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  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by LT1Formula97 View Post
    http://ltxtech.com/forums/showthread...t-on-new-heads

    Heres my topic from awhile back. I think we ended up agreeing that the rocker arm install was too loose causing the rocker to take off a spring retainer. So I think this is whats called a dropped valve then? I was really hoping for no damage underneath so
    Yeah, that's it

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    2021 Charger Scat 392
    1994 Firebird Formula 381 stroker - Carrying the torch! - 9.90 @ 134.3mph on a 200 shot

    The wrench/driver for LTConvert's 94 Z28- Ellwein 383/LE Trickflows/ D1SC / CPT Ultra Pro Race 4L60E
    10.78 @ 125mph. Shooting for 9.99 for Frank Cahall!

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stormyweather View Post
    Didnt you loose a valve lock and it was just that valve? WOULDNT A LOOSE ROCKER MAKE NOISE FROM THE START?
    You would certainly think so. The other thread says installed the rocker arm main pivot, lash was never set right, rocker arm contacted the lock and the valve dropped from there.

    I would imagine there was a lot of noise before the valve dropped in this instance. I don't know how there couldn't be


    1997 Camaro Z28

    Lots of visual horsepower, full bolt-ons, and a little spray....

    Quote Originally Posted by quik95lt1 View Post
    yea so back to the tune..........do what i said before you make yourself a paperweight lol

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by LT1Formula97 View Post
    im still trying to figure this out also.....I have a picture of the timing chain after install. I followed a guide that said dot on cam gear goes at 6'oclock, crank gear goes at 12'oclock and this puts the cam dowel at 3oclock

    http://imgur.com/a/Yrawa
    Might just be the angle, and the crank reluctor in the way, but that doesn't look right to me. With the dots lined up (yours shows cam sprocket at 6), the crank keyway should be at 1:30, while yours looks nearly straight up.

    http://shbox.com/1/keyway2.jpg
    1997 Pontiac Trans Am WS6 clone | Build Thread | - just needs paint!
    2001 Chevy Silverado 2500HD (the DD)

  4. #14
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    I pulled the passenger side head to check to see if theres anything wrong and it looks like one of the pistons was also making contact with the heads. Can anyone tell me why this could be?

    http://imgur.com/a/QeiLD

  5. #15
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    Pull the relucor off and get a shot of the crank and cam gear. If possible, rotate the engine around to the point where the timing dots line up. I've seen stuff similar to this before when a crank snaps after the first rod throw. Engine would still start and run but the crank was busted in 2

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    1985 Monte Carlo SS
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  7. #16
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    whats the easiest way to get the crank hub off with the motor out of the car. Cant figure out how to stop it from spinning to get bolts off

  8. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by LT1Formula97 View Post
    whats the easiest way to get the crank hub off with the motor out of the car. Cant figure out how to stop it from spinning to get bolts off
    That's the cam gear, and just crack em loose, the motor shouldn't spin that easy. Use a puller for crank gear. Or at this point just pull the main caps and see if the crank is broke

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
    2021 Charger Scat 392
    1994 Firebird Formula 381 stroker - Carrying the torch! - 9.90 @ 134.3mph on a 200 shot

    The wrench/driver for LTConvert's 94 Z28- Ellwein 383/LE Trickflows/ D1SC / CPT Ultra Pro Race 4L60E
    10.78 @ 125mph. Shooting for 9.99 for Frank Cahall!

  9. #18
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    Ok so I took the heads to the local machine shop and he said they probably shouldn't be saved, which is not what I wanted to hear. He also says something does not look right since all the valves were making contact with the pistons. So what could have caused this? He says either rockers were way too tight or too much was taken off the heads. So idk what to believe since I was told I installed the rockers way too loose. Either way now im doing research for whats a cost effective motor to drop it

  10. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by LT1Formula97 View Post
    Ok so I took the heads to the local machine shop and he said they probably shouldn't be saved, which is not what I wanted to hear. He also says something does not look right since all the valves were making contact with the pistons. So what could have caused this? He says either rockers were way too tight or too much was taken off the heads. So idk what to believe since I was told I installed the rockers way too loose. Either way now im doing research for whats a cost effective motor to drop it
    If you set the cam vs crank up completely wrong then of course the second you cranked it shit would start contacting piston dude. No way Lloyd took too much off a stock casting for it to hit piston, that was a timing error on your part thru and thru

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
    2021 Charger Scat 392
    1994 Firebird Formula 381 stroker - Carrying the torch! - 9.90 @ 134.3mph on a 200 shot

    The wrench/driver for LTConvert's 94 Z28- Ellwein 383/LE Trickflows/ D1SC / CPT Ultra Pro Race 4L60E
    10.78 @ 125mph. Shooting for 9.99 for Frank Cahall!

  11. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by LT1Formula97 View Post
    Ok so I took the heads to the local machine shop and he said they probably shouldn't be saved, which is not what I wanted to hear. He also says something does not look right since all the valves were making contact with the pistons. So what could have caused this? He says either rockers were way too tight or too much was taken off the heads. So idk what to believe since I was told I installed the rockers way too loose. Either way now im doing research for whats a cost effective motor to drop it
    Did you ever verify that the crank/cam gears were in the correct alignment? How does the bottom end look?

    Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
    Chris
    1985 Monte Carlo SS
    Mods: 9:1 383 LT1, Ported Trick Flow heads, D1SC Procharger, 4L80E, 3.50 9"
    Check out the M122 MCSS build thread here!

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