fuel pump hot wiring kit

[blkchevyz]

does anyone make a hot wire kit designed for dual pumps? i was looking at the casper, and racetronics one and neither of them say anything about dual pumps.

[blkchevyz]

or is there any write up on making your own? i find alot of the pump side of it, but thats seems like the easy part, not much on the electrical(the stuff that i really hate).

[Injuneer]

Get the specs on the pumps (max amp draw vs. voltage) and we can help you size the wiring and tell you how to install it.

[blkchevyz]

thanks, i'm all for experimenting and figuring things out on everything except electrical lol

right now i'm leaning toward 2 of these. one on a boost activated switch
VOLTAGE SPECS:

Connector Terminal: 6 mm Spade (pos/neg)
Min Voltage Input: 6 volts
Max Voltage Input: 18 volts
Current Draw (40 psi): 12 amps (13.5v)
Current Draw (80 psi): 15 amps (13.5v)

[Injuneer]

I would wire each pump directly from the "+" distribution box on the passenger front fender, each pump with its own circuit, using #10 AWG wire. The 12V side of each circuit should be protected with a 20-amp fuse. This assumes you are able to reach the pump with 15-feet of wire. If the circuit is longer than that, you would bump the wire up to #8 AWG.

The Racetronix kit gets power directly from the alternator, rather than the battery, but I have not tried it that way.

For the main pump (runs all the time) you can use a 12V 30/40-amp relay at the rear of the car, signaled off the stock fuel pump wiring..... when the PCM would normally kick on the stock pump, it supplies a 12V signal to the relay that pulls in the 12V circuit wired directly from the + box. For the boost activated pump, you would also use a relay, but would provide a 12V signal off the boost referenced switch.

The chassis can be used as the ground for all circuits. Just make sure the connections to the chassis are extremely clean, and using an adequate size bolt. Racetronix also recommends increasing the stock ground wiring from the battery to the chassis by adding another #8 wire.

[blkchevyz]

ah that make sense. for some reason i was over thinking it.

[shownomercy]

You talking dual intanks?

I have my external 625 wired with 10awg and a 100amp contactor. Battery is in trunk so it powers right off that (well to cutoff switch) and grounds straight to battery.

[blkchevyz]

yeah taking intank. but your comment about the battery made me think i should wait till i figure out if i'm relocating it or not. trying not to relocated it, but i might have to to get my cold piping back to the engine

[shownomercy]

Well not to get off topic but sub 10.00 or +135mph is a master cutoff switch requirement, so food for thought.