Started my first cam swap!

[95-TA]

First off I would like to thank shbox that site is the bomb and has been helping me every step of the way. Anyway i got my 95 T/A when I was sixteen and to me it was quite fast back then :laugh:. So the lust for more power has brought me to installing a cam, lifters, 1.6 rockers, valve springs, rods, and pry more that im forgetting. I have no prior schooling on working on cars besides things here and there like simple stuff so this is a real leap lol. I've had help from a friend whose also eighteen and knows nothing either but the moral support is good to have. In 2 hours we have gotten the intake off and got it all sealed up probably not the fastest but hey were learning right?

I also have a few question first off i'm really wanting to run the cc503. I don't really know what parts would go good with this setup so if anyone could chime in it would be good knowing what parts would suit my application well.

Next thing is the bolt to drain the coolant in the block. Neither of us have any idea on how to get to that thing we have tried many things so a little in site here would be nice lol.

Anyway i'll try to get pics to show the progress but were on limited time for how much we can do in a day so it's gonna be a winter project. If I have anymore questions ill post them up in here to. Any tricks or hints any of you guys have will also be gratley appreciated thanks.

[Snkebait95]

I'm doing the same cam. No first hand experience with it yet but Ive heard its a good streetable mild cam so thats why I bought it. But if I recall you get the drain bolt from the bottom.

[95-TA]

I'm doing the same cam. No first hand experience with it yet but Ive heard its a good streetable mild cam so thats why I bought it. But if I recall you get the drain bolt from the bottom.

Yea im coming from the bottom we just cant get the socket around it or anything.
One more pain is the hoses with the clamps you pull together are a complete pain in the A$$. Still venting a little here lol and now thinking about it it pry took more than 2.5 hours to get where we are lol.

[95formula383lt1]

gotta remove the knock sensor on the passenger side from the bottom which is a drain, then the drivers side is just a 13mm ( i think might be 9/16s or 14mm its been awhile ) bolt that u remove i use a wrench on mine its a bitch with solid motor mounts though only get baby turns.

[95ImpySS]

Yea im coming from the bottom we just cant get the socket around it or anything.
One more pain is the hoses with the clamps you pull together are a complete pain in the A$$. Still venting a little here lol and now thinking about it it pry took more than 2.5 hours to get where we are lol.

Ha ha get used to that. Thats a F body your working on. CRAMPT. I don't exactly know what drain your talking about. I always just pulled the lower rad hose and the knock sensors...

Well to really take advantage of the cam you should do headers, ported heads (with new valve springs able to handle the larger lift cam), and a custom DYNO tune :)

What rods are you installing? Connecting rods??? Are you doing this with the engine in the car? Whats you budget and what kind of power are you trying to achieve?

[Fastbird]

Just curious, why are you draining the coolant from the block? Nothing I've seen you mention installing (unless I flat out missed it) necessitates completely draining the block.

For the CC503, I'd say Comp 918 springs would work good, with good hardward on those (titanium retainers, locks, ect). Some good 1.6 rockers (Comp Pro Magnum come to mind) and some hardened stock length pushrods and you should be set.

[SexyTransAm]

my guess its pushRODS. i did the cc503 in my car and i love it! i did a 3200 stall and headers too. im using comp 918 valve springs too. there might be some info in my build thread i dont really remember

[95-TA]

Just curious, why are you draining the coolant from the block? Nothing I've seen you mention installing (unless I flat out missed it) necessitates completely draining the block.

For the CC503, I'd say Comp 918 springs would work good, with good hardward on those (titanium retainers, locks, ect). Some good 1.6 rockers (Comp Pro Magnum come to mind) and some hardened stock length pushrods and you should be set.

I was more asking if i needed to drain it. It was on shboxes site so i was following that. Also I did mean push rods ,but Im just going for a nice street car with some decent power. I also plan on adding a 3200 stall also I already have headers and most supporting mods.

[Fastbird]

Yeah, if it's just a cam swap and you're not pulling the heads, then you don't need to drain the block.

[97lt1camaro]

If the engine is staying in the car, pull the hood latch assembly(after marking its location) off the rad support also. I needed like an inch to pull the cam out of mine and we had to stop mid pull to move that haha.

[95-TA]

A little update for tonight. I have learned that whoever put all the clamps on the hoses that go to the radiator wanted to piss us off all of the clamps face the most inconvenient place so you can't squeeze them together. That has been the hardest thing about this whole swap so far lol. And you think they could have designed the radiator so everything would drain out but no lol. I have spilt more things this entire night then I have in my life but other than that should have the waterpump off. Also how do you stop the crank pulley from spinning when taking the bolts off?

[95mysticta]

Dont try to wrench them normally all your going to do is turn the motor over your going to have to giving it a quick shot of force to break them free or use a impact on it at worst. They shouldnt be that tight unless someones already pulled it off before and rammed them back on.

[ItSSlowZ28]

from the sounds off it, you might like swapping all of your clamps to the screw type. get used to it being annoying, but the more you work on it the easier it will be. i can have the fans, intake path, and water pump off in about 15-20 minutes

[Black96z28]

Just curious, why are you draining the coolant from the block? Nothing I've seen you mention installing (unless I flat out missed it) necessitates completely draining the block.

For the CC503, I'd say Comp 918 springs would work good, with good hardward on those (titanium retainers, locks, ect). Some good 1.6 rockers (Comp Pro Magnum come to mind) and some hardened stock length pushrods and you should be set.

+1

I used the 918's and I believe cc 7808 push rods with guide plates. Like said before, just take the water pump off and leave the rest of the coolant in it. Get ready for the awesome.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MceRoG2gVqA

[dhen]

Also how do you stop the crank pulley from spinning when taking the bolts off?

Haven't done it on an LT1 that was in the car, but can't you just put the transmission in gear? That should keep the crank from moving.

[ItSSlowZ28]

Haven't done it on an LT1 that was in the car, but can't you just put the transmission in gear? That should keep the crank from moving.
i believe that only works with an m6. if he's a4 i think the motor can still spend. i should know, but for some reason i can't remember for sure right now

[dhen]

i believe that only works with an m6. if he's a4 i think the motor can still spend. i should know, but for some reason i can't remember for sure right now

If the rear wheels are on the ground and the parking brake is on, I don't see how unless automatics are different than manual transmissions...

[95-TA]

Ok things are going good I'm to taking off the hub. Now do you take out the bolt in the middle of it? And after that will I NEED a puller to pull it out? Btw the water pump sucked I spilt coolant in my eye and friends lol but were trucking along.

[Blubird]

what i did is put the balancer back on and then loosen the center bolt and then take the balancer off again.i had the same problem tho,i couldnt get my crank hub off it kept spinning

[Black96z28]

i believe that only works with an m6. if he's a4 i think the motor can still spend. i should know, but for some reason i can't remember for sure right now


If the rear wheels are on the ground and the parking brake is on, I don't see how unless automatics are different than manual transmissions...

Automatic cars in general have torque converters which allow the engine to spin freely to engage movement. In park, your transmission internals and everything to the wheels are 'locked' in place. The engine can still spin because the torque converter is not locked in place like the rest of the transmission.


Ok things are going good I'm to taking off the hub. Now do you take out the bolt in the middle of it? And after that will I NEED a puller to pull it out? Btw the water pump sucked I spilt coolant in my eye and friends lol but were trucking along.

Yes, you will need a puller. I even got a cheap one at sears, be careful when you pull the balancer hub. Just like when you pull the pulley itself off, the hub is best pulled with a socket in the center of the 3 way arm, and I can't stress it enough, don't use the puller bare on the crankshaft. The bolt holding the balancer hub needs to be loosened so you can pull it off. I have used an impact gun on a puller using the original bolt/ socket combo to shove against. That method is not the best for the threads of the bolt/ crank but if you're careful it works just fine.


http://shbox.com/1/pull_pulley.jpg

[dhen]

Automatic cars in general have torque converters which allow the engine to spin freely to engage movement. In park, your transmission internals and everything to the wheels are 'locked' in place. The engine can still spin because the torque converter is not locked in place like the rest of the transmission.

OK, I learned something today. I'm used to working on manual transmissions...

[Black96z28]

OK, I learned something today. I'm used to working on manual transmissions...

It's all good man... :)

[RamAir95TA]

To remove the pulley use a 3-jaw puller like shown in the shbox.com pic.

To remove the crank hub, you use a hub removal tool. You can keep the crank from turning by putting the hub pulley bolts back in and sticking a long extension, pry bar, etc., between them against the shop floor. Or you can use an impact gun to remove the center bolt.

[97Z28Muscle]

The CC503 is an excellent daily driver/streetable cam. That's what I put in mine about a month ago when I completely rebuilt the engine. You will love the lope and the added power. If you are going with the 503, make sure you also take off the heads and have beehive springs installed on the valves so the new spring will collapse as it should. You will also need locks and retainters. You can use your stock push rods, as long as they are not bent, that's what I did. You should also put in new lifters if yours have high miles on them. As far as pulling the crank hub, be very careful not to damage the threads in the front on the crank. The puller I used went right down inside there and before I knew it I bummed up the threads and had to re-tap it. Make damn sure you use a socket between the puller and the end of the crankshaft, you will hate yourself if you screw up those threads. The hub is a little bit of a challenge to get off, it's probably rusted on and may take some coaxing to get it off. Make sure you use some good penetrating oil and take your time, making sure equal pressure is used. After you install the cam, make sure you also put all three new seals in the timing cover, otherwise you are asking for a leak. As far as the rockers, I would use some 1.52 or 1.6 roller rockers, comp cams makes some that are really nice and reasonably priced. They have a magnum series that is a roller rocker, I think I paid around $175 for mine. Go to www.atlanticspeed.com (http://www.atlanticspeed.com) to get great prices on all of the comp parts, they are out of north carolina I think. Make sure you also go to pcmforless.com for a tune to accomodate for the larger cam and headers if you choose. Hope this helps.

[95-TA]

Haven't worked on the car the past few days we got snow and the sleds needed some riding ,but i think I get the getting off the hub part. Will i really need to take off the heads to put the new springs on though?

[RamAir95TA]

No, the heads do not have to come off to do the springs. Although, one might argue that it is easier to take the heads off and install the springs than it is to do them with the heads still on. As long as you have a good overhead spring compressor you'll be okay.

[GreenZ96]

Ive always pulled the heads, but I prefer to change the head gaskets while Im in that far.

[95-TA]

Ive always pulled the heads, but I prefer to change the head gaskets while Im in that far.
Yea that's what I was thinking would it be all that much more work to pull the heads from where I'm at? I'm asking because I've never pulled any before. Because If i went that route I might as well get LE1's with his 226/230 cam anybody have any experience with this setup?

[97Z28Muscle]

I have never seen anyone change springs without removing the heads. I don't know how you would keep the valve from falling down into the cylinder, unless you moved the pistons to TDC when you were doing it. Wouldn't it suck to change springs, cam, etc. and then blow a head gasket due to high miles? I would remove the heads and have them looked at, maybe even have a valve job done and have them check for cracks if you plan on staying close to stock. I hear advanced induction or lloyd elliott is the place to go for heads. It's your decision, it's your car. Do what makes you happy.

[RamAir95TA]

Absolutely no reason to pull the heads to JUST change the valve springs, unless you would rather spend the money on new head gaskets and add 3 or 4 hours of labor. Most people just turn the crank to bring the piston up in order to keep the valve from dropping (fun note - it is impossible to completely lose a valve in the cylinder) or use the rope trick.

I've done a few cam installs and never pulled the heads to replace valve springs. Like I mentioned, a good overhead compressor will work just fine for single springs and many dual springs.

[95-TA]

Ok I've hit a bump in the road. Im having trouble knowing exactly what im trying to pull off heres a picture.
http://i1001.photobucket.com/albums/af131/95T-A/IMG00078-20101220-13381.jpg
Should everything be coming out or just the hub coming off ,and if so how do i "push" it all back in.

[RamAir95TA]

The only thing that CAN come off is the hub, so whatever you're doing keep pulling. Are you using a hub puller or what?

[95-TA]

Yep using a hub puller just making sure that all comes out before something bad happens lol

[RamAir95TA]

All you're going to get is the hub...no big deal. :)

[95-TA]

Cool man thanks you"ve been a lot of help through this if I have anymore quest
ions ill ask.

[95-TA]

Well I finally got it out and am now waiting for the money to order AI's cam kit. I honestly thought It would be harder to do than this but with shbox's site it makes things really easy. Really happy I decided to do this on my own knowing all the ins and outs of it without someone who doesnt care as much about the car as myself doing the work. Thanks for the help along the way everyone!:peace2:
http://i1001.photobucket.com/albums/af131/95T-A/IMG00084-20101223-1412.jpg

[ItSSlowZ28]

nice job! time to make a lamp

[SexyTransAm]

man i love to see guys workin/ learning on their LT1 cars

[95-TA]

Well I've figured out what cam im wanting to go with (cc 503). I know everyone is very familiar with this cam and kinda need help putting together a parts lists of things ill need through summit. I don't really know exactly what will go nicely with what wanting 1.6 rockers to. Ill be using ls7 lifters to just looking for help putting together a nice parts list ,but not looking to go overkill on it.

[RamAir95TA]

The only thing I would have done differently is waited until you had all of the parts before you started taking the motor apart...just make ABSOLUTELY SURE you plug everything up as much as possible to keep foreign dirt and grime from getting in the motor. It's also a good practice to wait, especially since you haven't done it before, so you have a better mental recollection of how everything goes back together.

I'm not saying you're DOOMED, but just something to consider for next time. :)