questions about boosting an LT1

[englundjd]

Alright, so I have been thinking about my next build which I hope to start this winter. I am going to build cam/Boost 355 lt1 and I am shooting for 7xx rwhp on E85. This car is about 90% street car, I only go to the track once in a while so it will most likely be on low boost most of the time. This is a long term build so budget isnt so important.

I have some questions about the build.

Is 700rwhp a pipe dream for stock heads? If so I can add ported heads to the list down the road.

I will be using forged pistons, H-beam forged rods, and I will have my mains splayed. I hear how strong the stock crank is quite often, is it strong enough to run or would it be better to spend the cash for a forged unit?

What compression ratio should I be shooting for?

I am going to run a twin fuel pump system from Lonnies Performance (http://www.lonniesperformance.com/fbodyfuelsystems.htm), will the twin 255lph pumps handle that much horsepower running E85? What size of Injectors should I be looking at?


still trying to deside to supercharge or turbo it... what do you guys think I should do? either way is fine with me, just looking for ideas in this area. My understanding of superchargers is more extensive then turbo setups.

[MeanTA]

9:1 compression
You will need heads that will flow to support it .
E85 will need like 30% more flow then regular gas.
Go forged crank.
700 on say a 355 will take boost amd rpm. Your power numbers will come in later then a 383
700 is doable. But it does take some coin to make boost.

[94Blackbird]

9:1 compression
You will need heads that will flow to support it .
E85 will need like 30% more flow then regular gas.
Go forged crank.
700 on say a 355 will take boost amd rpm. Your power numbers will come in later then a 383
700 is doable. But it does take some coin to make boost.

You'd be leaving power and throttle response on the table at 9:1 on e85. Thing to remember is that ethanol is an alcohol, so it will behave differently than gas, namely that it is more resistant to detonation and it keeps air temps down. That coupled with our reverse flow cooling will keep things plenty settled temp wise. I'm planning on somewhere between 10.5 to 11:1 compression for my corn fed twin turbo 383 on 15lbs.

[englundjd]

thank you guys for the responses. i was thinking around 10:1 compression, I wonder what kind of boost pressures it would take to make 7xx rwhp. I have been looking at AI 200cc heads for quite a while i'll add them to the list, as well as a cam.

[MeanTA]

You'd be leaving power and throttle response on the table at 9:1 on e85. Thing to remember is that ethanol is an alcohol, so it will behave differently than gas, namely that it is more resistant to detonation and it keeps air temps down. That coupled with our reverse flow cooling will keep things plenty settled temp wise. I'm planning on somewhere between 10.5 to 11:1 compression for my corn fed twin turbo 383 on 15lbs.
Didn't finish my thought on that post. Wanted to say if he had access to 93:)

thank you guys for the responses. i was thinking around 10:1 compression, I wonder what kind of boost pressures it would take to make 7xx rwhp. I have been looking at AI 200cc heads for quite a while i'll add them to the list, as well as a cam.

It depends on your combo. Like displacement, heads, cam, trans. With the right component's you can hit it around 16 pounds. Through a M6


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[englundjd]

any piston and piston ring suggestions?

[CamaroZGuy]

thank you guys for the responses. i was thinking around 10:1 compression, I wonder what kind of boost pressures it would take to make 7xx rwhp. I have been looking at AI 200cc heads for quite a while i'll add them to the list, as well as a cam.

10:1 is what i was shooting for, but after some unforeseen work needing to be to the heads i'm right around 9.8:1, setting up for 91 octane with meth/water, and FMIC. and get a cam ground for your setup.

i highly suggest looking at the "real cost of F/I thread" and the "LTx Boosted List"

http://ltxtech.com/forums/showthread.php?10590-The-REAL-cost-of-Forced-Induction-NOT-for-the-faint-of-hear

t (http://ltxtech.com/forums/showthread.php?10590-The-REAL-cost-of-Forced-Induction-NOT-for-the-faint-of-heart)http://ltxtech.com/forums/showthread.php?7069-LTXtech-Boosted-List

it is NOT cheap at all

[popo8]

10:1 is what i was shooting for, but after some unforeseen work needing to be to the heads i'm right around 9.8:1, setting up for 91 octane with meth/water, and FMIC. and get a cam ground for your setup.

i highly suggest looking at the "real cost of F/I thread" and the "LTx Boosted List"

http://ltxtech.com/forums/showthread.php?10590-The-REAL-cost-of-Forced-Induction-NOT-for-the-faint-of-hear

t (http://ltxtech.com/forums/showthread.php?10590-The-REAL-cost-of-Forced-Induction-NOT-for-the-faint-of-heart)http://ltxtech.com/forums/showthread.php?7069-LTXtech-Boosted-List

it is NOT cheap at all


AMEN......

[ZOHAN]

Custom cam for your exact setup is best. I'm getting a bullet cam. Guy doing my heads is getting it for me, he has one on his TT LS, and convinced me of the bullet over anything else. His car made power that nobody saw coming, so he's doing my heads, his guy is doing my cam, and his guy doing my motor. Hopefully I can surprise some people too. Haha.

Making you silky smooth...

[englundjd]

Thank you for the links, ive seen the cost thread before. I know this stuff is not cheap but this is a long term build and im not married, no kids ect... I can put away quite a chunk of change in a decent amount of time.

Thanks for the second link, it kind of put this build into prospective for me. Seems I will need 70-80# injectors and between 15 and 20psi to get around 700 rwhp. Can you get that much boost out of a procharger or should I be looking at a turbo setup?

[popo8]

Thank you for the links, ive seen the cost thread before. I know this stuff is not cheap but this is a long term build and im not married, no kids ect... I can put away quite a chunk of change in a decent amount of time.

Thanks for the second link, it kind of put this build into prospective for me. Seems I will need 70-80# injectors and between 15 and 20psi to get around 700 rwhp. Can you get that much boost out of a procharger or should I be looking at a turbo setup?

WHich procharger are you looking for. There are some BIG PCs out there.


I spin a P1SC to just shy of 12 lbs of boost.... and make 602 out of a 385....

Remember boost is a measurement of restriction.. the better your heads..the less boost you will "SEE" but that could just be more efficient use of the AIR.

[shownomercy]

Dyno numbers are cool to impress dumb people, otherwise take it racing.

That being said, I am gonna see how far I can push max ported stock castings this fall.

[englundjd]

I am probably going to get the D1-SC it maybe overkill but ill be able to grow into it. I do plan to race the car once in a while.

[popo8]

Dyno numbers are cool to impress dumb people, otherwise take it racing.

That being said, I am gonna see how far I can push max ported stock castings this fall.

Unless u don't wanna race... Then u DONT have to... Lol

Just an LTXtech addict

[englundjd]

Popo8: would there be any issues I would run into running a D1SC? I was hoping I could use that one and have plenty of room to grow in the future.

[popo8]

Popo8: would there be any issues I would run into running a D1SC? I was hoping I could use that one and have plenty of room to grow in the future.


Im far from an expert but ill tell u what i know and have heard. Ive heard the p1 is to small...but at jist shy of 12 lbs i make 602...idk how close it is to maxed...but i hear the d1 has more room to grow. ALL based on its internals because the housing is the same as the P1...

We HAD a member on here whose car was recently being tuned on... Claiming to be nearing the 700 mark but no.final numbers have been given.

I think if u have never been in a 700 hp boosted car...bum or beg for a ride... My 600...scares me...lol

MEMBER @ LTXtech.com

[1fstss]

the p1sc with a 7.62 crank pulley is maxed out with a 3.4 pulley on a LT1 setup (i had a P1SC before my F1A) it will make plenty of power but i personally would go right to the D1SC.

[popo8]

the p1sc with a 7.62 crank pulley is maxed out with a 3.4 pulley on a LT1 setup (i had a P1SC before my F1A) it will make plenty of power but i personally would go right to the D1SC.

Hmmmm... Im still running the 3.55 pulley. :)

MEMBER @ LTXtech.com

[englundjd]

well unfortunatly I dont know anyone around my area with a boosted 500+ rwhp car, there is a 2v 4.6L turbo mustang but he isnt boosting very high at all... But regardless of that thank you for the advice.

At street weight what do you guys think a 700rwhp stalled A4/A3 camaro would run in the 1/4 with a slick? My guess would be that i would melt something like the nt05 or e/t streets

[englundjd]

also i've got a built trans from a local guy, he is a very good with the 700r4/4l60 but he doesnt build them to handle much over 600 crank hp, a Yank ss stall, and stock 10 bolt with 3.73's. So with that said, i'm on borrowed time as soon as this engine goes in my car if it even handles the first pull lol.

I would like to keep my overdrive trans if at all possible... i've been looking at RPM transmissions lvl7 4L60 and performabuilt lvl 3 4L60. what do you guys think?

And another thing, would I need to do anything special to the engine block to keep this thing alive?

[popo8]

well unfortunatly I dont know anyone around my area with a boosted 500+ rwhp car, there is a 2v 4.6L turbo mustang but he isnt boosting very high at all... But regardless of that thank you for the advice.

At street weight what do you guys think a 700rwhp stalled A4/A3 camaro would run in the 1/4 with a slick? My guess would be that i would melt something like the nt05 or e/t streets

Quarter mile times are going to depend on ur ability to 60' it...and ur suspension as well. My car makes 602...but with my susp...Id be lucky to see 11s.

We had a member on here making 614 on his old set up..and thru his 6spd...he pulled mid to low 11s...his susp is also not 1/4 mile friendly.

Pat Burton has a 500hp boosted 383 (iirc) turning 9s...because he is set up RIGHT.

MEMBER @ LTXtech.com

[popo8]

also i've got a built trans from a local guy, he is a very good with the 700r4/4l60 but he doesnt build them to handle much over 600 crank hp, a Yank ss stall, and stock 10 bolt with 3.73's. So with that said, i'm on borrowed time as soon as this engine goes in my car if it even handles the first pull lol.

I would like to keep my overdrive trans if at all possible... i've been looking at RPM transmissions lvl7 4L60 and performabuilt lvl 3 4L60. what do you guys think?

We had a sponsor on here that I know could build a quality trans...

MEMBER @ LTXtech.com

[94Blackbird]

You could also look into a 80e swap, from what I've heard from other guys they are a super beefy trans right out of the box.

[englundjd]

i thought about an 80e swap and i might do it, its not out of the question yet

[tt383lt1]

th400. the 80e converter cost more and some of my buddies are having issues at about 950 rwhp with the 80e. i got told that a th400 with a gear vender will be more reliable. and why not turbo it? alot cheaper than a supercharger. and mine made 750 rwhp on 14 psi and mine is street driven. i also have 28-13.5-15 et street and it dont melt them that good

[shownomercy]

th400. the 80e converter cost more and some of my buddies are having issues at about 950 rwhp with the 80e. i got told that a th400 with a gear vender will be more reliable. and why not turbo it? alot cheaper than a supercharger. and mine made 750 rwhp on 14 psi and mine is street driven. i also have 28-13.5-15 et street and it dont melt them that good

He said ~700 hp which is well within comfort ranges of 80e's, mine is the lowest rated on at 750hp warrantied... street car would get the 80e nod from me for sure.

[englundjd]

well, im not really up on turbos like i am on superchargers. That and (maybe im wrong) turbos create more heat and take more accessories to make them reliable?

[popo8]

Sc also requires less fabrication... (exhaust)



MEMBER @ LTXtech.com

[englundjd]

yea that to lol

[englundjd]

He said ~700 hp which is well within comfort ranges of 80e's, mine is the lowest rated on at 750hp warrantied... street car would get the 80e nod from me for sure.

I did some more digging and from what I see if i can install a supercharger the 80e will be a cake walk lol

[shownomercy]

A supercharger you bolt on, the 80e will be more tricky as it requires wiring etc.

There is a reason you see more supercharged cars than turbo cars.

[ZOHAN]

Cause people are afraid of turbo powa. Not meh says I. ;)

Making you silky smooth...

[BIG CAT]

Thank you for the links, ive seen the cost thread before. I know this stuff is not cheap but this is a long term build and im not married, no kids ect... I can put away quite a chunk of change in a decent amount of time.

Thanks for the second link, it kind of put this build into prospective for me. Seems I will need 70-80# injectors and between 15 and 20psi to get around 700 rwhp. Can you get that much boost out of a procharger or should I be looking at a turbo setup?

Go turbo. Sc are nice and cheaper but the turbo offer more and easier adjustments. 80lb injectors are not going to cut it. Better look for something in the 160 range with that much rwhp on e85.

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk 2

[popo8]

Do u want to keep ur AC?

MEMBER @ LTXtech.com

[englundjd]

Go turbo. Sc are nice and cheaper but the turbo offer more and easier adjustments. 80lb injectors are not going to cut it. Better look for something in the 160 range with that much rwhp on e85.

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk 2


Thank you for the info, i should have figured in the fact that it takes more e85 to run compared to pump gas.


My A/C system currently doesnt work and i'm just planning on deleting it. also going to run a tubular k-member for clearance and weight


As far as wiring the 4l80e goes i think i'm set on that part of it.

[englundjd]

Go turbo. Sc are nice and cheaper but the turbo offer more and easier adjustments. 80lb injectors are not going to cut it. Better look for something in the 160 range with that much rwhp on e85.

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk 2


Also do you think that the twin 255 fuel pumps will cut it?

[shownomercy]

Also do you think that the twin 255 fuel pumps will cut it?

It would not make me feel cozy running twin 255s on E85 and shooting for ~700 area.

[dawdaw]

It would not make me feel cozy running twin 255s on E85 and shooting for ~700 area.

x2. plus 255 wallys are not compatible with high ethanol fuels. yes they will live some time, depends on a lot of things. but walbro makes like a 400 something lph carbon internal pump designed for ethanol. two of them and I would feel comfortable.

[englundjd]

x2. plus 255 wallys are not compatible with high ethanol fuels. yes they will live some time, depends on a lot of things. but walbro makes like a 400 something lph carbon internal pump designed for ethanol. two of them and I would feel comfortable.


googled it and found (http://www.full-race.com/store/fuel-systems/fuel-pumps/walbro-416-lph-in-tank-e85-fuel-pump.html) them pretty quickly there a 416lph in-tank pump designed to be used with flex fuels. Are these pumps designed to be used in an f-body tho? there a different style of pump then the 255lph pumps

[shownomercy]

googled it and found (http://www.full-race.com/store/fuel-systems/fuel-pumps/walbro-416-lph-in-tank-e85-fuel-pump.html) them pretty quickly there a 416lph in-tank pump designed to be used with flex fuels. Are these pumps designed to be used in an f-body tho? there a different style of pump then the 255lph pumps

Hate to be negative here, but to be rather blunt... you need to read around more.

The 700hp, E85, turbo club you want to join ... assume from the get go NOTHING will function as stock did and nothing with just bolt right up. Expect and plan for a lot of custom work to get stuff to all work together.

[BIG CAT]

Thank you for the info, i should have figured in the fact that it takes more e85 to run compared to pump gas.


My A/C system currently doesnt work and i'm just planning on deleting it. also going to run a tubular k-member for clearance and weight


As far as wiring the 4l80e goes i think i'm set on that part of it.

as the other have said. twin 255 is a no go. e85 take roughly 30% more fuel volume than gas.

[englundjd]

Hate to be negative here, but to be rather blunt... you need to read around more.

The 700hp, E85, turbo club you want to join ... assume from the get go NOTHING will function as stock did and nothing with just bolt right up. Expect and plan for a lot of custom work to get stuff to all work together.

Yes i didnt figure that things would just bolt in and go, I guess its kinda a dumb question but hey if someone said yes they bolt right in well the hell ya. lol

BIG CAT, I had a friend that had an n/a monster ls2 goat that ran e85 and he informed me that he had to add 31% more fuel as apposed to 91 octane

[englundjd]

I went threw the boosted list again and noticed that not many people were running LT1 intakes, a lot of them were LT4/edelbrock airgap's. Will a ported lt1 intake be enough to satisfy this engine?

[popo8]

Stock intakes are capable... Single planes seem to be tge way to go.

Im running lt4...cause mt 227s are lt4.

MEMBER @ LTXtech.com

[shownomercy]

I went threw the boosted list again and noticed that not many people were running LT1 intakes, a lot of them were LT4/edelbrock airgap's. Will a ported lt1 intake be enough to satisfy this engine?

I would not spend the money of them unless you are like popo and have to.

Blackbirdws6 makes 700+ through a ported stocker, they are fine.

[popo8]

Mine was a deal.... The intake came with the heads...NIB...and all for less than the heads from afr....

MEMBER @ LTXtech.com

[MeanTA]

The stock intake is capable. But going to a victor will get you more power. The issue is the cost. Drilling the intake or heads, elbow, fuel rails, FPR, lines. The cost adds up fast going that route.

[englundjd]

alright, I'll probably run the stock intake since its capable, then later on I can swap on a single plane and maybe go to better then ported stockers if I want.


I think I have decided to just go with a 383

I think i'm going to use the callies dragonslayer crankshaft with a 3.75 stoke length, what should I use for a connecting rod, I-beam, H-beam? 5.7" or 6" length?

What do you guys recommend for pistons, Ive looked around and JE, Weisco, and Diamond seem to be pretty well accepted for boost, what do you guys think?

Also what do you guys recommend as far as piston rings?

* note, I want to spend the money now and not have the short block grenade 2 years after the build lol

Thank you for all the info so far, I'll probably keep posting questions as I think of them. hopefully I can get the short block and heads ready this winter.

[ZGOBYBY]

Diamond pistons for sure... they make fantastic pistons. I have a set for my build. Ohio Crankshaft makes very good products for the fraction of the cost of a Dragonslayer (which is what I wanted to go with as well, but Ohio Crankshaft's stuff has been damn reputable).

[CamaroZGuy]

alright, I'll probably run the stock intake since its capable, then later on I can swap on a single plane and maybe go to better then ported stockers if I want.


I think I have decided to just go with a 383

I think i'm going to use the callies dragonslayer crankshaft with a 3.75 stoke length, what should I use for a connecting rod, I-beam, H-beam? 5.7" or 6" length?

What do you guys recommend for pistons, Ive looked around and JE, Weisco, and Diamond seem to be pretty well accepted for boost, what do you guys think?

Also what do you guys recommend as far as piston rings?

* note, I want to spend the money now and not have the short block grenade 2 years after the build lol

Thank you for all the info so far, I'll probably keep posting questions as I think of them. hopefully I can get the short block and heads ready this winter.

Dragonslayer is a good crank but expensive, i have callies rods and -16cc CP pistons in my motor. As far as rings i dont remember what was used. But i had my shortblock built by slow but extreamly good builder.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

[Fastbird]

For a slightly cheaper alternative to the Dragonslayer, look at the Lunati Sledgehammer. Both Call 911 and myself are running a 3.75" crank and no issues at all. Very very quality piece.

[shownomercy]

For a slightly cheaper alternative to the Dragonslayer, look at the Lunati Sledgehammer. Both Call 911 and myself are running a 3.75" crank and no issues at all. Very very quality piece.

Does not exist anymore.

I run compstar crank, and rods, with JE pistons.

[blkchevyz]

anyone running the 400lph pump? was going to do the dual walbro as well but now not to sure.

[shownomercy]

anyone running the 400lph pump? was going to do the dual walbro as well but now not to sure.

I went with a external magnafuel 625 because dropping the tank sucks.

[blkchevyz]

I went with a external magnafuel 625 because dropping the tank sucks.
did you sump your tank for it?

[firebird_1995]

anyone running the 400lph pump? was going to do the dual walbro as well but now not to sure.

I have one. Biggest problem I see with having one large pump running balls out all the time is the fuel will heat up from all the volume transfer at low demand.

[blkchevyz]

I have one. Biggest problem I see with having one large pump running balls out all the time is the fuel will heat up from all the volume transfer at low demand.
yeah i was wondering about that as well.
just doesnt seem like there are any really good options for e85

[dawdaw]

yeah i was wondering about that as well.
just doesnt seem like there are any really good options for e85

Those 400lph pumps were designed for ethanol. I'm pretty sure they have carbon fiber internals but don't hold me to it. And as Chris stated a large volume pump will heat the fuel up, they do make pump controllers though. And I wouldn't worry about heating ethanol, gas though on a hot day I would.

And dropping a tanks easy ;) 5 minutes and mines out!

[shownomercy]

External pumps are loud, no matter what they claim to be. Mine is louder at idle than the exhaust :lol:

But, it will support over 1000hp and if it dies I can swap it out easy (most externals are rebuild able)

[gunters96lt1]

External pumps are loud, no matter what they claim to be. Mine is louder at idle than the exhaust :lol:

But, it will support over 1000hp and if it dies I can swap it out easy (most externals are rebuild able)

This^... mines not that loud, but I can hear it easily.

[dawdaw]

I coated my a1000 in petroleum jelly and wrapped in cellophane. Quiet as a mouse :)

[blkchevyz]

Those 400lph pumps were designed for ethanol. I'm pretty sure they have carbon fiber internals but don't hold me to it. And as Chris stated a large volume pump will heat the fuel up, they do make pump controllers though. And I wouldn't worry about heating ethanol, gas though on a hot day I would.

And dropping a tanks easy ;) 5 minutes and mines out!
i'll have to look into the controller, i was trying to think of a way i could rig up a hob switch to kick up the voltage at boost.

[NightTrain66]

LOTS of good info in this thread.

You really cant spend "too much" $$$ on bottom end parts. With that being said, the little GMC truck that I was with at the shootout is running a cheep Eagle crank and $250 China rods. He did spend good $$$ on pistons though. He just keeps it safe as far as the tune goes so far has had no problems running it the last few years.

He runs E-85 and usually has meth injection to keep the IAT down but a fuel line was coming apart on the inside and stopping the meth injection up so the IAT's were 22 0or so at the shootout. Still ran good for the heat, DA and no meth injection. Could have upped the boost more on the launch and had another 6-8 lbs of boost to ramp in if the track would hold it.

He still has factory leaf springs and something like a Cal Track bar so 1.40 60 fts are all it could get (usually 1.29-1.31).

Just keep it from detonating and cheaper parts "can" live. More expensive parts are a lot more forgiving about detonation and if you have the $$$, go ahead and do it.

Lloyd

[blkchevyz]

looks like i would want to look into a controller, my idea of lowering the voltage to the fuel pump till boost kicked in is not good for the pump.

[englundjd]

Lloyd,

while I know i could get away with it for a bit I would rather the short block be able to take punishment because I do drive the car a fair amount.

[firebird_1995]

Make sure you know what kind of pump you have. Some controllers reduce voltage to reduce output. Others use pulse width modulation. The controller has to be made for the pump or it will burn it up. Or so I read when I was looking into one for mine

[shownomercy]

Make sure you know what kind of pump you have. Some controllers reduce voltage to reduce output. Others use pulse width modulation. The controller has to be made for the pump or it will burn it up. Or so I read when I was looking into one for mine

Yup, if you vary voltage all you will end up doing is cooking the brushes.

Only run a controller if the manufacturer says you can, believe the fuel lab pumps can do that, and the new holley dominator dual pump setup is another alternative. Or, dual -044 pumps externally should be pretty quiet and they move a lot of fuel.

[NightTrain66]

eng, I agree . . . if you have the coin, get the better bottom end parts.

I was just stating that using cheaper crank/rods "can" be done but not really the best way to go about things.

[englundjd]

alright, so I emailed Lonnies performance and they said that twin 416's would be way to big for the bulkhead wiring to handle. He said he could hook up a 255lph and a 340lph and that should be good for around 900rwhp. What do you guys think of this setup?

[popo8]

alright, so I emailed Lonnies performance and they said that twin 416's would be way to big for the bulkhead wiring to handle. He said he could hook up a 255lph and a 340lph and that should be good for around 900rwhp. What do you guys think of this setup?

Im currently running their dual 255s


And am trying to diagnose and fix what may be an issue with the pumps or set up. Idk yet.

MEMBER @ LTXtech.com

[firebird_1995]

If you need that much fuel I would look into the a1000 or similar external pump. Aeromotive makes a fuel pump controller specifically for that pump. I think you should weigh out the cost of both styles and also consider the benefit of the pump controller.

[englundjd]

I think the biggest thing I like about the dual intake setup is if I happen to burn up a pump while im driving I can switch the primary and the secondary pumps around and drive it home.

[popo8]

I think the biggest thing I like about the dual intake setup is if I happen to burn up a pump while im driving I can switch the primary and the secondary pumps around and drive it home.

+1

MEMBER @ LTXtech.com

[englundjd]

I have a question about the fuel pump assembly: Is the bulkhead aluminum? cause if it is I see no issue in cutting out the stock bulkhead connectors and replacing them with bigger stuff. I'd have to do some thinking on how to seal it back up but this really wouldn't be that hard would it? Doing this would allow me to run the bigger twin pumps.
looking at this picture it seems like it should be pretty simple.
https://www.google.com/search?um=1&rlz=1C1ASUT_enUS517US517&biw=1517&bih=741&hl=en&tbm=isch&sa=1&q=lt1+fuel+pump+assembly&oq=lt1+fuel+pump&gs_l=img.1.6.0l2j0i24l7.4939.4939.0.11035.1.1.0.0. 0.0.163.163.0j1.1.0....0...1c.1.26.img..0.1.161.Gr b9Hyr3H8o#facrc=_&imgdii=_&imgrc=lOuWf0reZrkv8M%3A%3BCm69KOiZpx35wM%3Bhttp%3A %2F%2Fi.imgur.com%2FZOgxnl.jpg%3Bhttp%3A%2F%2Fls1t ech.com%2Fforums%2Flt1-lt4-modifications%2F1506841-lt1-fuel-pump-question.html%3B640%3B480

[shownomercy]

Drill some holes would be easy, then epoxy the wires in securely and make sure they are sealed up well.

[englundjd]

Drill some holes would be easy, then epoxy the wires in securely and make sure they are sealed up well.


thats what I was thinkin.

[1fstss]

i just drilled a hole and used automotive GOOP to seal the hole... dual 255's are living in my tank for like 4 years now LOL my 2nd pump is on a hobbs switch, it turns on at 7psi. only bad thing is neither pump is inside of a bucket anymore. they are strapped together with some fuel proof foam between them.

[englundjd]

i just drilled a hole and used automotive GOOP to seal the hole... dual 255's are living in my tank for like 4 years now LOL my 2nd pump is on a hobbs switch, it turns on at 7psi. only bad thing is neither pump is inside of a bucket anymore. they are strapped together with some fuel proof foam between them.


whats bad about not having them in a bucket anymore?

also what about the fuel temp climbing because of the bigger pumps, or is this a non issue with e85?

[englundjd]

just a bump for my last question and have a new one that i've been thinkin about.

Right now I have a walbro 255 in the tank cause my stocker took a dump. What do you guys think about running a single 255 in tank and then running an external pump of some sort on a hobbs switch set to x amount of boost?

[bigtoyz]

For the rotating assembly I did the dragonslayer 383 crank, howards billet 5.850 h beam rods, je forged pistons, file fit rings, floating wrist pins, spiral locks, billet 4 bolt mains, and bearings and it was just over 2500 for that package. And will take what you can throw at it. Balancing was included in that price also. Oh my arp kit was in there also I believe.

[GuillaumeC]

just a bump for my last question and have a new one that i've been thinkin about.

Right now I have a walbro 255 in the tank cause my stocker took a dump. What do you guys think about running a single 255 in tank and then running an external pump of some sort on a hobbs switch set to x amount of boost?

I would run a Kenne Bell boost-a-pump on the 255. It increases the voltage from 12 to 18 volts on the pump and it works really good. I have one in my Caprice and love it.
I'm running a Denso 280 lph pump with the KB BAP and I have no fuel delivery issues. Not sure how much power it would support with E85 though....

You could also try a Walbro 416 with the BAP, that would support a lot of power.

[1fstss]

I run 2 in rank walbros... I made my own kit... Both are rewired and the 2nd is on a Hobbs switch. Works perfect

[MoeHorsePower]

I run dual in tank walbro GS 340's, no hobbs, just don't want another possibility of a part failing, I ran an Aeromotive A1000 for awhile so running both pumps at the same time is no problem..

[Fastbird]

Moe are you running both 340's full time? How's the rest of your system set up? That's a LOT of fuel.

[englundjd]

alright so i've been doing some looking around and i can get an f1a kit with a front mount intercooler from a dealer here in nebraska for around $7000 he also sells custom cc cams. had him spec one for me for shits and giggles and he came up with 234/248 .612/.575 114lsa, 1.7 intake/1.6 exhaust rockers.

what do you guys think of that cam? I had him spec it for a ported lt1 intake and the 215 cc trick flows from AI

[1fstss]

id sell you my F1A minus the FMIC and piping for 5500... i have a 12 rib setup... blower has a fresh rebuild. you can honestly make a FMIC kit for under 300 bucks... i want to go turbo.

[englundjd]

i'm gonna resurrect this thread from the dead since I decided to just skip the funny gas and make some power, I wanna talk about twins vs. larger single turbo setups. Pro's and Con's of each?

[popo8]

If u dont get responses... consider starting a fresh thread of ur own... good luck man.

[englundjd]

@popo8 (http://ltxtech.com/forums/member.php?u=1330) this is actually my thread rofl but yea I may have to try if the ball doesn't get rolling in a few days

either way this thread is wealth of info

[popo8]

Lol.. I just didnt word it right... just meant sometimes new problems or new questions for advice are better as a fresh start.

[firebird_1995]

Twins are great if you want symmetry in your engine bay, aside from that, the extra one is a waste IMO. One properly sized turbo will create the power your after (and so much more) and be easier on the wallet vs twins. Dollar for power though, SC has it all the way. Unless you have a fully equipped fab shop at your disposal or deep pockets, turbo will break you in an fbody. There's just too much stuff to work around. Don't get me wrong, it most certainly can be done and with great results. I had considered doing it myself once but after weighing out the costs I decided to stick with SC. If I wouldn't have just bit the bullet and remade a bracket for my d1sc I would have sold it, 12 rib drive, 2 crank pullys, and with all piping and bov for 3k shipped. I have a beautiful 2.9L whipple mean mugging me every time in walk in the garage right now...... If you come across a good deal on a procharger head unit let me know, I've got an fbody bracket I'd sell...

[popo8]

Even if u look at the old supras. Factory was TT, but when people wanted to make em fast... they put a big dinner plate size turbo on em.

I agree that I think a supercharger is a better way to go, for the reason of all the fab required on turbo set ups.

Yessss there is parasitic loss from a crankndriven sc, but I would trade that off any day before all the gab work and....loss of AC that is associated with turbos.

[shownomercy]

Woah woah ... lets not all beat up on the turbos here...:lol:

My kit lets me run a front sway and AC, and it was just purchased that way (for less than a SC setup btw ;)) Now, I will give you SC guys that realquick is no longer making kits so sourcing a LT1 turbo kit is gonna be tough.

That being said, its all about transient response and what you want from the car. Dyno queen? MPH trap car? Roll racer? Actual street car? 1320 car? Etc etc.

Size your turbo to motor/heads/cam and you will enjoy it. Twins let you have better transient response due to the use of smaller turbos without the downside of higher EGT's, drive pressure, and backpressure.

[popo8]

Wow... ive never seen a turbo kit retain hvac. Thats cool. Was he the only one making a kit that would do that?

[shownomercy]

Wow... ive never seen a turbo kit retain hvac. Thats cool. Was he the only one making a kit that would do that?

AFAIK, realquick was the only guy making kits for LT1s basically.

[MoeHorsePower]

Moe are you running both 340's full time? How's the rest of your system set up? That's a LOT of fuel.


I run -10 feed and -8 return lines...As long as its not a dead head setup its ok,

[englundjd]

I am looking for a 1320/mean street car with an end goal of something around (everyone hold onto your chair for this one :stirthepot:) 1000 at the tires. Is it attainable: maybe, am I going to try: you better believe it.

The a/c is already deleted and gone so thats a non-issue. I would like to retain heat though, I like to bust the cars out for a cruise when its decent out in the winter :)

In all honesty I came back to this thread with a changed mind about the sc/turbo setups. At first I was kinda stuck on the supercharger (very evident if you look back in the thread), but now that I've done a lot more reading on turbo setups I was thinking I might like to try to go that route because of the adjustability, I mean I can simply change the tune and adjust the waist gate to a lower setting for street use and if I want to rip one out on the 1320 or want to pound the dyno i can change tunes back and adjust the waist gate up. There is no messing around with pullies and slipping belts, ect.

As far as fabrication goes I can tig weld and I can run a wrench very well, along with having access to band saws and assorted other things threw work, or at my parent's farm. I think I have all the tools I will need.

Please keep the info coming guys :) This has been lots of help and no doubt this will be a LONG fun build (when it starts).

Also I have plans run a simple turbo setup my cavalier before I do this so I can get some experience in the turbo world :)

[mcalus]

A little birdie told me Huron Speed will be coming out with a turbo kit for the old boat anchors :whistle:

[shownomercy]

A little birdie told me Huron Speed will be coming out with a turbo kit for the old boat anchors :whistle:

Hope they fit better than the crap they make for LSX guys.

Either way, 1000whp is a lofty goal.
http://www.ellweinengines.com/ERE43/ERE43.htm Only real detailed "build" persay that I can find.

You will want some ID2000s or similar, a massive fuel pump or multiple ones and a very good tuner. Granted you can turn up/down boost very easy and you can adjust how hard the boost comes on etc.. but have you ever been in a 500-700whp car? Even access to that club is pricey and going right to the 1000whp club is gonna cost you. A lot.

A 1000whp car single turbo is gonna be the fine line between laggy street response and good MPH/dyno. So like I said, find a very competent tuner to dial that in.

[popo8]

Ar 602 to the wheels, ai comsider my car very streetable and a scary handful.

[mcalus]

Hope they fit better than the crap they make for LSX guys.



I didn't know there were that many fitment issues. I haven't heard anything but good things. Any links?

[MoeHorsePower]

Moe are you running both 340's full time? How's the rest of your system set up? That's a LOT of fuel.

What type of boost controller are you running?

[shownomercy]

What type of boost controller are you running?

AFAIK he has a manual setup, so no kicking on second pump via boost level

[englundjd]

Hope they fit better than the crap they make for LSX guys.

Either way, 1000whp is a lofty goal.
http://www.ellweinengines.com/ERE43/ERE43.htm Only real detailed "build" persay that I can find.

You will want some ID2000s or similar, a massive fuel pump or multiple ones and a very good tuner. Granted you can turn up/down boost very easy and you can adjust how hard the boost comes on etc.. but have you ever been in a 500-700whp car? Even access to that club is pricey and going right to the 1000whp club is gonna cost you. A lot.

A 1000whp car single turbo is gonna be the fine line between laggy street response and good MPH/dyno. So like I said, find a very competent tuner to dial that in.

Thanks for the reply, my goal is 1000hp at the tires. I will most likely start out with an engine/turbo setup capable of said goal but in reality start low and work up as i do suspension, tuning, and fuel system work.