Video of a pass from last nights track run.

[OVA1]

Hey fellas,
Take a look at this vid and tell me whatcha think. I was sorely tempted to change out the Stall from the current 3600, to a 4000…

Now she is working off of the mail tune, running heavy rich… so there's beaucoup room just in the tune, if i EVER find anyone that can dyno tune this car. But I am thinking that I may go to a higher stall… your thoughts?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ebrwb_GCNVA&feature=player_detailpage

[JCzNova]

Hey fellas,
Take a look at this vid and tell me whatcha think. I was sorely tempted to change out the Stall from the current 3600, to a 4000…

Now she is working off of the mail tune, running heavy rich… so there's beaucoup room just in the tune, if i EVER find anyone that can dyno tune this car. But I am thinking that I may go to a higher stall… your thoughts?

Video????
OVA1

[OVA1]

:) It's up now…

[OVA1]

Here's another vid of an earlier run…


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QiMzIiKkj_E&feature=player_detailpage

[OVA1]

Beyond not having slicks which is preventing me from being able to pre-load and, the tune leaving her heavy on the rich side, what do you guys think is holding her back the most? Heads? Under rated stall?

Could use some feed back.

[JCzNova]

Beyond not having slicks which is preventing me from being able to pre-load and, the tune leaving her heavy on the rich side, what do you guys think is holding her back the most? Heads? Under rated stall?

Could use some feed back.

Finally got a few free minutes to check out the videos (Can't watch anything youtube on the Government work computers).

Tune, tune, tune. We pulled a full second off mine (1/4 mile) with just changing the shift points and making sure the fuel cutoff and on was correct. Then, I was real rich too and after leaning in down at WOT, shaved another 4/10's easy. All that was with me having wheel hop/axle wrap issues off the line and cutting 1.75-1-80's.

How heavy are your front wheel/tires?
Do you have the ALDL cable to datalog?
The 5.13s might hurt you too, making it harder to put the power to the ground off the line and limiting topend.

[OVA1]

Oh thanks JC.

The Wheels are centerline, aluminum and they're fairly light. BUT, the tires are 275/40/17s… So there is some fairly significant weight to be shaved off of that, if you're talking about skinnies. I'll look around and see if there's a set to be had for the drags. I've also got a set of 15" salad shooters which are quite light… so I could mount up a set of nylon tires there to go with the pending slicks out back.

The PCM I have is the 96 OBD2. For whatever reason, I'm told that I can't log from that PCM.

Before I ran into the kid with the 5th Gen I walked, who turned me on to his tuner… who assured me that he could tune me car NO PROBLEM, that he had a guy, blah blah blah… only to tell me after me tranny took forever to get here, that his tuner was in the Middle east tuning for Abdul…. and it was gonna be a while. I was talking to Moe Bailey about installing an OBD1, which he could use to set up a tune, then I could log it and he could make adjustments to his base program.

Like a DUMBASS I called Moe off because I was going to get a dyno-tune from this east cost shop…

So now I'm back to square one on the tune and it is making me crazy! It shouldn't be this freakin' hard… Yet, it is.

With regard to the 5.13s, I hear ya… BUT, they're awesome on the street. And I'm hooked… Once ya run these things, ya really come to love 'em.

Now I've HEARD that a tuner can program the tranny to roll from 2nd gear when ya manually put the tranny in second. As it stand right now it doesn't do that. Put it in 2nd and it rolls through first and sits in second until ya upshift. But I am thinking that IF I launch from second, that would be a game changer.
The other thing is the possibility that I purchase 28" slicks. Not positive that wheel wells will allow it, but if it doesm I think that would effective gear down the 5/13s to something life a 4.5x or 4.6x…

But I gotta believe that there is a MINIMUM of a half second to be had in a quality tune. The car just feel FAT… it's got significantly more torque than did the old 350 setup, but it doesn't spin up as fast and it just doesn't feel as sharp as I believe it has in terms of potential.

[JCzNova]

Oh thanks JC.

The Wheels are centerline, aluminum and they're fairly light. BUT, the tires are 275/40/17s… So there is some fairly significant weight to be shaved off of that, if you're talking about skinnies. I'll look around and see if there's a set to be had for the drags. I've also got a set of 15" salad shooters which are quite light… so I could mount up a set of nylon tires there to go with the pending slicks out back.

The PCM I have is the 96 OBD2. For whatever reason, I'm told that I can't log from that PCM.

Before I ran into the kid with the 5th Gen I walked, who turned me on to his tuner… who assured me that he could tune me car NO PROBLEM, that he had a guy, blah blah blah… only to tell me after me tranny took forever to get here, that his tuner was in the Middle east tuning for Abdul…. and it was gonna be a while. I was talking to Moe Bailey about installing an OBD1, which he could use to set up a tune, then I could log it and he could make adjustments to his base program.

Like a DUMBASS I called Moe off because I was going to get a dyno-tune from this east cost shop…

So now I'm back to square one on the tune and it is making me crazy! It shouldn't be this freakin' hard… Yet, it is.

With regard to the 5.13s, I hear ya… BUT, they're awesome on the street. And I'm hooked… Once ya run these things, ya really come to love 'em.

Now I've HEARD that a tuner can program the tranny to roll from 2nd gear when ya manually put the tranny in second. As it stand right now it doesn't do that. Put it in 2nd and it rolls through first and sits in second until ya upshift. But I am thinking that IF I launch from second, that would be a game changer.
The other thing is the possibility that I purchase 28" slicks. Not positive that wheel wells will allow it, but if it doesm I think that would effective gear down the 5/13s to something life a 4.5x or 4.6x…

But I gotta believe that there is a MINIMUM of a half second to be had in a quality tune. The car just feel FAT… it's got significantly more torque than did the old 350 setup, but it doesn't spin up as fast and it just doesn't feel as sharp as I believe it has in terms of potential.

I am running OBD-I so I am not sure on the able to log or not for OBD-II.

Shocks old and worn? adjustable? Factory rubber body mounts? subframe connectors?

It seems like a TON of people run the 3600 stall and love it. There are others like Joelster running over 4k right now, IIRC. He is at 414 cid though.

What rear tires are you running?

[OVA1]

I am running OBD-I so I am not sure on the able to log or not for OBD-II.

Gotcha… I am going to call the east coast guy tomorrow and see if he has a projected time that he can tune her. If he doesn't I'm going to just commit to Moe, unless someone else knows of a shop that can dyno tune the current setup, that is within a few hours of the house.


Shocks old and worn? adjustable?

KYBs brand new… stock springs. Presently have them at 50% of their scale. No Idea how to even approach adjusting them.


Factory rubber body mounts? It's a unibody…


subframe connectors?

Have a brand new BMR SFC in the shop, as well as a brand new BMR Adjustable Torque Arm… they call it the "Track Pack", if memory serves. From what I understand, the idea is to transfer the torque moment farther back to the rear. It is supposed to really help get the load to the rear tires… which SHOULD bring the 5.13s into a force multiplying asset, out of the whole. Of course that assumes Slicks…


It seems like a TON of people run the 3600 stall and love it. There are others like Joelster running over 4k right now, IIRC. He is at 414 cid though.

Yeah, I gotta say, for the old set up, it was perfect… Most guys, including the techs at Comp Cams, said it was too big, pushing too far into the meat of the torque curve. What I found was that it provided instant access TO THE MEAT of the torque curve and that gal hauled the mail son… let me tell ya.

That's what I was wanting a Dyno-tune, to get a better idea of where the meat is. On the video it sounded like it had a slight bog when she shifted into third. Nothing horrible, but it just labored there for an tick or two. So the idea was, if I increase the Stall, it sets that shift up into better torque values… thus less bog.


What rear tires are you running?

In that video, I was running he street radials up front and a brand new set of Nitto 555Rs… I literally drove from the tire shop to the track. They hooked a FAR SITE better than the street radials, but no where NEAR as well as the old Mickey Thompson ET streets, which were a nylon tire… which from time to time, given the radials up front did induce a scary wobble… but the Mickeys flat hooked. They stuck a 1.48 60 one great and glorious night. But that was also in the Vig 3200 which hit like a BOMB. But it also gave way too much, up top. The Yank, she doesn't hit as hard as the did the Vig, but she hold up MUCH better up top. If memory serves we picked up 3-4 Mph on the big end.

[Badhawk]

What is the weight of your car ? I think 513's is to much gear and your shifting out of your power band to early. What rpm are you going through the traps at ? I think your car should definitely have a 28in tire with those gears and a 4000 + stall. Oh I should ask 1/8 mile or 1/4 car I could see having more gear for a 1/8th mile track.


My car is a 383ci has 4.30 gears 28in tires and around a 4200 stall and works pretty well.

[JCzNova]

As far as the wobble, lots of ideas:
-Mismatched tires as several have mentioned
-Wide ass 275s up front and all that weight shifting to them after the traps. With tight, working correctly, power steering it takes very little to jog back and forth
-Front shocks age/brand/adjustable with all that force coming down also
-Brakes, one side pulling slightly more than the other, and then they might start to fight back and forth giving you a left to right to left action
-Grooved decel area after the traps?
-Alignment tolerances. Caster?
-Worn ball joints/tie-rod ends/etc.
-Worn wheel bearings

Just ideas there, not saying you don't take care of your car. Heck I didn't know my 2007 Ram upper balljoints were bad until a few weeks ago with it in the air.

Agree with Badhawk on the stall. That's why we were talking a trade before :D

With a 396 and mods I would definitely go to the 28" rears.

[OVA1]

What is the weight of your car ? I've never actually weighed it… but it's a full weight 96 F-body, minus the usual deletes, including the A/C, which I don't mind telling ya, I miss A LOT! and the front anti-sway bar.


I think 513's is to much gear and your shifting out of your power band to early.

Well It's hard to argue with the shifting too early thing. 'Cause that is definitely the case, in everything except WOT… I am hoping that I could extend the WOT shifts out a bit through tuning.


What rpm are you going through the traps at ?

She shifts into fourth (OD) just before the trap.


I think your car should definitely have a 28in tire with those gears and a 4000 + stall. Again that strikes right at where I am sensing it…


Oh I should ask 1/8 mile or 1/4 car I could see having more gear for a 1/8th mile track.

1/8th mile…



My car is a 383ci has 4.30 gears 28in tires and around a 4200 stall and works pretty well.

That thing is NASTY…

[JCzNova]

She shifts into fourth (OD) just before the trap.


Try running in D then it won't shift into OD, and may give you some different shifts as well. I run in D in the 1/4. I have heard some people's runs better in Drive and some in ODrive.

[Badhawk]

I've never actually weighed it… but it's a full weight 96 F-body, minus the usual deletes, including the A/C, which I don't mind telling ya, I miss A LOT! and the front anti-sway bar.

Ok heavy cars like more gear to get them rolling.



Well It's hard to argue with the shifting too early thing. 'Cause that is definitely the case, in everything except WOT… I am hoping that I could extend the WOT shifts out a bit through tuning.

You can a bit but with a 3.08 first gear in your tranny 5.13's is still a lot of gear definitely need more tire.



She shifts into fourth (OD) just before the trap.

Again that strikes right at where I am sensing it…



1/8th mile…

The car should never shift in to OD that is killing ET not to mention the trans won't last either. I would start with tires first that should keep you from going into OD then look at getting a different stall.



That thing is NASTY…


Thanks, I love my Circle D converter thing hits like a sledgehammer.

[popo8]

sounds great man...


MEMBER @ LTXtech.com

[Puck]

Besides the tires and tune to address the 60' issues and running rich, I would imagine your head's may not be letting that thing breathe up top. 195s are small for a decently cammed 396 at high RPMs, but without a dyno graph we can't know for sure.

[OVA1]

Does anyone know a Dyno tuner who is solid in the 4th gens in Florida?

[Puck]

Does anyone know a Dyno tuner who is solid in the 4th gens in Florida?
Not sure if they still do LT1 stuff, but I had mine tuned at Next Level Performance in Orlando a few years back. It was around $500 bucks, but they had the car for hours and did part throttle, idle, and drivability tuning as well...not just WOT.

They have really moved away from LT1s though, and don't advertise for them any more so not sure if they have the stuff to tune them.

[OVA1]

Yeah man, I've called them twice and can't get a return on the call.