before and after

[zooguy]

first dyno run when i got the car put out 244hp and 277tq to the tires on a Dynojet.

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l236/project95neon/dyno-1.jpg

you can see the mods in my signature that i have done.

today at the dyno i did make more and the conditions at the time of dyno were:
Temp: 53 °F
Dewpoint: 45 °F
Humidity: 72%
Pressure: 29.75 in.

i got the other sheet ... what do yall think i gained?

[Chris]

Ima say 263/287

[DMBlack]

279hp & 292tq ?

[NastyZ]

297hp/312tq

[jaysz2893]

^^ i am with NastyZ. My M6, 3.23 rear car with about same mods did 314rwhp/350rwtq at not WOT (tb linkage was stuck) with 17:1 AFR and 2 injectors going out.. cant wait to get my newly redone motor on the rollers

[zooguy]

winner = NastyZ :claps:

[popo8]

LOL... I knew the answer.... Was it on the SAME dyno?

[zooguy]

yes ... once you have a "baseline" pull than you keep with that dyno ... some are high some are low ... but if you keep on the same one your constant

NastyZ you were 1 ft/lbs. torque less than what i got on my best run

[popo8]

yes ... once you have a "baseline" pull than you keep with that dyno ... some are high some are low ... but if you keep on the same one your constant
....


Thanks man.... thats where I was gonna go.... trust me, I got more miles on a dyno then you prob put on that car of yours.

either way, great numbers.... NOW H/C/I:secret:

[zooguy]

i want to keep my stock cam and heads, i would like to look into to getting the intake worked over. roller rockers and an EWP ... maybe a stall if funds allow

[jaysz2893]

i want to keep my stock cam and heads, i would like to look into to getting the intake worked over. roller rockers and an EWP ... maybe a stall if funds allow

I would get the stock intake and heads ported, polished, and matched. 1.6 RR's will free up a few more rwhp. EWP is kind of a waste IMHO. I have had more LT1 friends have issues with one on a street duty car. I helped one guy hook up a flow sensor and warning light system and it was not cheap or easy. One day the light came on, pump was out, flatbed took him home.. LOL He went back to OEM pump. The cam drive does not steal much HP like the old belt drive SBC ones. I am not sure if you are mail order or dyno tune, but a dyno tune can free up a good amount of power. good luck with it

[zooguy]

the tune is just to fix the speedo and shift points not much more, i told the guy my list of mods, but i am not sure if any was changed other than tranny stuff


and here it is:

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l236/project95neon/DynoSheetjpeg.jpg

any one know why it gets all shakey in the top end?

[zooguy]

is the car running too lean or rich?

[jaysz2893]

the dashed line in the A/F is where you kinda want to be. If you are running stock tune you will be a little rich. IMO you are pig rich at the high RPM's. Rich is not too dangerous for detonation, but Washdown can be an issue. Also fuel economy suffers. Lean it out a bit with a tune and you will get better power. Shaky at the top could be breakup. Did the car sound bad at the top end of the run? Solomon reccommends 12.6 - 13.2 : 1 at WOT which would have been at the high RPMs Idle A/F should be aroung 14.5:1

[Chris]

Really woke your car up!

[Epro]

I plan on doing the same mods this year, hope my results are as good as yours:claps:

[zooguy]

knowing that it is that rich i think a tune could yield me another 10-15 hp

or put a procharger on it ... that will help it lean out some ... just add more air in the mix:metal:

[zooguy]

sounded fine, knowing that it is that rich i think a tune could yield me another 10-15 hp or put a procharger on it ... that will help it lean out some ... just add more air in the mix:metal:


Shaky at the top could be breakup. Did the car sound bad at the top end of the run?

i think i could use some new spark plug wires ... a while back one was arcing on to the headers and i think it burned it ... new wires could help her in the top end smooth out ... not any gains but run better

[Viper]

Try a 52mm Throttle body, EWP, if affordable Competition cams 918 springs and 1.7 Scorpion roller rockers.

For some reason cars with those rockers and a stock cam will outrun a small aftermarket cam.

Reworking the manifold without matching the cylinder heads is no gain.

Save the bucks and have the heads pocket ported or add Subframe connectors and LCA's . Suspension mods also help the autocross events. 2400RPM Converter would help alot also and no effect on mileage.

That transmission rebuild helped a bunch.

[zooguy]

i am looking at RR for my next mod and i am researching the difference between 1.6 rr and 1.7 rr ... i am not having much luck, what i have found it that most people run the 1.6rr with a cam swap, and some people run the 1.7rr with or with out cam swap.

i plan on keeping the stock cam in my car but roller rockers and better springs i want to do. any one chime in on the difference between 1.7rr and 1.6rr (other than 0.1 for all the "funny people")

[Chris]

1.7 will give you a tad more lift than the 1.6 which is why people will use them without a cam swap. Most cam specs are rated with 1.6 rockers

[Viper]

http://www.gmhightechperformance.com/tech/0902gmhtp_lt1_aluminum_rocker_arms_and_58mm_thrott le_body_upgrade/porting_edelbrock_intake_manifold.html

Factory throttle body flows 630 Cfm 52mm flows about 750cfm the 70 1/2 Z28 with the original LT1 350 had a 780cfm Holley carburetor on it. Its good for 6-8hp You can also gain some flow with a stocker take 400 then 600 grit polish the insides of the tbody use a dremel to smooth the ridge just before the venturi openings on the front and chamfer the back to match the 52mm opening in the manifold. Also polish the throttle bores on the manifold. At the opening where the intake elbow goes smooth the lip up and radius toward the venturis. Polish the insides smooth but DO NOT touch the area where the throttle blades rest when closed this preserves idle quality. Then add an Ebay Airfoil. Clean all sensors install new gaskets. Most people can't feel a 2hp 5hp mod etc but they add up
10HP = .1 et reduction have ta reduce 100lbs weight for the same results. On mine the idle quality improved and so did the rev speed
Vroom Vroom to Vrp Vrp.
Could also take a file to the throttle shaft and flatten then polish for slightly more air flow. The smoother surface reduces turbulence and increases velocity. Could polish the outsides and add a custom throttle body cover for visual appeal. Or work the insides only for stealth.

Read the last caption under the last picture.
http://www.vetteweb.com/tech/vemp_0912_professional_products_lt1_throttle_body/opti_vent_tubes.html


http://xtremecarzone.com.au/index.php?showtopic=448&mode=threaded



Don't know if 1.7's fit under stock valve covers. Tall valvecovers and notching for the alternator
or relocating the alternator may be required.

To find the lift take valve lift divide by 1.5(stock rocker arms) then multiply by 1.6 or 1.7.
.450I/.460E cam lift .300I/.310E 1.6 .480I/.490E 1.7 .510I/.530


Starting to look similar to the Crane 104227 Cam eh
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRN-104227/

Heres the details

So much for lift now duration

Source:
http://www.pontiacstreetperformance.com/psp/RockerArms.html

In the Wolverine 234 degree intake lobe, the intake valve was open 4 to 5 degrees longer when measured in reference to the crank when the larger ratio rockers were used.

More ratio means more timing

Source:
http://www.popularhotrodding.com/enginemasters/articles/hardcore/0511phr_ratio/index1.html

As rocker ratio is increased, so too is valve timing. Note how changing from the stock ratio, which is actually closer to 1.46:1, to a true 1.60:1 increases your total valve duration by almost 20 degrees. This geometric increase is true for any cam in any engine.


The newer stock LT1 cam specs are .447I/.459E lift and .205I/207E Duration 117 Lobe centers.

Source:
http://www.lt1engine.com/tech/lt1-engine-block-fuel-valvetrain-power-specs/


Higher ratio Rocker arms open valves (sooner no OK Pun) and close later. think of as a longer see/saw
effective duration is added. Approximately 3 degrees duration is added for 1.6 rockers over 1.5's. approximately 6 degrees duration is added for 1.7 rockers over 1.5's.

So the cam performs like:

1.6 rockers
.208I/.210E Duration at .050 lift and .480I/.490E Lift similar to the ZZ4 chevy camshaft except 117 lobe centers.

1.7 rockers
.211I/.213E duration at .050 lift and .510I/.530E Lift 116 Lobe Centers.
very similar to the Crane 227 cam that at one time held the LT1 cam only ET record.

You will need springs good for .550 Lift to go with 1.7 Rockers 918 Comp Cams Beehives
or Chevy LS6 springs with comp cams retainers should work.


Another benefit for a daily driver is no loss of idle quality, gas mileage, or emissions inspections.

[1997transam]

hey bud i have a 2600 stall i would sell u for 25 bucks if u wana come get it. nothing wrong with it. it was in the car when i got it and i got a great deal on my fuddle so i swapped them. its just setting on my garage floor lol pm me