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  1. #1
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    Default Need help changing Cylinder #7 spark plug wire

    Hello, I tried a search on this topic and got no results.

    Im trying to replace a burnt plug wire, and its cylinder #7. Now, after driving onto rhino ramps I can get to the wire itself fairly easily, but theres this metal bracket holding the wire to the engine block between my exhaust manifold and the wire. I cant get the wire out of this bracket, whats the deal?

    I actually broke the old wire in half trying to wiggle it out of there, so Ive been driving around on 7 cylinders for a couple days.
    "I don't get it. I'm not exactly deaf and I've never given tire noise a second thought. So, I think the people that complain about them are: a) Suffering from hyperacusis b) Candy asses c) Still waiting to have their mufflers changed to the "real man" version" - HAHAHAHAHA quote from vmptuning on fordgt500.com

  2. #2
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by fleetfeet2004 View Post
    Hello, I tried a search on this topic and got no results.

    Im trying to replace a burnt plug wire, and its cylinder #7. Now, after driving onto rhino ramps I can get to the wire itself fairly easily, but theres this metal bracket holding the wire to the engine block between my exhaust manifold and the wire. I cant get the wire out of this bracket, whats the deal?

    I actually broke the old wire in half trying to wiggle it out of there, so Ive been driving around on 7 cylinders for a couple days.
    It's been a very long time since I've had exhaust manifolds on my car so I can't remember the bracket your talking about but, is there a way you could take off the bracket to make the wire more manageable to remove and then replace?

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
    Same as everybody else...350 small block, double hump heads, 3/4 cam

  3. #3
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    Default

    Going back 22 years on this one, but as I recall, there is a screw that holds the metal shield over the wire. It is possible to access the screw with stock manifolds. But it takes a lot of patience.
    SOLD - GONE TO A (VERY) GOOD HOME ! - 94 Formula A3+1: 381ci forged stroker - Callies Stealth, Oliver 5.85 billet rods, BME nitrous pistons / CNC LT4 heads / CC solid roller / TH400+GearVendors OD / 4.11 Strange 12-bolt / 300-shot N2O / Spohn Suspension / roll bar / MoTeC M48 Pro engine management system /a few other odds 'n ends.

  4. #4
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    Default

    Yep there's a small screw that holds the shield. It's not that difficult once you find the screw. And you just reminded me how much I hated working on the LT1 cars. I'm pretty sure I've dropped the entire drivetrain in less time than a plug wire swap took.

  5. The Following User Says Thank You to AL 9C1 For This Post:


  6. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by AL 9C1 View Post
    Yep there's a small screw that holds the shield. It's not that difficult once you find the screw. And you just reminded me how much I hated working on the LT1 cars. I'm pretty sure I've dropped the entire drivetrain in less time than a plug wire swap took.
    I have a friend who was a mechanic and if I remember correctly, he told me that the book time on plugs and wires, for my 94 Camaro, called for 8 hours! He let me use one of their lifts and it took me 6 hours on my first time. It was a pain.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
    Same as everybody else...350 small block, double hump heads, 3/4 cam

  7. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cathead View Post
    I have a friend who was a mechanic and if I remember correctly, he told me that the book time on plugs and wires, for my 94 Camaro, called for 8 hours! He let me use one of their lifts and it took me 6 hours on my first time. It was a pain.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
    Complete insanity! GM did not make our cars easy to work on that's for sure. It has been almost a decade since my last LT1 and getting the new one I forgot how miserable they made it lol

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