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Thread: Fuel pump amp draw
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09-02-2017, 12:34 PM #21
Zoo
you will find people who say "oh yeah just a switch is fine"...but most, including me, would wire a relay and fuse as the power source to a switch if that is how you intend to activate a fuel pump. Relying on the fuse to interrupt the circuit is there is a short can likely result in wire and or pump damage before the fuse blows and you will need a beefy switch to hold that kind of amp load if not using a relay
Walbro, and others, makes a low pressure inline pump more for Carb/TBI engines with a return line. It is 15-20 PSI so a adjustable FPR would knock that down to whatever your carb wants, likely around 4-7 psi. You would run a line into the tank with a sock filter on the end of it.
Without running the ECU you will need to figure out how to get a fuel gauge to work.
If you want to stay with the in tank pump you will need a adjustable FPR. I assume it would be able to adjust low enough for your carb but IDK if the high flow rate of the stock pump will put up with the FP being adjusted as low as you need it. At least a in tank pump is cooled by the surrounding fuel in the tank...unless you run the tank low on gas.96 BBB 383/T56
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09-02-2017, 04:11 PM #22LTx Guru
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Fuel gauge (94/95) is connected directly to the float level sensor in the tank, not through the PCM. 12 volts to the gauge comes from the "gages" (GM spelling) fuse. The ground for the pump and the float sensor splits in splits inside the tank. If not using the stock sending assembly, ground would need to be rewired.
Only gauges driven from the PCM are tach and speedo. I believe in response to that he indicated he would rely on his GPS for speed.SOLD - GONE TO A (VERY) GOOD HOME ! - 94 Formula A3+1: 381ci forged stroker - Callies Stealth, Oliver 5.85 billet rods, BME nitrous pistons / CNC LT4 heads / CC solid roller / TH400+GearVendors OD / 4.11 Strange 12-bolt / 300-shot N2O / Spohn Suspension / roll bar / MoTeC M48 Pro engine management system /a few other odds 'n ends.
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09-02-2017, 09:48 PM #23
Unless you've removed them already, the fuel pump relay, wiring, and fuse are already there, why redesign what works? Just run your switch to where the PCM previously provided power to the relay coil and you're done.
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09-02-2017, 10:11 PM #24The Nitrous Outlet Junkie
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Its all been removed ... I put a 5 amp fuse coming off of a switch That's rated for 20 amps wired directly into the gray wire on the relay
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09-04-2017, 08:16 PM #25
Glass fuse?
Correlation does not imply causation.
Una salus victis nullam sperare salutem
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09-04-2017, 08:43 PM #26Xtreme Member
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Do you want to burn your car to the ground cause that's where this is going. Ignoring the advise from very knowledgeable people here is incredibly poor judgement. I don't know what so called forums people have said it would be fine but I will say this "Sloppy Mechanics" still uses relays. This isn't something you fucking half ass...
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09-04-2017, 08:50 PM #27"The Rock"
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09-04-2017, 09:36 PM #28The FABRICATOR!
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I'm going to stick up for troy on this one...
While I personally wouldn't have deleted the factory fuel pump relay wiring (it was more than sufficient for this project) what he's done in this particular case is not posing this imminent danger everyone is going on about. The pump he's running, at the pressure he's running it at will not draw very much amperage, from what I've seen, less than 5 amps. The wiring from the battery source to the pump is the stock size and rated for 15 amps, as well as the switch he's using to energize the circuit. The fuse (this is the circuit protection) is a 5 amp fuse. Can anyone honestly tell me what danger this poses? If he was running a mile of 20 gauge wiring and a 30 amp fuse I would agree with you on the risk of fire.
I think the problem here is everyone feels comfortable with dogging on this guy because he puts up with it. You would think that with the rise of facebook groups we would try and be a little more cordial to people that take the time to log in to a forum.
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09-04-2017, 10:05 PM #29The Nitrous Outlet Junkie
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Thanks ... I know it's not what everyone would do ... but it's safe despite what some people thinkhttp://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/59ae1465...904_213541.mp4
Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk94 Formula "budget build" #thebeaterbird
10.177 @128.31 on a lil 250 shot
350, LT1, carb, LE grind cam, th400, 4k stall, ford 8.8 w/ 4.10s
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09-04-2017, 10:15 PM #30The Nitrous Outlet Junkie
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Another reason I deleted the relay is with the key being on the relay was seeing 8 volts and 1.25 amps. .... remember the pcm has been removed. ... so after tracing wires I couldn't find what was causing it. So just deleted it and the fuel pump only sees the 12 volts with 3.3 amps draw through the 5 amp fuse.
Sent from my SM-N910T using TapatalkLast edited by zooguy; 09-04-2017 at 10:18 PM.
94 Formula "budget build" #thebeaterbird
10.177 @128.31 on a lil 250 shot
350, LT1, carb, LE grind cam, th400, 4k stall, ford 8.8 w/ 4.10s
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