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  1. #1
    LTX Member


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    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Name
    Drew
    Vehicle
    1996 M6 Z28
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    31

    Default Battery relocation hardware

    A few years ago I relocated my battery to the spare tire area. I used 2ga welding wire at the advice of my electrical engineering professor and a 175A fuse. I've always noticed once I've driven around some and got things warm then park and go insider store when I come out to start the car it cranks slow. Yesterday when this happened the car started to turn over and then the 175A fuse blew. I sat down and did the equations myself this time and then talked to an electrical engineer at work. We both think I need a 200A fuse. He thinks I needs 000 cable and I think that's overkill. I do feel I should probably upgrade to 0 gauge. What have any of you used?


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    1996 Z28, M6, T-tops, stock rear, LE stock ported heads (not typical LE stage, it's a friend of a friend deal), Custom cam and tune from JimTune, CR 11.1, Pacesetter LT, Ram Powergrip HD, flowmaster original 40, Eiback prokit, 18" corvette black wheels from ebay, meizere electric w/p, relocated battery to spare tire well, dd with AC Delco Opti.

  2. #2
    LTX Master


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    Mar 2015
    Name
    Stormy
    Vehicle
    1995 Trans Am
    Location
    Washington
    Posts
    587

    Default

    Double 0 cable isnt too crazy. If the starter needs 200 amps to turn and the soleloid needs around 18 to engage that well heres a chart. https://www.bluesea.com/articles/1437
    If your cable is too small it can develop some heat and not blow. So I say go big and have the fuse right at the battery .



    ... on my tablet using Taptalk



    1995 Trans Am - CAI - TB coolant bypass - Performance Muffler - Poly mounts - stock LT1/A4 - 13.3 1/4 - 1.9 60 foot , driven daily. .

  3. #3
    LTX Regular


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    Mar 2010
    Name
    Sean Foster
    Vehicle
    1995 Trans Am
    Location
    Barboursville WV
    Posts
    310

    Default

    I faught that same battle for 10+ years. A few weeks ago my starter gave up the ghost. (Factory starter)

    I put a mini starter on it and its working flawless. 95* outside ac on and coolant temp was 210 i shut it off and fired it right back up like it was a cold start.

    I would replace the starter. Not saying you need a mini starter but a new one. I also got a starter heat shield wrap.
    Sean Foster
    383 AI 200cc/custom grind w/full bolton's. 4L80E w/edge 3600 stall, Moser 12 bolt w/4.10 A/C & Hitch= true street

  4. #4
    LTX Member


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    Oct 2015
    Name
    Drew
    Vehicle
    1996 M6 Z28
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    31

    Default

    Thanks for the input guys. I think I will go with larger cable as a winter project.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    1996 Z28, M6, T-tops, stock rear, LE stock ported heads (not typical LE stage, it's a friend of a friend deal), Custom cam and tune from JimTune, CR 11.1, Pacesetter LT, Ram Powergrip HD, flowmaster original 40, Eiback prokit, 18" corvette black wheels from ebay, meizere electric w/p, relocated battery to spare tire well, dd with AC Delco Opti.

  5. #5

    Default

    I fought the heat soak no start for awhile, replaced starter and battery, problem solved.

    I have 1/0 AFAIK for battery to starter, alternator to battery and alternator case to ground.

    Wiring is never bad to go overkill with.
    Correlation does not imply causation.

    Una salus victis nullam sperare salutem

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