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  1. #181
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    Paul Edwards
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    1993 Camaro Z28
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2fast4u88 View Post
    I'm unemployed too and did it lol no excuse. Now that 383 I am going to bet had tighter tolerances than stock. Which isn't real good to compare off of. My 383 was down to the copper after someone drove it with no oil pressure. Not me though. After the problem was fixed it carried find oil pressure but I had it redone. The bearings were trashed. Stock bearings have no copper from what I could tell from the ones I took out.

    So even though they look fine to the eye doesn't mean they are. I still say there is something wrong with the pump.
    thank you (for the statement i made in bold) yea stock ones dont have copper. my 383 had clevitte 77 h bearings im not so sure it was the tolerances but more of trash going thru it. it was a boost motor even the cam bearings look trashed in it crank has no marks on it or anything just all the bearings look like crap. His problem is in the pump like u and i both said. hes finding huge aluminum chunks in the pan just i as i did when the valve spring retainers ate the rockers up.

    chris if u wanna spend the money an rebuild ur motor then do it. ur issue isnt ur bearings though its ur tired pump. so if ur putting new bearings in it to fix ur low oil psi problem its not going to happen.

    1995 Formula 383/t56 gone
    1993 Camaro Z28, forged, TFS heads, solid roller, prosystems carbed, t56 swapped spec 3+
    "Nitrous is like Tara Reid with an STD. You want to hit it, but your afraid of the consequences"

  2. #182
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    Well my crank and stuff was fine also. Just the bearings. Same bearings and was a 383 boost motor.

    Now bearings will wear. So he will gain oil pressure from them. So that isn't true. Even with a weak pump. If it was me I would change out the mains and rodss since he is already going in there and been in there. Just because and he would have like 40/50 buxs in them. I wouldn't bother with the cam bearings as the motor will need took apart a good bit. Can't do them really if at all in the car.

    Now both that stock pump and high volume could be trash. If it sucked up metal. In which the metal was harder than the pump gears or just at hard. It could have chipped or broke on which will cause low pressure to. That is why I said to take them apart.

    I will say this though. The bearings will wear out before the pump from what I have seen alot. Both stock pumps I have look pretty good to fine for the miles. One with 130k other with 102k.

    Now I still say it sounds like it may be the pump and by the looks of it also. But I am going to bet the bearings and bad pump is the total cause. Not just one but both. No hard feelings though. But that one bearing he posted looks like it may be reading to spin. Unless my screen is playing tricks.

    1995 T/A M6: T-Tops,388 Eagle Forged Fully Built Stroker,Procharged at 12lb'z(Currently Down)
    1995 T/A M6:Hard Top Stock bottom end. cc502 and P&p heads. With some other stuff.

  3. #183
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2fast4u88 View Post
    Well my crank and stuff was fine also. Just the bearings. Same bearings and was a 383 boost motor.

    Now bearings will wear. So he will gain oil pressure from them. So that isn't true. Even with a weak pump. If it was me I would change out the mains and rodss since he is already going in there and been in there. Just because and he would have like 40/50 buxs in them. I wouldn't bother with the cam bearings as the motor will need took apart a good bit. Can't do them really if at all in the car.

    Now both that stock pump and high volume could be trash. If it sucked up metal. In which the metal was harder than the pump gears or just at hard. It could have chipped or broke on which will cause low pressure to. That is why I said to take them apart.

    I will say this though. The bearings will wear out before the pump from what I have seen alot. Both stock pumps I have look pretty good to fine for the miles. One with 130k other with 102k.

    Now I still say it sounds like it may be the pump and by the looks of it also. But I am going to bet the bearings and bad pump is the total cause. Not just one but both. No hard feelings though. But that one bearing he posted looks like it may be reading to spin. Unless my screen is playing tricks.
    well thanks for the advice... we are pulling the motor apart tomarrow to see what is going on.. i have mains and rod bearings. While the motor is out we are going to look at the cam bearings also i will most likey be replaceing them while i have it out. Thanks again for all the leeds... You have helped so much. thanks again.. will be posting pix while doing this.

  4. #184
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    If you are pulling it do the cam bearings and freeze plugs. Takes a whole 30mins if that.

    1995 T/A M6: T-Tops,388 Eagle Forged Fully Built Stroker,Procharged at 12lb'z(Currently Down)
    1995 T/A M6:Hard Top Stock bottom end. cc502 and P&p heads. With some other stuff.

  5. #185
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2fast4u88 View Post
    If you are pulling it do the cam bearings and freeze plugs. Takes a whole 30mins if that.
    well got the motor all apart down to nonthing in the block at all.. found that i had all the cam bearings to be trashed. 1 of them was not even in the block, another was seized to the cam but me and a buddy of mine paul removed it. got the cam out looks ok.. needs to be cleanded up tho. the rods and mains look worse then when i took the pix. so i will be replaceing the the bearings.. have to get the blocked hot tanked first. thanks again for all the help.. thanks paul for comming over and giveing a hand.

  6. #186
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    these are pix of the cam with only 45 to an hr of run time and the stock bearings.. bad huh! bearins i have not cut off of the cam.
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