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  1. #1
    Overworked/Underpaid


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    Peter Alpiger
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    Default Road race coming up

    So on March 2nd, there's an open invitation to a lead-follow road race event at Eagles Canyon Raceway. They have a nice open 2.5 mile road course and since it'll be free to join in the fun, I'm really wanting to go. As it sits, my car is still stock everything though - no upgrade parts at all yet. I know I'm at least going to need a set of high friction race pads or I'll run out of brakes when I least expect it.

    My questions are what are some good pads that are a decent price point that will hold up to about 4 laps around the track for a day? And should I look into getting new rotors as well? I'm not sure if my stock solid rotors will hold up, I'll let you guys with more experience call that one. Should I also replace the brake fluid with some Super Blue Racing fluid before heading out there? I've been looking at stranoparts.com which seems to have some pretty good prices:

    http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...ID=7&ModelID=4
    http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...ID=7&ModelID=4
    http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...ID=7&ModelID=4

    Still not sure what pads I should be shooting for though and that's obviously going to be the most critical component.

    Also, please be honest and let me know if I am over-thinking this for a first-time-out lead-follow event where they probably aren't going to let me do anything too retarded anyway.
    96 Trans Am WS6 LT1 M6: 10/7/11 - current: 245.7 RWHP / 266.2 RWTQ - 14.462s @ 98.28 MPH
    94 Corvette LT1 A4: 4/12/13 - current: No dyno #s yet - 9.547s @ 75.11 MPH (1/8 mile)
    92 Lumina Euro 3.4L LQ1 A4: 1/15/06 - current: The beater car that refuses to die...

  2. #2
    "The Rock"


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    Default

    I like the EBCs....

    But recently ive been using monoe or benddix cause they are free replacement.

    Think about sticky tires...


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    1996 Camaro Z28: RIP 09/25/2016

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  3. #3
    Overworked/Underpaid


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    Default

    Free replacement you say? What are their terms and conditions on that? I like the sound of buy once, replace for free
    96 Trans Am WS6 LT1 M6: 10/7/11 - current: 245.7 RWHP / 266.2 RWTQ - 14.462s @ 98.28 MPH
    94 Corvette LT1 A4: 4/12/13 - current: No dyno #s yet - 9.547s @ 75.11 MPH (1/8 mile)
    92 Lumina Euro 3.4L LQ1 A4: 1/15/06 - current: The beater car that refuses to die...

  4. #4
    "The Hammer"


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    Default

    Do NOT cheap out on your brake pads man. One of the cars that my school supports is a showroom stock civic, and that thing eats brake pads, even with the top of the line ones they are allowed to run. And by eats I mean the guy bends the backing plates of the pads. Brand new pads that are made useless after one run. Trust me on this one, get good EBC or equivalent pads. In a car as heavy as ours, the one thing you want working right is the brakes.
    "Only in the Corps can you put three guys in a room with an anvil and a rubber mallet, come back 15 min later, and the anvil is broken, the rubber mallet is missing, and nobody saw a damned thing!"

  5. #5
    LTX AUTOX GURU!


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    Default

    good pad like ebc or hawk. Solid rotors will be your best bet. mabe spring for some better lines.

    Good tires! last thing you want is wrong set of tires. and go sliding off track. or having wheels lock up to easy.
    94 Trans am. Built 383/T56(437/409) Wilwoods, tubular suspension, QA1/BMR, Watts Link. Stripped down and set to kill!

    Twin Tubo build underway. !GOING AFTER LTX STANDING MILE RECORD!

  6. #6
    "The Hammer"


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    Quote Originally Posted by MeanTA View Post
    good pad like ebc or hawk. Solid rotors will be your best bet. mabe spring for some better lines.

    Good tires! last thing you want is wrong set of tires. and go sliding off track. or having wheels lock up to easy.
    This as well, a decent set of tires will be a big plus.
    "Only in the Corps can you put three guys in a room with an anvil and a rubber mallet, come back 15 min later, and the anvil is broken, the rubber mallet is missing, and nobody saw a damned thing!"

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by 94Blackbird View Post
    Do NOT cheap out on your brake pads man. One of the cars that my school supports is a showroom stock civic, and that thing eats brake pads, even with the top of the line ones they are allowed to run. And by eats I mean the guy bends the backing plates of the pads. Brand new pads that are made useless after one run. Trust me on this one, get good EBC or equivalent pads. In a car as heavy as ours, the one thing you want working right is the brakes.
    So I shouldn't look into slotted rotors at all for road racing applications? I know cross-drilled are a bad idea due to proneness to cracking.

    Quote Originally Posted by MeanTA View Post
    good pad like ebc or hawk. Solid rotors will be your best bet. mabe spring for some better lines.

    Good tires! last thing you want is wrong set of tires. and go sliding off track. or having wheels lock up to easy.
    I currently have a set of 275/40-17 Kumho Ecsta 4X on with about 4,050 miles on them, just rotated today (I know I waited a bit long to rotate them, my bad).
    96 Trans Am WS6 LT1 M6: 10/7/11 - current: 245.7 RWHP / 266.2 RWTQ - 14.462s @ 98.28 MPH
    94 Corvette LT1 A4: 4/12/13 - current: No dyno #s yet - 9.547s @ 75.11 MPH (1/8 mile)
    92 Lumina Euro 3.4L LQ1 A4: 1/15/06 - current: The beater car that refuses to die...

  8. #8
    "The Hammer"


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    Quote Originally Posted by Blackbird96WS6 View Post
    So I shouldn't look into slotted rotors at all for road racing applications? I know cross-drilled are a bad idea due to proneness to cracking.
    The slotted rotors couldn't hurt, but the majority of performance pads now a days have provisions to prevent the build up of gas between the rotor and the pad. About the only advantage you would gain from going to a slotted rotor is it would act like a cheese grater on your pads and keep the pad material adjacent to rotor fresh, at the cost of going through pads a lot quicker and an increased amount of brake dust.

    You can do slotted rotors if you want to, but in all reality they probably aren't necessary.


    Quote Originally Posted by Blackbird96WS6 View Post
    I currently have a set of 275/40-17 Kumho Ecsta 4X on with about 4,050 miles on them, just rotated today (I know I waited a bit long to rotate them, my bad).
    I usually rotate about every 5k on my truck and the wife's car. I run wider tires in the rear on the bird so rotating is a bit out of the question there.
    "Only in the Corps can you put three guys in a room with an anvil and a rubber mallet, come back 15 min later, and the anvil is broken, the rubber mallet is missing, and nobody saw a damned thing!"

  9. #9
    Overworked/Underpaid


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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 94Blackbird View Post
    The slotted rotors couldn't hurt, but the majority of performance pads now a days have provisions to prevent the build up of gas between the rotor and the pad. About the only advantage you would gain from going to a slotted rotor is it would act like a cheese grater on your pads and keep the pad material adjacent to rotor fresh, at the cost of going through pads a lot quicker and an increased amount of brake dust.

    You can do slotted rotors if you want to, but in all reality they probably aren't necessary.




    I usually rotate about every 5k on my truck and the wife's car. I run wider tires in the rear on the bird so rotating is a bit out of the question there.
    Plus slotted rotors just look so nice but I guess function over beauty is more important right now lol. So pads for sure, the stock solid rotors on it right now should be fine, and any thoughts on the brake fluid? Necessary or not?

    Edit: Also, between EBC and Hawk pads, which would be the better option? I only see like a $16 difference in price on the two.
    96 Trans Am WS6 LT1 M6: 10/7/11 - current: 245.7 RWHP / 266.2 RWTQ - 14.462s @ 98.28 MPH
    94 Corvette LT1 A4: 4/12/13 - current: No dyno #s yet - 9.547s @ 75.11 MPH (1/8 mile)
    92 Lumina Euro 3.4L LQ1 A4: 1/15/06 - current: The beater car that refuses to die...

  10. #10
    LTX AUTOX GURU!


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    Default

    I run Wilwood fluid in my car.

    I have drilled/spotted rotors. But i am also running Wilwood brake kits. with aggressive pads(dust is horrible) and the rotors are hefty pieces and are cyro treated.
    Last edited by MeanTA; 02-19-2013 at 01:09 AM.
    94 Trans am. Built 383/T56(437/409) Wilwoods, tubular suspension, QA1/BMR, Watts Link. Stripped down and set to kill!

    Twin Tubo build underway. !GOING AFTER LTX STANDING MILE RECORD!

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