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  1. #1
    InActive Member


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    Nov 2011
    Name
    Josh
    Vehicle
    1991 S-15 Jimmy SLE
    Location
    Decatur, Indiana
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    459

    Default Wireless Paddle Shifter How-To

    Items needed
    Forced four shift box
    http://forcedfour.com/shiftboxbasic.htm


    Paddle shifters- adjustable preferred
    http://granturgismo.com/buy.html


    Buttons
    http://m.ebay.com/itm/310812573982?t...021&action=BIN


    Winch remote/ receiver
    http://m.ebay.com/itm/111246532747?txnId=1152119130001


    Relays
    http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a...E-RELAY/1.html


    Basic box - 110
    Paddles - 34
    Buttons - 5
    Winch remote - 14
    Relays - 6
    Total : $169


    This install should be done on an aftermarket steering wheel to keep things simple. It could be used on a factory wheel but I can't guarantee the best fitment lol.


    1. Remove the rubber bumper from the paddles. Afterwards find a drill bit the same size as the outside of the button. I chose the hole in the middle of the paddle and drilled about halfway down so the button would push through the other side and I could tighten the nut down.




    1a. If using the double stick tape to install the paddles are now ready
    1b. If using bolts to hold the paddles on simply lay the paddles on the back of the wheel, mark the bolt holes in the mounts to the wheel, drill and bolt together. The paddles are now ready.
    i recommended the adjustable paddles because you can choose how far away from the wheel you want them. This is nice for if you mount the buttons too close or if the wheel gets thicker towards the button area than it is at the mount. Just a heads up.




    2 remove the cover from the remote to access the bare circuit board. Solder a wire to each terminal of the paddle buttons. Choose which button will control each paddle and solder one wire from each paddle to the outside terminal on the buttons. The two remaining wires can be soldered together and soldered to the terminal on the board between the buttons directly below the led light. DO NOT solder to the terminal under the buttons but above the battery plate. If soldered to this terminal it will not burn up but will cause the loss of one buttons function. Once soldered the wireless steering unit is now finished. Tuck it all into the steering hub, tape it under the hub, however you prefer but as long as it rotates with the wheel your golden.
    Picture isn't the exact board but same design overall:
    image.jpg





    3. Wire the shift box based on the instructions. No changes are needed to its wiring except for the external controller wires. It's your call if you want it as a standalone controller or just an option on top of the factory pcm controls.


    4. From the winch receiver there will be two wires IN and OUT. Depending on which button was wired to which will determine which one is used for upshift/downshift. The wires will be connected to a relay as the trigger. The wire to the shift box will be the negative output, and the remaining two terminals will be grounded. I had the soldering gun out so I soldered a wire between the two and just ran a ground from the one terminal to make the install a bit cleaner.
    image.jpg

    image.jpg


    5. Once this is done wire the + and - for the box and receiver.




    Options:


    1. On my paddles I felt they needed more resistance. I went to Wal mart and bough 2 staple pullers ($.97 each). I cut the rivet and pulled them apart, took the spring out and installed it on the rod that holds the paddle to the mount. This gave the paddle a bit more resistance when pushing it down making it less likely to accidentally bump it.



    2. Forced four sells an external display for the gear. I'm planning to buy one and install it on the column so I can keep track of what gear I'm in a bit easier.




    Roadsurge users: the assembly should be the same as the forced four box aside from the removable wiring for the external controls.

    Why have relays?: the winch remote/receiver puts out a + signal and the external outputs on the shift box need a - signal so the relay is wired to change the signal around.


    Wiring:
    Right paddle = upshift
    Left paddle = downshift
    OUT = upshift
    IN = downshift


    Right paddle wires wired to OUT button, left paddle wires to IN button
    White wire from receiver goes to trigger on relay #1 (terminal 86)
    Yellow wire from receiver goes to trigger on relay #2 (also terminal 86)
    Purple wire from shift box goes to negative output from relay #1 (87)
    Purple/white from shift box goes to negative output from relay #2 (87)
    Other two relay terminals
    White black from box wired to ground, I wired it in with the receiver/ shift box ground
    I also connected the power from the receiver and shift box together and ran them through an inline fuse to be safe.
    Green wire is antenna so just mount this anywhere away from the receiver. I wrapped mine around the relay and it wouldn't receive signal so I just stretched it out.
    Only wires that should be routed from the setup to the vehicle are power, ground, solenoid A, solenoid B, and the tach input. Everything else is contained into the setup.
    That's about all there is to it. A nice simple design with a lot of options and should hold up fairly well.


    Finishing note: just like to say thanks to EagleTalonTim for the Roadsurge box, Forced Four for the Shift Box Basic, Granturgismo.com for the paddles, Lamboclone.com for the wireless idea, and a big thanks to everyone who supported this idea. I won't take credit for anything but the completed system because I borrowed all the parts from everyone above to build it lol.







    Anyone with questions feel free to PM me or check the other thread for info. Have fun and be safe!
    Attached Images Attached Images

    1991 GMC S15 Jimmy
    - 1995 355 LTX- A4, almost AWD
    1997 GMC Jimmy- 4.3 V6 - syty turbo setup
    2012 Kia Rio5- wife's DD
    1990 Acura Integra LS - DD

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  3. #2
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