Rev Z
09-10-2008, 12:26 AM
LS1 Brake Swap
Category: Braking
Difficulty: 5
Approximate Time: All damn day
Application(s): 93-97 F-Body
Added By: shocktrp
Last Updated: 2008-09-10 00:19:35
Tools Needed:
1. Rachet 1/2" Drive
2. 13/16" Socket
3. 3/4" Socket
4. 1/2' Socket
5. 15MM Deep Socket
6. Needle Nose Pliers
7. Breaker Bar 1/2" Drive
8. Hammer
9. Bucket or Pan
10. Lug Wrench
11. Jack
12. Horses(x2)
13. Rachet 3/8" Drive
14. 12MM Socket
15. 13MM Socket
16. 18MM Socket
17. 10MM Wrench
Parts Needed:
LS1 Brake Kit:
1. 18060620 LS Knuckle
2. 18060621 RS Knuckle
3. 18042491 LS Caliper
4. 18042492 RS Caliper
5. 18060230 Rotor (x2)
6. 22163505 LS Brake Hose
7. 22163506 RS Brake Hose
8. ?? Caliper Mounting bracket with bolts (x2)
9. 7470587 Wheel hub (x2)
10. ?? Wheel sensor (x2)
11. Cottor pins
12. Brake Fluid
13. WD-40
14. Brake Pads (with metal clips)
15. 22145478 Upper Ball Joint (x2) (IF NEEDED - includes nut & pin)
16. 22156500 Lower Ball Joint (x2) (IF NEEDED - includes nut & pin)
Purpose:
Swap out LT1 Front Brakes for the larger LS1 Brakes.
Note: You can re-use your old wheel hubs & sensors if your kit does not come with them. I had a problem with the brake lines. I ended up using my old LT1 lines & bent the brackets so they would reach. I'm not really happy with this setup. I am going to see if any Chevy trucks have longer lines that I can use. The LS1 lines are bent from the factory & they don't reach well either.
How - To:
Step 1
http://ltxtech.com/forums/shocktrp301.jpg
First inspect your new Steering Knuckles. Place them back to back & see if there are any differences. It is very hard to see if they are bent. You might have to put them on the car & measure the distance from the back of the knuckle to the spring & compare it to the old one. You should be able to easily fit your hand between the knuckle & spring. The bent knuckle that I received with my kit actually touched the spring.
Step 2
http://ltxtech.com/forums/shocktrp302.jpg
Jack car & place on horses. Remove wheels. Remove old caliper & rotor & place to the side. Unplug the wheel sensor.
Photo 1, 2, & 3 show old, beat up PS LT1 brake.
Step 3
http://ltxtech.com/forums/shocktrp303.jpg
Remove the 3 cotter pins from the "castle" nuts (upper & lower ball joint nuts & steering/tie rod nut). You may want to soak everything in WD-40 before you go any further. You can't replace lower ball joints in your garage, unless you have a ball joint press , so be careful not to strip anything. You can replace the upper ball joints by drilling out the rivets & bolting the new ones in place. Break all 3 nuts loose first. You want to work top to bottom & do the steering nut last.
Step 4
http://ltxtech.com/forums/shocktrp304.jpg
Once you remove the castle nuts, set them aside. Let the tie rod hang down. Lift up the upper A-arm & attempt to lift the old knuckle up & off the lower ball joint. If it does not come off, hit it with the hammer from the bottom. It should come right off. Place it aside.
Photo 4 & 5 show the PS suspension with the knuckle off. Notice the sway bar is untouched in front of the shock, the steering/tie rod hanging to the front (right side of pic), & lower ball joint (exposed in front). That is still the old LT1 caliper in the photo.
Step 5
http://ltxtech.com/forums/shocktrp305.jpg
Place a bucket or pan under the car to catch the brake fluid. You can choose between the LT1 or LS1 Brake Line. If you choose to use the LT1 line you need the bolt from the LS1 line as the LT1 bolt has different threads & will not fit the LS1 caliper. Make sure you put the little brass fittings back on the brake lines where they were or they will leak & bend the bracket as necessary for the lines to reach.
Step 6
http://ltxtech.com/forums/shocktrp306.jpg
Place the new knuckle on the lower ball joint & place the upper A-Arm/ball joint on top of the knuckle. Replace the tie rod & bolt it down. Then bolt down the lower & upper ball joints & replace the cotter pins. I do not know the torque specs, but you should probably look them up.
Photos 6 & 7 show the PS LS1 Knuckles on the car but not bolted down. The LT1 Caliper is shown in the picture still attached, however, you should swap the caliper over first as there is more room to work.
Step 7
http://ltxtech.com/forums/shocktrp307.jpg
Place the rotor on the hub. Place the caliper bracket on the knuckle & bolt it down. Replace the metal clips on the bracket (these are important - you should have gotten a new set with your new pads). Place the new pads on the bracket.
Step 8
http://ltxtech.com/forums/shocktrp308.jpg
Place the metal clip back in the caliper. Place the caliper on the bracket & bolt it down. Repeat entire process on other side.
**No matter which way you do the brake lines you MUST START THE CAR & TURN THE WHEEL ALL THE WAY TO EACH SIDE TO BE SURE THE LINES REACH & DO NOT KINK.**
Photos 8, 9, & 10 show DS completed LS1 Brake assembly.
Step 9
http://ltxtech.com/forums/shocktrp309.jpg
Now that both sides are done you must bleed brakes. remember to start with the PS, then do the DS. Replace the wheels & lower the car.
It is normal if your wheels are not toed in properly & pointing straight ahead. If they are off by alot or if the camber caster are off (too far in on top or bottom) you may have a bent knuckle.
Step 10
http://ltxtech.com/forums/shocktrp3010.jpg
Regardless of how it looks I would recommend an alignment & new ball joints if necessary. If the ball joint rotates when you try to put the castle nut back on, then it should be replaced. If you have a bent knuckle the shop will not be able to align the car properly & you will need to replace it. If you have an old set of "salad shooters" or other old wheels & tires, throw them on the front for the drive up to the shop so you don't tear up your good tires & swap them in the parking lot of the shop.
Category: Braking
Difficulty: 5
Approximate Time: All damn day
Application(s): 93-97 F-Body
Added By: shocktrp
Last Updated: 2008-09-10 00:19:35
Tools Needed:
1. Rachet 1/2" Drive
2. 13/16" Socket
3. 3/4" Socket
4. 1/2' Socket
5. 15MM Deep Socket
6. Needle Nose Pliers
7. Breaker Bar 1/2" Drive
8. Hammer
9. Bucket or Pan
10. Lug Wrench
11. Jack
12. Horses(x2)
13. Rachet 3/8" Drive
14. 12MM Socket
15. 13MM Socket
16. 18MM Socket
17. 10MM Wrench
Parts Needed:
LS1 Brake Kit:
1. 18060620 LS Knuckle
2. 18060621 RS Knuckle
3. 18042491 LS Caliper
4. 18042492 RS Caliper
5. 18060230 Rotor (x2)
6. 22163505 LS Brake Hose
7. 22163506 RS Brake Hose
8. ?? Caliper Mounting bracket with bolts (x2)
9. 7470587 Wheel hub (x2)
10. ?? Wheel sensor (x2)
11. Cottor pins
12. Brake Fluid
13. WD-40
14. Brake Pads (with metal clips)
15. 22145478 Upper Ball Joint (x2) (IF NEEDED - includes nut & pin)
16. 22156500 Lower Ball Joint (x2) (IF NEEDED - includes nut & pin)
Purpose:
Swap out LT1 Front Brakes for the larger LS1 Brakes.
Note: You can re-use your old wheel hubs & sensors if your kit does not come with them. I had a problem with the brake lines. I ended up using my old LT1 lines & bent the brackets so they would reach. I'm not really happy with this setup. I am going to see if any Chevy trucks have longer lines that I can use. The LS1 lines are bent from the factory & they don't reach well either.
How - To:
Step 1
http://ltxtech.com/forums/shocktrp301.jpg
First inspect your new Steering Knuckles. Place them back to back & see if there are any differences. It is very hard to see if they are bent. You might have to put them on the car & measure the distance from the back of the knuckle to the spring & compare it to the old one. You should be able to easily fit your hand between the knuckle & spring. The bent knuckle that I received with my kit actually touched the spring.
Step 2
http://ltxtech.com/forums/shocktrp302.jpg
Jack car & place on horses. Remove wheels. Remove old caliper & rotor & place to the side. Unplug the wheel sensor.
Photo 1, 2, & 3 show old, beat up PS LT1 brake.
Step 3
http://ltxtech.com/forums/shocktrp303.jpg
Remove the 3 cotter pins from the "castle" nuts (upper & lower ball joint nuts & steering/tie rod nut). You may want to soak everything in WD-40 before you go any further. You can't replace lower ball joints in your garage, unless you have a ball joint press , so be careful not to strip anything. You can replace the upper ball joints by drilling out the rivets & bolting the new ones in place. Break all 3 nuts loose first. You want to work top to bottom & do the steering nut last.
Step 4
http://ltxtech.com/forums/shocktrp304.jpg
Once you remove the castle nuts, set them aside. Let the tie rod hang down. Lift up the upper A-arm & attempt to lift the old knuckle up & off the lower ball joint. If it does not come off, hit it with the hammer from the bottom. It should come right off. Place it aside.
Photo 4 & 5 show the PS suspension with the knuckle off. Notice the sway bar is untouched in front of the shock, the steering/tie rod hanging to the front (right side of pic), & lower ball joint (exposed in front). That is still the old LT1 caliper in the photo.
Step 5
http://ltxtech.com/forums/shocktrp305.jpg
Place a bucket or pan under the car to catch the brake fluid. You can choose between the LT1 or LS1 Brake Line. If you choose to use the LT1 line you need the bolt from the LS1 line as the LT1 bolt has different threads & will not fit the LS1 caliper. Make sure you put the little brass fittings back on the brake lines where they were or they will leak & bend the bracket as necessary for the lines to reach.
Step 6
http://ltxtech.com/forums/shocktrp306.jpg
Place the new knuckle on the lower ball joint & place the upper A-Arm/ball joint on top of the knuckle. Replace the tie rod & bolt it down. Then bolt down the lower & upper ball joints & replace the cotter pins. I do not know the torque specs, but you should probably look them up.
Photos 6 & 7 show the PS LS1 Knuckles on the car but not bolted down. The LT1 Caliper is shown in the picture still attached, however, you should swap the caliper over first as there is more room to work.
Step 7
http://ltxtech.com/forums/shocktrp307.jpg
Place the rotor on the hub. Place the caliper bracket on the knuckle & bolt it down. Replace the metal clips on the bracket (these are important - you should have gotten a new set with your new pads). Place the new pads on the bracket.
Step 8
http://ltxtech.com/forums/shocktrp308.jpg
Place the metal clip back in the caliper. Place the caliper on the bracket & bolt it down. Repeat entire process on other side.
**No matter which way you do the brake lines you MUST START THE CAR & TURN THE WHEEL ALL THE WAY TO EACH SIDE TO BE SURE THE LINES REACH & DO NOT KINK.**
Photos 8, 9, & 10 show DS completed LS1 Brake assembly.
Step 9
http://ltxtech.com/forums/shocktrp309.jpg
Now that both sides are done you must bleed brakes. remember to start with the PS, then do the DS. Replace the wheels & lower the car.
It is normal if your wheels are not toed in properly & pointing straight ahead. If they are off by alot or if the camber caster are off (too far in on top or bottom) you may have a bent knuckle.
Step 10
http://ltxtech.com/forums/shocktrp3010.jpg
Regardless of how it looks I would recommend an alignment & new ball joints if necessary. If the ball joint rotates when you try to put the castle nut back on, then it should be replaced. If you have a bent knuckle the shop will not be able to align the car properly & you will need to replace it. If you have an old set of "salad shooters" or other old wheels & tires, throw them on the front for the drive up to the shop so you don't tear up your good tires & swap them in the parking lot of the shop.