- Navigation
Results 21 to 30 of 30
Thread: Help!!!
-
03-23-2018, 06:05 AM #21
I have a theory and I hope it's plausible and ends up being the root cause.
Is it possible the starter has a bad motor that is putting far too much of a draw on the electrical system when engaged and not allowing it to allow proper spark during cranking?
The reason I ask is this: I can get about 1-2 cranking sessions of about 8-12 seconds before I need to recharge the battery. Yesterday after about the third session, the starter began making the dreaded high pitched noise. Additionally, that starter sat there for God knows how long while I changed motor mounts and the cam. This would answer why voltage is correct, fuel pressure is correct (before my gauge went tits up), and all checks out normal with KoEo but I get no start.95 Mystic Z28, 17x9 FR, 17x11 RR ZR-1's, Pacesetter LT's and Y-pipe, Borla adjustable, Moroso CAI, 2800 Stall, AC Delete, and Cracked Dash/broken lid Mod.
-
03-23-2018, 07:29 AM #22LTx Guru
- Status
- Offline
- Join Date
- Apr 2013
- Name
- Fred
- Vehicle
- 1994 Formula - SOLD
- Location
- Central NJ
- Posts
- 2,279
Is possible. After my stroker was complete, seemed to extend the cranking tine quite a bit. A assumed it was just a function of the engine build and the aftermarket ECU. The shop assured me it was taking less torque to start the stroker than the stock engine. I upgraded the stock starter (which had been replaced under warranty at about 30K miles) to a CVR Pro-Torque starter and it returned to the almost instantaneous start that was normal for a healthy LT1. But, problem was extended cranking, not "no start". I think the heat from my headers had toasted the stock starter.
What is the system voltage on the dash gauge when the starter is cranking the engine?SOLD - GONE TO A (VERY) GOOD HOME ! - 94 Formula A3+1: 381ci forged stroker - Callies Stealth, Oliver 5.85 billet rods, BME nitrous pistons / CNC LT4 heads / CC solid roller / TH400+GearVendors OD / 4.11 Strange 12-bolt / 300-shot N2O / Spohn Suspension / roll bar / MoTeC M48 Pro engine management system /a few other odds 'n ends.
-
03-23-2018, 09:52 AM #23
It drops considerably. From the 12-13 down into the 6-8.
I pulled the rail and physically verified the spray pulses as it cranked.
After I rent/buy the pressure gauge and new starter, I'll give a better update.
I switched to a 93 intake and rails plus a 52mm TB when I did the cam but everything appears sealed and functional.
We will see where it goes.95 Mystic Z28, 17x9 FR, 17x11 RR ZR-1's, Pacesetter LT's and Y-pipe, Borla adjustable, Moroso CAI, 2800 Stall, AC Delete, and Cracked Dash/broken lid Mod.
-
03-23-2018, 10:09 AM #24VIP Member
- Status
- Offline
- Join Date
- Dec 2011
- Name
- Mark
- Vehicle
- 1993 Camaro Z28, 2005 Chevy Silverado 3500 Crew cab dually, 2005 GMC Yukon Denali
- Location
- Altoona, PA
- Posts
- 809
Just to clarify, timing marks are correct as seen in your picture and at that alignment position you are at TDC on number 6 cylinder. I’m asking if you verified that the distributor rotor was aligned with the number 6 terminal position on the cap. It’s is possible to install an opti wrong. If you google it many people have done it. Just making sure you checked everything. I attached a picture below.
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkStock bottom end, Impala head gaskets, Stock heads w/stage 2 port polish Comp beehive springs, Crane 1.6 RR's, Thunder Racing cam, Cloyes Billet True Roller TC, Long tubes, custom true dual 3" w/X-pipe, Ported intake with 58mm TB, 36lb injectors, PCMforless chip, Tick Performance stage 3 M6, Strange S60 4:10's True Trac 35 spline axles, MSD complete Ignition system, Summit electric water pump and a ton of other upgrades.
-
03-23-2018, 10:27 AM #25VIP Member
- Status
- Offline
- Join Date
- Dec 2011
- Name
- Mark
- Vehicle
- 1993 Camaro Z28, 2005 Chevy Silverado 3500 Crew cab dually, 2005 GMC Yukon Denali
- Location
- Altoona, PA
- Posts
- 809
And yes, a starter going bad that spins slower will pull more amps from the battery and this creates more heat in the starter. It basically fries the starter. 100% Fully charged battery Is 12.6-12.7 volts. 11.9 to 12 volts is at zero percent state of charge. So cranking a vehicle with the battery in a low state of charge can and will damage the starter over time. Remember Amps starts a car not volts. As the starter spins slower it pulls more amps to which will drop the voltage. This will affect electrical devices in a car.
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkStock bottom end, Impala head gaskets, Stock heads w/stage 2 port polish Comp beehive springs, Crane 1.6 RR's, Thunder Racing cam, Cloyes Billet True Roller TC, Long tubes, custom true dual 3" w/X-pipe, Ported intake with 58mm TB, 36lb injectors, PCMforless chip, Tick Performance stage 3 M6, Strange S60 4:10's True Trac 35 spline axles, MSD complete Ignition system, Summit electric water pump and a ton of other upgrades.
-
03-23-2018, 10:52 AM #26LTx Guru
- Status
- Offline
- Join Date
- Apr 2013
- Name
- Fred
- Vehicle
- 1994 Formula - SOLD
- Location
- Central NJ
- Posts
- 2,279
6-8 volts while cranking is not adequate for the PCM. Voltage that low will set a code. With low voltage, the injectors and fuel pump get lazy, coil may not generate required voltage for a decent spark.
Try starting with a jumper battery in parallel with vehicle battery. Don’t overdo it.... high amps will start damaging wires and contacts.SOLD - GONE TO A (VERY) GOOD HOME ! - 94 Formula A3+1: 381ci forged stroker - Callies Stealth, Oliver 5.85 billet rods, BME nitrous pistons / CNC LT4 heads / CC solid roller / TH400+GearVendors OD / 4.11 Strange 12-bolt / 300-shot N2O / Spohn Suspension / roll bar / MoTeC M48 Pro engine management system /a few other odds 'n ends.
-
03-23-2018, 11:02 AM #27
Op
your battery may just be to tired now, especially after sitting during the cam swap time, to hold a charge and put up with extended cranking time.
Also if your battery cables are original...consider replacing with better than stock ones
Sounds like the starter may have fell victim to this situation.
Many, including me, got the "corvette" starter. It is a gear reduction type, smaller and cheaper than a stock one. Autozone is where I got mine. Given the starters look different...might want to return your "core" a day later96 BBB 383/T56
-
03-23-2018, 11:47 AM #28
I've been using a charger with a jump setting along with it. Are you saying to wire in another battery or would running another car in a "jump" capacity suffice?
I'm not sure that starter is going to have too many more cycles left in it now.
BTW, thanks to everyone for taking the time to respond. It means a lot.95 Mystic Z28, 17x9 FR, 17x11 RR ZR-1's, Pacesetter LT's and Y-pipe, Borla adjustable, Moroso CAI, 2800 Stall, AC Delete, and Cracked Dash/broken lid Mod.
-
03-23-2018, 04:30 PM #29LTx Guru
- Status
- Offline
- Join Date
- Apr 2013
- Name
- Fred
- Vehicle
- 1994 Formula - SOLD
- Location
- Central NJ
- Posts
- 2,279
Just "jump" the battery with cables from another car with a healthy battery, engine running. This is just a quick test to see if keeping the voltage high helps it start.
SOLD - GONE TO A (VERY) GOOD HOME ! - 94 Formula A3+1: 381ci forged stroker - Callies Stealth, Oliver 5.85 billet rods, BME nitrous pistons / CNC LT4 heads / CC solid roller / TH400+GearVendors OD / 4.11 Strange 12-bolt / 300-shot N2O / Spohn Suspension / roll bar / MoTeC M48 Pro engine management system /a few other odds 'n ends.
-
04-02-2018, 06:10 PM #30
Update:
Starts and runs with the tps unplugged. Buying a new one and then cleaning up all the crap I tore apart troubleshooting. Yay.
I did replace the starter and battery btw.
Thanks so much, again, for the help.95 Mystic Z28, 17x9 FR, 17x11 RR ZR-1's, Pacesetter LT's and Y-pipe, Borla adjustable, Moroso CAI, 2800 Stall, AC Delete, and Cracked Dash/broken lid Mod.
-
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to donfrye For This Post:
Bookmarks