T56 Fork suddenly hitting and clutch slipping

[popo8]

Guess this is what ur messenger message was about on fb. Ugh.

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk

[SSlowBoat]

investigation reveals a previous idiot owner did this
yeah that's the slave rod with a glob of weld on it. we ground it down and it helped a little, but still fork grinds pressure plate.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

[1QUICKZ28]

Engineering at its finest. LOL!

That may be causing it to push too far which may be the cause of the fork hitting the Pressure plate.

If I'm remembering correctly there should be a half plastic ball on the end of that. Been awhile since I had mine out. New ones have it installed and keeps rod compressed for easier install. Straps break when you first hit the clutch.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[SSlowBoat]

Engineering at its finest. LOL!

That may be causing it to push too far which may be the cause of the fork hitting the Pressure plate.

If I'm remembering correctly there should be a half plastic ball on the end of that. Been awhile since I had mine out. New ones have it installed and keeps rod compressed for easier install. Straps break when you first hit the clutch.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

we ground it down and it still hits pressure plate. plan is to order new stock replacement hydros to replace old McLeod tilton adjustable master and slave, we've surmised the system must be getting air in it and causing the slave to not release enough, thus causing clutch to only partially be engaged

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

[BALLSS]

man someone did a hack job on that slave tip

It caused the clutch to over extend so the fork would then buzz the PP

Check to confirm a PO did not also cut down the slave spacer also in whatever attempt he had in trying to get a clutch to disengage when the problem was other issues.

as noted there should be a plastic cup on the end of the slave so you don't have metal/metal contact with fork. New slave will have it which would also be "strapped" to the slave body for easy initial install. Those straps break when you push the clutch in 1st time, normal.

The Tilton McLeod used to use as a MC had issues where they leaked. The hole the fluid goes through the bore is not chamfered and rubber cup of the plunger would tear on it. McLeod now uses the Wilwood MC. Nice unit

For a single disc clutch just get stock sealed hydraulics and install as a unit

FWIW the pic in post #7 is mine. I have posted it in various threads to show difference in the 2 TO bearings. The square top one was used in vettes. I run it in my McLeod Street Twin now. It came with a Spec clutch I used to have

[SSlowBoat]

man someone did a hack job on that slave tip

It caused the clutch to over extend so the fork would then buzz the PP

Check to confirm a PO did not also cut down the slave spacer also in whatever attempt he had in trying to get a clutch to disengage when the problem was other issues.

as noted there should be a plastic cup on the end of the slave so you don't have metal/metal contact with fork. New slave will have it which would also be "strapped" to the slave body for easy initial install. Those straps break when you push the clutch in 1st time, normal.

The Tilton McLeod used to use as a MC had issues where they leaked. The hole the fluid goes through the bore is not chamfered and rubber cup of the plunger would tear on it. McLeod now uses the Wilwood MC. Nice unit

For a single disc clutch just get stock sealed hydraulics and install as a unit

FWIW the pic in post #7 is mine. I have posted it in various threads to show difference in the 2 TO bearings. The square top one was used in vettes. I run it in my McLeod Street Twin now. It came with a Spec clutch I used to have

I've seen your posts on other sites about these issues before. question, the plastic ball adds thickness. when I first installed this clutch, pedal engage and disengage was at the very very top 1" of travel.

-wouldn't the cup being on the end effectively make it nearly as long as this numnut made it with welding a glob on end?

-is it possible the slave isn't fully retracting due to an issue with the hydros and basically keeping the clutch halfway engage/disengaged hence causing slip?

we ground it down so the slave rod was the original length, and it still buzzed the flywheel. I am ordering new stock replacement pre bled hydros now, hoping to have them before weekend, and gonna try to get zoom/summit to replace the pressure plate

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

[popo8]

Is it hitting cause its bent now?

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk

[SSlowBoat]

Is it hitting cause its bent now?

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk

fork doesn't appear visibly bent or cracked.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

[BALLSS]

-wouldn't the cup being on the end effectively make it nearly as long as this numnut made it with welding a glob on end?

-is it possible the slave isn't fully retracting due to an issue with the hydros and basically keeping the clutch halfway engage/disengaged hence causing slip?

we ground it down so the slave rod was the original length, and it still buzzed the flywheel. I am ordering new stock replacement pre bled hydros now, hoping to have them before weekend, and gonna try to get zoom/summit to replace the pressure plate

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

that glob welded on end looked to be thicker than what the plastic cup is but yes it extends the length of the rod vs not having it. It is there so you don't get metal to metal contact with the fork

yes it is possible the slave is not retracting far enough from pressure the MC may be keeping on it if it has a issue

I believe that Tilton also has a adjustable rod end which may be adjusted to far out

On the McLeod Street Twin when I installed it with their larger 13/16 MC that came with it my fork buzzed the PP before full clutch disengagement. Had to take about 1/8" off the "T" stud per McLeod. You should not have to do that with a single disc clutch

I suspect your issues will be resolved with new hydraulics....assuming the fork is not bent and on the "T" stud correctly and the lip of the TO bearing is not peeling back

[SSlowBoat]

that glob welded on end looked to be thicker than what the plastic cup is but yes it extends the length of the rod vs not having it. It is there so you don't get metal to metal contact with the fork

yes it is possible the slave is not retracting far enough from pressure the MC may be keeping on it if it has a issue

I believe that Tilton also has a adjustable rod end which may be adjusted to far out

On the McLeod Street Twin when I installed it with their larger 13/16 MC that came with it my fork buzzed the PP before full clutch disengagement. Had to take about 1/8" off the "T" stud per McLeod. You should not have to do that with a single disc clutch

I suspect your issues will be resolved with new hydraulics....assuming the fork is not bent and on the "T" stud correctly and the lip of the TO bearing is not peeling back

the rod end was nearly at end, I adjusted it down and all it did was bring the pedal down. fork still buzzed it. the fork does not visibly appear bent. but I have nothing to compare it to. throw out does not appear to be peeling or failing, although I'm gonna try to order a spec or centerforce this week if I can afford it.

with the old clutch when I bought the car, the clutch was very heavy. with the new one it was like butter until this suddenly happened, now it's stiff when going thru travel, and gets to an obvious spot you can feel when the fork hits.

does anyone have a measurement of the slave spacer? we removed it and tried just barely getting the nuts on the studs for the slave to see if spacing the slave back would help, but it still did the same thing.


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk