36.jpg.html)
a little liquid courage lol
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/20140920_143540_zpspoxwz9rs.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/20140920_143540_zpspoxwz9rs.jpg.html)
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/20140920_151258_zpsa83fy47m.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/20140920_151258_zpsa83fy47m.jpg.html)
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/20140920_155016_zps6kqvawpe.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/20140920_155016_zps6kqvawpe.jpg.html)

i will get some more pics of the progress tonight

[hokeplaya05]

trap door mod finished up. used an .025 sheet of aluminum and #10 sheet metal screws
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/20140926_192704_zpsjoldsp2m.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/20140926_192704_zpsjoldsp2m.jpg.html)
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/20140926_194821_zpsiufidjdk.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/20140926_194821_zpsiufidjdk.jpg.html)

working on small stuff now, wiring up the cutout, need to grease the ball joints and tierod ends, final torque all the new suspension parts with the suspension loaded, check and top off fluids, put some 93 octane in it and the brake lines. then it will be fire up time!

[popo8]

very nice... first person that realized a trap door would save so much time was a genius!

[hokeplaya05]

you can say that again! lol was a lot easier than i expected, worst thing was finding glue for the white fuel pump bucket thing that was gas resistant. was also a bit nerveracking using the cut off wheel over the tank with sparks flying, but no explosions to report!

[sleepy_z]

The Car is looking good. I had the same feeling when cutting above the fuel tank. Had my friend stand by with a fire extinguisher.

[hokeplaya05]

thanks man! looks like i will be doing the brakelines myself, gonna order the lines tonight and get them bent up, then bring them to a local shop to have them flared and instal the fittings. will be the last major thing to do

[hokeplaya05]

ended up bending up my own brake lines, bought some stainless coiled line and bent it up myself last night, then brought it to my mechanic today to do the double flare since i dont have the tool to do it myself. installed the lines tonight and went to bleed the brakes and snapped the bleeder valve, so now i will have to fix that tomorrow and get the brakes bled and then it is start time!

[hokeplaya05]

ok so got the brakelines installed and bled last night and everything else was done so i tried to start the car for the first time. needless to say i couldnt get it to start, it would crank and crank, then backfire through the intake and make a grinding noise when it backfires, which tells me that it is out of time, not really sure what the grinding noise it htough. i am going to check the plug wire routing tonight (which i am 95% sure it is right) to make double sure it is right and take a look at the starter while i am under there. but i am thinking that when i put the opti in, i might have put it in 180 degrees out. is there any way to check this without tearing apart the front of the motor?

[hokeplaya05]

started the car for the first time saturday! chased down the problem and found i had no spark, so i pulled the opti off and found some moisture and corrosion inside so i bought an MSD vented opti and a delco coil (had an MSD coil on it before that the PO put on) and put them in. hit the key and it fired right up! wouldnt stay running unless i held the gas (new TB idle stop hasnt been adjusted), but i was able to drive it out under its own power into the driveway. didnt have time to mess with it too much saturday, do going to mess with the idle screw and get the motor broken in tonight. i snapped some pictures, pardon the dust since this is the first time it has been out of the barn in 2 years and i havent gotten a chance to clean it or even put the hood on. going to lower it another half inch or so as well, enjoy!

http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/20141108_152755_zpssx1ysy7n.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/20141108_152755_zpssx1ysy7n.jpg.html)
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/20141108_152730_zps3lfyhoit.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/20141108_152730_zps3lfyhoit.jpg.html)
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/20141108_152706_zpsptvx2dop.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/20141108_152706_zpsptvx2dop.jpg.html)
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/IMG_20141108_153008_zpsv6hfceit.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/IMG_20141108_153008_zpsv6hfceit.jpg.html)
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/20141108_152641_zpspshc3srq.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/20141108_152641_zpspshc3srq.jpg.html)
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/20141108_152820_zpsri4elx0k.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/20141108_152820_zpsri4elx0k.jpg.html)

[SSlowBoat]

Looks good man, but don't trust that msd opti as far as you can throw it. I love that blue with the welds

[popo8]

Looks great man.

[hokeplaya05]

thanks guys! tubby- have you had issues with the MSD unit? i was depating whether to go with a delco unit or the MSD. i didnt hear anything bad about the MSD when i was comparing the two, plus my car didnt have any of the vent tubing and i saw that the MSD unit came with the tubing i needed. i got the idle figured out, i guess i forgot to plug the hole on the front of the intake under the TB and that is what was causing my idle problems. so now the car runs and idles perfectly, gonna break it in tonight when i get out of work

[SSlowBoat]

thanks guys! tubby- have you had issues with the MSD unit? i was depating whether to go with a delco unit or the MSD. i didnt hear anything bad about the MSD when i was comparing the two, plus my car didnt have any of the vent tubing and i saw that the MSD unit came with the tubing i needed. i got the idle figured out, i guess i forgot to plug the hole on the front of the intake under the TB and that is what was causing my idle problems. so now the car runs and idles perfectly, gonna break it in tonight when i get out of work
Yes, tons of issues, to the point that after 3 rebuilds on it in 4 months from them I sold it to someone for the cost of shipping and bought an unvented delco, no issues since from what the new owner said. Remember, stock unvented optis still went 100k before failing, my msd failed 3 times after 10 minutes of running.

[hokeplaya05]

thanks for the info, i will keep an eye on it

[hokeplaya05]

motor is all broken in, took it for a short drive up and down my road and all is good. going to get it to an alignment on friday, then it should be good to go!! so excited to drive this thing!

[hokeplaya05]

got the alignment friday and drove it all weekend. car runs good and handles like it is on rails. still have to do some minor adjusting to the coilovers to get the ride perfect and also lower it a bit more. it is really fun on the street, not really beating on it yet though. i am hoping to be able to drive it some more before it snows and i put it away for the winter, but so happy it is running and driving! snapped a picture while i was out cruising sat night, i plan on removing the pin stripe and the door moldings toohttp://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/IMG_20141115_183649_zpsi4mylsuq.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/IMG_20141115_183649_zpsi4mylsuq.jpg.html)

[hokeplaya05]

drove the car for the last time today and was racing the snow on my way home and lost, car is now stowed away in the barn for the winter, will be throwing the stock wheels/tires on for the winter storage. snapped a pic on my way home after it had started snowing
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/IMG_20141126_105553_zpsfxiqgugp.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/IMG_20141126_105553_zpsfxiqgugp.jpg.html)

[Not Dave]

I just read this thread from #1 to now. Great build! As far as the ride it looks awesome the way it sits. Funny how when I got to post #40 it shows the pic in the snow - that's the one I voted for car of the month yesterday. Glad I did as now I know the story behind your car and all the hard work. I'm new to the forum so getting to read a lot.

I'd like to do similar suspension work to my car though looking at the standard SLP springs and shocks or going Strano then getting either 17's or 18's all around.

Your car looks good in blue. Too bad you put it away for the winter. I drove mine yesterday and today (it's sunny here in TX).

Thanks for the pics of the fuel pump access as that's something I'll eventually do to.

[hokeplaya05]

thanks for the kind words man and the photo vote, means a lot! i have actually had the chance to drive the car a bunch after that snow melted (we are having weird weather here in the north east) about a couple times a week up until the latest cold snap we just got. the car doesnt like to start in the cold temps which i believe has to do with not having any EGR equipment anymore. so unless we get anymore weird weather i think it will be done now which is proabaly good because i am planning on tearing the interior apart to fix all of the wiring gremlins courtesy of the PO and do an interior color swap (i have most of the panels to do this).

[Not Dave]

Sounds great.

Thankfully my used car was unmodified inside except for a Pioneer head unit and subsequent butcher of the front door speakers. One speaker was stock while the other was a Sony. I was easily able to replace all of that and rewire them the correct way (wires through the rubber line between chassis and door).

Happy driving!

[hokeplaya05]

small update...got my new drivers seat in the other day. it is the corbeau forza seat with f-body seat bracket w/dual locking sliders. i am not sure if i want to pull by back seats yet, so i figured i would wait to get a passenger seat to match. also have a sparco steering wheel on its way, just need to get the hub adapter for it. almost have all the interior stuff to swap over to ebony, still looking for door panels, a-pillar trim and a center console, so if anyone has any of those items let me know! hoping the weather warms up here soon so i can get started on the interior work i have planned...not so fun working when it is ~10 degrees out during the day. also decided to get my PCM retuned by solomon since i wasnt really happy with the tune from PCMforless. the car wouldnt start if it was under 35 degrees out and it was running really rich among other things so since i have heard very good reviews from people that have tunes from solomon i will give him a chance. i will eventually learn how to tune myself, but for now this will do.

here is the seat
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/20150217_191901_zpsufcybjjk.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/20150217_191901_zpsufcybjjk.jpg.html)

[hokeplaya05]

started my interior swap over the weekend...going from gray to ebony. also planning on upgrading all the speakers and the head unit. also have to wire in the speakers into the hatch area since the car originally didnt have those. its funny the car has an ebony dash and a-pillars, black center console, and the reast of the plastics are light gray, so figured since i like the bony color better, i would swap it all out. also tried put my corbeau in, but they sent me the passenger side bracket by accident, should have the drivers bracket in on friday and will have to send the pass back (no cost to me). also have a f-body sub box (goes in t-top compartment) with a 10in Kicker CVR10 sub coming in this week, so have to get an amp and wires and get that installed as well. should be a busy next couple weeks getting the interior all buttoned up and finished.

http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/20150313_154107_zpsdh3kdn56.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/20150313_154107_zpsdh3kdn56.jpg.html)
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/20150313_154110_zpscw08lphn.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/20150313_154110_zpscw08lphn.jpg.html)

[hokeplaya05]

just about finished the interior swap and got the sparco wheel installed. also, re-wired the speakers and wired up the speakers in the hatch trim panels as well. it is cool having 6 speakers in the car instead of the one that was working up until now lol. also put in a new pioneer head unit with aux so i can play music off my ipod or phone. i am having trouble getting the sub to work, going to go through the wiring as the amp seems to be in "protect mode" when on so not sure what could be causing that. i know the sub itself works cause i have it hooked up in my truck for now and it sounds awesome. also looking for a place to mount the amp out of sight from the outside of the car.

i picked up an AEM uego wideband guage and an AEM fuel/oil pressure guage with a pillar pod the other day as well. got the pod attached to a-pillar last night, going to get the fuel pressure guage hooked up this weekend and may try to bring the y-pipe somewhere to get the o2 bung welded in for the wideband so i can get that hooked up.

also need to figure out why the reverse lights arent working so i can get the car inspected and i can start driving it again if my road dries up (i live down a 2 mile dirt road that was a mud pit a few weeks ago from snow melt and is almost dried out)

[hokeplaya05]

welp, guess i should update this thread a bit. as many of you know, i aquired a turbo kit for my car over the weekend which kinda took me by surprise and is going to change a few thing about my plan for the car. i was planning on going with boost at somepoint, but with a d1sc procharger not a turbo. i also wasnt planning on aquiring anything for a year or two so i could get all the supporting parts together and installed.

so now that it has been sped up a bit, i am trying to get a new plan together. i am still going to go with an s60 rear with 4.10's and either a locker or limited slip diff. i will keeping it a manual, so will be going through the t56 and upgrading things as well as going with a new clutch/flywheel. the motor currently has a blower cam in it, so i will swap in a cam speced for the turbo, and probably have the heads worked a bit more. probably go to lloyd for both of those. the only other thing is the ignition system, i will have to do some research here as i would prefer to keep the opti over converting to 24x just from a cost standpoint, but most everyone with a boosted lt has 24x swapped. for me, the benefit would be tuning, since i cannot get my car dynotuned as noone in my area will touch my car so having the newer ls type ignition would open up lots more tuning capabilities locally.

if anyone wants to chime in on anything please do, this is all happening so suddenly lol but i am wicked excited for this and cant wait to get it all done.

[hokeplaya05]

teaser shot lol got all the turbo stuff in today, it kills me to not be able to put the kit on asap but i need to make sure the rest of the car/driveline is up to the task.

http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/IMG_20150624_190234_zpssqtfr6t1.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/IMG_20150624_190234_zpssqtfr6t1.jpg.html)

[popo8]

Orrrr... put it on amd let the additional power "SHOW U" what needs upgraded... lol

LTXtech.com is my Drug...

[hokeplaya05]

haha dont tempt me!

on a side note, my waterpump has decided it would start weeping all over my opti causing the car to run like it is misfiring when warmed up (been going on for a month now), so i am assuming a seal has started to go so i have a new acdelco water pump coming in today and i will get it swapped out this weekend. also, my headliner right above the drivers seat has decided to sag really bad so basically the headliner rests on my head while i drive which is really annoying. not sure if i should try to fix it or just look for a new one. anybody dealt with this before?

[gmpowered]

My headliner fabric sagged in a few spots. I used 3m headliner spray I did it in the car, On the trouble spots. YouTube has some videos of completely restoring a headliner taking it out peeling the old glue off and re gluing.

[hokeplaya05]

thanks for the tip, i will have to check it out on youtube

[KLaBZ28]

looking good man. where did you get the turbo kit?

[hokeplaya05]

i won the raffle that fastbird did for the complete turbo kit off his t/a

[hokeplaya05]

got the new waterpump in this weekend and did the weep hole mod as well. everything went pretty well, picked up the fitting at the local hardware store, brass 1/8in pipe thread on one end and 1/4in hose barb on the other with 3ft of 1/4in clear hose. managed not to get any shavings into the pump too, if you do this, make sure to coat your drill bit/tap with grease
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/20150626_162042_zpsu9hgdews.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/20150626_162042_zpsu9hgdews.jpg.html)

fitting installed with some thread sealer for good measure
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/20150626_174426_zps7ufdnocf.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/20150626_174426_zps7ufdnocf.jpg.html)

new pump installed and hose routed down to the k-member, secured it with zipties and cut to length after i took this pic
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/20150627_150647_zpsy5r0syoq.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/20150627_150647_zpsy5r0syoq.jpg.html)

also decided to do the tb bypass mod while i was in there, not sure why i havent done this sooner, it was super easy
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/20150627_150636_zpsaeiobhrp.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/20150627_150636_zpsaeiobhrp.jpg.html)

havent been able to drive the car yet to see how it does, started raining as i finished bleeding the coolant system. i think it is supposed to be nice tomorrow, so i will probably drive it to work

[hokeplaya05]

so the stumbling problem is still there.... but i dont have coolant puddles following me around wherever i park anymore so i guess it was worth it. next is to check the O2 sensors and MAF. O2's are basically brand new with around 600mi on them so i doubt thats what is causing the stumble. MAF was descreened by a PO and i wonder if that has something to do with it.


anyways, tried my hand at fixing the headliner and it didnt really go so well. i pulled it out of the car and the padding was all junk under the fabric so i scraped it off and tried to glue the fabric back down and just made a mess of it. so needless to say i am in the market for a new headliner. i found a company on ebay that has replacement headliners that use abs plastic as the backing material and has the padding/fabric material on that like factory and is made in the USA so i will probably try that out. i emailed the guy and asked a few questions which he answered promtly and even asked me to take pics of it installed in my car if i do buy it as he had no installed pics.

[SSlowBoat]

so the stumbling problem is still there.... but i dont have coolant puddles following me around wherever i park anymore so i guess it was worth it. next is to check the O2 sensors and MAF. O2's are basically brand new with around 600mi on them so i doubt thats what is causing the stumble. MAF was descreened by a PO and i wonder if that has something to do with it.


anyways, tried my hand at fixing the headliner and it didnt really go so well. i pulled it out of the car and the padding was all junk under the fabric so i scraped it off and tried to glue the fabric back down and just made a mess of it. so needless to say i am in the market for a new headliner. i found a company on ebay that has replacement headliners that use abs plastic as the backing material and has the padding/fabric material on that like factory and is made in the USA so i will probably try that out. i emailed the guy and asked a few questions which he answered promtly and even asked me to take pics of it installed in my car if i do buy it as he had no installed pics.
Descreened will cause issues, especially if it's not tuned for it. That would be the first thing I would change

[hokeplaya05]

hmmm thats what i was thinking originally so i cleaned it and nothing changed and i didnt think it would have that big of an effect. i will look for an unmolested used one then and see if that helps

[shownomercy]

Do not do 4.10s if you are serious about having a turbo car.

Cam it to the shift point you want, use calculator to find trap speed based on tire height and shift, then evaluate gears.

A S60 rear, go 3.54, you will thank me later.

[hokeplaya05]

what if i dont care about trap speed? car will very rarely if ever see the strip, only time is maybe if at a car show at the local dragway they have a test n tune thing just to see what it runs. just looking for a good gear for the street. s60 for sure though

[SJx408]

Maybe 4.10's will be in and out of boost so fast that you won't see full benefit from el turbo I suppose.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[shownomercy]

You can gear it as you see fit, but that steep of a gear and you will regret it.

3.73s are what I have and wish I went 3.54s. Transient response will be much better with the lower numerical gears.

If you want a tire fryer, and not see boost till third gear, 4.10s are for you!

[hokeplaya05]

okay i see what you are saying, definately dont want 4.10's, what about 3.42's? that is what is in the car now although in the stock 10 bolt which will definitely not be staying for much longer. honestly surprised i havent blown it yet knock on wood lol hoping to make it last until the winter which is when i plan on swapping in a s60. 4.10's seem to be a good gear for bolt on 6 speed cars, which is what i would like to have in the car now lol, but it doesnt seem worth it to swap gears in the 10 bolt now only to pull it this winter.

appretiate the suggestions snm!

[hokeplaya05]

so i seemed to have fixed the "miss" i was getting at part throttle when the car was warm. i ordered a delco MAF with the screen obviously and put it in the car and have been driving it for the past couple days without issues. as sslowboat had said it must have been because the MAF that came on the car was descreened by the PO and i never had it tuned for it. i also replaced the header gaskets that came with the pacesetters with a set of percy's multilayer gaskets as the pacesetters were cracked and leaking already after less than 700 miles. what a PITA that was, although i cant imagine replacing the headers with the motor in the car after doing this.

[hokeplaya05]

so the studdering/miss is back.....25%-50% throttle it stumbles, was noticing it most in 4th and 5th gear but it would happen in 3rd and 2nd. i took a crappy video that i am trying to upload. it has a screened MAF, new water pump, newer vented msd opti, i will check the plug wires tomorrow to make sure none of them are damaged. could my opti be bad already? i am at a loss and it is really annoying to drive when it is happening

also, i also need to hook my wideband gauge up so i can use it to datalog and send the files to solomon for some fine tuning on the tune. maybe i will try that tomorrow.

[popo8]

Well I always start with checking the same things.

First, lets make sure u have good fuel pressure... key on... idle... driving... wot... and when it is stumbling.

Once we have that we can move on with a bit of direction.

Also, does it have any SES?

FINALLY, I hate to say it, because I always want problems to be anything but the opti... but there have been lots of issues with MSD as well as other optis.

Ive had many lt1 cars... ive run many optis... accell (no issues, but did not have that car long). MSD biller, high rpm stumble. Dynaspark, many many many issues.

Currently both of my LTX cars are running AC DELCO Optis from American-powerhouse.

It is the ONLY choice for me, for optis. My camaro has never run better since she got the delco.

LTXtech.com IS my drug...

[hokeplaya05]

I bit the bullet and ordered a delco opti from AP, should be here soon. the stumbling started happening after I went through a car wash so I think that narrows it down pretty good....forgot to mention that part lol guess that should teach me to only hand wash it from now on. this will be the third time I've pulled the water pump and the second opti replacement since the spring...

also having trouble getting my wideband to show up consistently in the logs, I have been back and forth with Solomon troubleshooting the issue, but I am at a loss. I have a good ground (bolt on the firewall) and a good soldered connection to the AC wire to the PCM. going to check the AC wire from the soldered connection to the PCM connector to make sure it is okay.

[hokeplaya05]

so finally got the delco opti installed the other day and car is running better than it ever has. crisp throttle response, no more studdering and the chugging/vibration in 6th gear is gone. before 6th gear was useless until I was going at least 70mph because of the vibration and it would chug and bog down, but now I can cruise in 6th going 55 and without issue! hello better gas mileage! anyways I am a firm believer of the delco opti's now although still not taking it to car washes just to be safe. also think I fixed the WB issue, going to take some logs today to verify that I did. hoping it is smooth sailing until the car goes away for the winter and I can focus on getting the LQ4/4l80e swapped into my truck before the snow flies.

[popo8]

so finally got the delco opti installed the other day and car is running better than it ever has. crisp throttle response, no more studdering and the chugging/vibration in 6th gear is gone. before 6th gear was useless until I was going at least 70mph because of the vibration and it would chug and bog down, but now I can cruise in 6th going 55 and without issue! hello better gas mileage! anyways I am a firm believer of the delco opti's now although still not taking it to car washes just to be safe. also think I fixed the WB issue, going to take some logs today to verify that I did. hoping it is smooth sailing until the car goes away for the winter and I can focus on getting the LQ4/4l80e swapped into my truck before the snow flies.
I noticed the same thing when my camaro got its delco.

LTXtech.com IS my drug...

[hokeplaya05]

ive had a love-hate relationship with this car and right now it is love lol hopefully it will stay that way from here on out. I got so excited for my new-found 6th gear awesomeness that I got a speeding ticket on my way home from work last night....didn't realize how fast I was going and next thing I know im doing almost 80 right by a cop using a laser, clocked me at 76 in a 55. ya live and ya learn I guess just gotta pay more attention

[popo8]

Well that sucks... but glad its on point for u.

LTXtech.com IS my drug...

[beaver50]

Great build thread and great build!!!!!I hope my build comes as nice.

[hokeplaya05]

thanks man! it certainly has come a long way, and has a long way to go until I am satisfied with it.

[hokeplaya05]

not much to update on this, but picked up a new hood for the car over the weekend. guy was selling a 97 z28 roller on CL and it had this hood on it. I offered a swap with cash on top and he said okay. drove 2 hours, swapped hoods in 10 minutes and took it home. paid $200 on top of my hood so I think it was a smoking deal. unfortunately it isn't a factory ss hood, but looks exactly the same so I am thinking it is an older aftermarket version that isn't made anymore. it had stripes and hood pins which I took off yesterday, along with some paint under the stripes. whoever painted the hood didn't do a very good job so it looks like I will have to have it re painted. anyways, here are some pics I took, I plan on filling in the hood pin holes before I get it painted.

http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/20160131_154254_zpslf7o1mrq.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/20160131_154254_zpslf7o1mrq.jpg.html)
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/20160131_165038_zps59kecqse.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/20160131_165038_zps59kecqse.jpg.html)
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/20160131_165052_zpstxdwi3mf.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/20160131_165052_zpstxdwi3mf.jpg.html)
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/20160131_165104_zps1fdd8c93.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/20160131_165104_zps1fdd8c93.jpg.html)
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/20160131_165625_zpsgdxli3h9.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/20160131_165625_zpsgdxli3h9.jpg.html)
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/20160131_165642_zpsqkuv02ck.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/20160131_165642_zpsqkuv02ck.jpg.html)

[SJx408]

Looks good man!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[hokeplaya05]

got to work on the car this weekend since it was so nice out. decided to try my hand at getting my 6le front bumper installed since it has been sitting in my attic for 2 years. I knew from the start it wasn't going to fit out of the box and it certainly didn't although wasn't that bad. I had to drill all the mounting holes and do some work to the turn signal buckets to get the markers to fit. nothing the dremmel couldn't take care of. while I had the bumper off I decided to test fit the intercooler and modified crash bar from fastbird. seems to fit nicely although I wasn't a big fan of the lower mounting brackets so I will probably do something different there. I will also be getting a new intercooler as this one is fairly beat up. the bumper is all bolted up for good, next will be figuring out how to mount the foglights I got from a 98+ car. I will also be cutting out the center section when I put the intercooler on for more airflow. anyways here are some pics

http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/20160227_170750_zpsq2hq5smn.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/20160227_170750_zpsq2hq5smn.jpg.html)
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/20160228_163654_zpsvvoxrinw.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/20160228_163654_zpsvvoxrinw.jpg.html)
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/20160228_163701_zpsuc2hj560.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/20160228_163701_zpsuc2hj560.jpg.html)
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/20160228_163714_zpsss5hqz4t.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/20160228_163714_zpsss5hqz4t.jpg.html)

and here it is completely bolted up, sorry for the crappy lighting I finished it up after dark last night
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/20160228_191533_zpsxzjdray9.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/20160228_191533_zpsxzjdray9.jpg.html)
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/20160228_191557_zpsncel52b1.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/20160228_191557_zpsncel52b1.jpg.html)
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/20160228_191546_zpsdqhpxt6w.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/20160228_191546_zpsdqhpxt6w.jpg.html)

[SJx408]

Looks good! Only thing is that bumper cover was still designed to work with 93-97 lights. I think I've only seen one or two cars that had 98-02 lights on the stock bumper cover.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[popo8]

I love those bumper skins. Not a fan of the catfish eyes... so it was an awesome design for what i would be looking for.

LTXtech.com IS my drug...
OWNER/ADMIN

[Vicious95Z28]

I do dig those bumper covers. I could almost talk myself into one.

Sent from my SM-S975L using Tapatalk

[hokeplaya05]

thanks guys! I think it is the best of both worlds, I'm not a fan of the 98-02 headlights, but I like the grill opening and foglight provisions better than the 93-97 so to me its perfect. plus this bumper has a bigger lip like the Dick Harrell cars have. I am going to try to make brackets so I can use the 98-02 foglights work as well (already have a set). I also saw a thread on the other site recently that the foglights from a c5 vette are a direct swap for the fbody ones but have a different bulb with more options for HID's so I may upgrade to that as well.

[hokeplaya05]

got a new clutch and flywheel ordered over the weekend through Josh at BDS racing, it is a McLeod Street Twin with a light weight flywheel. with that, I shouldn't need to ever get a new clutch as it is completely rebuildable by McLeod and it should be good for 800+ lb-ft so no need to upgrade later on. I also pulled the trigger on a Spintech 2OTL catback last week which supposedly came in today, so car will be boing up on jack stands this week to get both of those things installed plus some new u-joints as well. going to order a matching Corbeau Forza fixed back seat for the passenger side this week and will be doing the rear seat delete when that comes in. still need to get the hood fixed and then it will be ready for the summer!

[hokeplaya05]

so the street twin is going to take 4-6 weeks to ship because they have to build it, so waiting on that. in the meantime, I took today off to do some work on the car. I was able to pull the rear seats and passenger seat out to make way for the corbeau that I ordered a couple days ago. I also got my plate mounted on a SLP bracket and got the 98-02 fog lights installed. I had to make some custom brackets to make the fog lights work but it came out pretty sweet. also happy that they hooked right up to the factory lt1 fog light connectors. here are some pics, also snapped a few pics of the bumper cover before I started in the daylight, got rushed at the end as it started to down pour just as I was finishing up the drivers side fog light

http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/20160401_102404_zpsyopi6j7g.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/20160401_102404_zpsyopi6j7g.jpg.html)
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/20160401_102339_zpsrdu31d7s.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/20160401_102339_zpsrdu31d7s.jpg.html)
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/20160401_102350_zpsbsklfmzs.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/20160401_102350_zpsbsklfmzs.jpg.html)
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/20160401_102419_zpsaijbu2df.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/20160401_102419_zpsaijbu2df.jpg.html)
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/20160401_162250_zpsfv8gqrjf.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/20160401_162250_zpsfv8gqrjf.jpg.html)
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/20160401_162527_zpsb4rmotip.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/20160401_162527_zpsb4rmotip.jpg.html)

[hokeplaya05]

thrashed on the car last week to get it ready for a big car show on sunday. got the spintech 2otl catback installed although still need to have the tips welded on, plasti dipped the hood to hide all the spots where the paint came off (temporary), got the Welds back on and put the Corbeau installed in the passenger seat. the show was Broke East Meet in Seekonk MA which was about a 2 hour drive one way and the car did great! unfortunately didn't get a chance to take any pics while at the show as there was too much going on, but did snap some of the progress last week.

old crusty magnaflow next to the new spintech, I cut the cutout out of the magnaflow and had it tig welded to the new spintech, going to do the same for the tips
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/20160415_172529_zpsqe2qcogh.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/20160415_172529_zpsqe2qcogh.jpg.html)
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/20160415_172549_zps7kdyunon.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/20160415_172549_zps7kdyunon.jpg.html)
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/20160425_183729_zpsm3nte07i.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/20160425_183729_zpsm3nte07i.jpg.html)
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/20160425_183743_zpssczklcej.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/20160425_183743_zpssczklcej.jpg.html)

Welds on and hood plasti dipped and mounted
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/20160425_192223_zpscpvmvrji.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/20160425_192223_zpscpvmvrji.jpg.html)http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/20160425_192235_zpsxe8ekhyt.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/20160425_192235_zpsxe8ekhyt.jpg.html)
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/20160425_192304_zpsknlm8slv.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/20160425_192304_zpsknlm8slv.jpg.html)

washing my car the night before the show next to my buddies '13 WRX that has full bolt ons and suspension
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/20160423_182034_zpsgdutqs42.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/20160423_182034_zpsgdutqs42.jpg.html)
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/20160423_182046_zps8e5qk8yi.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/20160423_182046_zps8e5qk8yi.jpg.html)
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/20160423_182057_zps5bztr8zp.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/20160423_182057_zps5bztr8zp.jpg.html)
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/20160423_190643_zpszokdkzg7.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/20160423_190643_zpszokdkzg7.jpg.html)

[SJx408]

Nice progress man! Front end looks great and we need an exhaust clip!


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[hokeplaya05]

thanks! I will try to break the go pro out this weekend and get some clips. I love the new exhaust, it has a much different tone than the magnaflow and sounds way better at idle. it does drone a bit on the highway, but that may be because it is kinda dumped under the body, hoping putting the tips on will help that although I don't really care to be honest lol

also, the street twin and aluminum flywheel came in yesterday! not sure when I will be able to put it in but shooting for the next week or so
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/20160426_174940_zpss555xgoc.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/20160426_174940_zpss555xgoc.jpg.html)

[hokeplaya05]

never got an exhaust clip, but will soon. thought I would throw this up here, the organizer of the Broke East Meet snapped a pic of me rolling into the show! too bad he didn't get my crew all in one shot (they were in front of me)
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/IMG_20160502_091433_zpsgleglbcf.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/IMG_20160502_091433_zpsgleglbcf.jpg.html)

[hokeplaya05]

small update, finally got the tips welded on the 2otl last week. love how it looks! charged up the go pro last night so if it isn't raining when I get out of work I will pull it out of the garage and do a little walk around. they are staggered a bit to follow the contour of the bumper too

pics:
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/20160815_184838_zpss7b9ocgk.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/20160815_184838_zpss7b9ocgk.jpg.html)
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/20160815_184822_zps80vzuf9o.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/20160815_184822_zps80vzuf9o.jpg.html)
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r637/hokeplaya05/camaro/20160815_184802_zpsrcoysbgg.jpg (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/hokeplaya05/media/camaro/20160815_184802_zpsrcoysbgg.jpg.html)

[hokeplaya05]

exhaust clip finally!


https://youtu.be/ukjjdT47_vI

[SSlowBoat]

exhaust clip finally!


https://youtu.be/ukjjdT47_vI
Damn i love that car, nice man

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[harner]

Love the sound!

[hokeplaya05]

Thanks guys! really happy with how it came out

[SSlowBoat]

got a new clutch and flywheel ordered over the weekend through Josh at BDS racing, it is a McLeod Street Twin with a light weight flywheel. with that, I shouldn't need to ever get a new clutch as it is completely rebuildable by McLeod and it should be good for 800+ lb-ft so no need to upgrade later on. I also pulled the trigger on a Spintech 2OTL catback last week which supposedly came in today, so car will be boing up on jack stands this week to get both of those things installed plus some new u-joints as well. going to order a matching Corbeau Forza fixed back seat for the passenger side this week and will be doing the rear seat delete when that comes in. still need to get the hood fixed and then it will be ready for the summer!
Where did you find the spintech 2otl exhaust? I need one!

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[SSlowBoat]

hokeplaya05 nvm i found it on spintech's site

[hokeplaya05]

nice! only thing I didn't like about the exhaust is that it didn't come with a drivers side hanger bracket. I had to cut one off of the old magnaflow and have it welded on the spintech. not really sure what they were thinking there

[Flyinz]

Love those Weld's!

[hokeplaya05]

Thanks!

[hokeplaya05]

okay, so I am in need of some advise and opinions from you guys. I am really tired of seeing the turbo parts sitting in boxes in my attic and am itching to get everything installed. my rear end has started to have slight whine to it after 172k miles of abuse, so I am thinking I need to do something about that this winter. I am undecided on which I want to go with, either a 9 in or s60 (leaning toward s60). the other deterrent is the fact the I have a cast steel scat crank in the 383 and I am not sure how well it will hold up either. yes I know, shoulda gone forged like the rest of the rotating assembly but I was young, dumb, and too cheap when I had the motor built so this is what I have to work with. it does have all ARP hardware in the bottom end if that helps. I am planning on keeping the opti for now so tuning will have to be mail order, I am going to send Solomon an email to get his opinion on the matter but wanted to see what you guys thought first. I already have a walbro 255 in the car and plan on adding a second with 80lbers for the fuel system to support the FI. I have the street twin that I have yet to install and I think the trans will be okay in stock form for now. I would only be running 5-8lbs of boost until I can save the money to redo the 383 bottom end, go 24x for more tuning options, and upgrade the trans. bottom line is I hate seeing everything sitting in boxes and want some boost in my life, but I also don't want to jump the gun and hurt something. let me know what you guys think if I should go for it or hold off. hopefully all that makes sense lol

[SSlowBoat]

okay, so I am in need of some advise and opinions from you guys. I am really tired of seeing the turbo parts sitting in boxes in my attic and am itching to get everything installed. my rear end has started to have slight whine to it after 172k miles of abuse, so I am thinking I need to do something about that this winter. I am undecided on which I want to go with, either a 9 in or s60 (leaning toward s60). the other deterrent is the fact the I have a cast steel scat crank in the 383 and I am not sure how well it will hold up either. yes I know, shoulda gone forged like the rest of the rotating assembly but I was young, dumb, and too cheap when I had the motor built so this is what I have to work with. it does have all ARP hardware in the bottom end if that helps. I am planning on keeping the opti for now so tuning will have to be mail order, I am going to send Solomon an email to get his opinion on the matter but wanted to see what you guys thought first. I already have a walbro 255 in the car and plan on adding a second with 80lbers for the fuel system to support the FI. I have the street twin that I have yet to install and I think the trans will be okay in stock form for now. I would only be running 5-8lbs of boost until I can save the money to redo the 383 bottom end, go 24x for more tuning options, and upgrade the trans. bottom line is I hate seeing everything sitting in boxes and want some boost in my life, but I also don't want to jump the gun and hurt something. let me know what you guys think if I should go for it or hold off. hopefully all that makes sense lol
Id go for it, just not with a solomon tune. Have moe or jeff creech do the tune. Ive done some sketchy shit with really high mile lt1's and theyve survived. My opinion, if its tuned right and its low boost u should be fine.

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[hokeplaya05]

good to know, the motor has around 6k on it so I think it will be okay, only high mileage drivetrain component on it after I upgrade the rear will be the trans but that still shifts good despite the shit clutch that's in it right now lol. why do you say don't go to Solomon for the tune? the car is tuned by him right now and is pretty much on point. I have never heard of Jeff Creech but have obviously heard lot of good things about Moe so I am not apposed to giving him a try if need be

[Catmaigne]

I've had 2 Solomon tunes and didn't like either. First one was totally undriveable because he screwed up the injector data and the second was rich as hell and locked in open loop (even though I asked for closed + MAF). The timing was pretty extreme on both which is the opposite of what you'd want for a boosted car. I have taken bits and pieces from his tunes and made hybrids with others from PCM4less, bobdec, or other bins floating around. You kinda get what you pay for though.

Anyway, mail orders will always be hit or miss.

[SSlowBoat]

good to know, the motor has around 6k on it so I think it will be okay, only high mileage drivetrain component on it after I upgrade the rear will be the trans but that still shifts good despite the shit clutch that's in it right now lol. why do you say don't go to Solomon for the tune? the car is tuned by him right now and is pretty much on point. I have never heard of Jeff Creech but have obviously heard lot of good things about Moe so I am not apposed to giving him a try if need be
Ive seen solomon tunes with literally nothing changed on 383's with spray. I mean literally NOTHING. Guy was running 42lb injectors and the constant was still at stock....was not right. If you miss simple stuff like that over and over thats scary

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[hokeplaya05]

Hmmm interesting, I now wonder how the tune looks like in my car now. the AFR seems right on according to my gauge and the car runs well. the idle is a bit high (around 1k) but I think that is due to the untouched BBK 58mm throttle body that I have which I will be fixing over the winter. we went back and forth several times, sending him datalogs and he would send back a revised tune that I would load in until he was happy with it. I have all the tunes he sent me stored on my laptop at home.

[hokeplaya05]

bumping this back up.... finally starting to work on the car again now that it is nice enough out. working on cleaning up and preparing the ls1 front brake setup I got a while ago to go on the car, have new hubs, pads and rotors coming in today then just need to finish painting the spindles and calipers. then just need to throw the street twin in and it will be good for the summer.

also going to be ordering a new rear end here soon, still undecided on an s60 or 9in though. 10 bolt was starting to whine towards the end of last season so I don't want to push it and get stuck on the side of the road somewhere. blew up the 10 bolt in my truck an hour away from home a couple years ago and that tow was not cheap lol

[hokeplaya05]

been a while since I have logged on and updated this. bought my first house back in February so most of my car part funds and time have been going towards that but I should be able to start putting in work on the car again soon. got the twin disk installed last summer and have put on probably 3k miles since without issue. been pretty much daily driving the car to around and to work when the weather has been nice since the snow melted. I had brand new 295 NTo5's put on the welds a couple weeks ago and it is a whole new car. didn't get far on the ls1 front brakes last year but will hopefully get those finished up and on the car here soon. also picked up a Midwest chassis bump steer kit since my tie rods are angled up with how lowered the front is and have been fighting bump steer for years now because of it. also looking into the new over fender kit for the rear that is sold through hawks, although I've heard that there will be a steel version out soon so I may wait for that instead of having the fiberglass ones. rear is still making some noise but hasn't blown up yet so I will probably just hope it lasts the summer and put a rear under it next winter. anyways, just wanted to update and add some current pics of the car

38537
38538

[hokeplaya05]

small update, been going back and forth grabbing car/truck parts from my parents house where I kept everything and found that I had these side splitters buried under stuff and decided to throw them on last week for shit and gigs. I bought these used off ls1tech a couple years ago and forgot about them. wish I had put them on a while ago and now I think I need a front splitter to go with them. but anyways, here are some pics. also, a pic of the car in front of my new garage that I forgot to put in my previous post lol

38549
38550
38552

[SSlowBoat]

looks awesome

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[hokeplaya05]

looks awesome

thanks! I wish the passenger side wasn't so wavy, I'll have to figure out how to fix that but I am happy with them for sure. need to figure out how to get a front splitter to work with the license plate bracket I have

[hokeplaya05]

ordered some goodies yesterday from summit, finally bit the bullet and grabbed a BMR adjustable full length torque arm. been having driveline vibrations for a while now and hoping that I can fine tune the pinion angle better than the relocation cross member can do. also grabbed a MSD 6al box, because 2-step :D

[hokeplaya05]

torque arm and 6al showed up yesterday, man I love summit's shipping department! gonna try to get them installed and dialed in either tomorrow or over the weekend. cant wait to see if my car will shoot flames on the 2 step haha
38571

[Cathead]

torque arm and 6al showed up yesterday, man I love summit's shipping department! gonna try to get them installed and dialed in either tomorrow or over the weekend. cant wait to see if my car will shoot flames on the 2 step haha
38571Damn...you really did good. Summit's never brought anything in the house for me![emoji16]

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[hokeplaya05]

Damn...you really did good. Summit's never brought anything in the house for me![emoji16]

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

haha yeah, they unboxed them for me and everything!

[hokeplaya05]

got the 6al box installed over the weekend and it is wired up to a toggle switch in my center console. really fun to mess with driving around, and it shoots flames which is awesome :D

I am having an issue with it though, seems no matter what I set the 2 step function to, it only goes to 3k (currently set at 5k). I've double checked all the wiring and cant find anything. I am using the MSD jumper harness for the coil as well. if anyone has an idea of what could be the issue let me know

[hokeplaya05]

update on the 6al-2 box situation, not sure how or why but the 2-step function works fine now, flip the switch to the on position and it activates and cuts ignition at the RPM I have it set at. not sure what changed, maybe an MSD wizard broke into my garage while I was on vacation last week and fixed it ;)

got the adjustable torque arm install finished last night. thing was really fighting me, stripped bolts, then it was making contact with the trans tunnel when I was driving. so I made some adjustments and it seems to be good now. took me 3 afternoons to finally get it right. drove the car to work this morning and so far the car feels smoother now that I can dial the pinion angle more precisely, less vibration at speed. one thing I don't like is it hangs down quite a bit, I know my car is lower than most fbodies, so we shall see how it holds up.
38618

aaaaaaaand more pictures of the car I took the other day, cause why not :D
38619
38620

[hokeplaya05]

so for those that don't know, had my twin disk fail and leave me stranded a couple months ago, the center spline on the rear disk stripped out and i couldn't get the car into any gears. got it flat-bedded home, pulled the clutch and sent it back to McLeod where they rebuilt the clutch for free. finally got the car back together with the new clutch yesterday and got to drive it around a bunch today. while i had everything apart, i also decided to get a new shifter since my hurst was old and kinda sloppy, plus i lost one of the stop screws. have head a ton of good things about the MGW short shifter so i picked one up and man it is an awesome shifter. very tight and smooth, haven't really been able to rip on it since i need to break in the clutch but love it so far. another thing i did while the car was down was remove the side molding as well as the pin stripe. looks way cleaner and i wish i had done it a while ago.

snapped some pics while i was out cruising today getting break in miles on the clutch
38716
38717

[hokeplaya05]

as of two weeks ago, roads are finally too salted to drive my car anymore so it is put up for the winter.

So the time has come to finally boost this mofo. its been killing me to see fastbird's old turbo kit sitting in boxes and now that I have my own place with a garage that has room for me to work on my car I have begun the process of removing all the N/A stuff to make way for some boost. last weekend I got the full exhaust removed and pulled the rad and front bumper. looking to get the hotside mocked up tonight after work to see what I am working with and make a game plan as to what I want to do as far as the radiator is concerned. my plan as of now is to stand the stock rad up and keep the stock puller fans if possible. i know I will have to cut up the rad support a bit for this but it is kind of bitched up anyways from the PO pulling the motor through the top carelessly. I also need to figure out what i want to do for fuel, thinking home made dual 255's (already have one in the tank now with a trap door mod so should be easy) and 80lb injectors. if anyone has any suggestions on that let me know as well as the rad situation.

at the same time as all this I also have ls1 front and rear brake kits that I want to install as well as possibly modding the knuckles for a bit more angle for drifty things. I also want to look into fabbing up a dual caliper setup using the old stock lt1 rear brakes so I can put a hydro handbrake in the car. that is last on the list but would be super cool if I could pull it off. only other thing is I will be ordering the "hawks sinister rear wide body fenders" here in the next couple weeks and maybe a wrap or plasti dip job to get the car all one color until i can afford a real nice respray the factory MQB.

I will keep this updated with pics and such as I go along, feel free to critique or suggest anything that I may want to do, mainly looking for fuel system suggestions.

last time she will see daylight until shes boosted :devil:
38796

[shownomercy]

Start saving for a tune, a trans, and a rear end.

[hokeplaya05]

I hear ya, I'll be saving for the torquehead kit for next winter then get a real dyno tune with the ls computer for 2020. gonna talk to moe about a mail order tune and see what he says, not planning on running more then 8lbs this year so hoping the t56 will be okay and I'll just find another 10 bolt if this one blows up until I can pony up for an s60. this isn't my daily so if something happens, the car can stay down as long as I need it but I think everything will stay together if I don't launch it. I also think the 3.42's are helping me keep this 10 bolt together and that is a decent gear for boost too

[shownomercy]

I hear ya, I'll be saving for the torquehead kit for next winter then get a real dyno tune with the ls computer for 2020. gonna talk to moe about a mail order tune and see what he says, not planning on running more then 8lbs this year so hoping the t56 will be okay and I'll just find another 10 bolt if this one blows up until I can pony up for an s60. this isn't my daily so if something happens, the car can stay down as long as I need it but I think everything will stay together if I don't launch it. I also think the 3.42's are helping me keep this 10 bolt together and that is a decent gear for boost too

You are going to tune it twice? Once on LTX and another on LSX PCM? IMO, do it once. May take longer but its money wasted tuning an LTX pcm.

Another IMO tidbit, if you do decide on a S60, get it with 3.54s not 3.73s.

(my ten bolt lasted 4-5 sooooft launches before peg legging so be careful)

[hokeplaya05]

You are going to tune it twice? Once on LTX and another on LSX PCM? IMO, do it once. May take longer but its money wasted tuning an LTX pcm.

Another IMO tidbit, if you do decide on a S60, get it with 3.54s not 3.73s.

(my ten bolt lasted 4-5 sooooft launches before peg legging so be careful)

yeah i guess that's my plan for now lol I just don't want to drop 1500 on the torque head kit right now and i think a mail order tune will suffice for my goals for this year. i was also thinking i may try my hand at tuning after getting a base tune from moe or even try tuning it myself off the bat before converting over to the ls stuff since it is cheap to get the software to tune the obd1 stuff and i already have the cable. also, depending on what i get for tax returns i may be able to splurge on the torqhead at that time, right now i have other stuff i need that money going towards

that was my plan, get as close to a 3.42 as i can get with the s60, so 3.54 would be perfect (i hadn't looked into gearing options yet). I'm surprised my 10 bolt has lasted this long because i have not been easy on it too this point with the 295 nt05s

appreciate the input!

[Lt1Nick]

I currently have a complete D1SC kit for sale. The kit itself is amazing, only reason for selling is going a different route. Had it on my car for about a year and a half now.

[hokeplaya05]

nice, my plan when building the motor was to do a procharger, but then i got super lucky to win the raffle for this turbo kit

[hokeplaya05]

got the hotside mocked up and turbo mounted last weekend, ended up having to do some cutting on the BMR k member to make it fit right but it all clears now no problem. next up is intercooler and cold side piping to see how that all fits and then fit the radiator and see what i have for room with that and if i will have to stand it up, right now it is looking like i might not have to which would be sweet. i am off work tomorrow so will probably tackle the cold side stuff providing it isn't too cold in my garage. i want to get the whole kit mocked up and installed to see what i need to clearance or change to fit it, then i want to get the hot side ceramic coated and re-wrapped before installing everything for good.

pic i snapped after getting the turbo bolted up

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[Fastbird]

Oh I like where this is going.

[hokeplaya05]

got some time and decent temperatures this past weekend to work on the car a little. i think i have the turbo placement correct now and got all the cold side piping and intercooler mocked up and in place. definitely want to simplify the cold side piping at some point, seems like i can cut down some of the pipes and weld a couple of them together as well to reduce the number of couplers needed in the system, will have to talk to my buddy who works at a shop near my house about that. looks like the rad will work in the stock location but thinking i will need slimmer fans or flip the stock ones to pusher fans. still need to make sure the downpipe fits and see where the crossover ends up in relation to the catback that is already on the car. only other thing(s) i need for the car to be a runner (besides a tune) is to upgrade the fuel pump and injectors. probably going with 80lb injectors so i will be good when i want to turn the boost up eventually but I'm torn between doing a home made dual 255 setup like Sean had or toss a single 450 pump in there. any pros/cons to either pump setup? or if anyone has any suggestions i am all ears. hoping to get the exhaust side and fan setup figured out this week/weekend if i have time then it will all be coming off for ceramic coating or painting if i can't find someone to coat the hot side and heat wrapped.

[shownomercy]

Just run pusher fans, the pricey ones from Derale. Big aftermarket relays for them, and trigger em off PCM for hi/lo

IMO, the dual 255s may limit you if you push it hard later on, but they def will work fine with sub 800hp levels.

If you want to get crazy, I would suggest making the downpipe larger diameter, or have a cutout right under the car.

Otherwise, check out POR15 black velvet and then wrap it with the titanium DEI stuff.

[hokeplaya05]

okay cool, i will look those up

I'm not sure this car will ever see over 800 with a 6 speed, if i go that crazy I'd really be tempted to swap the motor/turbo setup into an auto car and go full race car with it. IIRC Sean was making around 740whp at 14lbs with the dual 255's and i have more cubes than he did. just wasn't sure if the big single pump would make more sense than modifying for dual 255's.

already have an electric cutout in the front part of the catback (was right after the y pipe merge) so was hoping that would be good enough when i want to rage it lol

I'll check out the por15 black velvet, I've used regular por15 a bunch on the frame of my truck so I'm familiar with it, was planning on the titanium DEI stuff too, heard good things

[Fastbird]

I second the motion on the pricey Derale units. Those and a big BeCool radiator worked on my no airflow Trans Am front end.

The twin 255's will be fine. I'm getting ready to see how far they can actually be pushed (another month or two and my Vette will be running, and I'm aiming at 1K RWHP on stock lines/twin 255's).

P.S. I was running a 383 also.

[shownomercy]

I second the motion on the pricey Derale units. Those and a big BeCool radiator worked on my no airflow Trans Am front end.

The twin 255's will be fine. I'm getting ready to see how far they can actually be pushed (another month or two and my Vette will be running, and I'm aiming at 1K RWHP on stock lines/twin 255's).

P.S. I was running a 383 also.

I am gonna say it won't happen if you are band aiding injector size with high fuel pressure.

I "think" Brian runs a base 55psi and was running out of fuel up top on his. 80# sticks and ~750rwhp thru M6 blackbirdws6

[blackbirdws6]

I am gonna say it won't happen if you are band aiding injector size with high fuel pressure.

I "think" Brian runs a base 55psi and was running out of fuel up top on his. 80# sticks and ~750rwhp thru M6 blackbirdws6

Base pressure is 42 psi like stock. Just about out of pump at 777rwhp on stock lines and rails.

[shownomercy]

Base pressure is 42 psi like stock. Just about out of pump at 777rwhp on stock lines and rails.

I was close :lol:

I would run triple 255s fastbird or, double 450s

Sorry for thread hijack OP

[hokeplaya05]

I second the motion on the pricey Derale units. Those and a big BeCool radiator worked on my no airflow Trans Am front end.

The twin 255's will be fine. I'm getting ready to see how far they can actually be pushed (another month or two and my Vette will be running, and I'm aiming at 1K RWHP on stock lines/twin 255's).

P.S. I was running a 383 also.

ohh my bad, for some reason i thought you had all this on a 355. i may take a chance on the stock rad since mine it still in pretty good condition and never had an issue keeping the 383 below 180f


I was close :lol:

I would run triple 255s fastbird or, double 450s

Sorry for thread hijack OP

no worries, all good info

so looks like i will give the twin 255's a shot, will be cheaper for me since i already have a 255 in the car so it will just be getting another one and some fuel line which i may already have and a Y. good thing i already have the dreaded trap door mod done so it should be super easy to pull the sending unit. another thing i was thinking, should i be upgrading to an aftermarket FPR or can the stock FPR handle the added pressure?

[shownomercy]

ohh my bad, for some reason i thought you had all this on a 355. i may take a chance on the stock rad since mine it still in pretty good condition and never had an issue keeping the 383 below 180f

no worries, all good info

so looks like i will give the twin 255's a shot, will be cheaper for me since i already have a 255 in the car so it will just be getting another one and some fuel line which i may already have and a Y. good thing i already have the dreaded trap door mod done so it should be super easy to pull the sending unit. another thing i was thinking, should i be upgrading to an aftermarket FPR or can the stock FPR handle the added pressure?

IMO, I would upgrade to a adjustable.

Again, if you need more healthy margin on fuel injectors you can run higher base pressures. I run 55psi on mine and since the pump can do that, it gets me a little more head room for pushing injectors.

[hokeplaya05]

okay, i will ad that to the list, any suggestions on brand? i think I've seen guys running aeromotive FPR's but don't know much about them

what pump setup are you running SNM? I've been following your thread but must have missed it, i do see you have all AN lines where i am trying to keep the stock steel lines as long as i can get away with it

[Fastbird]

I was close :lol:

I would run triple 255s fastbird or, double 450s

Sorry for thread hijack OP

More thread hijack. :D

I have 95# injectors. But car was previously at 760 RWHP with 80# injectors at (if I remember right, this was back in 2009 before I sold the car) about 75% duty cycle. When I bought the car back I know it was making in the 825-850 range with the 95's at 15# boost and plenty of headroom because it was (shortly) at over 20# boost with no issues. Really my plan is to just see how far the factory lines and 97-98 Return rail setup will go and then just leave it. I like the factory ish look in the engine bay over a bunch of extra lines, regulator, and rails.
hokeplaya05 I would DEFINITELY upgrade to an AFPR. I know the factory FRP in my vette is a 1:1 rise under boost (hence why I'm using it), but I'm not sure about the older LTx ones.

[shownomercy]

okay, i will ad that to the list, any suggestions on brand? i think I've seen guys running aeromotive FPR's but don't know much about them

what pump setup are you running SNM? I've been following your thread but must have missed it, i do see you have all AN lines where i am trying to keep the stock steel lines as long as i can get away with it

Magnafuel 4301, its big and its loud, but it doesn't balk at pushing ~70psi

[hokeplaya05]

got an hour to work on the car after work today, confirmed that the stock rad will fit and i can't use the stock fans so derale pushers it is. also found a few more issues; one of the outlets on the water pump aims right at the turbo and my strano front swaybar isn't going to fit with the way the hot side is routed.

not sure what i want to do about the water pump outlet, i'm thinking i can cut it and rotate the outlet and have someone weld it back together so it clears the turbo
38882

as for the sway bar, i was able to snake it in so it almost worked, if the up pipe was like an inch lower it would bolt up but then it would be below the k member. i really like the strano bar so i'm going to try to make it work, there is about 5 inches in between the bar and the steering rack/lines so i think it can be tucked behind the sway bar. i'll have to find the stock swaybar to throw in there for now, but at some point i'll bring it to my buddy to see if he can tuck the pipe between the bar and rack.
38883

here are some other pics of the progress, cold side all mocked up and cut the front bumper for airflow to the IC. left "fangs" as i've seen the ls guys do, and i think it looks pretty sick lol
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[shownomercy]

Just cap the waterpump and its fitting on the rad, its for the oil cooler if you had one.

https://i.imgur.com/uivMB89l.jpg

My advice is to give up on the front sway bar, or lower the bar. If you sneak the hot side under it, and keep the car lowered, you will hit everything with the hotside.

[Fastbird]

Bingo. Find a good SILICONE cap. Rubber ones will very quickly degrade and leak. Not that I know from experience or anything, lol.

[Cathead]

"not sure what i want to do about the water pump outlet, i'm thinking i can cut it and rotate the outlet and have someone weld it back together so it clears the turbo"
Pull it out, tap it and put a plug in it. If you needed it later, you could use AN fittings or a threaded heater hose fitting.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

[hokeplaya05]

Pull it out, tap it and put a plug in it. If you needed it later, you could use AN fittings or a threaded heater hose fitting.

this is what i was thinking after i posted that and will actually probably end up doing this, i don't have an oil cooler so just have a bypass hose that goes to the rad so no need for it anyways.

i am going to try to get the strano bar to work, i think my buddy can re-do the hotside to tuck up between the bar and steering rack. i set this car up as a corner carver and would like to keep it that way if at all possible. it will get the stock bar to get it on the road and driving then i can bring it to his shop and see what he thinks.

[Fastbird]

this is what i was thinking after i posted that and will actually probably end up doing this, i don't have an oil cooler so just have a bypass hose that goes to the rad so no need for it anyways.

i am going to try to get the strano bar to work, i think my buddy can re-do the hotside to tuck up between the bar and steering rack. i set this car up as a corner carver and would like to keep it that way if at all possible. it will get the stock bar to get it on the road and driving then i can bring it to his shop and see what he thinks.

If your buddy is going to rework around the swaybar, I'd see if he can rework that 180* bend coming off of the passenger side header also. That entire bend I think could be cut out and the merge turned to run forward. Would help overall packaging on it I think.

[hokeplaya05]

well finally found some time to work on the car a bit yesterday after work, decided i would try to tackle the front crossover pipe modification myself. i have a Lincoln 140 mig welder and figured i would give it a shot, don't have a whole lot of experience welding but this will be a good opportunity to gain some skills. originally i wanted my buddy to tig weld everything but that is overkill since it will all get heat wrapped anyways so you won't see my bad welding haha

as you can see, there is a ton of room behind the crossover to tuck up under the crank pulley
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i started by cutting the turbo flange from the crossover and bolted it to the support bracket so the turbo would end up in the same place so the downpipe would still work. then i cut the passenger side pipe so it ends right at the tensioner pulley and installed the swaybar so i knew where everything needed to go
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then i cut up the 90 that i cut off the turbo flange section and tacked it in place behind the swaybar. looks like there will be just enough room for the piping to fit behind the swaybar. i will re-route the power steering lines or make a shield to protect them from the heat if the heat wrapping on the pipe isn't enough, we'll have to see how that plays out
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that is as far as i got last night, hopefully in between coats of paint in my bathroom i can do some more work on this tomorrow and get the crossover tacked and ready to be final welded. i plan on placing the wastegate on the 90 under the turbo flange facing the wheel well and will also be adding in a vband somewhere in that straight section so it is easily removable like it was before.

[Fastbird]

Interesting! I wouldn't have thought there was room right there for it. Nice job.

[hokeplaya05]

Interesting! I wouldn't have thought there was room right there for it. Nice job.

i was surprised with the room myself, i wonder why he didn't route it this way from the beginning, guessing he was trying to keep the heat away from the rack. did you have the stock sway bar on your car?

only had a couple hours over the weekend to work on this, got the vband tacked in, in a good accessible spot and also re-did the turbo support bracket as it was super janky and only had one bolt hole in it and was broken (didn't get pics of it but will for the next update). just have to connect the dots with straight 3" piece which i have and will be the next thing i do, then i will pull everything out and final weld the joints
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[Cathead]

Looks like you're making good use out of the very little real estate these f-bodies offer

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

[Fastbird]

Yeah, my car had the stock sway bar up front.

WRAP EVERYTHING. The pipes, put fire sleeves on the rack lines, etc. Those lines being so close, it's going to want to boil the fluid. Same with the downpipe. Wrap it good, and then fire sleeve your brake lines running down the rail. I DID have trouble with heat and nearly had an accident one day because the fluid boiled after a couple hour drive and I lost about half my pedal. One of the reasons I was reworking my brake lines prior to parting the car out.

[hokeplaya05]

Yeah, my car had the stock sway bar up front.

WRAP EVERYTHING. The pipes, put fire sleeves on the rack lines, etc. Those lines being so close, it's going to want to boil the fluid. Same with the downpipe. Wrap it good, and then fire sleeve your brake lines running down the rail. I DID have trouble with heat and nearly had an accident one day because the fluid boiled after a couple hour drive and I lost about half my pedal. One of the reasons I was reworking my brake lines prior to parting the car out.

i plan on wrapping the entire hotside and down pipe back to the cat-back with titanium DEI like SNM suggested earlier, and i am thinking about doing a power steering cooler as well so that may (hopefully) re-locate most of those lines that are running in front of the rack. on top of that i was thinking i could make up a heat shield for the rack and put that gold heat tape on it to deflect some of that heat away. hopefully I'll have some time tonight before the bruins game starts to get the section of straight pipe tacked in so i can see where everything lands and figure out the line situation. pretty excited with how this is turning out though, really miss driving this car and now that the weather is nice it has me itching to get it finished and driving again

[hokeplaya05]

got the straight section tacked in and the hotside is ready to be final welded. pretty happy with how it came out, definitely going to try to relocate the lines from the rack to the pump and make a heat shield along with the wrapping the hotside. but thats all totally worth it to keep the strano sway bar to me

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[Fastbird]

Nice work. My only real concern looking at the pictures is potential for heat degredation on the bonded layer of the crank pulley. I don't want to see you doing an LSx wobbling pulley impersonation. Definitely a MUCH tighter fit!

By chance, did you remove that 180° bend on the passenger side and work it towards the front from the dump like I mentioned?

[Cathead]

Nice work. My only real concern looking at the pictures is potential for heat degredation on the bonded layer of the crank pulley. I don't want to see you doing an LSx wobbling pulley impersonation. Definitely a MUCH tighter fit!

By chance, did you remove that 180° bend on the passenger side and work it towards the front from the dump like I mentioned?Would the heat wrap, by itself, be enough to prevent melting the crank pulley bonding or could ceramic coating and wrapping be enough?

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

[hokeplaya05]

Nice work. My only real concern looking at the pictures is potential for heat degredation on the bonded layer of the crank pulley. I don't want to see you doing an LSx wobbling pulley impersonation. Definitely a MUCH tighter fit!

By chance, did you remove that 180° bend on the passenger side and work it towards the front from the dump like I mentioned?

i think there is enough air space around the pulley but i will definitely keep an eye on it once the car is up and running. i'm pretty happy with how i was able to get it tucked up so its higher than the k member, that means i get to keep the car low :claps:

i did see what you are talking about, that bend could be improved a lot and probably doesn't need that flex pipe either. i will probably leave it as is for now since it works, and next winter i can go through and re-work it and anything else that can be improved.

also forgot that i need to get the waste gate flange welded on too so i'll do that today along with some finish welding on the pipes

[Stormyweather]

Can't you get more space around the pulley by going to a smaller one?

Sent from my HP Pro Slate 8 using Tapatalk

[hokeplaya05]

yeah i probably could but don't think its necessary right now, i will keep an eye on it once the car is up and running

[hokeplaya05]

bout time for an update, and potentially not a good one at that as you'll see later. went on a little vacation last week for the 4th of July and before i went out of town i got a bunch of work done on the car. first off is a pic of my re-done turbo support bracket that i meant to put in a while ago when i finished it.
38966
got the complete hotside final welded and made sure there weren't any pin holes or anything. i wasn't able to find anywhere that sold the POR15 "black velvet" that SNM was suggesting but ended up with high temp POR15 which is a gray color instead of the normal black. got the hotside completely coated and is ready for heat wrap (which i have)
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38970
pulled the water pump off and tapped a -10AN thread in the outlet that was hitting the turbo (oil cooler feed) and plugged it and got that reinstalled with new gaskets
38975
i also dropped the subframe so i could finish weld the cuts i had to do for the manifolds to fit and drop the oil pan to weld a turbo drain fitting on and replace the low oil level sensor as the light was always on even though it had full oil. i had to cut off a corner of the passenger rear control arm mounts so i boxed that in and painted it and also cleaned up and painted where i had to clearance the driver side motor mount for the manifold. supported the motor with a jack under the front of the transmission
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now we come to the bad part of this update...... pulled the oil pan this afternoon and found some stuff i am not to happy about. got the oil level sensor off and saw the reason why it was faulty..... not sure where the float is but it certainly isn't in the pan anywhere. old one next to the new one:
38976
so that had me looking around in the pan for the pieces of the float and that's where i found this, looks like a needle bearing from something, thinking possibly roller rockers but not sure, i have comp ultra pro mags 1.6 ratio, not sure if they have needle bearings or not
38977
that prompted me to look in the pickup screen and that's where it got interesting..... found several chunks of metal lodged in the pickup. not sure how well you can see in the pic
38978

so needless to say i will probably be calling my engine builder Monday (or stop by and talk to him as his shop is 5 minutes from where i work) and see what he says. super bummed finding this stuff, everything looks good on the bottom end and the car ran great with no inclination that anything was wrong before i pulled it apart. i don't have the spare money right now to rebuild this motor if it needs to (most likely does) but i guess we will have to see what Golen says. let me know what you guys think, pretty much at a stand still. i was hoping to have the car back on the road by the end of this month but looking like it will be a while now :\

[SSlowBoat]

bout time for an update, and potentially not a good one at that as you'll see later. went on a little vacation last week for the 4th of July and before i went out of town i got a bunch of work done on the car. first off is a pic of my re-done turbo support bracket that i meant to put in a while ago when i finished it.
38966
got the complete hotside final welded and made sure there weren't any pin holes or anything. i wasn't able to find anywhere that sold the POR15 "black velvet" that SNM was suggesting but ended up with high temp POR15 which is a gray color instead of the normal black. got the hotside completely coated and is ready for heat wrap (which i have)
38967
38968
38969
38970
pulled the water pump off and tapped a -10AN thread in the outlet that was hitting the turbo (oil cooler feed) and plugged it and got that reinstalled with new gaskets
38975
i also dropped the subframe so i could finish weld the cuts i had to do for the manifolds to fit and drop the oil pan to weld a turbo drain fitting on and replace the low oil level sensor as the light was always on even though it had full oil. i had to cut off a corner of the passenger rear control arm mounts so i boxed that in and painted it and also cleaned up and painted where i had to clearance the driver side motor mount for the manifold. supported the motor with a jack under the front of the transmission
38974
38971
38972
38973

now we come to the bad part of this update...... pulled the oil pan this afternoon and found some stuff i am not to happy about. got the oil level sensor off and saw the reason why it was faulty..... not sure where the float is but it certainly isn't in the pan anywhere. old one next to the new one:
38976
so that had me looking around in the pan for the pieces of the float and that's where i found this, looks like a needle bearing from something, thinking possibly roller rockers but not sure, i have comp ultra pro mags 1.6 ratio, not sure if they have needle bearings or not
38977
that prompted me to look in the pickup screen and that's where it got interesting..... found several chunks of metal lodged in the pickup. not sure how well you can see in the pic
38978

so needless to say i will probably be calling my engine builder Monday (or stop by and talk to him as his shop is 5 minutes from where i work) and see what he says. super bummed finding this stuff, everything looks good on the bottom end and the car ran great with no inclination that anything was wrong before i pulled it apart. i don't have the spare money right now to rebuild this motor if it needs to (most likely does) but i guess we will have to see what Golen says. let me know what you guys think, pretty much at a stand still. i was hoping to have the car back on the road by the end of this month but looking like it will be a while now :\That looks like a roller rocker pin. i had that happen on my 94 with lt4 rockers. looks too big to be a needle bearing from a rocker

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[Cathead]

In an effort to help you make lemonade from your lemons, you did good finding an engine issue before you did all the work to complete your car, put the boost to it just to start squirting parts out!

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[shownomercy]

Agreed with Shaun that it looks like a pin not a rocker part. Could be the pin that held the oil float on.

Big stuff like that isn't terrible as the screen should catch em, but def not good.

(Side note, but I would highly suggest not running that exhaust so close to the rack. I know you have to at this point, but shield lines, wrap lines, and wrap the hotside. PS fluid is not something you want boiling or flashing over)

[EGT's at WOT will be easily exceed 1400* pre turbine]

[hokeplaya05]

thanks Shaun and SNM, yeah you guys are probably right, too big to be a roller bearing so most likely a pin, now to find where the heck it came from. I'm going to stop by the engine builders shop tomorrow after work and talk to him, that chunk had to have come from somewhere so motor most likely needs to be gone through. as cathead says the silver lining is that i found this before adding the boost and figuring out real quick there were issues. another thing i was thinking about is if i do end up bringing the engine back to the shop to be gone through, i can have him swap out the cast crank for a forged unit like i should've done when i had the motor built the first time (was young and dumb and didn't want to spring the extra $$ for the forged crank) which i was planning on doing this winter anyways. we shall see what he says though


(Side note, but I would highly suggest not running that exhaust so close to the rack. I know you have to at this point, but shield lines, wrap lines, and wrap the hotside. PS fluid is not something you want boiling or flashing over)

[EGT's at WOT will be easily exceed 1400* pre turbine]

yes, hotside will be wrapped, i plan on adding a power steering cooler and will re-locate the two main lines from that area and wrap/shield the rack itself. concerns have been noted lol i won't be skimping on heat protection for that area

[hokeplaya05]

been super busy and lost motivation on this thing the last couple weeks but decided to climb under the car and fish that chunk out to see what it is. turns out it is a thin piece of aluminum (looks like a slightly thicker piece of aluminum foil) not a chunk like i though initially that is about half inch by half inch in size when flattened out. anybody have any idea where that may have came from? I've been trying to figure it out but can't think of anything in the motor that looks like that. last time i drove the car was the day before xmas 2018 and it drove as normal with no unusual noises or anything like that. because of that, i am sort of inclined to just put it back together as is and run it and take my chances. i have no idea how long those pieces have been in the pan, could've been a week or 3 years for all i know. what do you guys think?

[Fastbird]

Put a picture of it up. We pulled a chunk of metal out of Ben's block at one point......turned out it was......well.......let's see a pic of what you have first.

[SSlowBoat]

been super busy and lost motivation on this thing the last couple weeks but decided to climb under the car and fish that chunk out to see what it is. turns out it is a thin piece of aluminum (looks like a slightly thicker piece of aluminum foil) not a chunk like i though initially that is about half inch by half inch in size when flattened out. anybody have any idea where that may have came from? I've been trying to figure it out but can't think of anything in the motor that looks like that. last time i drove the car was the day before xmas 2018 and it drove as normal with no unusual noises or anything like that. because of that, i am sort of inclined to just put it back together as is and run it and take my chances. i have no idea how long those pieces have been in the pan, could've been a week or 3 years for all i know. what do you guys think?the seal from a 5 quart jug of oil sounds like what youre describing. put it back together and run it

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[hokeplaya05]

here is the piece next to the pin i found too. its not an oil seal from a bottle, its thicker than that.

38993

got a few hours today to do a couple things; got the turbo oil drain bung booger welded to the pan and got the ls1 front spindles and brake caliper painted. broke the bleed screw off in the other caliper so need to drill that out or get a new caliper and paint that to match

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[hokeplaya05]

so as part of all this i am also deleting the ABS module (already removed the module from the engine bay) to make more room for the BOV and to clean up the engine bay. from what i am reading there is a kit from SJM but it doesn't seem to be that great of a kit according to this thread (http://www.ltxtech.com/forums/showthread.php?23470-SMJ-Manufacturing-Manual-LT1-F-Body&highlight=abs+delete) so i am trying to piece together everything that i will need separately. from what i gather i can hook up the rear brake line directly to the master (i have a 3 channel car) and use a proportioning valve for the front with a split after to run the two front lines, is that correct or do i need a proportioning valve for both the front and back? not looking to do line lock or anything at this time just trying to keep it simple. looking for some insight from people who have done this

[SSlowBoat]

so as part of all this i am also deleting the ABS module (already removed the module from the engine bay) to make more room for the BOV and to clean up the engine bay. from what i am reading there is a kit from SJM but it doesn't seem to be that great of a kit according to this thread (http://www.ltxtech.com/forums/showthread.php?23470-SMJ-Manufacturing-Manual-LT1-F-Body&highlight=abs+delete) so i am trying to piece together everything that i will need separately. from what i gather i can hook up the rear brake line directly to the master (i have a 3 channel car) and use a proportioning valve for the front with a split after to run the two front lines, is that correct or do i need a proportioning valve for both the front and back? not looking to do line lock or anything at this time just trying to keep it simple. looking for some insight from people who have done this

You need a proportioning valve for the REAR brakes, not the front. so it would be rear line from master---->prop valve--->rear brakes. Front just gets a tee and goes to both front brakes. you want full braking to the front (brakes that do most of the braking) and less to the rear, since when you hit the brakes the rear weight transfers forward. Otherwise you will lock up the rear brakes (which is really no fun, especially when going towards a deer then a tree then a house then a truck, had my prop valve improperly adjusted and still locked up rears)

[hokeplaya05]

You need a proportioning valve for the REAR brakes, not the front. so it would be rear line from master---->prop valve--->rear brakes. Front just gets a tee and goes to both front brakes. you want full braking to the front (brakes that do most of the braking) and less to the rear, since when you hit the brakes the rear weight transfers forward. Otherwise you will lock up the rear brakes (which is really no fun, especially when going towards a deer then a tree then a house then a truck, had my prop valve improperly adjusted and still locked up rears)

that makes way more sense, thanks for clearing that up. thinking i will just spring for the basic kit without line lock and will have to find out what that 1-2 brass fitting is in post #6 of that thread for the front lines

[shownomercy]

if you are making your own brake lines, save the money and buy the Summit prop valve.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g3905

And, do yourself a favor... buy & install a line lock solenoid.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sbr-ll?seid=srese1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMItte5xY7y4wIVhlmGCh1nXgdvEAQYAiAB EgIUifD_BwE

Even if you don't wire it up, you will want it when the car is setup and you want to do rowdy burnouts

[SSlowBoat]

if you are making your own brake lines, save the money and buy the Summit prop valve.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g3905

And, do yourself a favor... buy & install a line lock solenoid.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sbr-ll?seid=srese1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMItte5xY7y4wIVhlmGCh1nXgdvEAQYAiAB EgIUifD_BwE

Even if you don't wire it up, you will want it when the car is setup and you want to do rowdy burnoutseh, Ltconvert has a line lock thats never been wired in his, he makes enough to do rowdy burnouts without it lol

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[hokeplaya05]

what spark plugs would you guys suggest i run? currently have TR6's in the car and figure this will be a good time to throw some new ones in while the manifolds and subframe are out of the car. also, where are you guys getting 80lb injectors from? are they the same injectors that would fin an LS or are the LT specific? i think i got the 36lb-ers off ebay that are in the car now but not positive. got some stuff done on the car over the weekend which i will update with pictures later but trying to get these on order today so i can have them by the weekend

[Fastbird]

I'd recommend either a NGK BR6EF or a BR7EF depending on how far you plant to push it (BR7's are colder, my T/A would foul them QUICK).

[shownomercy]

I run TR6's and probably are at the limit of what the plug is good for. ~15psi of boost.

If you don't want to pass that level, run TR6s and don't have to change em that often.

[hokeplaya05]

okay cool, so i will stick with the tr6's for now, not trying to go over 10lbs (going to target 6-8) until i can get a forged crank in this thing.

which reminds me- Fastbird do you happen to remember what pound spring(s) are in the waste gate? i would guess its a 10lb or there abouts as i think you were running 14lbs with a boost controller IIRC which would mean i would need a softer spring

any idea on injectors? i am not having much luck finding a source for 80lb-ers

[shownomercy]

https://www.efisource.com/wp/shop/siemens-deka-80lb-high-impedance-fuel-injector-set-of-8/

Enjoy getting the wastegate spring changed. :lol:

[hokeplaya05]

thanks, i was looking for lt specific injectors but those look similar to the ls style

is it really that bad? i haven't really looked at the wastegate to see how it comes apart

[shownomercy]

thanks, i was looking for lt specific injectors but those look similar to the ls style

is it really that bad? i haven't really looked at the wastegate to see how it comes apart

Are you not running 24x or similar?

And the wastegate is just a fun combo of big ass spring, and big ass retaining ring. Really need two people and or a vice.

[Fastbird]

Oh man, I don't remember which spring is in it. I think it might have been the 7lb spring because with I seem to recall everything working correctly I was only getting to about double spring pressure and was mystified as to why I couldn't get it farther than that with the controller.........7-8lb spring makes sense.

[hokeplaya05]

Are you not running 24x or similar?

And the wastegate is just a fun combo of big ass spring, and big ass retaining ring. Really need two people and or a vice.

no 24x to start, thinking i can run it on stock computer with a tune from moe on low boost and when i want to turn up the wick, switch over to a 24x setup most likely the torquehead kit. i do have a nice 6" vice in my garage so that shouldn't be an issue but looks like it has the perfect spring in it so i won't have to take it apart.....yet


Oh man, I don't remember which spring is in it. I think it might have been the 7lb spring because with I seem to recall everything working correctly I was only getting to about double spring pressure and was mystified as to why I couldn't get it farther than that with the controller.........7-8lb spring makes sense.

that would be perfect, not looking to go over 8lbs so i can work out any kinks, so looks like i will install it as is and see where it lands

i'm on vacation next week so hopefully make a big dent in this project, would love to have it up and running before we get snow here in the north east, still have a lot to do and stuff to buy

[shownomercy]

Just cause you have a 15lb spring in, does not mean you will see 15psi every time you drive it. Thats the nice advantage turbo's have.

Drive it normal and you won't see a single 1psi of boost.

[hokeplaya05]

so been working on the car when i have time the last several weeks, phone was broken for a couple weeks and had to get a new one so lost some in progress pictures unfortunately. ordered the 80 pounders the other day and they should be in tomorrow so i will be swapping them in and installing the adjustable FPR at the same time. did the fuel line relocation mod and welded in the hole in the fender and welded in some other random holes that were there as well. intercooler final mounted, cleaned up painted the upper mount and reworked the lowers to fit. cold side pipes are fitted with the MAF as well. started running the ABS delete kit, should be able to use all stock lines will just have to do some cutting bending and re-flaring to fit. need to order some fittings and should be able to finish that. here are some pics of where i'm at

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i also wrapped and installed the manifolds, put new tr6 plugs in and ran the wires while the k member is still out, once i get the fuel rail done and reinstalled i will install the k member (helps to be able to lower the motor with the k member out for fuel rail access) and start putting the front suspension back together. more to come

[hokeplaya05]

got some more done over the weekend on the car, installed the 80 pounders and AFPR on the fuel rail and rigged up a fuel pressure gauge, took a couple trips back and forth to my local advanced auto to get the right fittings but hopefully it will work. also was able to officially finish the fuel line relo with the fuel rail re-installed.
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also got the k member back up in the car and the motor bolted back up to it. also throwing some pics in of the wrapped manifolds that i didn't show before
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next up is to finish wrapping the hotside and get that installed for the final time, get the spindles/suspension re-installed with the ls1 front brake setup and figure out the dual in tank 255 setup (need to do some more research on this) then it will need a tune and should be good to go!

[Fastbird]

Kinda cool seeing my old turbo kit coming back to life. You're gonna love how that BOV sounds.....just saying.

[hokeplaya05]

i'm pretty excited to get it on the road and hear how it sounds, hoping for a month or two of driving around and working out the kinks before the snow hits and i park it for the winter. biggest hurdle now is saving up for a tune which i want to talk to Moe about soon

[Injuneer]

Keep an eye on that Aeromotive AFPR. Over the past 20+ years of helping LT1 owners on sites like this, I have seen many failures of that specific part. They start leaking internally. Aeromotive initially blamed it on their failure to update the internal materials to reflect the changing composition of pump gas, but that was almost 20 years ago, and they are still failing.

[Cathead]

Keep an eye on that Aeromotive AFPR. Over the past 20+ years of helping LT1 owners on sites like this, I have seen many failures of that specific part. They start leaking internally. Aeromotive initially blamed it on their failure to update the internal materials to reflect the changing composition of pump gas, but that was almost 20 years ago, and they are still failing.I had no idea that was a common issue but mine leaked bad!

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[hokeplaya05]

Keep an eye on that Aeromotive AFPR. Over the past 20+ years of helping LT1 owners on sites like this, I have seen many failures of that specific part. They start leaking internally. Aeromotive initially blamed it on their failure to update the internal materials to reflect the changing composition of pump gas, but that was almost 20 years ago, and they are still failing.

i hadn't heard about that but will keep an eye on it for sure. hopefully they'd warranty it if it does start to leak, i got it from summit and they are usually pretty good about stuff like that.

[Injuneer]

I noticed the high failure rate back in the early 2000's. I was warning people about them, and it upset Aeromotive so much they had one of their tech people join CamaroZ28.com and try to discredit me and shut me up. But over the years, way too many times when I've responded to a description of an LT1 poor running problem, and asked what brand the AFPR was, it turns out it is almost always an Aeromotive, and it's leaking.

I know Aeromotive makes some good fuel system components, and it always makes me wonder what is so difficult about the LT1 AFPR that they can't fix the problem. Guess it's the same as MSD - they make killer ignition systems, but their Opti's are plagued with one problem after another.

[Stormyweather]

What is it just a diaphragm and springs right? With check valves and such. Wonder why? Is there an alternative ?

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[shownomercy]

What is it just a diaphragm and springs right? With check valves and such. Wonder why? Is there an alternative ?

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In my limited experience, its been leaky O rings.

[hokeplaya05]

thanks for the heads up about the APR, i will be keeping an eye on it, hopefully they've got their act together by now and it will be fine.

decided to pull the sending unit last night to start figuring out what i want to do for the dual in-tank walbro 255's. was made much easier by the trap door mod i did 6 years ago when i installed the single walbro 255. only regret is how many screws i used, could've used half that amount and i would've been fine lol oh well. anyways, been looking at some old threads on cz28 forum and this one trying to get an idea of what other people have done. thinking i will wire it so one pump will be on all the time (like factory) and have the second pump come on at around 4-5psi of boost using a boost pressure switch. still trying to figure out the wiring and unfortunately all the pics in the threads i am looking at are gone at this point. i am thinking i can get this all done for under $200 since i already have a walbro 255 so just need another one, some submersible fuel line/clamps, y block, pressure switch, relays and wire which i may already have enough of. if anyone has any input or pics of their dual in-tank setup feel free to post them too.

here are some pics from last night

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[95 blackbird]

Use a hobbs switch. Inexpensive, effective, and would be easy for you to install.

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[hokeplaya05]

Use a hobbs switch. Inexpensive, effective, and would be easy for you to install.

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isn't that essentially the same thing? was planning on snagging one off ebay and when i searched "boost pressure switch" i was getting hobbs switches popping up as well.

[shownomercy]

If you plan on running a EBC, you can easily trigger second fuel pump off that.

[hokeplaya05]

i'm assuming EBC means electronic boost controller. i was thinking about going with the AEM tru-boost controller/gauge setup since i already have an AEM uego AFR gauge in my pillar pod so they would match. its a little pricey but i would want an AEM boost gauge anyways and a boost controller for when i want to turn it up so can knock out two birds with one stone

[shownomercy]

i'm assuming EBC means electronic boost controller. i was thinking about going with the AEM tru-boost controller/gauge setup since i already have an AEM uego AFR gauge in my pillar pod so they would match. its a little pricey but i would want an AEM boost gauge anyways and a boost controller for when i want to turn it up so can knock out two birds with one stone

Yup, I would assume it can be used to trigger relays. I would have a manual over ride to turn on second pump when you know you are racing

[hokeplaya05]

cool, i'll probably end up doing that then. i have some house bills i need to take care of then i will be getting the rest of the fuel stuff i need to complete the dual 255 setup.

don't think i'll be doing much racing with this car, certainly won't see the strip that often although i would like to see what it'll run at some point. would be cool to get into the 10's with a 6 speed eventually but not too concerned about track times at the moment

[hokeplaya05]

so talked to my buddy that does fab work on the side and ended up giving him my spindles to shorten the steering knuckle for a little more steering angle while i had everything apart. i had him cut 1/2" out and he did an awesome job. i was debating on doing this myself but have never welded cast steel before and figured i would feel better if he did it. got them back from him, re-painted them with POR15 and got everything mounted. i think I've said before but did the ls1 front brake conversion, new hawk HPS front pads and a quality blank rotor and also threw some extended studs in the new hubs as well. have another set of extended studs for the rear as well. just need to run the front brake lines to finish it off but will tackle that when i complete the ABS delete

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[shownomercy]

But...why?

[hokeplaya05]

But...why?

because i wanted to and had the means to do it. i didn't go crazy with it, like i said i only had him take 1/2" out when most of the 240sx guys running cut knuckles do 1"+ for drifting. i enjoed getting this car sideways as it was and a little more angle can't hurt. plus, the turning radius on these cars sucks anyways, i cant even do a U-turn on a 2 lane road without having to do a 3 point turn (295's in the front don't help that either). i want it to be a fun street car; fast in a straight line, quick in the twisties, and when i want to kick the back end out, hold decent angle. i found a company that makes dual caliper brackets for the rear of these cars and works with ls1 rear calipers, which i happen to have as part of the front ls1 brake swap i got, so it will be getting a hydro e-brake as well over the winter.

[SSlowBoat]

because i wanted to and had the means to do it. i didn't go crazy with it, like i said i only had him take 1/2" out when most of the 240sx guys running cut knuckles do 1"+ for drifting. i enjoed getting this car sideways as it was and a little more angle can't hurt. plus, the turning radius on these cars sucks anyways, i cant even do a U-turn on a 2 lane road without having to do a 3 point turn (295's in the front don't help that either). i want it to be a fun street car; fast in a straight line, quick in the twisties, and when i want to kick the back end out, hold decent angle. i found a company that makes dual caliper brackets for the rear of these cars and works with ls1 rear calipers, which i happen to have as part of the front ls1 brake swap i got, so it will be getting a hydro e-brake as well over the winter.you are gonna boil the fluid quicker with the wide fronts, especially now with the angle. Send the rack/pump to turn1 steering for their road course revalve, and run a power steering cooler

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[hokeplaya05]

you are gonna boil the fluid quicker with the wide fronts, especially now with the angle. Send the rack/pump to turn1 steering for their road course revalve, and run a power steering cooler

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i am planning on a cooler for sure. I found a factory replacement cooler for these cars which i didn't realize some came with them, maybe the 1le cars did or something but dorman has one on summit that i found. didn't know turn1 did lt1 stuff but i will definitely look into that. I've boiled the fluid a couple times messing around in abandoned parking lots with friends so i already know all about that.

[shownomercy]

because i wanted to and had the means to do it. i didn't go crazy with it, like i said i only had him take 1/2" out when most of the 240sx guys running cut knuckles do 1"+ for drifting. i enjoed getting this car sideways as it was and a little more angle can't hurt. plus, the turning radius on these cars sucks anyways, i cant even do a U-turn on a 2 lane road without having to do a 3 point turn (295's in the front don't help that either). i want it to be a fun street car; fast in a straight line, quick in the twisties, and when i want to kick the back end out, hold decent angle. i found a company that makes dual caliper brackets for the rear of these cars and works with ls1 rear calipers, which i happen to have as part of the front ls1 brake swap i got, so it will be getting a hydro e-brake as well over the winter.

Ah ok, was just asking cause I was curious. Don't know much outside of the go fast, go straight, keep shiny side up mindset.

[hokeplaya05]

Ah ok, was just asking cause I was curious. Don't know much outside of the go fast, go straight, keep shiny side up mindset.

yeah i put the car together to be corner carver and want to keep it that way, which is why i wanted to re-work the hotside to work with my strano 35mm front swaybar. if that couldn't work then i wouldn't have gone forward with the turbo kit. the long term plan is to find a 94-95 auto car to swap the motor/turbo setup into with a th400 and go full race car and this car will likely get a h/c 350 or 355 (have a 95 lt1 short block sitting in my garage for that) and it will be a track/drift car and stay t56. but i want to have some fun with the turbo/t56 setup for a couple years and who knows may stick with it, but it would also be cool to have a 9 sec turbo lt1 street car too if i went auto with it.

[hokeplaya05]

so been slowly knocking things out on the car as i can and ran into an issue, when i mocked up the hotside i didn't think about putting the connector on the knock sensor and am now finding that the pipe that goes from the merge to the front under the pass motor mount is hitting that connector and wont let that vband connection work. is there anywhere else i can put the knock sensor on the block?

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[SSlowBoat]

so been slowly knocking things out on the car as i can and ran into an issue, when i mocked up the hotside i didn't think about putting the connector on the knock sensor and am now finding that the pipe that goes from the merge to the front under the pass motor mount is hitting that connector and wont let that vband connection work. is there anywhere else i can put the knock sensor on the block?

39270the other side, there should be a plug there.

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[Fastbird]

I may be mistakenly thinking of the Gen III+ stuff but I seem to remember there being another port up higher also.

[SSlowBoat]

I may be mistakenly thinking of the Gen III+ stuff but I seem to remember there being another port up higher also.i dont think there is on a lt1, i can look tomorrow.

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[SSlowBoat]

I may be mistakenly thinking of the Gen III+ stuff but I seem to remember there being another port up higher also.On the 94 shortblock i have in the garage there is only the 2 on the bottom. passenger side has knock sensor, drivers side has a plug in it. nothing up higher into the coolant jacket

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[Injuneer]

The F-Body KS uses the block drain port, passenger side. There is another block drain in the same place on the driver side. The Corvette LT1 has dual knock sensors, one KS on each side in those drain ports. Either side should work as well..

[SSlowBoat]

The F-Body KS uses the block drain port, passenger side. There is another block drain in the same place on the driver side. The Corvette LT1 has dual knock sensors, one KS on each side in those drain ports. Either side should work as well..Impala uses both as well. always great to see you pop in buddy!

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[Fastbird]

On the 94 shortblock i have in the garage there is only the 2 on the bottom. passenger side has knock sensor, drivers side has a plug in it. nothing up higher into the coolant jacket

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My age must be starting to show itself. Thanks for the correction.

[Injuneer]

My age must be starting to show itself. Thanks for the correction.

I know how that works :D ..... old age is a bitch.

Maybe you were thinking about the port right above the oil filter. But that’s exposed to oil and used for the oil pressure sensor on 93’s and “early” 94’s.

[SSlowBoat]

I know how that works :D ..... old age is a bitch.

Maybe you were thinking about the port right above the oil filter. But that’s exposed to oil and used for the oil pressure sensor on 93’s and “early” 94’s.correct, perfect spot for turbo oil feed or old procharger supercharger oil feed.

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[hokeplaya05]

awesome thanks guys, i will get it swapped to the drivers side port then, will just have to extend the one wire for the sensor connector which is easy. i will be running the turbo oil feed off the port above the oil filter as well

[hokeplaya05]

well, this thing just keeps fighting me with everything i try to do. got the knock sensor swapped to the other side, had to pull the motor mount and grind away for clearance and as i was lowering the motor back down saw that the knock sensor is now hitting the mount pedestal on the kmember and the motor mount bolt wont go in either even if i could get it to line up. so i am at a loss at this point, theres no way its going to work on the drivers side so i'll have to figure out how it make it work on the pass side it seems. does anyone know if there any alternate smaller knock sensor available that would work?

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[shownomercy]

Why even run a KS?

But, you could look at running dry KS LSX style

[Injuneer]

Now we know why only the F-Body doesn’t have a dual KS. They couldn’t figure out how to make it fit either.....

I don’t run a KS. Don’t play well with a solid roller camshaft.

[hokeplaya05]

okay sweet, i was gonna ask how important a knock sensor is on an obd1 car but didnt want to sounds dumb lol i'll keep the knock sensor to plug the hole and just not hook it up and i'll have plenty of room

[Injuneer]

Not really a matter of whether it's OBD-1 or OBD-2. They both function to eliminate detonation (knock) and prevent engine damage. If you are not running the KS, your tune has to account for that. First, you have to program out the code, because when the KS code sets (DTC 43) the PCM defaults to a spark retard based on RPM, engine load, etc. You will see almost constant knock retard with the code set. You could eliminate the code with e 4,000 ohm resistor in between the single sensor wire and the block, but I would have the tuner program it out, and so he takes the absence of the KS into account in the fuel/spark tuning.

Just make sure when you are tuning it you check the plugs for signs of detonation. It's going to take extra effort to find that sweet spot. If you are running pump gas, allow a bit of a margin, because you can get a bad tank. Don't tune it for 100-octane (which is not likely to gain much if any power), if that is only available at the track. Be sure to keep alert for the typical sound of detonation - often described as "ball bearings rattling in a coffee can". A wide band O2 sensor could also help, keeping you aware of lean out that promotes detonation.

My setup spent a large amount of time on an engine dyno, maximizing performance for N/A, and for two stages of nitrous, based on the fuel available. By using a "race" fuel for nitrous, the variations in octane can be eliminated, because stuff you get from VP Fuels, for example, has a certified blend and octane rating. Just have to buy it by the drum so it's always available. Then the tunes were verified on a chassis dyno, after everything was put together and ready for the street/track. Then was verified on the track by the tuner. As many times as he tried to show me what to look for on the plugs, using his lighted magnifier, I never gained complete confidence that I could reach the same conclusions he did.

[shownomercy]

Just make sure you do not get aggressive with the tune, leave timing lazy and let boost make power for you.

[hokeplaya05]

so i haven't worked on the car in several months, been busy with house projects and just haven't had time to touch the car. now that i am at a good point with the house I'd like to start knocking some stuff off the list on the car and the biggest thing is the fuel system. already have the 80lb injectors and AFPR installed and just need to figure out a plan for the pump(s). original plan was a dual in tank walbro 255 setup with hobbs switch on the second pump to kick on at ~3lbs of boost, still have no problem going that route just wanted to weigh the pros and cons of doing that vs. doing a single large pump (walbro 450 or similar) which is what i have been thinking about lately. i know doing the duals with the hobbs switch will help with fuel economy while cruising around out of boost but this is also a nice day fun car so i am not really concerned about that. anyone have any opinions either way? mainly thinking the large single pump will be more simple to install and run than going with the duals.

[SSlowBoat]

so i haven't worked on the car in several months, been busy with house projects and just haven't had time to touch the car. now that i am at a good point with the house I'd like to start knocking some stuff off the list on the car and the biggest thing is the fuel system. already have the 80lb injectors and AFPR installed and just need to figure out a plan for the pump(s). original plan was a dual in tank walbro 255 setup with hobbs switch on the second pump to kick on at ~3lbs of boost, still have no problem going that route just wanted to weigh the pros and cons of doing that vs. doing a single large pump (walbro 450 or similar) which is what i have been thinking about lately. i know doing the duals with the hobbs switch will help with fuel economy while cruising around out of boost but this is also a nice day fun car so i am not really concerned about that. anyone have any opinions either way? mainly thinking the large single pump will be more simple to install and run than going with the duals.I know Catmaigne was having a problem with fuel heating up with a giant single when cruising. the dual in tanks work fine

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[shownomercy]

Never understood the fuel heating issues folks have, maybe I am just lucky? I have a magnafuel 4301, ~2gpm and have not suffered from fuel heating. 8an lines, stock tank and a 10mic filter.

With that being said, its loud and it cycles a TON of fuel for no real need when part throttle aka 95% of the time.

A big single route I would recommend a modern brushless pump that you can PWM it based on TPS/MAP. That would get you the quiet and less fuel cycling of a small single pump with the overhead to go big. But this will be pricey.

Twin 340lphs in tank will be quiet and if you go bigger on injector will support a lot of power. The 255/340 pumps all suffer quite a lot when you ask them to push a lot of pressure, so you can't bandaid small injectors with pressure.

[Injuneer]

I run a Bosch high pressure 208 LPH pump in the stock in-tank sender. Then there's a 10AN connector welded to the back of the stock tank at the low point. That feeds a second high pressure 208 LPH pump, mounted outboard. In my case the second pump only turns on when the nitrous system is armed. The two (braided SS) 6AN pump discharge lines join in an NOS Y fitting, and go forward in a 6AN line. You would use a check valve in the outboard pump discharge line, to prevent the primary pump flow from circling back through the outboard pump when the outboard pump is not running. That way you don't rely on the outboard pump's internal check valve (if it has one) to prevent recycling.

Your approach of tying the second pump to boost make sense.

Just a thought.

[hokeplaya05]

so it sounds like the duals is probably the best bet for my setup. i would like to stick with 255's since i already have one from the NA 383 setup. but that is why i was thinking that i have to either buy another 255 or just buy a big single and then i can use the 255 i have for another project was what i was thinking

[shownomercy]

Another option, the hellcat fuel pump
https://walbrofuelpumps.com/walbro-f90000285-fuel-pump-525lph-e85-compatible-tiautomotive-tcd470.html

[Catmaigne]

I'm running a goofy temporary setup with 2x 255's inline (regular one in the bucket, gsl392 by the fuel filter) running constantly. I think the bulk of my fuel problem was coming from running it into the stock feed which definitely generated a lot of heat and a temp increase without enough fuel in the tank. I plumbed a B&M supercooler into the return line and haven't had issues with it... not yet at least.

I would just go with duals and upgrade the lines while you're at it. I have twin 340's from Racetronix along with E85 compatible lines I plan on running once I ditch the stock pcm.

[shownomercy]

More fancy thoughts, run dual 255s, with 6an individual feeds to each rail, then tie the rails together at regulator. Max efficiency.

[hokeplaya05]

the hellcat pump was the one i had in mind actually, i thought it was 450 though so 525 is even better. looking to stick with the factory lines, they should support what my goals are with this car