Stock connecting rods

[casey20000007]

Anyone know how much hp the stock z28 connecting rods can hold? When I built my motor I did it blind now after being on this site and talkin with ppl I think I messed up I replaced everything but the rods :( now I'm regretting it


You can't pee on what you can't touch (chevy)

[94Blackbird]

Anyone know how much hp the stock z28 connecting rods can hold? When I built my motor I did it blind now after being on this site and talkin with ppl I think I messed up I replaced everything but the rods :( now I'm regretting it


You can't pee on what you can't touch (chevy)


It all depends on how much power you're making. Stock rods are actually pretty stout pieces for what they are. Most people replace the stock connecting rod bolts with ARP bolts and call it a day. If I remember correctly they're good for somewhere between 450-500 with good connecting rod bolts.

[95ImpySS]

It all depends on how much power you're making. Stock rods are actually pretty stout pieces for what they are. Most people replace the stock connecting rod bolts with ARP bolts and call it a day. If I remember correctly they're good for somewhere between 450-500 with good connecting rod bolts.

Sounds about right. The connecting rod bolts are the highest stressed part.

[casey20000007]

Well shi* I'm making about 450 RWHP maybe a lil less and I wanna spray:(


You can't pee on what you can't touch (chevy)

[Bersaglieri]

The General rates powder metal rods at 500hp [crank], so I'm sure some ARP bolts would help them hold a little more, but that's getting into theory. 450rwhp + nitrous would warrant forged parts in most cases. How about a run down of parts or a build list? How much spray are we talking?

[casey20000007]

Ok forged skat crank srp forged pistons stock rods not sure bout the bolts ERSON custom cam trick flow 195's #42 bosch III fuel injectors fully ported intake 58mm TB and I'm thinkin bout 100 shot


You can't pee on what you can't touch (chevy)

[firebird_1995]

If you are on a budget I would suggest keeping the stock crank and upgrade to forged rods and pistons and having everything balanced.

[casey20000007]

The motor is already built


You can't pee on what you can't touch (chevy)

[94Blackbird]

The General rates powder metal rods at 500hp [crank], so I'm sure some ARP bolts would help them hold a little more, but that's getting into theory. 450rwhp + nitrous would warrant forged parts in most cases. How about a run down of parts or a build list? How much spray are we talking?

Theory nothing, ARP bolts are made out of a superior alloy and have a far higher tensile strength and are far and above more resistant to will stretch than the stockers. I think they are rated to 200,000 PSI, where even the GMPP rod bolts are only rated for 140k or something like that.

You are right though, at that power level and throwing nitrous on top, it is a very good idea to have forged rods and pistons at the minimum. Op is already over 500 flywheelhp, and throwing any kind of nitrous on it will put you up close to 600 at the flywheel or more depending on how much juice he wants to throw at it.

[94Blackbird]

Is that skat crank cast? If so be careful throwing a power adder at it. Cast cranks can break when subjected to a poweradder, and you're already right around the accepted safe limits of stock rotating assembly stuff. If you do decide to throw a little juice at it, I'd keep the shot small. The forged pistons are good, but the con rod bolts and possibly the crankshaft itself may not like it. Some of the durability can also be accounted for in how carefully the shortblock was put together i.e. how well the assembly was balanced, how close the oil clearances are vice the oil you are running and things of that nature. I would be very careful about throwing any more power at your engine as it stands right now. You might get lucky and have it hold together, or you might not and may wind up building another engine.

[casey20000007]

Is that skat crank cast? If so be careful throwing a power adder at it. Cast cranks can break when subjected to a poweradder, and you're already right around the accepted safe limits of stock rotating assembly stuff. If you do decide to throw a little juice at it, I'd keep the shot small. The forged pistons are good, but the con rod bolts and possibly the crankshaft itself may not like it. Some of the durability can also be accounted for in how carefully the shortblock was put together i.e. how well the assembly was balanced, how close the oil clearances are vice the oil you are running and things of that nature. I would be very careful about throwing any more power at your engine as it stands right now. You might get lucky and have it hold together, or you might not and may wind up building another engine.

I'm not 100% sure on the crank I know that it was sposed to be forged, and if I do end up having to rebuild it I'm getting all arp bolts and doing a nitrous cam and pistons that way I can run maybe a 250 shot or a lil higher. I think I'm gonna be on the lookout for a set of rods just incase so now the question is which ones to run? I beam or h beam, and I will not be having a machine shop do it this time either I will have someone help me with the things I'm not sure on


You can't pee on what you can't touch (chevy)

[Bersaglieri]

Post a picture of the crank, I'll tell you if it's forged or not.

250 shot or higher make sure you have the rings gapped right, probably wouldn't hurt to get splayed caps, for sure all forged internals, and H beam rods. Beware of the head deck, some people have found that factory LT1 castings just can't handle repeated heavy shots of nitrous. Also realize that 250 shot and up is going to be Direct port for quality distribution and a stand alone fuel system for a wet shot. I suggest talking to Nitrous Outlet for advice. I hope your driveline is up for it and you've got the setup to hook, otherwise it'll be a total waste. How about making a signature so we know what you've got.

-Dustin-

[casey20000007]

Post a picture of the crank, I'll tell you if it's forged or not.

250 shot or higher make sure you have the rings gapped right, probably wouldn't hurt to get splayed caps, for sure all forged internals, and H beam rods. Beware of the head deck, some people have found that factory LT1 castings just can't handle repeated heavy shots of nitrous. Also realize that 250 shot and up is going to be Direct port for quality distribution and a stand alone fuel system for a wet shot. I suggest talking to Nitrous Outlet for advice. I hope your driveline is up for it and you've got the setup to hook, otherwise it'll be a total waste. How about making a signature so we know what you've got.

-Dustin-

The 250 shot situation Is if I end up having to rebuild I'm not able to take a pic of the crank bc the current set up is together in the car lol and the sig thing does tap talk accept that?



You can't pee on what you can't touch (chevy)

[Bersaglieri]

I don't know anything about tap talk. I figured you might have a picture of the stuff before it went in.

-Dustin-

[casey20000007]

Lol I tried to get some pics of the parts but when I went up there later that day they already had it almost together :(


You can't pee on what you can't touch (chevy)

[casey20000007]

[QUOTE=casey20000007;254300]Ok forged skat crank srp forged pistons stock rods not sure bout the bolts ERSON custom cam trick flow 195's #42 bosch III fuel injectors fully ported intake 58mm TB, 255 walboro fuel pump the cam is a 548 lift 108 Lsa


Bersaglieri this is my set up




You can't pee on what you can't touch (chevy)