'95 Formula M6 [Archive] - LTXTECH Forums

Bull

02-08-2014, 10:14 PM

Hello everyone.

I got my new car home today. I feel pretty lucky to have picked it up. The seller received a lot of calls about it. I went to see it the morning after he posted it. One guy had been there before me and was thinking it over. Another guy called while I was there and said he was headed over. I offered the seller $200 less than he was asking. He accepted the offer and we shook on it. he was still getting calls days later. I paid $1800 for the car and got a a free tow home through my AAA membership.

The vehicle has some mods, but I haven't had much time to go through anything. It seems to have an SLP exhaust, some kind of coated headers, CAI, and the Corvette wheels. The interior is clean, with the stock stereo in place. The underside looks clean from what I can see. I am eager to get it up in the air and really get a good look under there.

The car has no battery so I haven't been able to test anything. I was told that it died on the street one day and will crank but not start. Could be a number of things. I'll start to check them one by one. I also have a '95 Roadmaster wagon that is my daily driver and which I have been ding a lot of work on. I still want to do some more stuff to that car. So, I have a pretty modest budget that is spread across two vehicles now. Progress on the Formula might be slow, but I sure would love to be driving it by late spring.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v708/2ManyCars/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9039_zps130dc07b.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/2ManyCars/media/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9039_zps130dc07b.jpg.html)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v708/2ManyCars/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9038_zps53c59f6c.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/2ManyCars/media/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9038_zps53c59f6c.jpg.html)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v708/2ManyCars/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9040_zps67ff09b4.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/2ManyCars/media/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9040_zps67ff09b4.jpg.html)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v708/2ManyCars/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9041_zps11c8d9bf.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/2ManyCars/media/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9041_zps11c8d9bf.jpg.html)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v708/2ManyCars/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9042_zpsa83ffd25.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/2ManyCars/media/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9042_zpsa83ffd25.jpg.html)

Still2slow

02-08-2014, 10:38 PM

Looks good man. Hopefully it's internally sound considering you haven't heard it run. Congrats on adding another LT to the stable!

popo8

02-08-2014, 10:38 PM

welcome to the site! congrats on the formula. Very sharp lookin! Is ur roadmaster an LT1 Car as well?

LTXtech.com is my drug.

Fastbird

02-08-2014, 10:43 PM

Woah Bull! That's things MINT for what you paid! Nice "you suck" score! Died while driving? My bet's ICM or Opti. :D

Glad you got it home safe!

Bull

02-08-2014, 10:52 PM

Looks good man. Hopefully it's internally sound considering you haven't heard it run. Congrats on adding another LT to the stable!

Thank you. I am hoping that it is sound, too. But, since the T56 swaps alone sell for what, $1600, I feel like there is no risk for me to have to eat my shorts on this buy.

welcome to the site! congrats on the formula. Very sharp lookin! Is ur roadmaster an LT1 Car as well?

LTXtech.com is my drug.

Thank you. Yes, the Roadmaster is an LT1 car. I see you guys have a section for Caprices and Impalas, but no Roadmasters! Maybe I'll test the waters and post a pic of the car in there anyway. :whistle:

Woah Bull! That's things MINT for what you paid! Nice "you suck" score! Died while driving? My bet's ICM or Opti. :D

Glad you got it home safe!

Thank you! This is probably the nicest car I have ever bought for under $2k. I'm hugely stoked to have a '95 Formula again. I have been watching some videos on testing the Opti and related components. Electrical troubleshooting has never been a strength of mine.

popo8

02-08-2014, 10:54 PM

Good call.. we should change that to "B-bodies" or add R.M. to the title. good catch!!!

LTXtech.com is my drug.

JCzNova

02-08-2014, 10:58 PM

With a "died while driving" and this economy I would make sure there is go-go juice in the tank first. Lol.

Good find! Fuel pump would be my first check and troubleshoot before jumping on the bad opti bandwagon.

Lst us know how it goes and
:welcome_ltxtech:

Sent from my S4 Mini

1sickta

02-08-2014, 11:01 PM

Not a bad buy for a clean 6 speed.

SSlowBoat

02-08-2014, 11:41 PM

nice formy!

95albinobird

02-13-2014, 12:01 AM

nice buy i think im jealous:YouSuck:.i don't even want to say what i paid for mine :cry:

willismoons

03-03-2014, 07:58 PM

you got a deal man, clean looking ride

97firehawk

03-03-2014, 08:11 PM

What a deal that is a nice looking car

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk

Bull

03-03-2014, 09:55 PM

Thanks, guys.

The car has just been sitting in front of my barn all this time. I don 't get much opportunity to work on cars unless I am on vacation. The good news is that I have a two-week vacation that begins this coming weekend. I am going to put a battery in the car, look at the FSM, and start troubleshooting. Hopefully it is something straightforward to fix so that I can put the car on the road in time for spring weather.

I don't tend to have much luck with car projects being simple or straightforward, though!

Bull

03-08-2014, 03:06 PM

Today is the first day of my vacation, so instead of spending any spare moment doing schoolwork, I am able to peck away at some projects.

I got a new Exide battery for the car. After installing it, the car wouldn't even try to turn over and there was no solenoid click at the starter. I tried a few times with no luck. The voltmeter read only 8 or so volts, but the battery is fresh and I even put it on a trickle charger overnight. I started testing some other electrical things, like the headlights, and tried to start it again. Remarkably, it actually did start.

It ran for about a minute. It smelled like it was running rich and perhaps vibrating. Then, it died. Subsequent attempts to restart it failed at first, but after a period of perhaps ten minutes it did start again, but only ran for a second before dying.

The SES light is on, as is the "Check Gauges" light. The airbag light came on a few times.

In poking around the engine bay I began to see that perhaps the car has a divided history. It might have been owned and cared for by someone who was careful at one point, and then at another point by someone less careful. The #5 plug boot was not on the plug at all. There is something like sticky blue gum or putty mushed onto newish looking Delco plug wires to keep them together. One end of the negative battery cable has frayed, broken strands and lots of green corrosion on the exposed copper, more than the below pic shows. There is electrical tape on a couple rubber hoses. Unwrapping one, I found a large split, so the tape was obviously to combat that. There is a vacuum line on the PS of the intake that is plugged by a screw, and one on the DS that I think goes to the Optispark that is plugged with a bolt. The plastic battery cable junction is not attached to the fender well. These point to a history, perhaps a recent one, of less than careful maintenance.

I have an OBD 2 scanner, but this car has an OBD 2 port w/OBD1 computer. My scanner will plug into it, but can't communicate with the vehicle. I know there are workarounds to this, but don't yet know the best solution. I would like to see what codes it is throwing.

The guy I bought it from did not tell me it would start and die, just that it wouldn't start/run at all, so I am glad to have heard the engine run. Why it runs as described above, I don't know. I have a full set of FSMs for the car that I will start going through. If you guys have ideas, I'm all ears.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v708/2ManyCars/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9059_zps302cbf1a.jpg?1394308636496

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v708/2ManyCars/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9060_zpsabee2792.jpg?1394308636497

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v708/2ManyCars/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9067_zps2784225f.jpg?1394308636496

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v708/2ManyCars/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9069_zps61c7fdfe.jpg?1394308636496

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v708/2ManyCars/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9061_zpsdf299d71.jpg?1394308636497

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v708/2ManyCars/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9062_zpsc6e5bef6.jpg?1394308636497

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v708/2ManyCars/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9063_zpse6a05ff4.jpg?1394308636497

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v708/2ManyCars/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9064_zps663782ec.jpg?1394308636497

This is the harness that the vac line on the DS that is plugged with a bolt goes to; I believe if I follow it it will go to the PS of the Opti.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v708/2ManyCars/100_9066_zps6f09b18e.jpg?1394308636497

95albinobird

03-08-2014, 03:21 PM

i got this it works to get the codes and has a cool dash screen when you use your laptop
http://www.ebay.com/itm/111122693329?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

Bull

03-08-2014, 03:38 PM

i got this it works to get the codes and has a cool dash screen when you use your laptop
http://www.ebay.com/itm/111122693329?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

Other than that disc and cable, what software did you need to download? My laptop is too old, but I do have an Android tablet.

95albinobird

03-08-2014, 03:54 PM

Other than that disc and cable, what software did you need to download? My laptop is too old, but I do have an Android tablet.
no software just a laptop if you look at the disc it works with from with every thing from xp thru win 8.the android app is not free i think it's like 29.99 and you still need that cable.1 thing for sure is is prolly the cheapest and most readily available way to scan a obd1 car with the obd2 ALDL.

Bull

03-08-2014, 04:06 PM

Oh, that's pretty cool. So if I borrow my wife's laptop and have that cable and disc, I should be good to go?

Injuneer

03-08-2014, 04:27 PM

There is a link on this site to a free download of software written specifically for 94/95 LT1 OBD-1 scanning. It was written by a member here (GaryDoug) who can help you with any download/install problems. The thread with the link also has info on cables, as low as $20.

95albinobird

03-08-2014, 04:46 PM

95albinobird

03-08-2014, 04:51 PM

can you put a link up to that thread?
ok i found it here

http://www.firebirdnation.com/forums/topic/450959-scan9495-free-scanning-software-for-9495-lt1-obd-1/

(http://www.firebirdnation.com/forums/topic/450959-scan9495-free-scanning-software-for-9495-lt1-obd-1/)http://www.mediafire...s#gonkz3785ph7o (http://www.mediafire.com/?0elo4c935uc5s#gonkz3785ph7o)
(http://www.firebirdnation.com/forums/topic/450959-scan9495-free-scanning-software-for-9495-lt1-obd-1/)

Bull

03-10-2014, 01:16 AM

I ordered that 16 pin ALDL to USB cable and CD just now. I also read the thread about Scan9495. I am working on cleaning up my wife's buggy laptop (but far less buggy than my ancient one) so I can download it and use it to see what's wrong with my poor car.

95albinobird

03-10-2014, 04:08 AM

Bull

03-10-2014, 07:42 PM

While you wait I would fix all the obvious problems.and hope you don't have the dreaded opti fail if the seal on the cap went bad and moisture got in or that vac line is off and moisture got in that way that's bad news the.optical sensor don't like water and if the wheel it reads gets corrosion on it the opti is done.. let's hope that's not the case

I'm going to order a silicone vacuum hose kit from eBay since I know the lines are old and some are cracked. But I feel like until I have the cable, I won't know in which direction to focus my troubleshooting. I was reading some threads recently that made me think to look into the VATS system, too, since people with VATS issues report cars that will start, run a bit, then die and not start again for some time. I've never used a program like Scan9495 befor. Am I wrong in thinking that it will allow me to zero in on the car's problems?

I can't figure the disconnected hose for the Opti. First, why would someone plug it? And second, where does it go? I have a properly plumbed LT1 in my Roadmaster. I recently replaced all the hoses after taking the top end of the engine apart. The hose that is unplugged on this Formula goes to a vac fitting on the DS, near the brake booster hose on the Roadmaster. But, there is no available fitting on the Formula. The one that the Opti vent should plug to is occupied by some tee fitting that has several vac lines coming off it, none of which I can identify.

Does anyone have a closeup picture of the DS of the intake on an F-body so I can see the vac fittings and what goes to them?

I do have the three volume FSM for this car and have started looking through it. I found a section on engine wiring that shows where all the harnesses go, but have not found a diagram of all the vacuum connections.

95albinobird

03-11-2014, 06:06 PM

http://shbox.com/1/opti_vacuum_harness.jpg

Bull

03-12-2014, 09:14 PM

I found that pic and a couple others from that glorious shbox fellow late last night. But the thing that continues to baffle me is that on the PS of the intake, there are no unused vacuum ports. The one the Opti hose SHOULD plug into is being used by some vacuum tee. That begs the question: why did someone plug the Opti hose and why is the port it should be hooked up to in use by some other stuff?

I got my ALDL cable today and used it and Scan9495 to do my first ever scan. It's pretty awesome, but I'd love to learn how to interpret and use all the numbers on the screen for voltages and readings. Also, the Scan9495 fellow needs to be compensated somehow for what he has done for the '94/'95 owners!

I had two DTCs: 16 and 42, both of which are in the ignition circuit and both of which will cut the fuel supply, hence my runs for a minute then dies issue. I will follow the diagnostic procedures in the FSM for each code and hopefully be able to pinpoint what is causing the codes.

Fastbird

03-12-2014, 09:21 PM

Bull I just made a lengthy reply on GJ to your concerns.

Fix that ground. First and foremost. Get a good clean corrosion and fraying free ground cable there. It needs it, that's a primary grounding point and will cause all kinds of funkiness.

After seeing that shoebox pic, it reminded me about the opti vac line for the induction. Yours may be that one contrary to what I said on GJ actually, thoug I'm not convinced 100%.

The vacuum port on the passenger side is most likely for the vacuum accumulator box for teh HVAC. The box is located under the headlights on the passenger side, bottom of the frame area. The vacuum line runs in teh wiring harness right up next to that port. If you open up the wiring harness there where that port is blocked off, you'll probably find the vacuum line hiding in it, maybe 3-6" back if it's been broken off/out of the harness.

Bull

03-12-2014, 09:46 PM

Fastbird, many thanks for your detailed replies!

I will absolutely start with a new negative battery cable, then. Do folks like yourself just use over the counter aftermarket replacements that are application specific, or do you find the best cable you can from a company like Taylor or whatever and add your own extra leads as required?

I will closely examine the vacuum lines to the Opti and the one that is plugged on the DS and report back tomorrow, unless it is raining and sleeting here as they predict. I was nearly certain the plugged line went into the harness with the other line for the Opti, the one from the intake elbow.

Thanks for the info on the HVAC vacuum. Why would anyone eliminate that?

And, let's say the plugged hose on the DS does turn out to be for the Opti. Why is the port on the DS of the manifold, that it would properly be attached to, in use by some splitter fitting with smaller lines on it? It just seems curious to me that someone eliminated Opti vacuum and assigned other lines to its vacuum port. Whatever those lines are would have their own stock fittings to plug into!

I'll try to document whatever I find upon closer inspection.

95albinobird

03-12-2014, 11:03 PM

I actually donate to shoebox...duz anyone else?

Bull

03-15-2014, 10:41 PM

I traced that vacuum line on the driver's side with the bolt plugging the end of it. It goes down into the flex conduit that carries the other vac line to the Opti, makes a u-turn, exits the conduit and enters a vacuum port on the DS of the manifold. It is indeed the line with the little blue/white "restrictors" or filters or whatever they are.

Why would anyone plug this instead of running it to the Opti?

95albinobird

03-15-2014, 11:31 PM

Injuneer

03-16-2014, 10:44 AM

The vacuum ports on the DS of the intake could have been screwed up if your car had the "AIR recall (95-97)" done on it. They installed a new vacuum solenoid as part of the recall, and were suppose to tee it into one of the lines on the DS. Shoebox has that info as well. See if this looks like what the existing vacuum line connects to:

http://shbox.com/1/air_pump_recall.jpg

The dealer may have just disconnected the Opti vent line and installed the line for the AIR vacuum solenoid - see lower right corner of diagram for these parts.

I did a vented Opti on my 94. The DS manifold vacuum connections are different 93/94, because the PCV valve vacuum connects to a port on that side of the manifold, not under the throttle body. I just put a "tee" in the DS line for the EGR vacuum solenoid, and connected the Opti vacuum line there. It's a full vacuum port, so it works OK,

Injuneer

03-16-2014, 10:54 AM

Shoebox also has a photo of the 95-97 DS vacuum connections:

http://shbox.com/1/opti_vacuum_conn.jpg

On the PS, there are 2 vacuum ports toward the rear of the manifold. One (lower) is for the vacuum compensation line for the fuel pressure regulator. The other (upper) one is for the HVAC as noted in a post above. The "tee" you see at that point is actually a vacuum check valve, to prevent the HVAC vacuum control system from losing vacuum when you go WOT. The check valve has one hose that goes into the passenger compartment to the HVAC panel, and another that goes forward to the vacuum canister in the passenger front fender near the horns.

http://shbox.com/1/vac_check_valve.jpg

Bull

03-16-2014, 08:17 PM

Thanks for that info, that's very helpful stuff! I'll compare what I have to these pictures and diagrams.

I pushed the car out of the way of the garage door last week so I could get my dad's truck out, which I finally fixed. Today my one car-buddy, who lives five hours away, was visiting. We pushed the Formula into the garage, which is slightly uphill and over some gravel. Good thing for muscle! Now I can finally start to do some actual work on the car; I'm too old for driveway stuff these days.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v708/2ManyCars/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9084_zpsa096b1af.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/2ManyCars/media/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9084_zpsa096b1af.jpg.html)

Fastbird

03-16-2014, 08:31 PM

Oh hey......nice Goat!

95albinobird

03-16-2014, 08:37 PM

Oh hey......nice Goat!
yeah that firebird must be his new beater.i would be spending all my time on that GTO

Bull

03-16-2014, 08:48 PM

Oh hey......nice Goat!

yeah that firebird must be his new beater.i would be spending all my time on that GTO

Hah! Thanks guys. My brother bought that car in the late '80s, got sick of it/moved and parked it at my grandprents' house (which is now my house). I was in high school at the time and fell in love with the car. I'd come and start it up every week and drive around in the field here. My mom helped me buy it from him in the spring of '94, my senior year of high school.

It's a decent driver, but no show car. The paint is from '95 or so, and I rebuilt the engine (now displaces 412 cubes) in the late '90s. It spends more time in my garage/on stands than it does being driven. I might be afraid to drive it, I'm not sure. Last time it was out was about 1.5 years ago. Currently it is on stands because it needs the rear drum brakes to be gone through. I've never done drums. I need to drop a couple hundred to get all the parts and git 'er dun for summer cruising, but am going to work on the Formula first.

Here is the car in the late spring/early summer of '12 after getting a sticker for the first time in about five years:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v708/2ManyCars/100_7567.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/2ManyCars/media/100_7567.jpg.html)

Fastbird

03-16-2014, 09:03 PM

Featherburner

03-17-2014, 04:36 PM

I prefer the 68 GTO but your 69 is very nice.

Bull

03-18-2014, 08:41 AM

Oh man, to have a car like that. I'm jealous. The rear drums aren't anything cosmic. Just be sure to grab a hardware kit when you do it as I'm sure the springs in there are all quite old. Shouldn't cost you more than a bill to get all the parts (shoes, drums, hardware kit) if you're big box storing it. I'd offer to come do them for you just so I could see the GTO up close, but I don't think that you're close enough for a day trip, lol.

Yeah, IN to MA is a haul! I have all the parts I need for the job in my Amazon cart at the moment. Once I get the Formula sorted out, I'll turn to the GTO (probably). I'm waiting on my new negative battery cable to arrive for the Formula. Local stores either had super-cheap crap cables, or had to order the good kind from as far away as Florida. This is why I like Amazon so much.

I prefer the 68 GTO but your 69 is very nice.

Is it the vent windows you like on the '68? That, a different valance, and different marker lights on the rear quarters are the most notable exterior differences I can think of at the moment.

Featherburner

03-18-2014, 10:24 AM

Is it the vent windows you like on the '68? That, a different valance, and different marker lights on the rear quarters are the most notable exterior differences I can think of at the moment.Yeah, the crank vent windows and I'm a fan of the 68 tail lights in the bumper. I spent many hours wrenching on my buddy's 68.

Bull

03-18-2014, 01:12 PM

Yeah, the crank vent windows and I'm a fan of the 68 tail lights in the bumper. I spent many hours wrenching on my buddy's 68.

Oh, that's right, I had forgotten the tails.

To be honest, I probably enjoyed driving my old '95 Formula the most of any car I have owned. The GTO is a great cruiser in the sense that it sounds aggressive, looks good, and gets lots of attention. But it's primitive. It would benefit from money (that I don't have) being invested into interior upgrades, suspension and steering parts etc.

Bull

03-21-2014, 07:16 PM

My vacation didn't pan out the way I'd hoped in terms of time for car projects. I also am so g-darn sick of the gray, cold weather that I was just not itching to spend much time in the barn doing anything. I have a torpedo out there, but it still isn't going to be in my comfort zone of 70 degrees.

Anyway, the front of the car is up on ramps, with stands positioned as backups in case of catastrophe.

I am often reminded of how jobs that should literally take five minutes become hassles. I just want to throw on a new negative battery cable. I got a nice, thick new one from Delco. It might even be old enough to have been made somewhere in North America; I don't know and can't find a COO stamp anywhere. Anyway, the stud for the accessory lead mounted on the PS fender well fought me. It had fused to the terminal of the accessory lead, so turning it turned the cable. Got that off and went under the car and located the other end of the negative cable where it grounds to the PS of the engine block down low. Same darn thing there. The bolt or stud or whatever it is that secures the end of the cable and also secures a metal bracket to route the positive cable seems fused to the terminal end. This makes the negative cable, positive cable and bracket all want to twist and prevents me from just backing the bolt out. In the few minutes I had to dink around I did not find a way to hold things in place (it's cramped under there) to keep everything but the bolt from moving. What a lame obstacle!

The good news is that the underside of the car really is in good condition for a car in this part of the country. My last Formula had all kinds of crust on the floors, control arms, axle, suspension, you name it. This car has very little of that. The ONLY rot I can see, and it is a large-ish area and does suck, is at a seam on the DS, up towards the front of the car. I'll have to pull the carpet and see what the deal is from that side, but the metal feels weak around the obviously rotten section. I have a welder, but can't weld. My brother might be getting good enough himself to teach me, though.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v708/2ManyCars/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9087_zpsef9e1b49.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/2ManyCars/media/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9087_zpsef9e1b49.jpg.html)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v708/2ManyCars/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9100_zps0bcf71ba.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/2ManyCars/media/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9100_zps0bcf71ba.jpg.html)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v708/2ManyCars/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9102_zps44b3df0b.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/2ManyCars/media/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9102_zps44b3df0b.jpg.html)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v708/2ManyCars/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9103_zpse74f1a36.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/2ManyCars/media/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9103_zpse74f1a36.jpg.html)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v708/2ManyCars/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9104_zpsf44bb7f6.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/2ManyCars/media/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9104_zpsf44bb7f6.jpg.html)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v708/2ManyCars/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9106_zpseeca2228.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/2ManyCars/media/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9106_zpseeca2228.jpg.html)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v708/2ManyCars/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9105_zps44af9d4f.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/2ManyCars/media/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9105_zps44af9d4f.jpg.html)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v708/2ManyCars/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9101_zpsf63ee12d.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/2ManyCars/media/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9101_zpsf63ee12d.jpg.html)

It also appears that the reason why one of the lines to the Opti is plugged with a bolt is because the PO installed an Opti with just one vacuum port, which I assume means an earlier non-vented version?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v708/2ManyCars/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9107_zps87e2fbe2.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/2ManyCars/media/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9107_zps87e2fbe2.jpg.html)

95albinobird

03-21-2014, 09:08 PM

SSlowBoat

03-21-2014, 09:52 PM

i have a similiar rust hole at a seam like that but at the base of the firewall on the passenger side. no big deal, theres a heatshield there to protect it lol. when the motor comes out again ill fix mine. nice ride man!

Bull

03-22-2014, 08:57 AM

no that is correct opti they have only 1 vac port.that hose was plugged because a dumb ass owned that car at some point:secret:.
and that undercarriage is super clean for where you live, that rust is totally fixable

Look at the pic you posted from shbox in post# 25; underneath and to the left of the vacuum line that goes to the intake elbow there is another line, whch goes to the manifold. I do not seem to have this connection on my Opti. The pic is dark, but I will crawl under there and confirm this today.

i have a similiar rust hole at a seam like that but at the base of the firewall on the passenger side. no big deal, theres a heatshield there to protect it lol. when the motor comes out again ill fix mine. nice ride man!

I know seams are a common problem area, but am wondering if there was some kind of leak inside the car that trapped moistre in the spot? For the underside to be so clean but to have this one rotted area is puzzling to me.

Bull

03-22-2014, 10:02 AM

FormulaJoe

03-22-2014, 04:42 PM

I didn't see if you mentioned it anywhere, but in that pic of your front suspension your tie rod looks pretty bent up. Maybe it's the pic but just a heads up.

95albinobird

03-23-2014, 02:57 AM

Yeah, I seem to have the type on the right, missing the vacuum port underneath the spark plug terminals. But wait, I DO have the metal port visible on the unit on the left. Do I have the metal part from a vented Opti and the cap from an unvented one? Someone make sense of this for me!

27787

But I didn't think you could just use a non-vented Opti on cars that came with the later style? I thought some stuff was different?
to run the unvented opti you must change the timing cover and the cam drive is diff and the unvent costs more money I just doubt you have the unvented unless the motor was changed maybe just the cap

Bull

03-23-2014, 07:26 PM

So, after some reading, thought, and talking to a fellow I know, I believe that the previous owner installed a non-vented cap on the vented Opti base. This is not good. The vacuum line from the air intake is bringing fresh air in to the unit. That air will certainly have moisture in it. The sparks inside the cap are creating ozone. Neither the moisture nor the ozone are going to have a way to get out since the eliminated vacuum line is the one that would pull that crap out of the unit. An unvented Opti base would actually have holes drilled in it to allow the unit to breathe a bit, but the vented base I have does not have these holes so by eliminating the "exhaust" line you are guaranteeing that the internals are going to be contaminated.

Whether this is responsible for the current codes and poor performance, it is certainly a bad setup. I believe the prudent thing to do is to pull the assembly to evaluate it.

Quality units are quite costly, but if I find this thing is junk I am going to consider going with the best replacement. I also might have access to some used but good parts; I will investigate that.

Bull

03-29-2014, 08:50 PM

I finally had a little bit of time to work on this after lunch today. I have the water pump out. If I can get another chunk of time, I'll pull the balancer and the Opti. I'm also going to be removing the AIR pump and associated components.

I'm quite eager to see what the Opti looks like inside.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v708/2ManyCars/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9114_zps544e5c8e.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/2ManyCars/media/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9114_zps544e5c8e.jpg.html)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v708/2ManyCars/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9115_zpsb81736da.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/2ManyCars/media/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9115_zpsb81736da.jpg.html)

This part is exclusively for the AIR pump, correct?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v708/2ManyCars/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9118_zpsfd2908fa.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/2ManyCars/media/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9118_zpsfd2908fa.jpg.html)

The area around the bottom of the timing cover looks very messy and gloopy. I want to wipe away the crap and see what is going on while I'm doing this.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v708/2ManyCars/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9117_zps0f86ce88.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/2ManyCars/media/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9117_zps0f86ce88.jpg.html)

popo8

03-30-2014, 12:28 AM

that goop looks like someones rtv silocone fix to an oil leak.... Be prepared to re do the gaskets if u remove that....to avoid more leaks .

LTXtech.com is my DRUG!

Formula218

03-30-2014, 05:54 AM

i had that same issue with my opti not having ports that it should have had, i never did figure it out. my vac manifold has two hoses and only one is hooked up, the other just tags along for the ride.

Bull

03-30-2014, 09:23 PM

that goop looks like someones rtv silocone fix to an oil leak.... Be prepared to re do the gaskets if u remove that....to avoid more leaks .

LTXtech.com is my DRUG!

That's what it looks like to my eyes, too. How nasty of a job is it to remove the cover and do the seals once the Opti is already off?

i had that same issue with my opti not having ports that it should have had, i never did figure it out. my vac manifold has two hoses and only one is hooked up, the other just tags along for the ride.

And yours has been running fine with improper venting? Even if my no-start issue is not because of the venting, I will feel better having it back to the way I know it should be.

Bull

04-02-2014, 06:55 PM

I had one hour to work on the car after I got home today. I got the Opti off, thanks in part to the balancer pulling off by hand; otherwise I was going to have to wait to get the right bolts to use with my puller.

The Opti looks like it hasn't been on the car that long. If you guys have comments about how it looks in there, I'd love to hear them. The terminal in the center, that the coil supplies, had some black shmutz on it, and the tang on the rotor also had this greasy shmutz. I can't imagine that wasn't having some negative effect. The rotor tang also has a crater in it; I assume this is not normal?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v708/2ManyCars/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9122_zpsa1fcceac.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/2ManyCars/media/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9122_zpsa1fcceac.jpg.html)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v708/2ManyCars/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9125_zpse2c11a70.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/2ManyCars/media/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9125_zpse2c11a70.jpg.html)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v708/2ManyCars/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9128_zpsbeeb81eb.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/2ManyCars/media/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9128_zpsbeeb81eb.jpg.html)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v708/2ManyCars/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9130_zps63c96908.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/2ManyCars/media/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9130_zps63c96908.jpg.html)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v708/2ManyCars/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9123_zpsc1d03ee5.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/2ManyCars/media/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9123_zpsc1d03ee5.jpg.html)

Some kind of "custom" clearancing here
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v708/2ManyCars/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9131_zps87a51f70.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/2ManyCars/media/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9131_zps87a51f70.jpg.html)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v708/2ManyCars/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9134_zps148248cd.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/2ManyCars/media/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9134_zps148248cd.jpg.html)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v708/2ManyCars/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9137_zps340e405f.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/2ManyCars/media/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9137_zps340e405f.jpg.html)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v708/2ManyCars/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9138_zpsa10acd65.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/2ManyCars/media/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9138_zpsa10acd65.jpg.html)

Sweet anti-leak measures. So, how much of a hassle is it to pull this cover, replace the seals, and button back up?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v708/2ManyCars/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9139_zpsac0b0a26.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/2ManyCars/media/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9139_zpsac0b0a26.jpg.html)

I started removing the AIR stuff. I screwed up by not holding the larger nut underneath the hex on this plug that I want to remove. The torque I applied ended up causing the hole tube that comes off the headers to move a bit, so I've probably broken the weld and caused a leak there. We'll find out.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v708/2ManyCars/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9140_zpsce05805a.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/2ManyCars/media/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9140_zpsce05805a.jpg.html)

It will be uglier, but I'll find a cap that has the same threads as this one and just put it on top of the tube assembly.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v708/2ManyCars/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9141_zps6a9c1946.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/2ManyCars/media/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9141_zps6a9c1946.jpg.html)

Formula218

04-02-2014, 09:17 PM

That's what it looks like to my eyes, too. How nasty of a job is it to remove the cover and do the seals once the Opti is already off?

And yours has been running fine with improper venting? Even if my no-start issue is not because of the venting, I will feel better having it back to the way I know it should be.

as long as it's dry out lol

95albinobird

04-03-2014, 02:46 AM

removing the A.I.R pump will make the ck eng light come on won't it?

someone plz correct me if I'm wrong

Bull

04-03-2014, 04:59 AM

removing the A.I.R pump will make the ck eng light come on won't it?

someone plz correct me if I'm wrong

Not on a '95, no.

Bull

04-07-2014, 10:33 PM

Well, after playing around with throwing on a cheap Opti unit to "get me by" for a while, or sourcing a new cap and rotor and a used GM base from a friend of mine, I decided to just suck it up and pay the $260 for a Delphi unit from Amazon. It should be here by mid-week along with some new gaskets for my water pump.

I am considering installing a new or used ICM since folks told me it might be a cause of the trouble I was having. But, if they are easy enough to access and swap then I will see what the Opti replacement does before throwing more money at the car. I also picked up a NOS factory harness for the Opti.

This week is busy, so maybe on the weekend I can make some progress with this.

Oh and yes, my tie rod is somehow bent. I looked at it and there is no doubt.

Fastbird

04-08-2014, 12:07 AM

ICM is very easy to get at. Wouldn't bother until all opti stuff is ruled out.

Posted from my LG G2

Bull

04-28-2014, 09:31 PM

I finally had enough time here and there to install a new Delphi opti and put the car engine back together. Along the way I installed a new negative battery cable, replaced the stud for that cable that threads into the block, replaced a few vacuum lines, installed a new opti harness and deleted the AIR pump.

I am feeling as though my timing might be off, and therefore that I inconceivably installed the opti incorrectly despite there only being "one way" it should be able to go on. The engine will crank over, but not well and acts as though the battery is struggling. The battery is new and shows 12.6 volts at rest. The engine will crank a bit, give a slight backfire, and then it won't move anymore for a moment.

When I installed the opti I was struggling to get the dowel on the cam to fit into the oddly-shaped hole on the cloverleaf. It did finally slip on and felt as if it had seated. I do not recall 100% for certain, but I did not think there was a gap between the opti mounting ears and the engine. It seemed to be mounted flush. But since the car cranked fine before, and now has this issue, I am guessing I screwed something up. So, time to pull the intake elbow, fans, hoses and water pump and opti and try again. Woohoo. At least I didn't fill it up with coolant yet.

popo8

04-28-2014, 09:50 PM

That sucks... Whenever we do an opti.. We fire the car before we even reinstall the wp... Just to avoid tearing it back down.

LTXtech.com is my DRUG!

Bull

05-04-2014, 01:08 PM

I'm going to need some help here. I do not feel confident that I had previously installed the Opti correctly. I took the front of the engine apart today to get to the Opti again, and I still cannot feel confident. I just am not convinced that I am getting that little "nub" on the camshaft to go into that one hole on the back of the Opti.

I am doing this with the cover of the Opti off so I can move the rotor easily.

I noticed that there is a hole on the Opti's shaft that corresponds to the rectangular hole on the back of the clover leaf. So, when I am under the car and fitting the Opti, I am observing this hole while I insert the shaft into the cam snout. I know that the shaft is being inserted such that the rectangular hole should end up meeting the dowel on the cam. I do need to finesse the rotor to get the Opti shaft to slide into the cam; it requires a little force, it's not like throwing a hot dog down a hallway or anything like that.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v708/2ManyCars/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9165_zps4a37093a.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/2ManyCars/media/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9165_zps4a37093a.jpg.html)

Once I perform the above operation, the Opti is as seated as well as I can get it. Two things bother me. First, the mounting ears for the Opti do not perfectly touch the block. I have read over and over that an Opti is not seated correctly if there is ANY space between the block and Opti mounts. Also, if I grab the rotor, I can still move it back and forth a bit. Should this be possible? It would seem that if that dowel on the cam really was seated in the rectangular hole on the clover leaf, then there would be no back and forth movement. Am I wrong about this?

Here is my cam dowel, pointing down towards the DS of the car.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v708/2ManyCars/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9168_zpsa154e4e7.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/2ManyCars/media/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9168_zpsa154e4e7.jpg.html)

Pics to show all three mounting points below, and a short video clip (please excuse quality) showing the rotor movement.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v708/2ManyCars/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9172_zps8723cf14.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/2ManyCars/media/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9172_zps8723cf14.jpg.html)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v708/2ManyCars/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9178_zps7780b7e6.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/2ManyCars/media/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9178_zps7780b7e6.jpg.html)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v708/2ManyCars/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9180_zpsda64ac49.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/2ManyCars/media/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9180_zpsda64ac49.jpg.html)

If I don't have the video posted correctly, please let me know. I have not posted a video on a forum before.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wVT2W-HiuX4&feature=youtu.be

JCzNova

05-04-2014, 01:17 PM

Those opti ears look close enough to the block to me. You will have some resistance to the o-rings seating in there.

I'm on Tapa so I didn't read back through the entire thread again today. Have you done the tests on the coil ans ICM?

Fastbird

05-04-2014, 01:29 PM

It looks on all the way, I've never had one go smack down to the timing cover.

Does that cam dowel look small to anyone? I swear it looks no higher than the cam bolts. With as much movement you're getting I'd anticipate that you're stopping against the cam bolts and not the opti dowel. If that's the case, then you could also be having running issues because timing would be off at that point too.

Bull

05-04-2014, 01:35 PM

I did not perform any ICM or coil tests. I knew the previous owner installed an incorrect and cheap Opti so knew I wanted it replaced. I figured I'd start with that.

The cam dowel does look to be about the height of the bolts. I understand there are two lengths of dowels, but do not recall offhand why. I know someone has been in this motor before, but how deeply I don't know. Maybe the cam isn't stock.

I uploaded the video to Youtube. Please let me know if you can see it as it shows how much the rotor is moving.

JCzNova

05-04-2014, 01:36 PM

It looked short to me too Sean, but it does look even with the top of the bolt heads which if the bolts bottomed out in the recess, the dowel would be in the hole.

Fastbird

05-04-2014, 02:09 PM

To me it looks shorter. I just mocked up my new cam, cam gear, bolts, and mine protruded past the bolt heads. Question is how far down does the opti actually sit in the timing cover on to the cam. I just don't see all that movement happening if the dowel pin was actually in the slot. I think it's too short to protrude into the slot, and he's actually running a retarded timing curve due to the cam bolts being the driving factor on the opti.
Bull -- Can you look at the opti drive mechanism and see if there's contact marks from the cam bolts or the opti dowel?

Bull

05-04-2014, 03:51 PM

@Bull (http://ltxtech.com/forums/member.php?u=1467) -- Can you look at the opti drive mechanism and see if there's contact marks from the cam bolts or the opti dowel?

When I looked at it today I couldn't see any marks, but it had only been on the car while I tried to turn the engine over ten or so times. I'm not sure how much would be made in terms of marks. When I am able to get out there again I will check again.

The old Opti would have had the same dowel pin to engage, and while the engine wasn't running properly it did not struggle to turn over or have an obvious timing issue as the car did when I installed the new unit.

Fastbird

05-04-2014, 05:53 PM

Did the old opti have as much rotor play when installed? May want to check that just to be sure things are equal.

Posted from my LG G2

SSlowBoat

05-04-2014, 06:33 PM

looking at the 96 block it looks short to me, ill grab a pic after dinner

edit*: just looked, cam dowel protrudes to the back edge of the timing cover hole on my 95 block. hard to get a pic because it doesnt have a timing gear, but if i recall my 96 it protrudes beyond the heads of the bolts. my 94 it is flush or a hair past the bolts.

SSlowBoat

05-04-2014, 08:11 PM

28603

96 block with same opti as you, pin protrudes past head of bolts, and there is nowhere near as much play as you have when a opti is slipped on. somethings up bro

Bull

05-04-2014, 09:18 PM

Thank you for the picture. When I get back out there I am going to eyeball that dowel and see for sure whether it is as short as it looks in my pic.

I wonder if someone did a cam swap, and if so, why the dowel is shorter? Are they removable? The picture on this page makes it seem like they are.

http://www.superchevy.com/technical/engines_drivetrain/completebuilds_testing/sucp_0008_chevy_lt1_engine_build/photo_51.html

Fastbird

05-04-2014, 09:38 PM

Yes, they're pressed in. Its actually pretty common for people to drive them in a little so they don't bottom out on the opti drive (that'll kill an opti real quick).

Posted from my LG G2

Bull

05-17-2014, 11:06 PM

I hope I live long enough to enjoy my older age when I might have some time to work on projects. I'm lucky now to get a few minutes at a time.

Something weird is going on and I haven't figured it out. Yes, my dowel pin looks short. However, if I install the old opti base back on, it very easily slips into place, likely because the seals are worn whereas on the new unit it takes some firm pressure to get the unit to seat. The old unit also sits perfectly flush with the timing cover. Now, when the old opti is installed I can grab the rotor and try to move it back and forth and there is essentially no play. This suggests to me that the dowel is in the correct hole.

With the new unit it never sits perfectly flush and no matter what I do I can still grab the rotor and get that back and forth movement like my video shows. This suggests to me that the dowel is not in the correct hole.

So far, it doesn't make sense to me.

Fastbird

05-18-2014, 01:46 AM

What are the manufacturers of the old and new opti? Could simply boil down to manufacturer issues.

Posted from my LG G2

Bull

05-18-2014, 07:05 AM

What are the manufacturers of the old and new opti? Could simply boil down to manufacturer issues.

The new one is a Delphi; I am not sure what brand the old one is. I haven't noticed any markings. I believe it is an eBay cheapie.

Bull

05-24-2014, 08:52 PM

Thankfully as the school year is winding down, and because of the long weekend, I had some time today to mess with the car for more than ten minutes.

I tried several more times for good measure to get the new Opti base to seat properly. No way was it happening. So, I decided to determine if the cam dowel really was too short. I took some gray putty and stuffed it into the hole on the back of the distributor that the dowel goes into. I did this on both the old and new Optis, then fit them. The old unit does, for whatever reason, sit tighter against the timing cover and therefore better engages the dowel. However, the putty clearly showed me that in neither case was the dowel penetrating that hole more than a tiny fraction of an inch.

I had read that the dowels are installed really tight, so had little hope for an easy solution. But, I was able to get a wide pair of vise grips on the dowel and pull/twist (not even that hard; I'd say "moderate" force was applied) and the dowel moved outward. It now sits clearly above the level of the bolts next to it.

I installed the new Opti and sure as shoot, it sits tight and there is zero play when I grab the rotor and try to turn it. I have confidence that the car will start when I put it back together, hopefully tomorrow.

This is the new length of the dowel. Hopefully it's not too far out; I don't believe it is.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v708/2ManyCars/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9181_zpsf061753a.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/2ManyCars/media/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9181_zpsf061753a.jpg.html)

Mark showing how little the dowel was pushing against the putty in the hole on the new distributor.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v708/2ManyCars/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9183_zpsb63cf26b.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/2ManyCars/media/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9183_zpsb63cf26b.jpg.html)

Old distributor (sorry for blur).
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v708/2ManyCars/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9184_zps8823ada3.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/2ManyCars/media/1995%20Formula%20Black/100_9184_zps8823ada3.jpg.html)

Fastbird

05-24-2014, 09:46 PM

Well, color me very surprised that you actually extracted the dowel some! Nicely done. Hopefully this fixes it up.

Posted from my LG G2

Bull

05-25-2014, 10:38 PM

Well, color me very surprised that you actually extracted the dowel some! Nicely done. Hopefully this fixes it up.

I was surprised too!

The Opti is on and everything is hooked back up, but the car is doing odd things.

I was getting a very small spark at the negative terminal upon connecting it to the battery. I was also hearing a light "clicking" sound while doing this. This clicking would continue randomly while the battery was connected despite the fact that the key was out of the ignition.

Trying to start the car, I will only get a click; the engine will not turn over. Oddly, while the dash lights all come on initially, they sometimes all go out after turning the key and trying to start the car.

I decided to check the connections at the starter. I removed the positive cable, cleaned it, and also lightly cleaned the terminal for the purple wire which I think goes to the ignition.

Directly following that upon trying to reconnect the battery, things have changed. I now get a very aggressive spark as soon as I try to connect the negative cable. Because of this large spark I have not even been able to connect that cable to see if the car will start; something is clearly wrong.

I know that GMs have lots of trouble with the tiny wires for the ignition cylinder in the column. Might a faulty cylinder or switch be causing this? With the key out and ignition off, I see no other reason for the starter solenoid to be clicking. I should add that the cylinder has been difficult to turn in order to get the key out recently.

Thanks for any help. Oh, and the battery is brand new and shows 12.59 volts.

Fastbird

05-26-2014, 12:25 AM

Hmmm.........what all have you taken apart, because correct me if I'm wrong, this was running prior to tear down for the opti right?

Bull

05-26-2014, 07:04 AM

It would start sometimes, run rough, and die quickly. Codes indicated ignition system issues.

I removed all that was necessary to get to the Opti. I deleted the AIR pump. I replaced the negative battery cable and the stud for it at the lower front PS of the block. I believe this is all I've done.

Bull

05-26-2014, 09:52 PM

I started at the battery and traced everything back to the starter, focusing on what I had touched. At the starter, I found that the battery + cable end was either touching or nearly touching the terminal with the purple wire on it. There is a "leg" of sorts on the battery cable end that sticks out at an angle. It's designed to catch on something to keep the connector from spinning as you tighten the nut. This "leg" was very close to that terminal with the purple wire. I repositioned it and the car started right up!

On the other hand, when I first filled up my cooling system I saw a rather steady stream of water coming out of the weep hole on the bottom of my water pump, right onto the brand new Opti. I'm ready to pull everything apart again to put on a new pump, but now the leak has stopped.

Is that even possible?

Fastbird

05-26-2014, 10:35 PM

Bull

05-26-2014, 10:43 PM

Great that you got the electrical bug figured and she fired up. As for the water pump.......not sure that's possible. Only thing I could think of is if somehow there was water leaking from above and it was dripping at the weep hole or something.

So far, I'm perplexed about the drip. I was under there with a flashlight (the front of the car was up on ramps) watching that weep hole. Water was most certainly coming out of it after I filled the system. But checking later, it seemed not to be dripping. I'll keep an eye on it.

Also, despite totally filling the radiator and overflow, and bleeding air via the bleeder, my "low coolant" light on the dash remains illuminated. What's that about?

Fastbird

05-26-2014, 10:49 PM

Those sensors are known to go out. Notorious for it actually. I believe if you simply unplug it the light will go out (after verifying proper coolant level obviously).

Bull

06-05-2014, 07:04 PM

The SLP exhaust is rattling like crazy so must be hitting something.

On these cars, is it possible to get the over-the-axle pipe out of the car without pulling the axle? It's a long piece, from the cat to the exhaust tips; it's been clamped together with crush clamps (I can't stand them for this reason) so can't be made shorter.

I'm going to replace the tie rods, fix this rattle, and figure out the wheel/tire situation then put it on the road.

Bull

08-20-2015, 11:14 PM

I said I was going to do this work over a year ago! Life happened...again. :face_shocked:

The car has been sitting outside for a while, doing nothing. But, I got my GTO off jack stands and on the road on Monday, which freed up a garage bay. Pulled the Formula in. It needs tie rods, tires, wheel repair, and hopefully that's it for now.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v708/2ManyCars/1995%20Formula%20Black/0820151557d_zpsy0rvqlcx.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/2ManyCars/media/1995%20Formula%20Black/0820151557d_zpsy0rvqlcx.jpg.html)

How the heck does an inner tie rod get this bent??
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v708/2ManyCars/1995%20Formula%20Black/0820151556_zpszwin9lw3.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/2ManyCars/media/1995%20Formula%20Black/0820151556_zpszwin9lw3.jpg.html)

My whole place is a mess, but whatever!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v708/2ManyCars/1995%20Formula%20Black/0820151557_zpsycstj1qc.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/2ManyCars/media/1995%20Formula%20Black/0820151557_zpsycstj1qc.jpg.html)