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Thread: O2 sensor

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by ncinirator View Post
    I took advantage of the black Friday sales. Scored a craftsman impact gun and a bunch of other stuff from 30-50% off!

    Today I'll break off the O2 sensor to get the impact on it and get'er done.


    Sent from my Commodore64, excuse typos & brevity
    Oh man. I wish I had one. I had to try bracing in every way and use a 3 foot breaker to get mine off. Should have ran the car a while first or something.


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  2. #12
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    Man, you guys poopooing the HF stuff need to do your homework. Their earthquake impacts are cheap at around $100 or less and pretty well regarded. Lots of guys using those professionally with great success. I have personally used them when a Snap On MG725 wouldn't do the job. First hand experience. Granted not everything HF sells is worth the money, but the earthquake line of impacts certainly are. The 1/2" one will give any other far more expensive 1/2" unit a run for it's money if not flat out doing better than it. Anyway......

    I may be wrong but that sensor looks welded in. I say that because if it was bolted in all the way, the lower pic shows a gap between the head and the O2 bung in the pipe. That gap shouldn't be present if it was run in all the way and seated. That looks like it's been welded in place. I certainly hope I'm wrong though.
    Quote Originally Posted by Ryan Stout View Post
    I would try to work my neck muscles but I'm not invited to the LS guy parties.

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  4. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fastbird View Post
    I may be wrong but that sensor looks welded in. I say that because if it was bolted in all the way, the lower pic shows a gap between the head and the O2 bung in the pipe. That gap shouldn't be present if it was run in all the way and seated. That looks like it's been welded in place. I certainly hope I'm wrong though.
    With part of the 'crotch buster' removed, I took my craftsman wrench & a hammer to it. 4 good hits and it moved. I had to beat it off part way(no homo... Not that there is anything wrong with that) and then I could turn it the rest of the way.



    Sent from my Commodore64, excuse typos & brevity
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  6. #14
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    Kick ass man! Glad I was wrong on that one.
    Quote Originally Posted by Ryan Stout View Post
    I would try to work my neck muscles but I'm not invited to the LS guy parties.

  7. #15
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    Glad you were able to "beat it off." It did look pretty well sealed on there so I'm surprised.

    Also noted on the HF stuff. I rarely have issues with their stuff anymore, but was always concerned about their impacts. Now I know what to look for if my Kobalt 1/2" air impact ever craps the bed.

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    Pulled the driver side head & cleaned stuff up in prep for the gasket.

    I took a whit wire wheel & die grinder to the block. Must say the HF air grinder did the job well.

    But I noticed that the old gasket seemed to have left an indentation on the block. The FSM says to file down any gouges or searches, not sure if I should try and find this out our not.

    Any one here got any input?


    Sent from my Commodore64, excuse typos & brevity
    'A determined soul will do more with a rusty monkey wrench than a loafer will accomplish with all the tools in a machine shop.'
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  9. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by ncinirator View Post
    Pulled the driver side head & cleaned stuff up in prep for the gasket.

    I took a whit wire wheel & die grinder to the block. Must say the HF air grinder did the job well.

    But I noticed that the old gasket seemed to have left an indentation on the block. The FSM says to file down any gouges or searches, not sure if I should try and find this out our not.

    Any one here got any input?


    Sent from my Commodore64, excuse typos & brevity
    Leave it be, most gaskets you shouldn't have even hit it with a wire wheel because now the ra on the deck surface is more uneven. If you try knocking that down more, you may screw it up and need block decked

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  10. #18
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    Default O2 sensor

    Quote Originally Posted by Tubby Z28 View Post
    you try knocking that down more, you may screw it up and need block decked
    Shist, hope i didn't eff anything up.

    This guy seems to have a better method




    Sent from my Commodore64, excuse typos & brevity
    'A determined soul will do more with a rusty monkey wrench than a loafer will accomplish with all the tools in a machine shop.'
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  11. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by ncinirator View Post
    Shist, hope i didn't eff anything up.

    This guy seems to have a better method




    Sent from my Commodore64, excuse typos & brevity
    Better than what you did, yes, lol. I'm very much a razor blade and brake clean person. Time consuming, but I don't have to worry about the abrasive dust in my bores then

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    10.78 @ 125mph. Shooting for 9.99 for Frank Cahall!

  12. #20
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    I usually just run a fine flat file across the surface after I've got it clean. It's not enough to take off any material unless theres a high spot, in which case it needed knocked down anyway. About the only thing you will be removing off a block deck is any carbon from around the wire ring area and an occasional small ding around the edges if you got a little rough during handling.

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