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  1. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by SSlowBoat View Post
    Lock the timing retard to max of 3 degrees. It should be locked lower for performance anyway. If Solomon still has it at 10 degrees (which is factory) I would find a new tuner. What is it at max, as in in ur logs what's your max spark retard?
    Max is 5,
    When I accelerate, even slightly in closed loop, it goes right to 5, and then eventually drops off, even with the 102 octane.
    1994 Trans Am GT, stock 28k mi bottom end LE2 H/C/I , 1.6rr, LT4 KM, moroso cai, jet hot lts, hooker y-pipe, slp powerflo, 37# inj, 255 pump, built 4l60e, 2800 stall, spohn/hotchkis/qa1 suspension etc etc.

  2. #12
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    john
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by SSlowBoat View Post
    Lock the timing retard to max of 3 degrees. It should be locked lower for performance anyway. If Solomon still has it at 10 degrees (which is factory) I would find a new tuner. What is it at max, as in in ur logs what's your max spark retard?
    F the knock sensors and ringlands right?

    I would continue the quest to find if its false knock, TQ specs on factory knock sensors can effect them, as well as a broken wire changing resistance.
    My collectors would leak and set off the KR sensor all the time. One trick to try is to put tape over the LT4 module ear holes on the PCM if that reduces KR you know its not the block sensor.
    Misfires can cause KR, a bad wire,bad injector ect. Broken flywheel/flex plates TQ converters can cause it. A bad Opti can cause audible knock at idle, ect ect.
    The Point is get the car running tip top before tuning it. Dont say eff the knock sensors until you KNOW its false knock.

  3. #13

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    I will do a once over again, and will try the KM trick, I didn't know it audibly read it from there. Opti is brand new delco, injectors are brand new too. Thanks for the help, guys.

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by 94ndta View Post
    Max is 5,
    When I accelerate, even slightly in closed loop, it goes right to 5, and then eventually drops off, even with the 102 octane.
    Then it's probably false, but I don't know what I'm talking about. If it's already locked you could have a flat out tap that's freaking the sensor out.
    2021 Charger Scat 392
    1994 Firebird Formula 381 stroker - Carrying the torch! - 9.90 @ 134.3mph on a 200 shot

    The wrench/driver for LTConvert's 94 Z28- Ellwein 383/LE Trickflows/ D1SC / CPT Ultra Pro Race 4L60E
    10.78 @ 125mph. Shooting for 9.99 for Frank Cahall!

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by gmpowered View Post
    F the knock sensors and ringlands right?

    I would continue the quest to find if its false knock, TQ specs on factory knock sensors can effect them, as well as a broken wire changing resistance.
    My collectors would leak and set off the KR sensor all the time. One trick to try is to put tape over the LT4 module ear holes on the PCM if that reduces KR you know its not the block sensor.
    Misfires can cause KR, a bad wire,bad injector ect. Broken flywheel/flex plates TQ converters can cause it. A bad Opti can cause audible knock at idle, ect ect.
    The Point is get the car running tip top before tuning it. Dont say eff the knock sensors until you KNOW its false knock.
    Guess guys that have no knock sensors all have bad ring lands then right?
    2021 Charger Scat 392
    1994 Firebird Formula 381 stroker - Carrying the torch! - 9.90 @ 134.3mph on a 200 shot

    The wrench/driver for LTConvert's 94 Z28- Ellwein 383/LE Trickflows/ D1SC / CPT Ultra Pro Race 4L60E
    10.78 @ 125mph. Shooting for 9.99 for Frank Cahall!

  6. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by SSlowBoat View Post
    Then it's probably false, but I don't know what I'm talking about. If it's already locked you could have a flat out tap that's freaking the sensor out.
    A tap like from the rockers/exhaust/etc? Maybe, but I can't really hear anything. I checked my entire exhaust yesterday. The only thing I haven't done is my rockers again.

    Why wouldn't pick it up in open loop? Are only certain sensors reading in open/closed loop?

  7. #17
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    Brian DeLuca
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    Just another suggestion but are you sure your exhaust isn't banging on anything? Had that issue a long long time ago in my heads/cam days. Engine would torque and exhaust would hit causing a false knock.

    97 T/A Ram Air Convt - 10.2@140 / 777rwhp - Forever Dyno Queen
    17 Corvette Z06 - 11.05 @ 125
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  8. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by blackbirdws6 View Post
    Just another suggestion but are you sure your exhaust isn't banging on anything? Had that issue a long long time ago in my heads/cam days. Engine would torque and exhaust would hit causing a false knock.
    Positive. The exhaust brace in the center was hitting, but I fixed that, tightened the header bolts, an followed them to the y-pipe, the aluminum pipe for the a/c was close, but I moved it. Each header is about 1/4" or more from the k member and about a half an inch from the floor board. Also about 1/4" from the tranny brace. It's got to be something else that I can't hear while I'm in the car.
    Last edited by 94ndta; 07-19-2015 at 04:09 PM.

  9. #19

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    Uhh...maybe this has something to do with it. Is this the right O2 wire or knock sensor wire? I actually pulled back the heat wrap and found it. It's late, I didn't have time to tinker any more. Burnt wires are never a good thing, I do know that.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by 94ndta; 07-19-2015 at 09:42 PM.
    1994 Trans Am GT, stock 28k mi bottom end LE2 H/C/I , 1.6rr, LT4 KM, moroso cai, jet hot lts, hooker y-pipe, slp powerflo, 37# inj, 255 pump, built 4l60e, 2800 stall, spohn/hotchkis/qa1 suspension etc etc.

  10. #20
    The FABRICATOR!


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    That's the abs wire. Knock sensor is one wire but it's definitely worth looking over.
    Chris
    1985 Monte Carlo SS
    Mods: 9:1 383 LT1, Ported Trick Flow heads, D1SC Procharger, 4L80E, 3.50 9"
    Check out the M122 MCSS build thread here!

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