yeah guppymech that is the the melonized gear on that oil pump drive. i bought a new oil pump drive cause mine was cracked and got a melonized gear at the same time. when they both came in i noticed...

sorry i typed in the wrong part #. the correct part # is 19052845. you can get at any gm dealer or gmpartsdirect.com. the list price is $59.78 but gmpartsdirect has it for $30.79
sorry again for...

im using the gm melonized gear with the melling high pressure pump. gm part #19052485, nastyz on this forum had issues with the lunati gear and installed the gm melonized gear and is not having any...

glad to hear all is good with your wife. good luck with finding a good lt1 engine and with your camaro.

i have 2 bolt mains with arp studs on my daily driver and are using the stock windage tray with the stock oil pan. the arp part number is 134-5502
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-134-5502/

according to the arp website if you get any more than .001" variation when you torque the bolts you should replace the bolt. i would give them a call or place where you purchased your bolts from and...

got me thinking of getting a stretch gauge. just torqued my short block assembly down a couple of weeks ago also using arp rod bolts. should be putting motor in in the next couple of weeks. even with...

think about what would be stronger spraying, an aluminum block ls1 or an iron block lt1. the guys making serious reliable power on an ls platform are running lsx iron blocks which are very costly....

ive seen the microsquirt works well with the gm optispark. have seen some problems when used with the MSD optisparks(the only other opti alternative in my opinion).

when you are checking with the scope what terminals are you putting the scope leads on also what time and gain settings are you using on the scope? like chris said the pcm does have a resistor...

that kit looks like a generic helicoil. time serts are much stronger than helicoils. most gm dealerships use timeserts as it is the method that GM uses to repair damaged threads. i have used...

you would need to get a new opti harness. maybe have to swap a few of the sensors.just thought of something else the 96 uses a crank sensor in the timing cover but you could most likely have that...

thats a F body cooler out of a 93 z28

i might have an extra stock one if you are interested

that custom grind cam is way too big for your build power would peak a lot higher in the rpm range. i would even say that the 306 cam would be too big for your build with only bolt-ons and minor head...

dont knoe the exact spec but even if it is weak and just worn not damaged you would be able to shim it to bring back to spec. shims are available to do this and you can also set a lil tighter looser...

if you put a bigger pinion shim in there it will push the pinion gear closer to the carrier. try increasing the backlash that will help bring the pinion back some. also make sure the inner pinion...

if you are gonna swap the trans dont forget to add in the cost of new cross member, universal joints,yoke and drive shaft. not to mention a different torque converter. yes if you are going to put...

machining the rods corrects out of round wear caused by rotating force and makes bearing clearance consistent. decking the block gives you a flat surface for proper head gasket sealing and you also...

what area of the car does it sound like it is coming from? front, back, middle? do you feel a vibration when it happens and/or on take off? trying to help you figure this one out. like i asked before...

if it only happens with clutch pedal depressed i would suspect something in the clutch area then

what kind of mods do you have already?

what kind of budget do you have?

yeah, definitely not gonna like it. is it an auto or man? all that stuff looks good BTW

let me get this straight it only pops from approx 112-70 mph then stops? doe the noise sound like it is coming from front or back? anyway you can post a video of this?