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  1. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by Injuneer View Post
    Several GM online parts dealers list this part:

    https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/oem-pa...lator-10290379
    Thanks! Just ordered these as the entire rear suspension seems rather worn. Gonna get it all redone and still playing around with which rear shock/spring I am going to go with. To keep it cheap I might try out the Summit drag shocks and V6 springs

  2. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by Injuneer View Post
    Several GM online parts dealers list this part:

    https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/oem-pa...lator-10290379
    Double post

  3. #53
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    A 295/50-15 will fit better on a 10” wide wheel. Typical recommended wheel width is 8.0” to 10.5”.

    I run 10”wide 7.5” backspace Weld Pro-Stars, with 28x10.5-15W ET Drags. That's a 13.1” section width. Nothing rubs. The inner wheel wells have been hammered slightly, to clear my street tires 315/35-17 BFG Drag Radials on 17x11” 7.93” backspace wheels. As I mentioned, I cut the protruding edge of the stock jounce bomber brackets to prevent the bracket from catching the inside of the rim when I jack the car and the axle drops. The red poly jounce bumpers you are looking at may be larger than stock, because they are actually Energy Suspension pieces intended for a Jeep. But they also bolt on a 4th Gen F-Body.

    Also carefully centered the body side-to-side over the rear axle with an adjustable panhard rod. All was good, except on really hard shifts (car was originally a T56 w/ McLeod Street Twin) the body would torque sideways, and the edge of the fender lip would rub on on tire. So I rolled the inner edge of the fender lip.

    Back of the car does sit about 1/2” higher than stock due to the Eibach Drag Launch springs. Minimum squat because of the springs, QA1 shocks and LCA relo brackets.

    I can post some pics of where the slicks/10” wheels sit with reference to the fender.
    SOLD - GONE TO A (VERY) GOOD HOME ! - 94 Formula A3+1: 381ci forged stroker - Callies Stealth, Oliver 5.85 billet rods, BME nitrous pistons / CNC LT4 heads / CC solid roller / TH400+GearVendors OD / 4.11 Strange 12-bolt / 300-shot N2O / Spohn Suspension / roll bar / MoTeC M48 Pro engine management system /a few other odds 'n ends.

  4. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by Falco78 View Post
    Thanks! Just ordered these as the entire rear suspension seems rather worn. Gonna get it all redone and still playing around with which rear shock/spring I am going to go with. To keep it cheap I might try out the Summit drag shocks and V6 springs
    Stock springs may be fine. I only have the Eibach Drag Launch springs because a buddy of mine was running them on his 97 30th SS Camaro, and the suspension guys who knew what they were doing told him he should put his stock springs back in. We swapped, and with my stock Formula springs he was eventually running ~8.3@166 MPH with a 1.2x 60-ft. (not an LT1 engine at that point).
    SOLD - GONE TO A (VERY) GOOD HOME ! - 94 Formula A3+1: 381ci forged stroker - Callies Stealth, Oliver 5.85 billet rods, BME nitrous pistons / CNC LT4 heads / CC solid roller / TH400+GearVendors OD / 4.11 Strange 12-bolt / 300-shot N2O / Spohn Suspension / roll bar / MoTeC M48 Pro engine management system /a few other odds 'n ends.

  5. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by Injuneer View Post
    A 295/50-15 will fit better on a 10” wide wheel. Typical recommended wheel width is 8.0” to 10.5”.

    I run 10”wide 7.5” backspace Weld Pro-Stars, with 28x10.5-15W ET Drags. That's a 13.1” section width. Nothing rubs. The inner wheel wells have been hammered slightly, to clear my street tires 315/35-17 BFG Drag Radials on 17x11” 7.93” backspace wheels. As I mentioned, I cut the protruding edge of the stock jounce bomber brackets to prevent the bracket from catching the inside of the rim when I jack the car and the axle drops. The red poly jounce bumpers you are looking at may be larger than stock, because they are actually Energy Suspension pieces intended for a Jeep. But they also bolt on a 4th Gen F-Body.

    Also carefully centered the body side-to-side over the rear axle with an adjustable panhard rod. All was good, except on really hard shifts (car was originally a T56 w/ McLeod Street Twin) the body would torque sideways, and the edge of the fender lip would rub on on tire. So I rolled the inner edge of the fender lip.

    Back of the car does sit about 1/2” higher than stock due to the Eibach Drag Launch springs. Minimum squat because of the springs, QA1 shocks and LCA relo brackets.

    I can post some pics of where the slicks/10” wheels sit with reference to the fender.
    So I can't get the ones I like in that exact same BS but they do have it in 7.25 and I am wondering if that would be close enough? https://www.summitracing.com/parts/r...54dp/overview/

  6. #56
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    I guess I could possibly replace the wheels, but I do like what I have now and what was hoping to just buy two new rear wheels and tires. If the 7.5 to 7.25 will make a real difference then I guess that will ve my only option. @Injuneer let me know what you think.

  7. #57
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    I just tried to upload the photos of my setup, with profiles at the edge of the fenders, and the photos appear to "upload", but I just get a box with the photo number in it, and no actual photo. One of five photos showed up when I did a preview post. Been having a problem with this site for a couple months.

    My thought was that the small 1/4" difference in backspace is not going to make much difference - it moves the wheel/tire outward by 1/4" in theory, but your 295 tires are narrower than my 10.5 15W slicks. Should not rub. But keep in mind, I'm assuming a Firebird fender profile is similar to the Camaro profile.

    Another thing I have run into trying to help people with wheel/tire fitment - the assembly tolerances of these cars seem to be all over the place. I've posted what I had to do to fit 315's, and others have told me they had the same setup, and didn't have to do anything with the inner fenders, cutting the jounce bumper brackets, etc. On the other hand, when I told someone that I could fit a Hoosier QTP 26x11.5-15 with no problems other than hammering the inner fenders, another person posted with the exact same setup he actually had to completely cut out the inner fenders, including the jounce bumpers and the sheet metal that supports them.
    SOLD - GONE TO A (VERY) GOOD HOME ! - 94 Formula A3+1: 381ci forged stroker - Callies Stealth, Oliver 5.85 billet rods, BME nitrous pistons / CNC LT4 heads / CC solid roller / TH400+GearVendors OD / 4.11 Strange 12-bolt / 300-shot N2O / Spohn Suspension / roll bar / MoTeC M48 Pro engine management system /a few other odds 'n ends.

  8. #58
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    Just ordered the cable and the Tunercat software. Slowly coming along, also ordered missing interior pieces

  9. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by Injuneer View Post
    I just tried to upload the photos of my setup, with profiles at the edge of the fenders, and the photos appear to "upload", but I just get a box with the photo number in it, and no actual photo. One of five photos showed up when I did a preview post. Been having a problem with this site for a couple months.

    My thought was that the small 1/4" difference in backspace is not going to make much difference - it moves the wheel/tire outward by 1/4" in theory, but your 295 tires are narrower than my 10.5 15W slicks. Should not rub. But keep in mind, I'm assuming a Firebird fender profile is similar to the Camaro profile.

    Another thing I have run into trying to help people with wheel/tire fitment - the assembly tolerances of these cars seem to be all over the place. I've posted what I had to do to fit 315's, and others have told me they had the same setup, and didn't have to do anything with the inner fenders, cutting the jounce bumper brackets, etc. On the other hand, when I told someone that I could fit a Hoosier QTP 26x11.5-15 with no problems other than hammering the inner fenders, another person posted with the exact same setup he actually had to completely cut out the inner fenders, including the jounce bumpers and the sheet metal that supports them.
    I will order those wheels next pay day and have my hammer ready to go. Yeah my 94Z I used to have had very tight clearance but maybe GM was having an off day lol

    Sent from my N9560 using Tapatalk

  10. #60
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    I really wish I could find a junk yard locally that has anything for the interior I need. No luck so I've had to over pay for everything online

    Sent from my N9560 using Tapatalk

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