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Thread: Supercharging a stock LT1 Camaro
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12-17-2008, 06:32 PM #11
without a doubt the one we did was an extreme case main caps should have been splayed but the rings are usually what goes on a stock boosted car also i gotta say when i blew the rings on my talon not every vacuum line just the pcv valve or the oil dipstick would clear the tube but the vacum line thing has to suck
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01-15-2009, 03:00 PM #12
I myself ran 15psi on a stock bottom end..... ONE time.
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01-17-2009, 08:52 PM #13
BOOST IS ADDICTIVE!!!!!!
I can't give you advice on the LT1 other than keep it low if it is stock. I will build a 383 one day and run some form of boost.
My truck is a good example, stock it was 17psi from the factory. 25 with a mild chip, 30 with a hot chip. 66mm turbo 35 psi. Bigger injectors 40 psi. 70mm turbo 48psi. 72mm turbo, huge ass injectors and dyno tuned, 58psi on the stock bottom end. Now my injectors are too big and I am stepping up to a compound setup. 92mm over a 66mm charger, should break the 750 RWHP buy the end of this year. Then I will have to build a new motor for it.93 LT1 M6, LE, 223/230 .565/.565 112, Stg2 heads, Ported intake, 32lb injectors. Pacesetter mids. 1.6RR Tunned by Chuck Summer's. 382/351
2000 F350 7.3 diesel, BTS auto CC Dually 4X4. Way to many parts. 689rwhp/1450ftlb's
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01-27-2009, 05:17 PM #14
Hey just thought i'd let you know I have a Vortech V1 for sale in the sales section for 2000. It has around 2,000 miles on it. It would work great on your stock engine.
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03-22-2009, 12:39 PM #15
This question has been brought up numerous times before by others wanting to boost their stock bottom ended LT1 (or LS1 for that matter). Here's the skinny;
Your stock bottom end LT1 is a non-forged internal, high CR car (not meant to handle boost). True, you can put boost on it, even if you stay with the just 5-7#'s of boost you wanted, that still is going to put heavy wear on a motor that it was not designed to handle. Eventually it will go boom on you, and you will be looking at a costly rebuild. It might make it 25,000 miles, or it might not make it 2500 miles, but every time put the hammer down you will be rolling the dice on if this will be the time it goes on me. You can help your odds by doing meth injection, intercooling it, adding the appropriate fuel, ignition and tuning that FI requires, but even then you still are rolling the dice, and when it comes down to it for what? 5-7 lbs of boost is not really going to net you that much extra power. Even if you do it as safe as you can by doing all the supportive mods, you still will be out thousands by buying the fuel upgrades, tune, ignition, meth injection, intercooling, this is to say nothing of the thousands that the head unit will cost you either.
Just my opinion, but you would be much better off just doing a killer heads, cam, and intake combo. It would gain you a good amount of power, be more reliable (and not nearly the level of damaging to your motor), and cost you MUCH less. This is ideal as well as you said you are pinching pennies as it is.
There's a reason there aren't Turbo and Supercharged F-bodies everywhere. It's because to do so costs a lot of $. To go FI the correct way, you will not only need the head unit, and all the supporting mods, but you'll need to build your motor to take the boost. Dropping the CR, getting forged pistons, 4 bolt mains, ect. Once you've built the motor to take the boost, then you can really take advantage of going FI and run more in the 15-20#'s of boost range and see RWHP numbers in the 500-700+ range. But then you also have to consider the other things you'll need to withstand the power like tranny/clutch, driveshaft, rear, and God help you if you want to be able to use the power (traction), then you'll need a ton of suspension work. All together your looking at $12,000-$20,000 to do it right. $12,000 would be saving some money on doing it cheep by purchasing from companies like Eagle, or Summit. Or you can get the bullit proof stuff like I did and go with companies like Lunati, and Oliver and your price tag will be closer to the $20,000 mark.1995 Z28 - disfunctional now, perhaps insane after its "treatment"
1998 Formula WS6 -Heads, cam, intake, bolt ons 441RWHP
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03-23-2009, 09:08 AM #16
Call911 - Very well said. Lots of valid points! Only thing I would like to add for people who may not be swayed by your points and cost estimates... The cost estimates are exactly that, Estimates. There are so many variable things a person looking to go the FI route could choose from that there is no actual cost range. Someone could spend less than $12k on a basic forced induction setup. Just as someone could easily eclipse $20k. I personally fit into the latter group of people
- Justin
Custom tuning with HpTuners and your most common standalones.Originally Posted by WJ Birmingham
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03-23-2009, 04:32 PM #17
I guess it would be possible to get used parts (like the blower itself), a very cheep block, and pinch pennies here and there, but for the average guy who wants to buy at least "new" cheep parts from Summit and Eagle, he would still be in the range of around $12,000 invested, whereas others of us who want the more powerfull rock solid setups who spend the coin in parts like Diamond and Oliver will still have the $20,000 range. But, "yes" it is an average.
This is all to say they still are doing it the "right way" by purchasing everything they need to safely run FI. Of course they can just slap a blower on the car for cheep without doing anything else, but that gets back into the possibility they will be investing in a new motor before their first oil change.Last edited by CALL911; 03-23-2009 at 04:41 PM.
1995 Z28 - disfunctional now, perhaps insane after its "treatment"
1998 Formula WS6 -Heads, cam, intake, bolt ons 441RWHP
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05-25-2009, 07:14 AM #18
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05-25-2009, 08:30 AM #19
what the hell is that????????????
born with LTX in his blood!
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05-25-2009, 08:50 AM #20Pr0jekt Turb0?
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just stupid spam, don't worry I reported it
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