spark plugs sparking

[97 red bird]

having problem with arching at bottom of plugs near heads i've changed plugs 3 times wires 2 times coil 3 times opti 1 time each time with new or different parts any help would be greatly appreciated

[Chris]

Over torquing the plugs is the only thing I can think of and cracking the porceline

[97 red bird]

will try that i do have a problem over tighten things thanks

[97 red bird]

well changed plugs again closed gap down a little and lightly tightend down and still runs good till warms up then starts missing thanks for any suggestions

[95ImpySS]

Is it missing? or the is the spark plugs arcing? Missing could be fouled o2 sensors. Try unplugging them and then run it. As for the arcing are you putting any type of lubricant or sealant on the spark plug?

[97 red bird]

i can put a new set of plugs in drive about 2 miles and it starts missing get home and see it arching were porcelin meets metal part of plug looks like a ring on the plug if i let it set till next day without changing plugs i can go about 1 mile then starts missing i'm using sliver antiseize i've used 2 sets of bosh 4 sets of ngk gaps set at 65, 55, 50 making sure not to overtighting changed coils useing accel mallory now have msd i've changed optis going to try unhooking accel ignition if anyone can think of something please let me know and i will try it thanks

[95ImpySS]

Interesting. Are you putting the anti seize on the threads or on the part of the plug where ignition wire connects? If you put it where the ignition wire contacts the anti seize is filled with aluminium and will conduct electricity. To me it sounds like an ignition wire problem. Sounds like the boot is not sealing and allowing the energy to shoot down the plug and ground out.

Try installing a set without any anti size.

[tleed]

put some dielectric grease on the boots and make sure the anti-seize is only on the spark plug threads a little goes a long way.

[97 red bird]

only putting anti-seize on the threads i will try putting a little more grease on the boots also i'm using accel extreme 9000 wires thanks for the help

[97 red bird]

did you mean no anti seize at all or if i was putting on porcelain not to put it on there thanks

[95ImpySS]

I meant both lol. I had a guy put anti seize on the porcelain part of the plugs once. i just wanted to check. Try no anti seize one time. Just to rule it out. Such a weird problem.

[97 red bird]

will try another guy told me to check voltage to the coil and the ignition control module

[97 red bird]

how much can you get for parting one out i don't know what else to do with it, will not run now, it will start up idle rough then die:confused:

[95ImpySS]

You can visibly see the plugs arcing? Or is the car just running rough. Do you have an SES AKA Check Engine light on. I'd hate to see it parted out :(

[97 red bird]

ses is not on, yes you can see it arcing at base of porcelain looks like a ring on the plug where the metel meets the porcelain, but now it will not run i did a few things and new plugs tried to start it and it would idle rough so put things back the way they were and now it will idle rough and die i am so confused

[95ImpySS]

Well get this thing solved one way or another.

Do you have any way of reading what codes are causing your SES light to come on? Are you %100 sure the firing order is correct? I have messed the firing order up numerous times. F bodys are not the nicest vehicles to change plugs or wires on. Very back breaking.

In all my experiences when there was arcing between the plug or spark plug boot I would check for a cracked plug and then inspect the spark plug wire boots. Any chance you could change the plug wires again with another brand say from another store?

[97 red bird]

the ses light is not on i've changed wires 3 times i've used taylor sprio pro, advance auto house brand, and now accel extreme 9000 in past experience the accels have worked great on 2 previous lt1 cars and plugs i've changed them so much i can do it in less then 45 min. one thing i've noticed is the driver side looks to be running lean and pass. side looks like it's running rich. i'm just puzzled over this, this is the 4th lt1 f-body i've had and modified and helped work on multiple ones and never heard or seen any thing like it. thanks again for your time and input

[97 red bird]

found the problem that caused it to idle rough and die so at least it is runnig now, changed plugs changed icm and unhooked ignition it ran really good for about five min longer then before then started doing same thing as before if the o2 sensor is bad and causeing driver side to run lean would that cause the plug to fail in this way

[95ImpySS]

Glad to hear your making some headway :) What exactly is done to the car? You said ignition. Are you running an after market Ignition? IE MSD Digital 6 AL or 6Al or Accell etc. Try disconnecting the O2s. This will throw a SES light but will force the PCM to stay in open loop. Thus not using the O2s which quite possibly could be bad. Any chance you were able to see what codes the car is throwing. They will help point us in the right direction as to which sensor has gone bad or is out of spec.