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Thread: SD idle tuning problems
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12-01-2016, 05:00 PM #1
SD idle tuning problems
I am trying to dial in my start, idle, and cruising tune in SD before tuning it in MAF mode, however, it will not idle at all in SD and wont start unless I have my foot on the throttle. When I get it started I either have to keep feathering the throttle, or if using EEHack, set the Open Loop AFR all the way to about 19-20 with IAC at 160 for it to idle. If the MAF is plugged in, it idles fine. Any suggestions on how to get this dialed in correctly? Fuel injectors have been cleaned/flow tested, new plugs/wires/coil/opti.
1995 TA M6 E85
Power mods: AFR 210 Comp Eliminators, LE LT4 intake, Custom LE cam, 12.5:1 385ci, M29
Suspension: Koni's, 600/175lb Ground Control, 36.5/21mm sway, Fays2 Watts Link, rod-ended everything, C5 brakes, etc.
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12-01-2016, 06:20 PM #2Xtreme Member
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- Shaun
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- 1994 Formula
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Supporting Member2021 Charger Scat 392
1994 Firebird Formula 381 stroker - Carrying the torch! - 9.90 @ 134.3mph on a 200 shot
The wrench/driver for LTConvert's 94 Z28- Ellwein 383/LE Trickflows/ D1SC / CPT Ultra Pro Race 4L60E
10.78 @ 125mph. Shooting for 9.99 for Frank Cahall!
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12-01-2016, 07:01 PM #3
Yes, SD Enabled, MAF SES Code disabled. When I run it like this it doesnt want to idle or it dies if I take the foot off the throttle, but if I re-enable MAF and plug it back in, it idles. So this leads me to believe that one of the VE tables, and/or others must be way off. Just need some help from some tuning gurus!
More car info: Cam is 243/251 110LSA, 63lb Siemens injectors.1995 TA M6 E85
Power mods: AFR 210 Comp Eliminators, LE LT4 intake, Custom LE cam, 12.5:1 385ci, M29
Suspension: Koni's, 600/175lb Ground Control, 36.5/21mm sway, Fays2 Watts Link, rod-ended everything, C5 brakes, etc.
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12-01-2016, 08:55 PM #4Xtreme Member
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- Shaun
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- 1994 Formula
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Supporting Member2021 Charger Scat 392
1994 Firebird Formula 381 stroker - Carrying the torch! - 9.90 @ 134.3mph on a 200 shot
The wrench/driver for LTConvert's 94 Z28- Ellwein 383/LE Trickflows/ D1SC / CPT Ultra Pro Race 4L60E
10.78 @ 125mph. Shooting for 9.99 for Frank Cahall!
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12-01-2016, 09:10 PM #5
No it's not boosted, I've just read to dial in idle and drivability in under SD mode first and with VE Master to get it running best, then to dial in the MAF tables once VE is adjusted.
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12-02-2016, 10:24 AM #6Xtreme Member
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Supporting MemberIf it runs in maf tune it in maf, then ve mode is only power enrichment mode. @MoeHorsePower whats your opinion?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk2021 Charger Scat 392
1994 Firebird Formula 381 stroker - Carrying the torch! - 9.90 @ 134.3mph on a 200 shot
The wrench/driver for LTConvert's 94 Z28- Ellwein 383/LE Trickflows/ D1SC / CPT Ultra Pro Race 4L60E
10.78 @ 125mph. Shooting for 9.99 for Frank Cahall!
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12-05-2016, 06:27 AM #7
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12-05-2016, 07:17 AM #8
Ok then I'll just try to tune it in MAF mode then. The other issue I'm having is surging or "missing" feeling at low throttle/RPM such as cruising. Replaced the entire ignition system (opti/coil/wires) and made no change to the drivability when doing so, so it leads me to believe it is something else possibly in the tune causing the slight surging or missing.
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12-09-2016, 09:39 PM #9
I'm going to check all of the spark plugs again on it, I feel like at this point that it has to be a random miss, not sure if I have a bad plug, wrong gap, heat range, etc.
Would the live cylinder deactivation test in EEHack identify the cylinder, and if so, what should I look for in the test?Last edited by kgkern01; 12-09-2016 at 09:48 PM.
1995 TA M6 E85
Power mods: AFR 210 Comp Eliminators, LE LT4 intake, Custom LE cam, 12.5:1 385ci, M29
Suspension: Koni's, 600/175lb Ground Control, 36.5/21mm sway, Fays2 Watts Link, rod-ended everything, C5 brakes, etc.
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12-12-2016, 04:21 AM #10Lurker
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- Caleb
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- '94 Bright Teal Z28 M6
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- Lafayette IN
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I am having the same problems. ChasIng now for a year. I used the cylinder test to find a bad wire. I found one (#7). It improved my low RPM driving but idle stayed the same. I've seen a couple of screen shots of the cyl balance test others performed. It seems like cyl #1 is always lower than the rest for them. My #1 is always 1 lower than the others with 2-8 having a difference of ~1.5.
Tonight I just changed opti, plugs, wires, and coolant sensor. I spaced and re thermal greased my ICM. Removed EGR. When I test drive tomorrow I will let you know if it fixed the idle.
Mine stumbles more when it gets hot. Sometimes every 1-3 seconds. Starts a little before closed loop temps when cold. Will do it in open loop when starting hot. The whole car shakes slightly. My lights dim slightly. I can see the tach needle dropping ~50RPM.
I am infected with the intake mani leak virus. My results may be dirty :p
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkBright Teal 94 Z28 K&N CAI Speed Engineering LTs Pacesetter ORY Magnaflow Muff
Test my MPG Calculator https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing
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