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10-21-2015, 10:12 PM #21Xtreme Member
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- Mar 2015
- Name
- Dan Dalessandro
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- 1997 Camaro Z28
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- 2,211
Good to hear you potentially solved the cooling issue. I run NGK TR55 and they make a difference in the overall running of my car after my header install.
Doing plugs with stock manifolds? What are you spiderman? Get some headers if your state doesn't test emissions. I have XS-Power headers and spark plugs are stupid easy. New sponsor Huron Speed sells them
14.307@98.21, 2.155 60'
97 Z28, M6 with stuff done to it. SHOOTING FOR 12s IN A BOLT ON LT1 BOYS
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10-22-2015, 02:07 AM #22Lurker
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- Sep 2015
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- Caleb
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- '94 Bright Teal Z28 M6
- Location
- Lafayette IN
- Posts
- 132
What did you gap your ngk plugs to? Yes I caught a lot of hell for having super small wrists in high school, but it does come in handy a lot fixing things!
I was actually going to wait for headers to do the plugs/wires, but the idle issue was bugging me and I figured it wouldn't hurt.
Sent from my iPad using TapatalkBright Teal ’94 Z28 – K&N CAI – Speed Engineering LTs – Pacesetter ORY – Magnaflow Muff
Test my MPG Calculator https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing
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10-22-2015, 02:12 AM #23Xtreme Member
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- Mar 2015
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- Dan Dalessandro
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- 1997 Camaro Z28
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- 2,211
I ran stock gaps on the plugs. I think .50? I forgot now. I also did over the valve cover msd wires. Well worth it in my opinion. I burnt 3 wires routing them stock location with my shorties. Haven't burnt a single one yet. And if I do I have a backup set
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14.307@98.21, 2.155 60'
97 Z28, M6 with stuff done to it. SHOOTING FOR 12s IN A BOLT ON LT1 BOYS
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10-22-2015, 04:44 PM #24Lurker
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- Sep 2015
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- Caleb
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- '94 Bright Teal Z28 M6
- Location
- Lafayette IN
- Posts
- 132
Maintenance on my '94 z28 pic heavy
Thanks for warning me about plug #2! I had to Mygyver this device of extensions and converters to get the right size!
It was easier going back in I had to twist my arm in front of the EGR Pipe and screw it in by hand.
Plug #8 was about as hard as plug #7. I got it underneath. I managed to get all the plugs from underneath. Going to hold off on the wires. The passenger side looks like a bitch.
I've discovered two new problems. The first one is that my transmission mount is shot. That should be a pretty easy fix.
The second I'm not so sure about. I'm getting a VERY strong rotten egg smell in certain situations. It's either my cat or the battery. I found a receipt on the side of the battery and it said it was purchased in 2009
The smell really happens bad when I'm headed down a steep >30 degrees incline. It smells like the car in front of me had Taco Bell meat put in with the gas! Only happens going downhill. I'll change the battery first.
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkBright Teal ’94 Z28 – K&N CAI – Speed Engineering LTs – Pacesetter ORY – Magnaflow Muff
Test my MPG Calculator https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing
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10-22-2015, 05:32 PM #25Xtreme Member
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- Mar 2015
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- Dan Dalessandro
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- 1997 Camaro Z28
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- 2,211
It's a sign you should upgrade to some headers! I can do plugs in 15-20 minutes now. I have an install thread on here I wrote when Huron Speed became a sponsor.
14.307@98.21, 2.155 60'
97 Z28, M6 with stuff done to it. SHOOTING FOR 12s IN A BOLT ON LT1 BOYS
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11-03-2015, 11:01 AM #26Lurker
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- Sep 2015
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- Caleb
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- '94 Bright Teal Z28 M6
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- Lafayette IN
- Posts
- 132
Maintenance on my '94 z28 pic heavy
Thought I would post an update on what I've been doing lately.
I found and got rid of the tick! (Well, the loudest one.) I read about a million threads and convinced myself it was an exhaust leak, even though it sounded very metallic to me. The noise if I listened carefully was like one of those hand clapper things kids play with but very close together.
I tried spraying the manifold bolts for two or three days then tightened the exhaust manifolds as much as a could (1/4turn at most usually). This made no difference. I couldn't find any carbon leaks.
I watched the motor at night and saw the #7 plug boot guard was sparking. I changed the wires on the left side. #7 was a pain. But, like all things camaro once you find the right angle of attack it's all good! This made the car run better, but still the clicking was there.
Finally, I decided to pop the valve cover again. I took an extension and listened to the rocker studs. The very front rocker sounded different than the others. I looked at it and it was showing 3 threads while the others had 5. I was afraid I would mess it up trying to reset the lash so I tightened it to show 5 threads. PROBLEM SOLVED!
My car doesn't sound like a diesel anymore!
Now that that is finished here are the next things I'm going to do.
Change transmission mount.
Do right side plug wires.
I can still hear a small ticking that may be an exhaust leak.
I still think the idle sounds wrong, can't hear it in a video.
I need someone smarter than me to look at this data log and tell me if my left 02 is bad or if my left side is lean/rich for real.
The car had been driven a bit before that photo. This is also the only time in a log I've gotten an injector fault. It lasted 5 seconds. Didn't throw a code.
The left o2 consistently reads with less range than the right. If it was equal to the other side either high or low I would think it was lean or rich, but it's always less on top and bottom of the graph. Hope that makes sense.
If it seems wrong I'll get an o2 sensor. This may be why I've got a funky idle. My BLMs are low at low MAF flow cells (121ish) and high at high flow cells (136ish). But pretty even on both sides. Don't want to have to buy random parts if I can avoid it right now.
Hopefully this helps someone with a ticking motor.
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkLast edited by Mrmaroon; 11-03-2015 at 11:18 AM.
Bright Teal ’94 Z28 – K&N CAI – Speed Engineering LTs – Pacesetter ORY – Magnaflow Muff
Test my MPG Calculator https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing
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11-03-2015, 01:17 PM #27LTx Guru
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- Apr 2013
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- Fred
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- 1994 Formula - SOLD
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- Central NJ
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- 2,279
Can't learn much from a single frame of data - but see below.
It's idling right at the target idle speed. It's in the correct long term fuel correction cell, and the LTFT's are pulling about 5% of the fuel to correct for a mild rich condition. Anything 5% or less is within tolerance, and it's good that both sides are the same. Click on the red "DTC Err" box to see what the trouble codes are. The flag for "injector fault" is set, which should mean that at some point, DTC 18 for a faulty injector circuit set. Also see that the flag for "BLM Enabled" is not set, indicating it's probably not in closed loop. It should be with that CLT temp, both O2 sensors "ready" and more than 206 seconds run time.
Things that look OK:
-MAP and Barometer - What is the elevation above sea level where you are located.... looks like you might be at about 1,000-ft.
-MAF AFGS
-TPS closed voltage
-spark advance
-no knock retard
-system voltage
-IAC counts
Seems to be running a bit on the hot side... 223*F coolant.
Since you have a Datamaster log, do an "export as .csv" and send it to me (and I'm sure others here can look at it). You have to indicate which fields you want to export, and I can give you a list of my preferred items, and the order. You also have to select the first and last frames of the data, so that the system will export the entire data log. When it's available, you can e-mail it to me, or upload it to an FTP site where we can download it.SOLD - GONE TO A (VERY) GOOD HOME ! - 94 Formula A3+1: 381ci forged stroker - Callies Stealth, Oliver 5.85 billet rods, BME nitrous pistons / CNC LT4 heads / CC solid roller / TH400+GearVendors OD / 4.11 Strange 12-bolt / 300-shot N2O / Spohn Suspension / roll bar / MoTeC M48 Pro engine management system /a few other odds 'n ends.
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11-03-2015, 03:19 PM #28Lurker
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- Sep 2015
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- Caleb
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- '94 Bright Teal Z28 M6
- Location
- Lafayette IN
- Posts
- 132
I can do that! If you can PM/post the fields that would be awesome. I'll do a new test run too. Should I drive it aggressively with some WOT? If I remember right the last time I flew the elevation around me is 600-800 feet.
EDIT: I looked over the log again. It looks like it switched the BLM Learn off when the injector fault happened. The injector fault follows the low O2 voltage reading on the graph. Fault goes away once the O2 reading goes back to normal.Last edited by Mrmaroon; 11-03-2015 at 03:40 PM.
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11-03-2015, 03:25 PM #29Lurker
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- Sep 2015
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- Caleb
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- '94 Bright Teal Z28 M6
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- Lafayette IN
- Posts
- 132
I've got a few more questions I can't find the answers too.
Is the wire from the Optispark to the coil supposed to click in twice at the coil side?
Why did I get 10 spark plug wires when I need 9?
Am I supposed to use dielectric grease on the metal clips of the wires? Or just use it around the edge of the boot to seal out water? And do I use it on the optispark side of the boots too?
If I clear the DTC codes does that reset my fuel trims and everything it has learned?
Thanks for all the help so farLast edited by Mrmaroon; 11-03-2015 at 03:38 PM.
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11-03-2015, 03:42 PM #30LTx Guru
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- Apr 2013
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- Fred
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- 1994 Formula - SOLD
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- Central NJ
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- 2,279
I know there's the green "closed loop" at the top, but BLM is not enabled, which would explain why both short terms are at 128. But again, the complete log would tell more. I looked at the graph to attempt to evaluate your indication that the range of the left O2 sensor is narrower than the right. The graph does show s narrower range at many locations, but at others, the red seems to overlay the blue pretty well. Again, with a .csv file, entered into Excel, it's possible to actually quantify the numbers, evaluate ranges, calculate averages, etc.
Not sure what happened in the center of the graph where you have the cursor... the left O2 appears to have flatlined at 36mV.
My choice for items and sequence (hope this shows up... most "copy & paste" seems to end up as black print in black background = impossible to read) would be:
Record# (inserted automatically)
TimeStamp (inserted automatically)
1 – Runtime
2 – RPM
3 – Speed
4 – TPS Volts
5 – TPS %
6 – MAP
7 – Cool Temp
8 – IA Temp
9 – Ign Volts
10 – IAC Pos
11 – AFGS (MAF cars only)
12 – Spark Advance
13 – Spark Retard
14 – Knock Count
15 – Inj BPW Left
16 – Inj BPW Right
17 – Fuel Trim Cell
18 – Left O2 mV
19 – Right O2 mV
20 – LTerm-LC
21 – LTerm-RC
22 – STerm-LC
23 – STerm-RC
24 – CCP DC
25 – EGR DC
26 – Baro
27 – IAC Pos
28 – Idle RPM
29 – Inj DC Left
30 – Inj DC Right
31 – RPM-16
32 – <OFF>
That’s about the most useful set of data. You enter those in the positions 1 – 32 that you get on the Export Engine Data setup screen.
And don’t forget to enter the last record number of the file in the “Count” field.
If you have issues with the .csv export, send me the DataMaster .uni format file. I have DataMaster on my home PC.... they won't let us put personal stuff on the PC's here at work.
Log it from a cold start. Let it warm up, and enter closed loop... should take about 3-1/2 minutes. Then drive it under a wide variety of conditions. A bit of cruising, and at least one full throttle pull in a lower gear (1st of 2nd). At the end of the log, let it idle for about 30 seconds.
All things considered, I think Scan9495 does a much better job than DataMaster, and it's free, with no limitation on number uses.Last edited by Injuneer; 11-03-2015 at 03:47 PM.
SOLD - GONE TO A (VERY) GOOD HOME ! - 94 Formula A3+1: 381ci forged stroker - Callies Stealth, Oliver 5.85 billet rods, BME nitrous pistons / CNC LT4 heads / CC solid roller / TH400+GearVendors OD / 4.11 Strange 12-bolt / 300-shot N2O / Spohn Suspension / roll bar / MoTeC M48 Pro engine management system /a few other odds 'n ends.
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