View Full Version : Battery Drain- I can't figure it out.
Firefighter Z
03-14-2011, 10:33 PM
Well it's been a while since I posted but anyhow,
I keep having a drain on my battery. I've checked and double checked on every thing and it all checked out fine.
I'm just wondering if the factory alarm is draining the battery out, so I'll end up pulling that out tomorrow.
Does anyone else have some other ideas of a possibility?
IronOutlaw
03-14-2011, 11:13 PM
I had a battery drain problem for a long time in my old formula. I finally found out that it was the console light not going off. I just cut and taped up the wires and it fixed it. How long is it sitting to drain? Mine was draining if it sat 4 or 5 days.
95ImpySS
03-14-2011, 11:18 PM
get a volt meter that will measure amps. (harbor freight has one on sale for $3 every now and then) connect it in line between your battery and battery cable. Read how many amps its pulling. Then pull each fuse out of the fuse box and watch for a change. When the amps drop a decent amount. Check what that fuse feeds and take it from there.
Firefighter Z
03-15-2011, 07:24 AM
I had a battery drain problem for a long time in my old formula. I finally found out that it was the console light not going off. I just cut and taped up the wires and it fixed it. How long is it sitting to drain? Mine was draining if it sat 4 or 5 days.
It had drained the NEW battery overnight...
I'm most likely going to AGAIN, go through the whole electrical system. It is a possiblity that I may have to rewire some of the component I have installed a few years ago.
This problem hasn't started until late last year.
95ImpySS
03-15-2011, 07:46 AM
Thats a pretty large draw. Using the method I explained above you have a %90 chance of finding the draw.
Firefighter Z
03-15-2011, 09:08 AM
That I will do, Thanks!
I'm also going to check my alternator also, it is original as the car is.
95ImpySS
03-15-2011, 12:42 PM
Also if you have after market amps, power inverters, air compressors etc installed disconnect them one by one and watch the meter.
Firefighter Z
03-15-2011, 01:33 PM
The only thing really aftermarket that is electronic is only just A/F and Volt gauges.
The whole car is pretty much gutted of all electronics except for the basics that are needed to have the car run.
95ImpySS
03-15-2011, 02:30 PM
Wile testing also disconnect the alternator. I have heard of them draining battery's when they fail.
93phoenix
03-15-2011, 06:31 PM
what impy says is both the most feasable way to find the draw and yes a haywire alt. can drain a battery...
joelster
03-15-2011, 06:49 PM
I had a console lid do the same to me, but it would take 2 days to kill the battery. Took me a while to figure it out.
faust
03-15-2011, 08:08 PM
i had half the diodes in the alt go out causing my drain
Firefighter Z
03-17-2011, 08:55 PM
Well I hooked up at Multimeter to my battery and disconnected every fuse one by one and there was no change in the volt.
I left the fuses out and watched the Voltage jump from 11.4 to 12.6 and then hold steady at 12.2 for a bit and then jump again...
When I had the car running also the volts would be at 14.5. Turn the car off and it drops to 12.0. Mind you this battery is brand new. and was out of the Camrao over winter inside a warm house and I'd test it to see if it was holding a charge, which it did.
So, to me it seems that the Alternator is going?
95ImpySS
03-17-2011, 09:09 PM
Alternator is fine if the voltage is at 14.5v engine running. You want to use the AMP setting on the multimeter. Should have to move the positive to a diff spot. Make sure everything is off and the car is as it normally would sit. Watch for current readings change. If its pulling more than 0.015 amps you have an excess draw. You should have a draw around 0.75-3.0 to drain the battery in 24hrs.
Check out step 7 if you are un familair.
http://www.ehow.com/how_5112670_use-electronic-test-equipment.html
Hope you find that pesky draw :cool:
Firefighter Z
03-17-2011, 09:16 PM
That I'll do tomorrow after I get the Alternator tested... The Alternator is the original one from 94' and it has over 172K on it.
And I'll need to pick up a new Multimeter since my El-Cheapo just went.
BIG CAT
03-17-2011, 09:28 PM
Well I hooked up at Multimeter to my battery and disconnected every fuse one by one and there was no change in the volt.
I left the fuses out and watched the Voltage jump from 11.4 to 12.6 and then hold steady at 12.2 for a bit and then jump again...
When I had the car running also the volts would be at 14.5. Turn the car off and it drops to 12.0. Mind you this battery is brand new. and was out of the Camrao over winter inside a warm house and I'd test it to see if it was holding a charge, which it did.
So, to me it seems that the Alternator is going?
have the alternator bench tested. a alternator has 3+ and 3- diodes. if just one fails it will still produce power but it will have a draw when not running.
Firefighter Z
03-18-2011, 09:04 AM
Well I had the Alternator tested and it checks out fine.
So now I suspect a short somewhere from the Battery to the Starter, battery to the PCM or Battery to what?
If I have to rewire the car, I have enough wiring to do so.
BIG CAT
03-18-2011, 09:19 AM
Well I had the Alternator tested and it checks out fine.
So now I suspect a short somewhere from the Battery to the Starter, battery to the PCM or Battery to what?
If I have to rewire the car, I have enough wiring to do so.
did you check and see how many amps the draw is?
Firefighter Z
03-18-2011, 09:33 AM
That's the next thing I'm going to check.
(Let me refrine my last post. I was thinking of another scenerio.)
For some reason though, I don't believe the test results of the testing on my Alternator.
I'm going to barrow a buddies Multimeter when he gets out of work.
I'm going to have to start making wiser choices in what I am going to buy for the Camaro. The Wife is starting to get upset. :laugh: But she dosn't want me to sell the Camaro?:hmm:
BIG CAT
03-18-2011, 12:34 PM
when you you check the current draw also pull out the relays one by one.
Firefighter Z
03-19-2011, 09:29 PM
Well out of a bold move I removed my GM Good Wrench car alarm and remote lock /unlock box. It never worked to begin with so why not. Hooked all the correct wiring back up, jumped the car drove it around for a bit, parked it in the garage for the night. Came home from work the next day around 3pm today, and started the car. The battery wasn't dead!
Threw the volt meter on the battery to see if the volts would drop/ jump around and they didn't. The volts stayed at 12.6.
I will recheck the car tomorrow after work again.
Thanks to those who gave me their 2 cents and information.
black heartbeat
03-20-2011, 02:33 AM
I could be that the car alarm was somehow keeping power going to your headunit, bear in mind it is three in the morning and my mind isn't as sharp as it was 12 hrs ago but the alarm system is in a circuit with the radio. Just saying
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