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Thread: Starting issues

  1. #1
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    Default Starting issues

    So, I have a 94 trans am lt1 m6. I recently lost power to my radio and turn signals, but the hazard lights work. So, I replaced the turn signal flasher and still nothing. I also tested my fuses to see if there was an issue there. I noticed that my radio fuse visually looked fine, but when I used my continuity tester the light was dimmer than all the other fuses. I also unplugged the ground to the battery and noticed with the tester I was still getting power. I proceeded to remove fuse by fuse and still maintained power. Once I plugged everything back in, I went to start the engine and it now only turns over like it is about to start but won't. I double check each fuse to be thorough but still no start. I did as well notice I didn't hear the fuel pump.Any ideas?


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  2. #2
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    Confusing comment about unplugging the ground. Are you saying the ground cables (there are two ground wires) were taken TOTALLY off the negative terminal of the battery, no extraneous ground wires there for aftermarket equipment, and you still were able to measure 12 volts at the fuses? Or did you unplug some other ground?

    When measuring 12 volts at a fuse, where were you grounding the black tester lead?

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    Last edited by Injuneer; 05-02-2017 at 10:41 PM.
    SOLD - GONE TO A (VERY) GOOD HOME ! - 94 Formula A3+1: 381ci forged stroker - Callies Stealth, Oliver 5.85 billet rods, BME nitrous pistons / CNC LT4 heads / CC solid roller / TH400+GearVendors OD / 4.11 Strange 12-bolt / 300-shot N2O / Spohn Suspension / roll bar / MoTeC M48 Pro engine management system /a few other odds 'n ends.

  3. #3
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    Yes the ground was taken off of the negative terminal. I didn't use a multimeter so not sure what the volts measured. I only used the cheap 8 dollar build tester.


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    ignition switch is cooked on column I bet

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    1994 Firebird Formula 381 stroker - Carrying the torch! - 9.90 @ 134.3mph on a 200 shot

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    10.78 @ 125mph. Shooting for 9.99 for Frank Cahall!

  5. #5
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    Are you saying the ground cables (there are two ground wires) were taken TOTALLY off the negative terminal of the battery, no extraneous ground wires there for aftermarket equipment, and you still were able to measure 12 volts at the fuses?
    Yes the ground was taken off of the negative terminal.
    With no battery cable attached to the battery ground, how can there be 12 volt "power" anywhere? Unless the DERM is releasing the stored air bag energy. That's why I asked the question. Seems to defy logic. But this explains it:

    I didn't use a multimeter so not sure what the volts measured. I only used the cheap 8 dollar build ("bulb" ??) tester.
    That explains the confusion.... the continuity tester is powered typically by a AAA battery. The "power" he was getting was simply the tester being touched to both sides of the fuse, and verifying the circuit was complete. Wasn't testing power from the real battery. Simply verifying the fuses were OK.

    Since the starter is cranking, it appears that power is passing through the ignition switch, and the PASS-Key system is enabling the starter. Next stpe would be to check for spark while the engine is cranking, then check fuel pressure (he doesn't hear the pump running) and check for the injector pulse with a 'noid light.
    SOLD - GONE TO A (VERY) GOOD HOME ! - 94 Formula A3+1: 381ci forged stroker - Callies Stealth, Oliver 5.85 billet rods, BME nitrous pistons / CNC LT4 heads / CC solid roller / TH400+GearVendors OD / 4.11 Strange 12-bolt / 300-shot N2O / Spohn Suspension / roll bar / MoTeC M48 Pro engine management system /a few other odds 'n ends.

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    I just replaced a friends ignition on his w-body Monte. Had the same issue, Car would start normally but no signals, door chime, or RAP. He had replaced the ignition (some chinese ebay knock off), the BCM and frasher switch/relay with no results. I pulled the ignition and could turn the car on just my squeezing the housing. New ignition and the car is perfect again.
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    I'm speaking of the ignition switch under the dash ontop of the column, they like to melt and cause weird issies

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    2021 Charger Scat 392
    1994 Firebird Formula 381 stroker - Carrying the torch! - 9.90 @ 134.3mph on a 200 shot

    The wrench/driver for LTConvert's 94 Z28- Ellwein 383/LE Trickflows/ D1SC / CPT Ultra Pro Race 4L60E
    10.78 @ 125mph. Shooting for 9.99 for Frank Cahall!

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    I found three shorts last night in the courtesy fuse, fuse 4 and 3 ( which are headlight something or another fuses). Once I took those fuses out my left and right turn signals were working, but not the hazard lights. Car still won't start. I am going to check fuel pressure and also ignition to narrow it down later today.


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    Fuses 3 and 4.in which panel?

    Per 94 Owners Manual, end of dash 3 = HVAC switch, rear defogger; 4 = PCM BAT, Inst cluster, PASS-Key decoder module. Flasher is 2; Courtesy lights are 8; hazard is 6; radio is 17.

    If you removed fuse 4, at least one of the PCM power feeds is interrupted.

    Under hood box 3 and 4 are each for a headlight door module.
    SOLD - GONE TO A (VERY) GOOD HOME ! - 94 Formula A3+1: 381ci forged stroker - Callies Stealth, Oliver 5.85 billet rods, BME nitrous pistons / CNC LT4 heads / CC solid roller / TH400+GearVendors OD / 4.11 Strange 12-bolt / 300-shot N2O / Spohn Suspension / roll bar / MoTeC M48 Pro engine management system /a few other odds 'n ends.

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