Walk me through nitrous

[LT1B4C]

I'm interested in running a 150 shot. Can someone walk me through what all is needed. Mod's I have done are, cc306, bolt ons, MSD 6al, MSD 2 step. I don't know anything about it and I would like to know whats needed. Things I dont know are, window switch? I was thing about a plate kit or something. Help me out with the fuel system too, why is an extra 2 or 3 gallon tank needed? Thanks John

[TorqueAddict]

Whats up man, me and you have basically the same setup cam and all. I'd recommend getting a kit from nitrous outlet. I'm runnin a Brand X single nozzle kit on a 100 shot and very happy with it. You'll need a bottle heater to keep consistent pressure(makes for consistent horsepower every spray), a purge kit to remove air fro the lines, and i would recommed a window switch for safety reasons so that it doesn't spray until set rpm range. Definately check out http://nitrousoutlet.com/ for all your stuff.

[Grant@nitrodaves]

A separate fuel tank is for large shots (200+hp) that the intank fuel pump cant keep up with. You can also run a much better fuel in the additional (dedicated) fuel system just when using the nitrous. Also for nozzles or plates, you can adjust the fuel pressure to fine tune your A/F ratio instead of changing jets.

Not all window switches are created equal. Our Dual Stage window switch (http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/catalog/product.asp?category=26&section=86&group=125&product=964) is digitally programmed, has the window of rpm in which you set lower rpm activation and high rpm deactivation. this turns off the nitrous for shifts etc. Can activate the nitrous based on TPS sensor reading or regular WOT switch and has multi-gear lockout for traction issues.

We also have a Progressive controller (http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/catalog/product.asp?category=26&section=84&group=503&product=4004) with all the same features as our window switch, just in a Single Stage.

You will also need to be able to retard ignition timing and dynotune/drivetune with a wideband O2 sensor is a very good idea.

If you need any more insight feel free to post or PM.

[LT1B4C]

thanks for the responses guys. so all i would need to do is purchase a plate kit, bottle warmer, bigger injectors, and have the ecm retuned? Im trying to think how a window switch would be wired in. I like the idea of selecting when it activates, and deactivates through a controller. Im guessing it just sends a signal to the solenoids to activate, and then kills the current to deactivate and is run off of rpm? I spose in order to do that you could tap into the tach output on the 6al and splice it with the tach?

It sounds like i don't need to worry about the extra fuel i just want to deal with a 150 shot for now.

Also could someone elaborate on how to retard the ignition? Im guessing someone also makes a box that takes care of that as well?

[TorqueAddict]

you can pull timing through tuning the ecu

[LT1B4C]

you can pull timing through tuning the ecu

Right but im sure you dont want time pulled all the time would you? just when the nitrous is sprayed....

[n2ocamaro]

thanks for the responses guys. so all i would need to do is purchase a plate kit, bottle warmer, bigger injectors, and have the ecm retuned? Im trying to think how a window switch would be wired in. I like the idea of selecting when it activates, and deactivates through a controller. Im guessing it just sends a signal to the solenoids to activate, and then kills the current to deactivate and is run off of rpm? I spose in order to do that you could tap into the tach output on the 6al and splice it with the tach?

It sounds like i don't need to worry about the extra fuel i just want to deal with a 150 shot for now.

Also could someone elaborate on how to retard the ignition? Im guessing someone also makes a box that takes care of that as well?
You do not need bigger injectors for a wet kit (one that sprays nitrous and fuel from the plate). Yes the window switch will need a RPM reference signal. As far as extra fuel, do have a stock fuel pump or a upgraded intank pump? If you are stock, you will probably want to upgrade to a bigger intank pump like a Walbro 255lph. Ignition retard can be handled with a seperate control box (like a MSD Multi-Step Retard) or a ignition box that has built in retard. You can also set up a seperate tune for the PCM that has timing taken out, but that means you have to load a tune everytime you want to use the bottle and put the regular tune back in afterwards.

[gregrob]

I love my Mallory 685 box. Its a 2 step, window switch, Rev limiter, ignition box, start retard, and selectable retard box all in one. The power to my noids triggers the selectable retard so the timing is pulled automatically when I spray.

Something no one as mentioned is you need a colder plug. Something like the NGK TR6 works great for a lot of folks, but if you'd rather have a non projected tip plug then opt for smethong like the BR7EF.

Main thing is pull timing, have adequate fuel system, the right plugs, and don't get greedy.

[Joker Z28]

and 92/93 octane

[gregrob]

True, but he should be running that all the time regardless.

[Joker Z28]

True, but he should be running that all the time regardless.

Should being the key word, I know not everyone does. But with nitrous I see it as a must.

[LT1B4C]

I love my Mallory 685 box. Its a 2 step, window switch, Rev limiter, ignition box, start retard, and selectable retard box all in one. The power to my noids triggers the selectable retard so the timing is pulled automatically when I spray.

Something no one as mentioned is you need a colder plug. Something like the NGK TR6 works great for a lot of folks, but if you'd rather have a non projected tip plug then opt for smethong like the BR7EF.

Main thing is pull timing, have adequate fuel system, the right plugs, and don't get greedy.

Mallory box sounds like a pretty sweet setup, since I already purchased all my msd stuff its too late to switch over, so I have to come up with another method.

I run 94 sunoco since day one.