Become a ltxtech.com member, Click here to register!
SSS

Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123
Results 21 to 30 of 30

Thread: Help!!!

  1. #21
    LTX Regular


    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Name
    Chris
    Vehicle
    1995 Mystic z28
    Posts
    444

    Default

    I have a theory and I hope it's plausible and ends up being the root cause.

    Is it possible the starter has a bad motor that is putting far too much of a draw on the electrical system when engaged and not allowing it to allow proper spark during cranking?

    The reason I ask is this: I can get about 1-2 cranking sessions of about 8-12 seconds before I need to recharge the battery. Yesterday after about the third session, the starter began making the dreaded high pitched noise. Additionally, that starter sat there for God knows how long while I changed motor mounts and the cam. This would answer why voltage is correct, fuel pressure is correct (before my gauge went tits up), and all checks out normal with KoEo but I get no start.
    95 Mystic Z28, 17x9 FR, 17x11 RR ZR-1's, Pacesetter LT's and Y-pipe, Borla adjustable, Moroso CAI, 2800 Stall, AC Delete, and Cracked Dash/broken lid Mod.

  2. #22
    LTx Guru


    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Name
    Fred
    Vehicle
    1994 Formula - SOLD
    Location
    Central NJ
    Posts
    2,279

    Default

    Is possible. After my stroker was complete, seemed to extend the cranking tine quite a bit. A assumed it was just a function of the engine build and the aftermarket ECU. The shop assured me it was taking less torque to start the stroker than the stock engine. I upgraded the stock starter (which had been replaced under warranty at about 30K miles) to a CVR Pro-Torque starter and it returned to the almost instantaneous start that was normal for a healthy LT1. But, problem was extended cranking, not "no start". I think the heat from my headers had toasted the stock starter.

    What is the system voltage on the dash gauge when the starter is cranking the engine?
    SOLD - GONE TO A (VERY) GOOD HOME ! - 94 Formula A3+1: 381ci forged stroker - Callies Stealth, Oliver 5.85 billet rods, BME nitrous pistons / CNC LT4 heads / CC solid roller / TH400+GearVendors OD / 4.11 Strange 12-bolt / 300-shot N2O / Spohn Suspension / roll bar / MoTeC M48 Pro engine management system /a few other odds 'n ends.

  3. #23
    LTX Regular


    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Name
    Chris
    Vehicle
    1995 Mystic z28
    Posts
    444

    Default

    It drops considerably. From the 12-13 down into the 6-8.

    I pulled the rail and physically verified the spray pulses as it cranked.

    After I rent/buy the pressure gauge and new starter, I'll give a better update.

    I switched to a 93 intake and rails plus a 52mm TB when I did the cam but everything appears sealed and functional.

    We will see where it goes.
    95 Mystic Z28, 17x9 FR, 17x11 RR ZR-1's, Pacesetter LT's and Y-pipe, Borla adjustable, Moroso CAI, 2800 Stall, AC Delete, and Cracked Dash/broken lid Mod.

  4. #24
    VIP Member


    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Name
    Mark
    Vehicle
    1993 Camaro Z28, 2005 Chevy Silverado 3500 Crew cab dually, 2005 GMC Yukon Denali
    Location
    Altoona, PA
    Posts
    809

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by donfrye View Post
    Ok, so here's an update:

    Have fuel. Have injectors firing. Have changed plugs.

    As the pic shows, timing at chain is on. Plug wires are correct order.

    Motor now tries to turn over first two rotations or so. I have likely destroyed my starter cranking.

    I'm going to grab a better fuel pressure test kit at AZ this weekend and see what the cranking pressure drops to. Mine now fills with fuel after a few seconds and goes everywhere.
    Just to clarify, timing marks are correct as seen in your picture and at that alignment position you are at TDC on number 6 cylinder. I’m asking if you verified that the distributor rotor was aligned with the number 6 terminal position on the cap. It’s is possible to install an opti wrong. If you google it many people have done it. Just making sure you checked everything. I attached a picture below.



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Stock bottom end, Impala head gaskets, Stock heads w/stage 2 port polish Comp beehive springs, Crane 1.6 RR's, Thunder Racing cam, Cloyes Billet True Roller TC, Long tubes, custom true dual 3" w/X-pipe, Ported intake with 58mm TB, 36lb injectors, PCMforless chip, Tick Performance stage 3 M6, Strange S60 4:10's True Trac 35 spline axles, MSD complete Ignition system, Summit electric water pump and a ton of other upgrades.

  5. #25
    VIP Member


    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Name
    Mark
    Vehicle
    1993 Camaro Z28, 2005 Chevy Silverado 3500 Crew cab dually, 2005 GMC Yukon Denali
    Location
    Altoona, PA
    Posts
    809

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 1QUICKZ28 View Post
    Just to clarify, timing marks are correct as seen in your picture and at that alignment position you are at TDC on number 6 cylinder. I’m asking if you verified that the distributor rotor was aligned with the number 6 terminal position on the cap. It’s is possible to install an opti wrong. If you google it many people have done it. Just making sure you checked everything. I attached a picture below.



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    And yes, a starter going bad that spins slower will pull more amps from the battery and this creates more heat in the starter. It basically fries the starter. 100% Fully charged battery Is 12.6-12.7 volts. 11.9 to 12 volts is at zero percent state of charge. So cranking a vehicle with the battery in a low state of charge can and will damage the starter over time. Remember Amps starts a car not volts. As the starter spins slower it pulls more amps to which will drop the voltage. This will affect electrical devices in a car.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Stock bottom end, Impala head gaskets, Stock heads w/stage 2 port polish Comp beehive springs, Crane 1.6 RR's, Thunder Racing cam, Cloyes Billet True Roller TC, Long tubes, custom true dual 3" w/X-pipe, Ported intake with 58mm TB, 36lb injectors, PCMforless chip, Tick Performance stage 3 M6, Strange S60 4:10's True Trac 35 spline axles, MSD complete Ignition system, Summit electric water pump and a ton of other upgrades.

  6. #26
    LTx Guru


    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Name
    Fred
    Vehicle
    1994 Formula - SOLD
    Location
    Central NJ
    Posts
    2,279

    Default

    6-8 volts while cranking is not adequate for the PCM. Voltage that low will set a code. With low voltage, the injectors and fuel pump get lazy, coil may not generate required voltage for a decent spark.

    Try starting with a jumper battery in parallel with vehicle battery. Don’t overdo it.... high amps will start damaging wires and contacts.
    SOLD - GONE TO A (VERY) GOOD HOME ! - 94 Formula A3+1: 381ci forged stroker - Callies Stealth, Oliver 5.85 billet rods, BME nitrous pistons / CNC LT4 heads / CC solid roller / TH400+GearVendors OD / 4.11 Strange 12-bolt / 300-shot N2O / Spohn Suspension / roll bar / MoTeC M48 Pro engine management system /a few other odds 'n ends.

  7. #27
    Lurker


    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    250

    Default

    Op

    your battery may just be to tired now, especially after sitting during the cam swap time, to hold a charge and put up with extended cranking time.

    Also if your battery cables are original...consider replacing with better than stock ones

    Sounds like the starter may have fell victim to this situation.

    Many, including me, got the "corvette" starter. It is a gear reduction type, smaller and cheaper than a stock one. Autozone is where I got mine. Given the starters look different...might want to return your "core" a day later
    96 BBB 383/T56

  8. #28
    LTX Regular


    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Name
    Chris
    Vehicle
    1995 Mystic z28
    Posts
    444

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Injuneer View Post
    6-8 volts while cranking is not adequate for the PCM. Voltage that low will set a code. With low voltage, the injectors and fuel pump get lazy, coil may not generate required voltage for a decent spark.

    Try starting with a jumper battery in parallel with vehicle battery. Don’t overdo it.... high amps will start damaging wires and contacts.
    I've been using a charger with a jump setting along with it. Are you saying to wire in another battery or would running another car in a "jump" capacity suffice?

    I'm not sure that starter is going to have too many more cycles left in it now.

    BTW, thanks to everyone for taking the time to respond. It means a lot.
    95 Mystic Z28, 17x9 FR, 17x11 RR ZR-1's, Pacesetter LT's and Y-pipe, Borla adjustable, Moroso CAI, 2800 Stall, AC Delete, and Cracked Dash/broken lid Mod.

  9. #29
    LTx Guru


    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Name
    Fred
    Vehicle
    1994 Formula - SOLD
    Location
    Central NJ
    Posts
    2,279

    Default

    Just "jump" the battery with cables from another car with a healthy battery, engine running. This is just a quick test to see if keeping the voltage high helps it start.
    SOLD - GONE TO A (VERY) GOOD HOME ! - 94 Formula A3+1: 381ci forged stroker - Callies Stealth, Oliver 5.85 billet rods, BME nitrous pistons / CNC LT4 heads / CC solid roller / TH400+GearVendors OD / 4.11 Strange 12-bolt / 300-shot N2O / Spohn Suspension / roll bar / MoTeC M48 Pro engine management system /a few other odds 'n ends.

  10. #30
    LTX Regular


    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Name
    Chris
    Vehicle
    1995 Mystic z28
    Posts
    444

    Default

    Update:

    Starts and runs with the tps unplugged. Buying a new one and then cleaning up all the crap I tore apart troubleshooting. Yay.

    I did replace the starter and battery btw.

    Thanks so much, again, for the help.
    95 Mystic Z28, 17x9 FR, 17x11 RR ZR-1's, Pacesetter LT's and Y-pipe, Borla adjustable, Moroso CAI, 2800 Stall, AC Delete, and Cracked Dash/broken lid Mod.

  11. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to donfrye For This Post:


Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •