What will it make ? 355 h/c

**Swiggart** · 09-11-2013, 10:26 AM

I am building a 355 lt1. It has 28lb injectors, hand ported heads with a 3-angle valve job and good valve springs. Gasket matched intake, 11.2:1 compression, 280 xe cam ( 230/236 and 544/554 @/060 110 or 112 lsa), 1.6 rr, good i beam rods, strong steel crank, silvo-lite cast flat top pistons and about every bolt on there is. It is through a 4l60e with shift kit and 2800 stall. What should i expect hp wise? Does anyone have a bin they could send me to get me on the right track for a tune? Should i go with 110 or 112 lsa? What times should i expect with 4.10 gears in a 2600lb car? Any other input or advice is appreciated.

**ZOHAN** · 09-11-2013, 11:10 AM

Going to end up using the block you pulled out? Does it need to be bored .030? You'll prob only gain like 5hp from it, so not exactly worth it for machining cost. I know someone that can tune it locally, I'd have to confirm price. Maybe pull around 350-375whp? Maybe others will disagree, I'm guessing going off cam size. Should def move only weighing 2600lbs though. If the rear will hold up to a launch with traction is what I'd be considered about.

Making you silky smooth...

**Swiggart** · 09-11-2013, 12:10 PM

Cant salvage the block so getting a .030 one this weekend and then going to town spending money. Lol, how much to tune ? I dont need it spot on just the obvious stuff so I can fine tune it with tunerpro rt.

**Swiggart** · 09-11-2013, 12:11 PM

I am just curious what others think I could pull off for an et, I am unsure about the rear end holding but if it doesnt then its time to fab up something better!

**JCzNova** · 09-11-2013, 01:04 PM

I will go with a 11.9-12.20 in a decent DA, depending on traction, tune and driver mod.

**Swiggart** · 09-11-2013, 02:04 PM

Jcznova, what cam lsa should I get ? I cant figure out the real dofference other than sound and about a 150 rpm shift difference. Is that it?

**95grnformula** · 09-11-2013, 04:07 PM

had almost the same build except for the cam mine was a .230/.236 on a 110 but never made it to the dyno pulled hard. my advice to you dont use the silvolite pistons. mine made it about 1500 miles before one of them gave out on a hard launch shot the rod out the pan

. from the fragments i pulled out looks like the piston came appart at the wrist pin. when it went i had two explosions first my guess was the piston breaking hears rod knocking against block but was turning around 6k when it went then i heard it take out the rod and lots of smoke out the back. I installed everything to silvolite specs tripple checked everything because of all the bad reviews about blowing the tops off it the rings were too tight and still broke it. oh well i guess i have no choice than to build the forged 383 stroker i wanted to originally build

"honey hand me the credit card"

**JCzNova** · 09-11-2013, 04:21 PM

Originally Posted by Swiggart

Jcznova, what cam lsa should I get ? I cant figure out the real dofference other than sound and about a 150 rpm shift difference. Is that it?

With a mild build I don't see you being able to notice much of a difference, other than sound like you said, and MAYBE minor streetability loping around town.

Seems like the majority of builds I have seen have gone with the 110.

**JCzNova** · 09-11-2013, 04:25 PM

If you still have the factory crank, it is forged and I would run that. Then if you think about a little spray down the road you're already set.

Maybe someone with a similar build could tell you what the duty cycle would be on those 28lb'ers too.

**Swiggart** · 09-11-2013, 04:50 PM

The crank is forged, I dont have much of a choice. What would be a better piston for cheap? I already had the silvo lites so I figured id put them to use.