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View Full Version : Dropping the k member, start of motor work



nascarnate326
12-14-2012, 08:33 AM
I will be dropping the k member for the first time on my car next weekend.

Any tips or tricks? I there a guide that shows exactly what I'll need.

Is there a special tool to remove the fuel lines.

Doing a legit hotcam build, lots of cleaning/painting, new heads, exhaust, etc.

Mystery Bird
12-14-2012, 09:22 AM
It's pretty straight forward, just use good common sense and safety. I remove the wiring harness from inside the car and pull through firewall, there's like 3 or 4 small plugs. Also, remove the oil pressure switch or you're almost guaranteed to break it off.

meissen
12-14-2012, 10:19 AM
This is all from memory so if I missed a few points, sorry --

"Before the drop" (Preparation)
1. Disconnect battery, remove
2. Drain coolant, disconnect radiator hoses from the engine
3. Disconnect the fuel lines - I like these tools (http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/attachments/5-0l-tech/118486d1293818644-1989-mustang-gt-fuel-line-help-7881.jpg) and they're fairly cheap but I hear most people have better luck using them. Tie the fuel lines up in the air or something so they're out of the way and aren't draining gas out
4. Inside the passenger kick panel there's three plugs which are part of the engine harness -- if you twist yourself up you will be able to see the wires coming through the firewall grommet and then can trace them down to the plugs but they should be pretty obvious. Disconnect those three plugs and pull them out of the grommet. When you get the plugs to the engine bay, drape the wires over the intake manifold so they're out of the way
5. Disconnect the exhaust. I think I had always disconnected the headers from the y-pipe and removed the y-pipe from the car entirely.
6. Remove the driveshaft from the transmission (usually just remove the whole driveshaft from under the car)
7. Disconnect the torque arm from the transmission
8. Unbolt the transmission support from the floor pan
9. Remove the front tires (if you haven't already)
10. Unbolt the front sway bar from the frame rails
11. Unbolt the front shocks/strusts/whatever from the body - the driver's side is kind of a pain with the master cylinder if memory serves correctly
12. Disconnect the brake lines from the ABS module
13. Disconnect the plugs on the passenger strut tower and drape them over the engine so they're out of the way
14. Remove the radiator assembly so it's out of the way
15. Disconnect the ABS wires going to the spindles

And now the actual "drop"
I tied a chain around the frame so that the chain wrapped around the frame where the coolant overflow / battery tray is on the passenger side and where the cold air intake hole is. Attach to the cherry picker and lower the car with the cherry picker so that the kframe assembly is resting on your furniture dolly. Unbolt the 6 bolts (3 bolts per side) which hold the kframe assembly to the frame rails. Check to make sure everything is disconnected and then start jacking the cherry picker so the car starts being lifted off the kframe assembly. Watch to make sure nothing is getting snagged (like the brake lines and ABS wires). Eventually you'll get the car high enough that you can slide the kframe assembly on the furniture dolly out.


Reinstallation is the opposite.

Tons of pics of the process are in albums here but I'm at work at GM blocks my personal website :laugh:
http://www.meissenation.com/ProjectLT1/

GreenZ96
12-14-2012, 10:23 AM
I pull the wheels and use a furniture dolly to drop the k member, motor and trans on. It works better for me to do it this way so I don't have to pick the nose of the car up so high.

Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk 2

meissen
12-14-2012, 10:23 AM
Btw - still trying to make up my mind if I'll be there. I really wish you were closer - not like 2 hour drive is that bad, though... we'll see.

Do you have the cherry picker and engine stand?

meissen
12-14-2012, 10:26 AM
Here's the write up I used:
http://www.pcmforless.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=122:engine-removal-from-underneath-4th-generation-f-body&catid=35:wrenches&Itemid=56

nascarnate326
12-14-2012, 12:57 PM
Thanks guys. I have a cherry picker, and will be getting an engine stand. Hoping to find one to use, if not ill just buy one.

nascarnate326
12-14-2012, 01:00 PM
Does the AC system drop out with the motor?

Brian, I understand the distance. Thats why you only see us once and a while. If your bored, your more than welcome to head over.
I know Kyle and Scott will be there, not sure about Joel.

jaysz2893
12-14-2012, 01:08 PM
Just the compressor and the wire to the ac clutch is a pain to get off.

Sent from my ThunderBolt using Tapatalk 2

meissen
12-14-2012, 04:41 PM
Oh yeah forgot about that. You'll have to disconnect the AC system from the radiator assembly when you take the radiator out... I can't remember the rest of the AC system.

nascarnate326
12-14-2012, 09:44 PM
Sounds like more work then I thought. Has to happen though, tired of not having a new looking engine etc.

Got a engine stand today too.

This is going to be a long project but will be worth it.

meissen
12-14-2012, 10:35 PM
I know I already said it, but I really wish you were closer. I could help you get that engine dropped out and torn down to the short block in 4-5 hours easy.

nascarnate326
12-15-2012, 06:26 AM
Hoping it goes smoothly because I have had shocks out recently, and the car has no coolant in it/intake etc. from the recent opti change.

popo8
12-15-2012, 02:30 PM
I pull the wheels and use a furniture dolly to drop the k member, motor and trans on. It works better for me to do it this way so I don't have to pick the nose of the car up so high.

Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk 2

This... We actually have a GM front cradle dolly..... It works great....


Larry (Popo8) Co-owner
LTXtech.com

nascarnate326
12-16-2012, 03:40 PM
Brian, you had your car up on 2x4 "crates", how important was this?

I assume it makes it easier to get out?

meissen
12-16-2012, 05:31 PM
Not that important if you have enough jackstands. Although truth be told I feel a lot more comfortable under the car with the 2x4 stands than regular jackstands.

http://meissenation.com/projectlt1/Albums/Album38/Large/RedAlert_003.jpg
http://meissenation.com/projectlt1/Albums/Album36/Large/LT1_013.jpg

95slowmaro
12-17-2012, 01:35 PM
i always pull my engines out the top. its like my 5th lt1 out the top. i did the bottom thing once but wasnt impressed at all

popo8
12-17-2012, 09:49 PM
LOVE pullin em out the bottom... But im also spoined to have a lift...and the lt1 kmember cradle.....


Larry (Popo8) Co-owner
LTXtech.com

meissen
12-18-2012, 08:01 AM
I've only done it out the bottom and honestly I can't imagine doing it any other way. It just makes sense to drop the whole kframe assembly out together.

Mystery Bird
12-18-2012, 08:11 AM
I agree ^^^^^^^^ I've tried it out the top...once.

Paules94z
12-18-2012, 08:37 AM
I just started my removal out the bottom too, for the first time. So far very easy. Should be out by the weekend. Like everyone says, take your time.

meissen
12-18-2012, 08:51 AM
Once you get the system down it's really easy. I dropped my v6 out, installed my LT1, and being new to mechanics/wrenching/engines I didn't realize that 1) it's a good idea to change the oil after start up to clear out lube grease and other crap and 2) running a stock tune (24# injectors) with 30# injectors for 15 minutes was such a horrible idea. I ended up washing my cylinder rings out and had about 2 quarts of gas in the oil by the time the engine seized. When we had to drop the engine back out we backed the car into the garage in the morning and by evening we had the engine out and torn down to the bare short block loaded in the back of my trailblazer to take to the engine builder the next day. Once you know the system, it's an easy 3-4 hours to drop an engine out even taking your time.