Where did you buy your power wire?

[TSAEB]

I had some bad issues with this ebay no name 4gauge wire.... corrodes and burns up pretty fast....I put the stock wires back on and everything is fine now....so i want to go ahead and upgrade the wire again and this time I want to make sure i get a good brand name...plus i have a battery box so Im going to go ahead and relocate the battery to the rear....I decided to go with 2 gauge wire....from what I have read that will be enough for me(will have nitrous switches,etc but stock audio system)

so my question is what brand do you guys have? i dont want welder wire....i was thinking of getting monster cable like this....

http://cgi.ebay.com/MONSTER-CABLE-25-FEET-2-AWG-GAUGE-CAR-AMP-POWER-WIRE-/390081857155?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5ad2b0c683

or asking some site sponsors if they can get this moroso cable cheaper.....

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOR-74005/?rtype=10

im leaning towards the monster brand better......so am i good with the first link?

[McCauleyWB]

May I ask why you don't want welding wire? It's abrasion, oil, acid, and solvent resistant. Plus, you can get it for around $40 (for 15 feet of #1 which was plenty for my install).

[FSTFBDY]

You don't have any local battery shops? I have one here and they have huge spools of wire to make custom cables.

[BIGT94z]

May I ask why you don't want welding wire? It's abrasion, oil, acid, and solvent resistant. Plus, you can get it for around $40 (for 15 feet of #1 which was plenty for my install).

im curious also.

i got my 1 gauge and 2 gauge from oreilys when i did my battery relo in my old 96 formula. they have it in 30ft rolls in the back and sell it by the ft. it was similar to welding wire and worked awesome

[95ImpySS]

Welding wire is some good stuff. High strand very flexible. In my experiences its been a bit pricey. Look around some car audio shops and see if they can get you prices on quality wire. Also checking local parts stores is a sure win for battery cable. Is this trunk mounted battery going to be the only battery in the car? If so, I would up the size to 0/1 awg. Especially for a decent length run.

Mount a distribution block in the engine bay to connect all the wires to. Trunk Battery, Alt, Starter, Fuse box, ETC.

I use this one in my car but I have 2 batteries inverter etc. : http://www.ecs-marine-equipment.co.uk/marine-equipment/distribution-buss-300a-item-25193.html

This will also work. http://www.ecs-marine-equipment.co.uk/marine-equipment/bep-distribution-stud-item-25173.html

To prevent corrosion. Make sure you Crimp, Solder and heat shrink every connection. You will never have an issue when done that way. Also use a heavy duty thick wall heat shrink.

[TSAEB]

well after reading your post i guess welding wire it is...i made a decision to soon....i was reading alot of threads and post saying it was not flexibale(sp) and would break.... but after more reading it comes out to be the winner.

i dont really have time to drive around...but you guys pretty much answered my question that you bought your wire locally so im gonna have to make time and do the same....and i did change my mind again and will be buying something thicker the 2 gauge.

i never knew orielly carried rolls of wire....looked but never asked...and the audio places i did stop to ask i felt they wanted to much.

thanks for the link 95impyss...that first block looks sweet....and i will for sure follow those steps you said

thanks guys again.

[McCauleyWB]

EDIT: You may already know, but I didn't see it mentioned yet -- you'll want to put a fuse or breaker somewhere near your battery too. I highly suggest getting a good circuit breaker (150 -200 amp) unless you prefer keeping extra fuses on hand in case they blow. Plus, the circuit breakers have a reset button that makes for a convenient way to cut power to the car when you work on it.

I have a distribution block for sale that I had left over from a battery relocation. It has (1) 0/2GA IN (1) 4GA & (2) 8GA OUT. This accommodates the power wire, starter, alternator and accessory wires. $11 to your door in case you're interested. It's essentially this:

6783

[95ImpySS]

IIRC the OP is moving the battery to the rear. That battery will be the starting battery. I don't think that a 200 amp fuse will hold up to the high current that the starter will pull. A fuse is a great addition as well. I never saw one on a battery relocation before. I am going to look into high amperage fuses for my buddy who is also in the middle of a batt relocation.

Fire prevention FTW

[TSAEB]

IIRC the OP is moving the battery to the rear. That battery will be the starting battery. I don't think that a 200 amp fuse will hold up to the high current that the starter will pull. A fuse is a great addition as well. I never saw one on a battery relocation before. I am going to look into high amperage fuses for my buddy who is also in the middle of a batt relocation.

Fire prevention FTW


let me know what you find.....nothing wrong with being more safe....they only thing i had in mind was a shut off switch of some sort which i believe is a requirenment when racing if you have a battery relocation.

[TSAEB]

hey guys is lugs a must or a simple terminal that i can crimp will do?

i see people on you tube that get lugs.....melt in some solder and stick the 1/0 cable inside..no crimping..wrap it up with some heat shrink...and your done....looks very clean and pro looking

then i see guys use terminals that you crimp....with special tools or with a vise....then solder around and put heat shrink.

and i notice the crimping terminals are alot cheaper.....not sure if the mateiral matters as well copper,alumium?

what did you guys do?

[McCauleyWB]

IIRC the OP is moving the battery to the rear. That battery will be the starting battery. I don't think that a 200 amp fuse will hold up to the high current that the starter will pull. A fuse is a great addition as well. I never saw one on a battery relocation before. I am going to look into high amperage fuses for my buddy who is also in the middle of a batt relocation.

Fire prevention FTW

I had 150amp ANL fuses on hand when I first did the relocation. Ran those for a while and did blow a few (over the course of quite a while). I also found a ground issue which could very well have led to the fuses blowing, so I can't say one way or another on 150amp. I now have a Rockford Fosgate - RFCB200 200amp Circuit Breaker in there and have relatively no issues. If the car is really heat-soaked and I turn it off & on quickly, it will occasionally trip the breaker. A quick push of the reset and she'll fire up again every time.

At the time I did the install, I couldn't find a definitive answer. Since then, I've seen several threads pop up asking the very same question and there still isn't a definitive answer. I wasn't willing to risk a fire, so I started small and moved up to 200 - which I'm comfortable with. It works fine for me and seems to be the typical suggestion from others as well. Assuming you don't have some ridiculously big stereo system or something...200 should be fine.

[TSAEB]

ok finally finished...glad my problem is gone....while i was there i did the wire mode and pcm relocation...only did the pcm relocation to practice since i wont be using this harness when i swap motors.....decided to buy the wire online...wasnt bad at all....maybe 5-10 bucks more compared to locally.....used lugs(soldered), ran the wire insided the car.....so last item i need is the 200 amp breaker.... i was thinking breakers are breakers and I dotn need a brand name.....correct or way off?

like this ebay one....http://cgi.ebay.com/12-Volt-Car-Audio-Stereo-200-Amp-Circuit-Breaker-Fuse-/350458188996?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5198ef94c4

and ill post pics of everything in a few days.