Clicking after battery relocation

[96LT1355Z28]

Two years ago I moved my battery to the back. Ever since then I get the usual intermittent clicking when I try to start the car, after a few attempts the starter will get enough power and start the car. The symptoms are identical to a low battery. I have checked and replaced the battery and then rechecked it over again to verify this isn't the case. All of my connections are crimped and then soldered. The voltage at the starter is the same as at the battery whether it's cranking or not. I have numerous grounds on the block, heads, and from the starter itself to the frame. The battery ground is attached to a stud welded to the rear down bar.

I was searching LS1 tech and a guy there found the solution to this problem but after PMing him it only fixes LS cars, see post 27 on.
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/drag-racing-tech/1400821-just-finished-battery-relocation-now-just-clicks-2.html
I wonder if our cars have the same issue of the relay having some issue with the relocated battery, this would obviously cause my issue.

In our cars all I'm finding is the theft deterrent relay between the ignition switch and the starter solenoid. Is it possible to bypass this relay and just splice the purple (from relay to solenoid) and yellow (from ignition switch to relay) wires together to give the starter solenoid a direct 12v? I don't mind removing the body control module and the VATS system all together if it's even possible. Car is a 96 in signature.

*EDIT* battery cables are 2 gauge

[95ImpySS]

I had a similar problem with my car. Tried changing everything, and ended up deciding there was a problem with the body harness. I was only getting 9 volts to my starter solenoid. Measure the voltage going to your starter solenoid wile someone holds the key in the cranking position. If its less than 10 volts I bet thats your problem.

I installed a relay to send power to the starter solenoid. Take the wire that would normally engage the starter and use it to turn on a separate relay sending 12 volt direct to the starter. This way the ignition switch is only having to send power to the relays coils and the relay sends 12v+ direct to the starter solenoid.

kind of a rough explanation :shiner:

EDIT: No problems since for about 3 years now.

[96LT1355Z28]

Ok so you just added a relay between the solenoid and the theft deterrent relay?

[95ImpySS]

Basically you want to bypass the starter solenoid wiring. Instead of that wire powering a starter solenoid which pulls a fair amount of amps. It will now be used to turn on a relays coil which requires much less current to operate. That relay then sends a good 12 power feed to the starter.

The whole reason I did this modification is because there is a bad connection in the wiring of my car causing only 9 volts to be sent to my starter solenoid. Which I found was not enough to push the Bendix gear out into my ring gear and create the contact for the starter motor. I went though 3 starters, 2 flex plates, 2, 2 awg wire changes, stater switch, and starter relay. All before I measured the voltage going to the solenoid. DOHHH. Measure yours when its causing the click and see if you are having the same voltage issue. If so, there is a good chance this will fix it.

6890

Forgive me, I am a horrible speller. MSpaint wont allow me to edit my text boxes. I need Photo Shop again. LOL

[96LT1355Z28]

Sweet thanks!

[96LT1355Z28]

After putting in a relay on the (purple) starter trigger wire it didn't fix the clicking every time. After looking at the schematics for the starter circut I noticed the TDR (theft deterrant/ starter relay) gets it's ground through the BCM via a small yellow/ black wire coming out of the TDR. I bypassed the BCM and grounded the yellow/ black wire, the car starts as it did stock every time now! I have had past issues with the radio powering off and on at random and the window's not always working. I re soldered those connections and replaced the ignition switch but these were still signs of a problematic BCM. I now believe my starter circuit problem was BCM related by a bad ground not letting the proper voltage get to the solenoid.

[Socom]

Sorry to resurrect a dead thread but I am having this same problem with my car now too, battery in the trunk and everything. I replaced my old starter yesterday since the solenoid would click and id have to hit the key 15 times or so before it would start. New starter turns the motor over beautifully when I give it 12v directly across the solenoid, but when I hit it with the key it seems like the purple wire isn't giving the solenoid enough power to fully energize the starter. My car is a 97 which I believe has the theft deterrent relay integrated in the BCM, should I try the fix you did? I don't have any radio or window issues.

[waltsfastz]

Man im glad you did. I got mine going a few weeks ago and it is doing the same thing. Maybey this should be made a sticky

[96LT1355Z28]

It can't hurt to try grounding the Yellow/Black wire. It has fixed my issue, if it doesn't fix yours you can always splice it back together via solder/butt connector.

[waltsfastz]

The yellow/black wire, Where is it located? And when doing this does it bypass VATS?

[waltsfastz]

Looking at some prints I see that is does. Where is the starter enable relay located? Is it under the dash or under hood fuse box?

[96LT1355Z28]

Under dash, yellow/black wire coming from TDR going into BCM. Ground it so it's not going through the BCM. It doesn't disable vats just gives a good ground to the TDR so it can keep a constant power to the starter solenoid.

[waltsfastz]

I went home at lunch and found the Theft deterant relay behind the glove box(everything is ziptied due to cage and not HVAC Vents, anyway I cut the yellow/ black wire going to the relay and grounded it. Car cranks like a champ now. Thanks again for the easy fix.
However looking at the print more this should bypass vats as far as the starting circuit. The fuel circuit should still be controlled by VATS, Something I need to do away with later

[96LT1355Z28]

Good deal!

[okst8engineer]

I'll add in here that I ran into the same problem and the same fix. I spent a ton of time looking over my entire electrical system before finding the culprit. Maybe this should be a sticky for battery relocation.