Need opinions on what to do?

[93' Lt1]

I have a 1993 Camaro and I'm pretty sure I am gettting a false spark knock. I have Pacesetter headers, and will be putting on 1.6 aluminum roller rockers so this will be even worse. Just for a side note the heads were cracked when I bougth the car and were welded up and milled about .019" so compression is a little higher than stock. I was going to order an Lt4 knock module, however the computer for this car does not allow this mod. So I am somewhat at a loss of what to do to correct this problem and was wondering if anyone else has had this problem and what they did to fix it. Should I try to have the knock sensors tuned less sensative with a mail order? I would lilke to wait unti I do a head/cam swap to do an $500 dyno tune. There is even the option of buying a tuning system to do it myself however have not tuned any cars before. If I bought my own tuning system what would be best to go with for my needs, I would like to moitor the cars sensors when running also if I went this route.I would like to explore my options with pros/cons however try to keep cost down since I am going back to school in a couple of weeks. Any input is greatly appreciated.

[93' Lt1]

Also, the car only runs around 14.3 E/T at close to 100mph and I'm pretty confident that there is more potential there to run in the 13.8 E/T. I had someone tune this car supposedly. I don't know if they really did anything, especially since after getting my car back it still gives me a code 26(I think) The EVAP code. EGR and AIR have been deleted. Just trying to give enough info to help me assist my problem.

[popo8]

When you had someone tune the car, what did they tell you they did. Because my understanding (and I may be wrong) but the 93's require burning a chip for everytime a tune is prepared for it, unlike the newer ones where the computer itself can be retuned....

[93' Lt1]

Well here is what happened. I put headers on the car and wanted the ses light turned off so when I got to school last semester I paid the local speed shop in town(Stillwater, OK) to tune my car. They have a guy come from Tulsa every now and then to tune cars, say he is the best around. Well low and behold they tell me that it was the last year of the Eprom or flash computer. So he had to actually take the chip with him and program and I had to wait about a week then I finally got my car back, this was not a dyno tune just basically a mail tune through a shop almost. If I remember correctly the code 26 or Evap code was not on unitl I got the car back. It ran okay maybe a only a minute difference. They said that they tuned it for the 160 thermostat and deleted the egr and air and evap supposedly did a real basic tune for the headers, cai, ewp and etc.. If this is true, not sure why I still have an Evap code, but thats kinda something I wanted to get fixed to if I do in the end have to do some type of tune. I don't know how good of a tune was done and don't know all of the details to what he did. Does it not sound like my car should be capable of running higher 13's E/T at a little over 100 mph? And who knows maybe I can't drive worth a crap, but I do know my car shold run better than it does, I can almost feel the car pull back a little at certain time as if the timing is being pulled for spark knock.

[QC97Z]

I think your ET's are about right, especially if you're an A4. Long tubes, CAI, EWP, and an MSD opti won't really net you all that much.
It sounds like maybe your tune isn't all that great, especially since you still have an EVAP code. I'd send it in to someone else that does this sort of thing all the time, like PCMforless or the like.

[Blubird]

i agree it sounds like the tune,especially if it happened afterwards.PCMforless tuned my car and they did a great job.Im not sure how you would tune for an ewp anyways.Im selling the comp out of my car if youre interested,it has a tune for long tunes,cai,egr and air delete,cat back and 160 t-stat.