Stock oil pan on Stroker (383)

[Fastbird]

Anyone done it? I'm looking at things, and the BMR K-Member coupled with the HUGE sump on the Milodon Oil Pan (Same as the Canton everyone uses) is causing a horrible pinch point where the gap between the drivers side mount bracket and forward corner of the pan sump is. Was looking at it, and a stock pan would be a TREMENDOUS asset here.

Anyone done this, what's the clearance like, ect..........

[95formula383lt1]

i have one with a stock pan, u can see where the crank slapped it in areas though. im going to continue to use it just going to beat it out with a hammer a lil more

waittt i mean my motor is stock :secret:

[Fastbird]

Awesome. Stock windage tray too? What crank and rods/bolts are you using? That might have some bearing too.

[95formula383lt1]

at this time no windage tray being i have 2 bolt studded mains, and havent looked into adding a windage tray yet. that will be a thread here pretty soon.

[95formula383lt1]

eagle crank forged 4340 3.750 stroke, forged eagle h beams 5.7. arp studded mains.

[n2ocamaro]

My engine builder had to beat on mine to get it to clear, now it seeps oil in a few places. I really want to switch it out for a Canton now.

[Fastbird]

My engine builder had to beat on mine to get it to clear, now it seeps oil in a few places. I really want to switch it out for a Canton now.

What was your crank/rods/bolts setup? I know that some stuff has more clearance than others. Case in point, my 355 that I had in my old black car had eagle H-Beams with ARP-2000 rod bolts and the stock pan required clearancing for that. Now in my current motor I have a Lunati Sledgehammer crank and Lunati Pro-Billet rods with ARP bolts.

[1963SS]

I've got a stock pan on the Impala 383. Eagle crank and rods, ARP bolts and I had to grind a wee bit on a couple of the bolts. Nothing that affects a socket from doing its job though. Works fine. The stock pan had some clearance issues. Toward the front I believe #2 was hitting the pan a little bit. Slap some grease on the pan and rotate it by hand and it'll be visible. I used a small alignment tool (hammer and a block of wood) to give me the clearance I needed. Also the radius of the pan where it goes down from the oil pan seal was barely hitting on #7. I used a little heat and a small 4 oz hammer to flatten the radius a little. That solved theat issue.

After I started the car I had to pull the pan off twice to fix both of these areas but it was an Impala so it wasn't too bad. Good luck.

[Fastbird]

Well, I found the clearance issue with my setup so I'm looking for a local guy to help me out with some welding and fixin' so I might not have to pluck and change everything............hopefully.

[RamAir95TA]

Sean, I guess you aren't still in NJ, right?

[Fastbird]

Ah.....no. not since 2007. Should have never left though.

[n2ocamaro]

What was your crank/rods/bolts setup? I know that some stuff has more clearance than others. Case in point, my 355 that I had in my old black car had eagle H-Beams with ARP-2000 rod bolts and the stock pan required clearancing for that. Now in my current motor I have a Lunati Sledgehammer crank and Lunati Pro-Billet rods with ARP bolts.

Its a Scat 4340 crank and Scat H-beams with ARP rod bolts.

[jakesz28]

I like the B&B pan I got from jegs.

trap doors windage screen and not a wide as the canton pan.