Do u think ill be able to yank the tires??

[AChotrod]

Im wondering if Ill be able to yank the tires when my car is together
le2 heads milled .030
le2 cam 230/236 .565/568 108
1.6 pro mags
le3 intake
58 Tb
37# injectors
Lpp Lts and ory
B&B cat back
6spd
not sure wich clutch yet
4.10s
disconnect front sway bar
TA
SFC
TA
PHB
On skinny's and either DRs or slicks?
Have all the parts already but the clutch and gears/rear end
3600# with me in it

Thanks

[KissMyWhtSS]

I think you'll be able to blow the 10 bolt. :D

[AChotrod]

By next spring it with have a 12 bolt or 9 inch

[James Montigny]

With a set of drag shocks you should be able to get some daylight under there if the rear end holds LOL
I'm not sure if the stock shocks will allow you to transfer enough weight.
Only one way to find out :)

DRs should be plenty for that setup.

[AChotrod]

I see you got them up! Thats what got me thinkin about it.

[James Montigny]

I see you got them up! Thats what got me thinkin about it.Yes I did, the QA1s get most of the credit.
I wasn't launching nearly as hard with the KYBs, then again, those weren't drag shocks.

[AChotrod]

Hmm.... drag shocks?? What a set run these days? I would like to keep it street friendly but if thats the only way. Then I might just have to go that route.:devil:

[Z28pr0jekt]

Hmm.... drag shocks?? What a set run these days? I would like to keep it street friendly but if thats the only way. Then I might just have to go that route.:devil:
The qa1's are street friendly, theyre adjustable so you can soften up the ride when you want to

[James Montigny]

The qa1's are street friendly, theyre adjustable so you can soften up the ride when you want to
The QA1 R's are a decent street shock and a very nice race shock.
I wouldn't go canyon carving with them though.
I think I paid $600 for the 4 shocks and front springs last year.
I do like the adjustability, but they don't handle anywhere near as well as my KYBs did on the street.

The Koni's are rumored to provide better all-around performance,
at least that's what Sam Strano indicated on several occasions. I've never tried them.
Certainly not something I'd use on a dedicated drag car.

[bidicamaro]

I don't think you can... you should give that set up to me and go bigger and better... :whistle: :D

[joelster]

You have the power to do it. Might want to consider taking some weight off of the nose if you can. The bumper support is about 25lbs, and it sticks out way in the front. There's a bunch of assorted brackets and crap you can get rid of if you want to.

You can be conservative and take off 30lbs without a sweat.

Or you can go a little crazy and take off 100lbs, but your car won't be too safe:
bumper supports= 25lbs (this will make it somewhat unsafe)
cruise control= 6lbs?
A/C condensor= 13lbs
A/C lines= 2lbs
Sway bar= 15lbs

Take off your front fenders (while the bumper cover is off) and grab your sawz-all, there is roughly 7-8lbs of metal that is not needed on the top. It forms the shape of the fender itself (the curved part), but it is not needed at all, because the fenders are easily stiff enough to not need support. = 16lbs

Windshield reservoir= 5lbs

There are other little things I am forgetting (i'm going off of the top of my head), but I just gave you over 80lbs worth. Basically look at something, and say to yourself "does this really need to be on my car?"

There are lots of things that save weight that involve spending money. Here are a few:
lightweight battery OdysseyPC680 = $150 and saves at least 20 off of the nose
A/C delete pulley $65 saves about 14lbs off of the nose
Weld draglites with radial tires= $325ish saves about 35-40lbs
Weld draglites with Moroso bias-ply =$440 saves about 55lbs

All of the stuff I mentioned is weight from the front end. Your front end will LOVE it! A set of QA1's for the front will run around $350 or so with springs (get the 275lbers)

[AChotrod]

Great Info! I dont think Im going to chop out much from the front for now. But the welds & skinnies K-member/a-arms will happen down the road maybe relocate the battery. Will also delete the air/egr crap. Not to sure about pullin the bumper support or cutting out the inner fenders.

[Stroked96Bowtie]

well its all in the suspension and chassis. Even on spray my car doesnt lift enough to even slide a piece of paper under the tires. Ive got my TA and relocation brackets adjust all the way down...which is what keeps it on the ground.

Cool idea on the inner fender Joe..havent seen that one yet.

[NicksTAgt]

Hmm.... drag shocks?? What a set run these days? I would like to keep it street friendly but if thats the only way. Then I might just have to go that route.:devil:

I know a guy that was selling a set of used rear qa1s for 220, he might still have them, pm me if ur interested

[joelster]

Personally I would NOT relocate the battery. There are several reasons why.

1. It adds a lot of weight to your car. You HAVE to run a strong battery when you do this, you can't run a small lightweight one. The cables for the system will weigh roughly 15lbs or so. Add in the on/off switch WHICH IS MANDANTORY IF YOU RELOCATE YOUR BATTERY, along with cables for the alternator disconnect, and you've added roughly 15-20 extra lbs.

2. Don't forget that our cars have no trunks. Therefore YOU MUST RUN AN NHRA APPROVED sealed box ($125ish), which just adds more weight and expense.

Honestly, the extra weight transfer that you get isn't really needed at all. Put a set of M/T's on your car, AND IT AIN'T GONNA SPIN AT THE TRACK! You don't NEED to have the battery in back until your car is running some serious numbers (9.90 iirc).

The best option for a battery is to get a lightweight one, and keep it in the stock location. I run the Odyssey 680 which weighs 14lbs. There is a lighter one made by brailleauto which is 11lbs. Your stock battery weighs about 35-40lbs.

Think about it like this. A 1/4 mile track is 1320 feet long.
Putting the battery in back MAY help a teensy bit in weight transfer for the first 40feet or so. After the 40' mark you are simply hauling an extra 35-40lbs down the track for 1280 feet.

The brailleauto battery was $199 last time I looked.

[casper383]

It sounds like u would have enough there! I've done pretty much everything except cut the front fender wells, i don't wnt my car to come up any higher:secret:

[James Montigny]

The best option for a battery is to get a lightweight one, and keep it in the stock location. I run the Odyssey 680 which weighs 14lbs. There is a lighter one made by brailleauto which is 11lbs. Your stock battery weighs about 35-40lbs.

I agree. I was actually thinking of running one of those for racing the switching back to
the stock-style battery for DDing (the same way I swap my Swaybar and DRs now)

I don't like the idea of DDing with such a small battery, too easy to drain it.
I suppose you could just keep a portable jumpstarter in the trunk when driving on the street.
(I keep one in my beater Tbird all the time, comes in real handy when
someone's battery is dead in the parking lot at work; that way I can be a nice guy
without the risks of using jumper cables on a car I don't know/trust)

[joelster]

I agree. I was actually thinking of running one of those for racing the switching back to
the stock-style battery for DDing (the same way I swap my Swaybar and DRs now)

I don't like the idea of DDing with such a small battery, too easy to drain it.
I suppose you could just keep a portable jumpstarter in the trunk when driving on the street.
(I keep one in my beater Tbird all the time, comes in real handy when
someone's battery is dead in the parking lot at work; that way I can be a nice guy
without the risks of using jumper cables on a car I don't know/trust)
Those little batteries are actually quite powerful. They don't have a lot of reserve power though. I DD with mine with ZERO issues. They have enough juice to crank any motor, but not for a continuous 5 minutes straight. Tech inspection at the track is so much easier now too.

[grn95t/a]

this is my friends old car at the track in july. pulled the wheels like this every time with a 1.51 60'. had stock springs and shocks in the rear as well as the stock tq arm and 10 bolt w/4.10's and 28" micky drag radials, bmr lwr arms and panhard. the tq arm was relocated to the trans crossmember (th400 ) sfc and a 6 point rollbar. up front the stock battery was in place, but major weight reduction. stock kmember w/qa1's. went 11.30's all night flashing the converter.

http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg264/lt1junkie/RYANSBABY004.jpg

[James Montigny]

They don't have a lot of reserve power though.
That's the problem for some people though, at least as a DD.
Lights left on, listenening to the last few min of that J's rant before you get
out of the car, leaving a radar detector or cell phone plugged in.
For those of us with EWPs, leaving it in ACC for a few min to cool.

If it were an occasional street toy or track car, i wouldn't think twice about it.
Getting stranded somewhere in the middle of the night after hanging out with the guys is no fun.


but major weight reduction.

w/qa1's.
Those are the keys :) Having a nice big stall doesn't hurt either :jest:

[TCGiRL220]

You have the power to do it. Might want to consider taking some weight off of the nose if you can. The bumper support is about 25lbs, and it sticks out way in the front. There's a bunch of assorted brackets and crap you can get rid of if you want to.

You can be conservative and take off 30lbs without a sweat.

Or you can go a little crazy and take off 100lbs, but your car won't be too safe:
bumper supports= 25lbs (this will make it somewhat unsafe)
cruise control= 6lbs?
A/C condensor= 13lbs
A/C lines= 2lbs
Sway bar= 15lbs

Take off your front fenders (while the bumper cover is off) and grab your sawz-all, there is roughly 7-8lbs of metal that is not needed on the top. It forms the shape of the fender itself (the curved part), but it is not needed at all, because the fenders are easily stiff enough to not need support. = 16lbs

Windshield reservoir= 5lbs

There are other little things I am forgetting (i'm going off of the top of my head), but I just gave you over 80lbs worth. Basically look at something, and say to yourself "does this really need to be on my car?"

There are lots of things that save weight that involve spending money. Here are a few:
lightweight battery OdysseyPC680 = $150 and saves at least 20 off of the nose
A/C delete pulley $65 saves about 14lbs off of the nose
Weld draglites with radial tires= $325ish saves about 35-40lbs
Weld draglites with Moroso bias-ply =$440 saves about 55lbs

All of the stuff I mentioned is weight from the front end. Your front end will LOVE it! A set of QA1's for the front will run around $350 or so with springs (get the 275lbers)

couldn't agree more!

[AChotrod]

It sounds like u would have enough there! I've done pretty much everything except cut the front fender wells, i don't wnt my car to come up any higher:secret:

Your an asss! :secret:

[AChotrod]

Alright shocks and lightweight batt it is! Im picking up a DD tomorrow so im not to worried about the batt. And the car will be retired from the rough street life it has now:jest:
I want the car to look bone stock in and out:secret: