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  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by XtinctZ28 View Post
    I am not a big fan of the rap or pop shit, so I went for a nice clean sound with enough clean bass to drive my heavy metal and I am happy with the results. Some of my stuff is getting outdated but it still works for me.

    HU: OLDER Kenwood Excelon (I am not even sure of the model number ~5yrs old now )
    Front doors: Polk MM Components
    Rear Sails: Polk MM 2 -ways
    Sub: Boston Acoustics G5 DVC 10"
    Amps: Kenwood 4 ch., Kenwood 2 ch. (Sub)
    Subthump Stealth Box
    Subthump Amp rack

    The only thing I have pics of right now is what is in the back.
    thats a nice clean install. damn if your stuff is getting outdated then my stuff belongs in a museum. older stuff doesnt mean bad, in the case fo car audio, the older stuff tends to be better.
    2001 Granatelli Camaro: LS1, A4, full suspension, C5 y2k wheels, some stereo, and a few custom touches.

  2. #12
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    LS1Dave, how do you like those 7" subs in the sail panels? I have been considering these for awhile but not sure if I want to since I have a 10" already.

    I have an MTX box with an Alpine Type R 500w RMS 10" sub on an Alpine 500.1 amp, Alpine CDA-9884 head unit, Alpine Type S 6.5" coax in doors (which will soon be replaced with Alpine Type R components on an Alpine 2/4 channel). Yeah. I like Alpine
    -Tim R.- 2001 Trans Am WS6 M6

    Patriot 225/229 .580/.590 114+4

  3. #13
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    honestly, i love them, but i dont know if i could justify them with a 10" sub. I got a 12" so that i had enough frequency separation to cover a wider range.

    i must say though, they are hardly viable as a subwoofer, but work great as low midbass drivers.
    2001 Granatelli Camaro: LS1, A4, full suspension, C5 y2k wheels, some stereo, and a few custom touches.

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by XtinctZ28 View Post
    I am not a big fan of the rap or pop shit, so I went for a nice clean sound with enough clean bass to drive my heavy metal and I am happy with the results. Some of my stuff is getting outdated but it still works for me.

    HU: OLDER Kenwood Excelon (I am not even sure of the model number ~5yrs old now )
    Front doors: Polk MM Components
    Rear Sails: Polk MM 2 -ways
    Sub: Boston Acoustics G5 DVC 10"
    Amps: Kenwood 4 ch., Kenwood 2 ch. (Sub)
    Subthump Stealth Box
    Subthump Amp rack

    The only thing I have pics of right now is what is in the back.
    Ben, I wonder if you have any pictures of the am prack before install. I would like to just build my own. I want that soooo bad. I also want to do the dual stealth boxes. Damn.

  5. #15
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    Also, how does that rack attach? Does it use the screws from the tail lights? ANy help would be great!

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by SoulReaver View Post
    Also, how does that rack attach? Does it use the screws from the tail lights? ANy help would be great!
    You can either fab up a mount connected to the tail light studs, or you can screw it into the body. Since I have LEDs in my tail lights and will never have to mess with those again, I just went ahead and attached 2 screws on top and 2 on bottom. The bastard isn't going anywhere

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian2006 View Post
    You can either fab up a mount connected to the tail light studs, or you can screw it into the body. Since I have LEDs in my tail lights and will never have to mess with those again, I just went ahead and attached 2 screws on top and 2 on bottom. The bastard isn't going anywhere
    Huh, that's what I thought, but didn't actually think that's how you did it for some reason. Damn. take some pictures if you ever take it off so I can build one.

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by XtinctZ28 View Post
    I can probably still get you some good dimensions even with the rack installed. Let me try to measure it sometime this week and see what I can come up with. I'll look for some pics too, I do not know if I took any before or not.

    On mine, I made some funky brackets that hold it on with 3 small nylock nuts on 1/4" Dia. studs sticking out. My sub has disconnects in the line and the box is just a normal slip fit (not attached), so all I have to do is pull the main fuse, disconnect the wiring from the terminals on the amps, undo the 3 nuts and the entire amp rack and sub will come out in about 15 minutes. Saves me ~64lbs all together when I need it!

    So if all else fails, I will just measure the rack next time I take it out.
    Sweet, thanks Ben. Your a Champ!

  9. #19
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    ive worked with those amp racks before...simple design, i really dont like it though. it was hard to bolt it in, but then again, i was working with very low light.
    2001 Granatelli Camaro: LS1, A4, full suspension, C5 y2k wheels, some stereo, and a few custom touches.

  10. #20
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    No need to get dimensions, I've got you covered



    http://www.cardomain.com/ride/133032/5

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