Catmaigne's "LolT1" Budget Boost Buildup

[Catmaigne]

Shortblock build page http://www.ellweinengines.com/ERE60/ERE60.htm

Let me start out by saying that I've considered swapping to LS countless times and I've had it. There's so much character with these cars and a turbo 5.3 swap seems like a total cop out. Having said that, I set out to boost the ole LT1 and not totally break the bank. Hell, it might even win a race or two.

This car is going to be one giant compromise... a jack of all trades but master of none. It's just the way it has to be. I can't afford a fun car for the street, one for serious drag, and another for the road course. The ultimate goal is something that can make good power, fly down the 1/4, and run a decent lap time, all while being liveable enough to drive to the occasional car meet or roadtrip on the highway. 600rwhp should be attainable, I should be able to take a corner with some good tires, and < 9.99 ET will take effort but isn't entirely impossible.

This build isn't going to happen overnight so I figured I'd make a thread to chronicle my progress. There is a lot that needs to get done so this project is going to be built over the course of the next couple years. Boosting it will be one of the very last stages. Also, when I say "budget" don't assume that I'm going to be skimping on vital parts, think of it more as me being a very good deal finder. Some parts will be purchased new and others that are less vital (or extremely expensive) will be acquired through classifieds. Let it be known that prefer quality used items over cheap parts that are prone to breaking.

Here's the gist of it:

ENGINE
4-bolt splayed conversion utilizing Howard's 10* billet main caps and ARP hardware, clearanced for stroker
- Scat 4340 crank
- Eagle 5.7" 4340 H-beam rods w/ARP 2000 bolts
- Mahle SBC425030I16 piston kit (4032 forged, -16cc dish, 1.425" CH)
AFR 210 Eliminators
LE billet cam (226/239 .565/.587 114)
- Single plane conversion w/World Motown EFI (heads drilled/tapped on inner 4, rest done with angle washers)
Cheapo FMIC
Used D1SC or T-trim @ 10ish psi without meth, more with injection-- may have to settle for S/Si-Trim or P1SC due to price
9.4:1 CR on 93 pump gas
24x swap for more tuning capability

TRANS
SFI bellhousing
DIY T56 Viper mainshaft conversion courtesy of a thread on LS1tech
Might be unnecessary but I think it's good assurance.

REAR
- Moser 9" with 35 spline axles and tapered axle bearing ends
- Yukon aluminum 9" thru-bolt center with 3.25" bearings
- Wavetrac
- 3.89 gears
I have the housing and axles already and you're probably wondering why I went with gigantic 35 spline axles. Truthfully speaking, this rear was a big compromise. I've read about people twisting 31 spline axles with the M6 and slicks so I wanted to upgrade to 33 spline. The issue is that there are no LSD carriers for 33 spline 9" rears other than the Eaton Truecrap so my only option was to upgrade to 35 and a Wavetrac. I don't want to run a spool, I like fast corners too.

OTHER
- PST driveshaft (chromoly or aluminum)
- Used UMI adjustable TA (chromoly)
- Used UMI adjustable panhard (chromoly)
Dual 255s
80# injectors
- Spec Stage 3+ disc
NHRA requirements (cage, SFI stuff)
Dyno tune
Other odds and ends (plugs, wires, pullies, etc.)

And there ya have it. A [somewhat] budget minded LT1 that can be safely boosted and driven on the street.

Edit 1/24/14: Changed the gear ratio. I've decided on running a M&H 27x9 drag slick and the 3.89 gear will put me where I need to be in the 1/4.
The single plane is probably out of the question. I'll only give it a shot if I have distribution problems.
Clutch was probably too extreme so I'm gonna dial back.

Edit 4/15/14: Rear is almost in. I picked up a set of C5 DD wheels and am using the Toyo Proxes TQ radial for the street. It's 315/35r18.

Edit 11/8/14: Forged GM 350 crank ditched for a used 4340 Lunati 383 crank. 24x swap also in progress. Single plane tacked back on due to saving money on the 24x setup (vortec dizzy instead of EFI cmp). Single plane will be a tweaked Motown EFI with custom rails.

Edit 12/4/14: Switching rod length from 5.85 to 5.7 so I can use the Mahle's with 383 crank. TFS heads ditched for AFR 210s.

Progress so far:
-Rear is in
-Clutch, bellhousing, driveshaft
-Panhard, TA installed
-Engine with Karl Ellwein

Edit 6/16/15: Picking ERE #60 from Karl

[dawdaw]

post some pics up of the car!!!

[musict]

With the HP your going to make, that stage 4 clutch is WAY overkill and you will not be happy with it on the street.... Ask me how I know :-)..... A Spec 3 or 3+ would be more than adequate for your build. The stage 4 is like a light switch and is very aggressive (grabby)

Good list of parts for your build, good luck!!

[Ugod02010]

Hopefully when I start building te new lt1 I'm picking up I can find parts on te cheap like that! Waiting for some pics man.

[Catmaigne]

Here's my bargain basement forged rotating assembly. I bought these parts early on because I came across some really good deals, but realistically the engine will be the last thing to get built. Right now I'm working on the 9", then my spare T56 will get torn down, and then the motor will be pieced together eventually.

3551_zpsce109986.jpg

3552_zpsd409ade4.jpg

The crank is a little dusty. I stood the crank up because I remember hearing about cranks flexing from being stored on their side.

3553_zps02281d86.jpg

5.850" with the ARP 2000 bolts. Thanks china!

3554_zpsa3e1d64a.jpg

The Mahle has a .326" top land and a .197" crown under the dish with 4032 alloy. It was between this piston and a similarly priced Wiseco that I assumed was 2618 because it was "nitrous ready." I emailed Wiseco's tech looking for specs thinking that it was 2618 and would have a thicker crown than the Mahle, but I was wrong. It was 4032 and thin, really bad for a nitrous piston. The Mahles came with decent rings and I'm glad I went with them in the end. A builder on LS1tech is using the same style Mahle Power Pak with the same crown thickness and pushed his LQ motor up to 17-18psi on meth. His name is 427 if you want to look it up. That motor lasted him over 100k before an LS7 lifter broke apart.

[Catmaigne]

My 10 bolt has had it from the beating it endured on STREET TIRES.

Right now top priority is to get the 9" in the car for OCMD 2014 along with some QTPs. The Yukon center, pinion support, and bearing kit are all on their way and should be here in the coming week. Then all I need is the Wavetrac, gears, and rear disc brakes from a V6 98-02 car (which happen to be idential to "LS1" rears) from my local yard. I'm about to pick up a used PST driveshaft as well because I know the 1LE that's in there now is gonna twist easily.

Here's just the housing and axles when they showed up. I'll put up more detailed pics when the other goodies get here.



Whole car is getting built back to front, I'm done breaking shit.

[Catmaigne]

@musict Good point about the clutch, 3+ it is.

Quick question, do you have any pictures of the pressure plate that came with the Spec kit? I'm wondering if it's the "C70043" china part or a real Valeo. I found this pic on LS1tech of a 3+ and now I'm confused. It has the same casting # from the eBay clutch kit I put in my car a few years ago. I guess I could reuse it with a new disc if it's straight.

350673d1335115885-new-direction-my-procharged-lt1-383-560729_286265948121525_100002143654359_638.jpg

My friend's 95Z has a Spec stage 1 but I don't think it had my cheapo casting # in it. I probably would have remembered that.

I remember reading that the china PP has a higher clamping force than the Valeo but you know how everyone gets when comparing OEM to china parts... But if it works, it works.

EDIT: I was mistaken, his stage 1 has it too! C70043

[Catmaigne]

The GOODS have arrived.

yukon.jpg

Yukon aluminum through bolt case, 3.25" bearing
Yukon Daytona pinion support, billet aluminum
Billet steel yoke
Timken rebuild kit

Now all I need is the Wavetrac, ring and pinion (probably Motive or Yukon), a coat of paint, and "LS1" brakes from the local u-pull-it.

[Catmaigne]

I found out from SPEC that OEM, stages 1, 2, and 4 are all the same thickness but the stage 3 and 3+ are thicker. I would need to have .040 milled off of my pressure plate to use the 3+.

[Ugod02010]

That rear looks beast! Shouldn't have any more 10bolt problems with that!