Short Block recommendations?

[BaddAss93TA]

Starting to brain storm for my winter build for the trusty old 93. I am going to go with the trick flow heads and cam package from AI but I don't know what to do with the bottom end. The goal is to build a motor for boost, most likely a supercharger, but run it NA for a year and scavenge more funds to finish it up a winter later. Its not a daily by any means and it hardly gets driven but I want to build something pretty wild and hopefully enjoy the car a bit more. Compared to everything else in my stable at the moment its a bit of a dog but I really do enjoy driving it, it just needs more power.

I guess to start the conversation off, I was considering this... thoughts?

http://www.golenengineservice.com/documents/LT1 SB/383 LT1 Boosted Comp SB Web.pdf

I dont really have any interest of building my own, or piecing this all together. I just want to order a short block and assemble from there. I understand thats not the most cost affective, but the convenience is worth the money in my eyes.

[Fastbird]

What are your boosted power goals going to be? What supercharger? I ask because dependent on how much boost you plan to push you could get away with a higher SCR for a better NA experience while you're saving for the blower. If you're only planning on a D1SC blower for example, then you could target a 9.5 or 9.75:1 SCR and be able to run the blower maxed out and be OK with a good tune. F1A blower and more boost I'd shoot got a 9.0 or 9.25:1 SCR.

OH......and of you're going boosted.....do yourself a favor. Either when the motor goes in or when the blower goes in, 24x convert it. Get a better more tunable computer in it.

Just my $.02

Posted from my Rooted and ICS'd Rezound

[1sickta]

As long as your confident in the shops ability to build the short block to your goals I don't think it's a bad price at all.

I would upgrade to the best rod bolts they make and maybe see if there is a better ring package to go with, and a very good head gasket that works well under boosted conditions.

As far as running lower compression, I think your going to be so happy with the power it makes over the setup you currently have your not going to notice what you would of had going with a 12:1 C/R. Then once you put a S/C on it you can crank it up.

And I will throw in a plug for the 24X conversion.

[BaddAss93TA]

What are your boosted power goals going to be? What supercharger?

OH......and of you're going boosted.....do yourself a favor. Either when the motor goes in or when the blower goes in, 24x convert it. Get a better more tunable computer in it.

I'm really not sure what blower. I want it to be reliable most importantly. I don't want to be pushing the whole motor to the limits, over build and under boost is my thoughts here. At the same time I would love to be in the high 500 wheel numbers. I think thats possible?

I will most definitely go 24x. Its just a matter of when it fits into the budget.


As long as your confident in the shops ability to build the short block to your goals I don't think it's a bad price at all.

I would upgrade to the best rod bolts they make and maybe see if there is a better ring package to go with, and a very good head gasket that works well under boosted conditions.

As far as running lower compression, I think your going to be so happy with the power it makes over the setup you currently have your not going to notice what you would of had going with a 12:1 C/R. Then once you put a S/C on it you can crank it up.

I don't really know where else to look for a good assembled short block. I just remember golen being a big name 10 years ago or so, but I know many things have changed since then. If some one else has a good recommendation i would be more then happy to look into it. Appreciate the heads up on the bolts and rings. If I go this rout I will definitely call them and see if they have any upgrade options available.

I was thinking the same thing with the compression ratio honestly. Right now the car has essentially no motor mods. Intake, headers exhaust and a tune that the car doesn't seem to like very much. I think even at a conservative compression ratio it will feel like a completely new car and then I wont have to alter anything to throw the blower on a year later.

[Fastbird]

Steve, you're close enough.....check out Fonse Performance in Erial NJ. Probably 2 hours or so from you. Built my motor, Call911's motor, and Blackbird's motor (all higher HP FI motors all holding up great). A little on the steep price, but you do get what you pay for.

High 500's is EASILY attainable. A 9.25 or 9.5:1 SCR, D-1SC blower kit, pullied up some, and you're there. I am recommending the slightly higher than the perceived "normal" boosted SCR's of 9.0 or lower due to owning one, and finding it to be damn sluggish when off boost. That higher SCR is going to make the motor more responsive when not cramming a cubic ton of air into it via the blower.

That Golen block setup looks ok, but it's a budget block too. Personally, the rods and crank will be fine, but I like diamond pistons, and you'll probably end up needing a custom to really hit the SCR you want. You might get lucky and find a off the shelf set though. I LIKE the fact it's got a 5.7" rod, keeps the compression height on the piston up for strength.

Truthfully, given the simplicity and similarities of the LT to the SBC, you could find just about any engine building shop locally that could build the motor for you.

[BaddAss93TA]

Steve, you're close enough.....check out Fonse Performance in Erial NJ. Probably 2 hours or so from you. Built my motor, Call911's motor, and Blackbird's motor (all higher HP FI motors all holding up great). A little on the steep price, but you do get what you pay for.

High 500's is EASILY attainable. A 9.25 or 9.5:1 SCR, D-1SC blower kit, pullied up some, and you're there. I am recommending the slightly higher than the perceived "normal" boosted SCR's of 9.0 or lower due to owning one, and finding it to be damn sluggish when off boost. That higher SCR is going to make the motor more responsive when not cramming a cubic ton of air into it via the blower.

That Golen block setup looks ok, but it's a budget block too. Personally, the rods and crank will be fine, but I like diamond pistons, and you'll probably end up needing a custom to really hit the SCR you want. You might get lucky and find a off the shelf set though. I LIKE the fact it's got a 5.7" rod, keeps the compression height on the piston up for strength.

Truthfully, given the simplicity and similarities of the LT to the SBC, you could find just about any engine building shop locally that could build the motor for you.

Sounds good to me. I will give them a call. Will they build me a short block that I can just come pick up? I kinda want to put together the rest of the motor and do the install etc myself just for the experience of it. How much more should I expect to spend for the bottom end?

[Fastbird]

Yeah, they'll build what you want. Depends on the components you use. My shortblock plus motor assembly (valvetrain, heads, etc.) was $9K but I"ve got a Lunati Sledgehammer crank, Lunati Billet Rods, custom diamond pistons, o-ringed block, etc all going on. With Eagle components, that will be a far less number.

If you call, talk to Al jr.

[RamAir95TA]

Avoid Golen at ALL costs. If you want a mail-order short block go with Karl Ellwein or VRE (Victory Racing Engines).

[BaddAss93TA]

Avoid Golen at ALL costs. If you want a mail-order short block go with Karl Ellwein or VRE (Victory Racing Engines).

good advice, thank you.

Here is a copy paste off the VRE site.

Thoughts?



For the enthusiast that makes no sacrifices when it comes to their car's performance. The Victory Lane 383 LT1 Short Block is ideal for high levels of boost or nitrous use. Carrying the Victory Lane badge, you can be sure that this short block will meet and exceed your expectations.


Specs:

Callies Dragonslayer 3.750" Crankshaft
Compstar 6.000" H-Beam Rods
Diamond Forged Pistons
Diamond Pro-Select Piston Rings
Clevite Main Bearings
Clevite Rod Bearings
Clevite Cam Bearings
Splayed 4 Bolt Billet Main Caps
ARP Main Studs
Fully Machine Block w/Deck Plates
Balance Rotating Assembly
Assemble Short Block



Options:

Fel-Pro Intake Gaskets $20.99
Tool Steel Piston Rings $200
Coating of piston skirts and tops $315
BBK 58mm Throttle Body $309.99
ATI Harmonic Balancer $379.99
ARP Harmonic Balancer Bolt $21.99
Milodon 6qt Oil Pan w/Oil Pump $220
Upgrade to Howard's Specialty Rods $300



Price:

$4800.00 *No Block Core Required*

[Injuneer]

I know Joe isn't big on them, but Second Street Speed in Perkasie, PA has extensive experience with high HP (1,000+) blown LT1's (and my lowly 800HP nitrous LT1 :D ). A 20-mile drive for you.

[Big_tugg'ss]

I second Karl Ellwein! He is building my LTX 4XX ci boosted motor now!

[KWBaraka]

Avoid Golen at ALL costs.............

Agreed!!

KW

[BaddAss93TA]

Thanks guys.

No comments on the VRE parts list?

[RamAir95TA]

Thanks guys.

No comments on the VRE parts list?

Anyone can list parts. It's how they put them together that's important.

[BaddAss93TA]

Anyone can list parts. It's how they put them together that's important.

that answers my question perfectly, thanks!

[KWBaraka]

Anyone can list parts.

It's how they put them together that's important.

Which is why I'd avoid Golen. Their quality control has an awful record for at least the last 6-7 years.

I'm surprised they're still in buisness.....

KW

[Fastbird]

Which is why I'd avoid Golen. Their quality control has an awful record for at least the last 6-7 years.

I'm surprised they're still in buisness.....

KW

This surprises me because they were putting out REALLY decent products back in the 2005-2007 range.

[BaddAss93TA]

This surprises me because they were putting out REALLY decent products back in the 2005-2007 range.

yea, they were pretty much the go-to shop as I remember. I was thinking 2003 and the few years after as well. Like I said, things change.

[KWBaraka]

This surprises me because they were putting out REALLY decent products back in the 2005-2007 range.

And as their popularity grew, it seems that they had to hire more 'builders' to keep up with demand. My guess.....and it's only a guess.....is that their 'new' builders weren't as focused on the finer points of engine building as their original crew.

But it happened when their popularity (and magazine exposure) took off, that the quality of their builds dropped off.....SIGNIFICANTLY!

Same thing happened to a shop in Toronto in the early 2000's....Augustino Racing engines. They're build quality went down when demand for their engines spiked.....and they DID go out of buisness.

KW

[Fastbird]

Agostino.....I remember that debacle. And AP Engineering......Nu-Tek........

Posted from my Rooted and ICS'd Rezound

[Paulster2]

I guess it shows you, as a business, don't go beyond your means. And as an owner, be in control of your employees ... make sure their methods are your methods. Money is great, but it isn't everything, especially if you want to see longevity in your business.