Tricks to lower ET at the track

[BL96TA]

Hey there guys. I'm looking for ways to lower my ET times at the track and not by adding new mods but by methods or tricks used at the track. I last ran my car unaltered and the next time out I'll hyper inflate my front tires, remove my bumper support and front sway bar. I'm looking into a lightweight battery to help shed some pounds aswell Are there anymore tricks used at the track to lower ets?

[Blackbird96WS6]

Practicing for a good launch and knowing when to shift (if you're an M6).

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Xparent Red Tapatalk 2

[noice]

Your staging technique must be consistent. Shallow stage for a better roll out and a better et and MPH. More pressure in the front tires will get you more roll out and a running start. Not that it applies to you, but I can run up to a 3in stagger on my front struts to get an insane roll out.

[SMok3 Em A11]

Ok someone explain "roll out" and how it works please. Sorry but I gotta learn somehow and usually dumb questions are the best way to do so lol.

avid member of LTxtech.com for lt1/lt4 enthusiast...&
HRFbody.com for F body fanatics in the Hampton Roads Virginia area!!

[Blackbird96WS6]

I believe he's talking about the weight transfer to the rear by getting the front struts to maintain the front end up longer, putting more weight on the rear tires for a better hook. Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong though lol.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Xparent Red Tapatalk 2

[Chopstix]

roll out is the amount of time it takes for you to break the stage beam and start the ET clock

[SMok3 Em A11]

So theoretically putting more pressure in the tires and hardening/raising front suspension told be leaning the car backwards a little putting more weight on the rear?

avid member of LTxtech.com for lt1/lt4 enthusiast...&
HRFbody.com for F body fanatics in the Hampton Roads Virginia area!!

[noice]

The more roll out you have the larger the running start you have before you leave the beams. This will affect your reaction times since any deviation on your staging technique will make you red light.

[BL96TA]

From what I was told hyper inflated fronts reduce the tires contact patch which reduces friction and force required to roll them.
Noice, can you explain a shallow stage please.

also does icing the intake really help? I've even heard that stuffing the radiator with ice helps to but I wasn't sure if that was a real trick or if someone was messing with me.

[noice]

23304

Roll out is total amount your car can move before uncovering the beams. The beams are 3.5 inches off the ground and 9.5-10 inches apart.

If you pull the wheels high at the line you will not have to worry about roll out as the shortest distance out of the beams is up.

The "fastest" way out of the beams is to drive through them because you can get a running start before the green comes on. You can only do this if you shallow stage. This hurts your reaction time if you are pro tree racing so some people will stage deeper.

What i said before about higher tire pressure is actually backwards. Lower tire pressure will expose a longer section of tire to the beams, slowing reaction time and helping et.

[firebird_1995]

Good stuff. I got a lot to learn

[SMok3 Em A11]

What book is that you took the pictures from? I need that book lol.

avid member of LTxtech.com for lt1/lt4 enthusiast...&
HRFbody.com for F body fanatics in the Hampton Roads Virginia area!!

[dawdaw]

Good stuff. I got a lot to learn

Chris you just need seat time in the car, get the tuning dialed in and get your suspension working. At least your nit running semi truck air pressure in the tires now lol. Get some et streets out back on.her too. Every car is gonna have bugs, just got to.work them out. Nice meeting you and nice ride:)

[firebird_1995]

Thanks man. LOL yea that was insane air pressure, I know zero about that stuff. Initially set out to build a street car just to putt around in but that was seriously fun.

[noice]

23308

Only book i know of that teaches everything.

[ZOHAN]

Nice. Ill be calling barnes and noble for that one. Haha

Making you silky smooth...

[firebird_1995]

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000CIQ7UM/ref=pd_aw_sbs_1?pi=SS115

[OVA1]

Hey there guys. I'm looking for ways to lower my ET times at the track …?



:) V-TEC! :cool:

[joelster]

Nice. Ill be calling barnes and noble for that one. Haha

Making you silky smooth...

He does seminars all over the country. I went to a 2-day course. Money well spent.

Some easy things you can do to go faster.....

1. Run less oil. Don't go too crazy but if you have it right up to the "full" mark, that is typically 1- 1.5 quarts too much.
2. Run thinner oil. I ran 0w20 in my stock shortblock engine. The oil pressure was good, and thinner oil drains back to the bottom faster. The thinner the oil the less hp the oil pump takes to spin. I wouldn't recommend this to guys whose LT1's have low oil pressure, some LT1's are notorious for low pressure.
3. Practice loading your converter on the starting line to different rpm's. Some cars will respond better by launching from a low rpm and flashing the converter on the green. Other cars will respond better by taking the car up as high as it will go while holding it with the brake. You wont know until you try it. With my 350 combo and 5200rpm converter it liked to be taken to around 3500rpm foot braking it, then launching. It didn't feel as hard/violent as it did when launching from a lower rpm, but the ET was always better.
4. Write down the water temp that you ran at onto your timeslip. You will find a sweet spot where the motor makes the most power.
5. Always run 93 octane fuel, or the highest that you can get.
6. When you do your burnout, always run it out about 20 feet. As you go through the water remember that your front tires also went through the water, and when you stop to do your burnout, the water from the fronts will form a tiny puddle. You want to do your burnout and carry the spinning tire right through that puddle. Too many times you see guys simply stop their burnout and then just roll up.
7. Get weight out wherever you can.
8. Simple ram air tubing routed through the fog light openings is worth some power, especially on a 1/4 mile track.
9. A bag of ice on top of the intake is a good idea, but put a towel down under it so you don't have water dripping everywhere.

[firebird_1995]

Great stuff!!

[Mystery Bird]

Manual fan switch to help control the engine temps you want. Cheap and easy to make yourself.
Don't do your burnout in the water box, get them wet with a quick one or two rotation spin and pull ahead a bit to finish burnout, let off brakes and continue to burn up to line like joelster said. Also, no dry hops.
Make sure front end is aligned.
Fix dragging brake calipers.
Be sure rear axles or rims aren't bent.

[OVA1]

He does seminars all over the country. I went to a 2-day course. Money well spent.

Some easy things you can do to go faster.....

1. Run less oil. Don't go too crazy but if you have it right up to the "full" mark, that is typically 1- 1.5 quarts too much.
2. Run thinner oil. I ran 0w20 in my stock shortblock engine. The oil pressure was good, and thinner oil drains back to the bottom faster. The thinner the oil the less hp the oil pump takes to spin. I wouldn't recommend this to guys whose LT1's have low oil pressure, some LT1's are notorious for low pressure.
3. Practice loading your converter on the starting line to different rpm's. Some cars will respond better by launching from a low rpm and flashing the converter on the green. Other cars will respond better by taking the car up as high as it will go while holding it with the brake. You wont know until you try it. With my 350 combo and 5200rpm converter it liked to be taken to around 3500rpm foot braking it, then launching. It didn't feel as hard/violent as it did when launching from a lower rpm, but the ET was always better.
4. Write down the water temp that you ran at onto your timeslip. You will find a sweet spot where the motor makes the most power.
5. Always run 93 octane fuel, or the highest that you can get.
6. When you do your burnout, always run it out about 20 feet. As you go through the water remember that your front tires also went through the water, and when you stop to do your burnout, the water from the fronts will form a tiny puddle. You want to do your burnout and carry the spinning tire right through that puddle. Too many times you see guys simply stop their burnout and then just roll up.
7. Get weight out wherever you can.
8. Simple ram air tubing routed through the fog light openings is worth some power, especially on a 1/4 mile track.
9. A bag of ice on top of the intake is a good idea, but put a towel down under it so you don't have water dripping everywhere.

'
Good stuff…