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96LT1355Z28
04-01-2009, 04:16 AM
Let me start this out by crediting “The Merv” and “96lt1m6” on LS1Tech for providing the information to do this. I figured I’d do a step by step write up so everyone can see just how simple this is. The LT1 cars came with a “rag joint” which is made of rubber and breaks down over time. This process is speed up with the installation of headers which bring extreme heat to the rubber. The result is loose or sloppy feeling steering due to the flex in the deteriorated rubber joint. LS1 cars use u-joint style ends and can be easily modified to fit LT1 cars. An added benefit of the smaller u-joint is additional room for header clearance.

First what you’ll need:

-Steering shaft from an LS1 car
-11mm or7/16” socket or wrench to remove the steering shaft
-Hammer and a punch or similar object (air hammer if you’re spoiled)
-Small grinding tool (Dremel or metal grinding bit)
-Access to a welder (any exhaust shop should help you out if you don’t have one)
-A bench vise comes in very handy but isn’t required

2599

Start by removing the bolts from the stock steering shaft. There is one at the top and one at the bottom. Then remove the shaft from the car, it may take some mild persuasion if it’s never been off!

2600
http://ltxtech.com/forums/picture.php?pictureid=825&albumid=255&dl=1238558741&thumb=1 (http://ltxtech.com/forums/album.php?albumid=255&pictureid=825)

Once it’s out set it next to the LS shaft and you can see exactly what you have to do. The ends of the LS shaft are slightly off compared to the LT one.

2601
http://ltxtech.com/forums/picture.php?pictureid=826&albumid=255&dl=1238558741&thumb=1 (http://ltxtech.com/forums/album.php?albumid=255&pictureid=826)

The LS shaft has an end that is splined and can be removed and re-indexed to match your LT shaft. If this isn’t done the steering wheel would be off in the car. You will need to grind off the area where the factory crimped the splined shaft so it can be removed.

2602
http://ltxtech.com/forums/picture.php?pictureid=832&albumid=255&dl=1238558845&thumb=1 (http://ltxtech.com/forums/album.php?albumid=255&pictureid=832)

Once you’ve ground off the factory crimp you must separate the two pieces. I used a bench vice and an air hammer. After you’ve separated them lay the pieces next to your LT shaft so you can see where you need to index the splines. I put a screwdriver through the fixed ends to aid in keeping the shafts aligned. You can see the LT shaft is not a perfect 90 degrees.

2603
http://ltxtech.com/forums/picture.php?pictureid=828&albumid=255&dl=1238558783&thumb=1 (http://ltxtech.com/forums/album.php?albumid=255&pictureid=828)
http://ltxtech.com/forums/picture.php?pictureid=827&albumid=255&dl=1238558741&thumb=1 (http://ltxtech.com/forums/album.php?albumid=255&pictureid=827)
http://ltxtech.com/forums/picture.php?pictureid=829&albumid=255&dl=1238558783&thumb=1 (http://ltxtech.com/forums/album.php?albumid=255&pictureid=829)

Once you’ve re-indexed the u-joint end you’ll need to press it back onto the shaft. I used the bench vice, a block of wood, and a hammer. Make sure to put it back in the same spot it was in when you removed it (don’t hit it on too far).

Next clean off some spots on the splined area and put a few tack welds on to hold the two pieces together. This does the same thing as the factory crimp you ground off earlier.


http://ltxtech.com/forums/picture.php?pictureid=830&albumid=255&dl=1238558783&thumb=1 (http://ltxtech.com/forums/album.php?albumid=255&pictureid=830)

Congratulations now install your new LS steering shaft in your car and enjoy more header clearance and tighter steering!

*Note* I could only put 5 pics in this post, there's a few more in my profile pics labeled "LS steering shaft"


http://ltxtech.com/forums/picture.php?pictureid=831&albumid=255&dl=1238558810&thumb=1 (http://ltxtech.com/forums/album.php?albumid=255&pictureid=831)

96lt1m6
04-01-2009, 05:19 AM
damn i did not get any credit for this
about time someone did a write up w/pics. i have done a few but i never seem to take pics when i am working(don't think of it ) good job bro.however, what is the 9/16 wrench or socket for? the bolts that hold the shaft on are 7/16

when completed it is cleaner and less bulky than the ragjoint eliminator!


http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-modifications/1079569-rag-joint-eliminator.html

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-modifications/1021501-installing-rag-joint-eliminator.html

MeanGreen94Z
04-03-2009, 03:28 AM
haha i JUST bought one of these and had planned on doing a write up :) i always use a 11mm socket lol

96LT1355Z28
04-03-2009, 04:23 AM
what is the 9/16 wrench or socket for? the bolts that hold the shaft on are 7/16

Changed, I couldn't remember what I used! I took pics and then did the write up a few days later!;)

mr maimi
04-03-2009, 05:51 AM
if i remember i think rudy was the first one that did that

Ponch95
06-01-2009, 08:45 PM
I just finnished this project Friday, I love the results:finger: Followed the write-up to the letter Thanks guys.

Fixxer99TA
12-18-2009, 03:50 PM
Good post, might actually get around to do this one this winter. Sounds like its had good results, and is really a GREAT idea.

96lt1m6
01-11-2010, 08:08 PM
Good post, might actually get around to do this one this winter. Sounds like its had good results, and is really a GREAT idea.

oh you bet it is, since i did this last year my car has much stronger/tighter steering its a cleaner approach than the ragjoint elim kit

Nocturnal Z
02-09-2010, 08:16 PM
I just picked up an LS1 steering shaft and was getting ready to start grinding when I thought of something....

I have an aftermarket steering wheel, therefore no longer have an airbag clock spring...is there any reason why I couldn't install the LS1 shaft as-is, then simply remove my steering wheel and adaper and re-clock it so the steering wheel sits strait? Is there any reason I shouldn't do it that way?

96lt1m6
02-09-2010, 08:53 PM
Should not make much of a difference for your situation however if it were mine i would still mod the shaft!

Nocturnal Z
02-09-2010, 09:03 PM
Should not make much of a difference for your situation however if it were mine i would still mod the shaft!

Is there something othet than the clockspring in the steering column that has to be clocked a certain way to function properly or something? Only thing I knew of was the clockspring and I have eliminated it...so whats the reason why you would still mod the shaft if you were in my shoes?

96lt1m6
02-09-2010, 09:08 PM
Simply because it keeps it at the 12 o' clock position,also keeps the horn wiring intact.......

Nocturnal Z
02-09-2010, 09:18 PM
Well I can re-clock the adapter to maintain the 12 o'clock position, thats what I sayin. Not sure about the horn wiring issue, but the wire for it just slides through a hole in the adapter, so shouldn't be a big deal now that the clock spring is gone.

I understand that for anyone that wants to keep the airbag, moding the shaft is a must. I'm just not sure that moding the shaft is the only option in my case.

Maybe I just need to get out in my cold-ass garage and remove the steering wheel to see what I'm up against here.

I'm certainly not one to half-ass anything on my car, so if there is a good reason why I shouldn't do it this way then I won't. I just wanna be sure before I go cutting on an otherwise perfectly good steering shaft. :)

Twisted Z
10-06-2010, 08:32 AM
if i remember i think rudy was the first one that did that


I did one back in 99 ;)

94basemodel
01-20-2011, 03:54 PM
Well looks like Ive got to do this mod now. More work for this winter.

iggy913
02-04-2011, 02:55 AM
What does an LS shaft cost? If you had to buy one I would imagine it isn't but so cheap?

What about other options to gain header clearance and steering feel? Jegs sells all kinds of steering shafts and u-joints for not a whole lot of money, and you would have a brand new piece. For instance you can buy two U-joints and an 18" long steering shaft for $140 total, isn't that all you would need? Does anyone know what size the fittings would need to be to go over the steering column and the steering box? If you really needed room and had some more money they also sell a double u-joint that you could put on the steering box end and almost have a straight shot at the column huging the inner fender all the way up.

Just some ideas, I'm very interested in possibilities since my headers rub my steering shaft now.

n2ocamaro
02-04-2011, 08:05 PM
I paid $30.00 shipped for a used LS steering shaft from a member on LS1Tech.

wyldcdn
02-05-2011, 11:26 PM
so much easier. I found this. With access to a lift. Took me about 20 min up and down. Works great.
http://www.unbalancedengineering.com/Camaro/Rag_Joint/

Sempire
03-22-2011, 01:34 PM
so much easier. I found this. With access to a lift. Took me about 20 min up and down. Works great.
http://www.unbalancedengineering.com/Camaro/Rag_Joint/

That's what I did.. Made life much easier, specially for the price..

Would like to further stiffen up my steering though.. I would almost love to go manual steering..

96LT1355Z28
03-26-2011, 11:31 AM
That's a nice kit but it takes up just as much room as the stock rag joint, some poeple do this mod not only for the tighter steering but to gain clearance for headers.:cool:

black heartbeat
03-26-2011, 12:13 PM
I just bought the steering shaft but I don't have an air hammer so this may be interesting, plus my rag joint is so worn I man need to drill out the rivets and bolt them together on the rag joint to get it to sit at the right angle to match the ls1 to it

ShakerTransAm
01-23-2012, 03:19 AM
Just figured I would add an interesting piece of info to this. I decided to put an A1 Cardone remanufactured LS rack in my 95 formula M6 while doing the LS shaft mod. I researched whether or not to modify the shaft because of the LS rack being installed. Everything i seemed to find said that i still needed to modify the shaft and that the difference was in the steering column NOT the rack. Well i went and cut apart my new LS shaft i just bought and matched it perfectly to my stock LT shaft. When i went to bolt everything together, the shaft was 90 degrees off.....Would have bolted right up if i didn't modify the LS shaft....now i have to either cut mine back apart (which sucks because i sort of over did it with the tack welds) or buy yet another LS shaft and bolt it up right out of the box

popo8
01-23-2012, 07:57 AM
Just figured I would add an interesting piece of info to this. I decided to put an A1 Cardone remanufactured LS rack in my 95 formula M6 while doing the LS shaft mod. I researched whether or not to modify the shaft because of the LS rack being installed. Everything i seemed to find said that i still needed to modify the shaft and that the difference was in the steering column NOT the rack. Well i went and cut apart my new LS shaft i just bought and matched it perfectly to my stock LT shaft. When i went to bolt everything together, the shaft was 90 degrees off.....Would have bolted right up if i didn't modify the LS shaft....now i have to either cut mine back apart (which sucks because i sort of over did it with the tack welds) or buy yet another LS shaft and bolt it up right out of the box

Looks like popo is getting the shaft.... lol

96lt1m6
02-22-2012, 08:51 PM
Shaker...
This is quite disturbing to me..... I used a steering column from a 19k SS,steering shaft along with my stock Lt1steering rack with the shaft being the only modded part in my 96 z :(

LeadfootLT1
02-23-2012, 04:25 AM
Shaker...
This is quite disturbing to me..... I used a steering column from a 19k SS,steering shaft along with my stock Lt1steering rack with the shaft being the only modded part in my 96 z :(


Because the columns are the same. Look at it this way. The lt shaft matches the lt rack. The ls shaft matches the ls rack. Regardless of the column. So putting a ls shaft with a lt rack calls for modifying the shaft and viceversa.

When I put the shaft in my car(97ta) I also put a ls rack in thinking it was the same. But after going over everything in my car I realized I didn't have to mod the shaft and figured I must have the newer steering column since my car was the hybrid year. It wasn't until Tyler found out the hardway that the column is the same but rack is diff. Also in his research if I'm not mistaken the ls rack has a different ratio. Made both of our cars feel alot better when cornering.

popo8
02-23-2012, 04:28 AM
And now SHakers modified LS shaft is nicely attached to my LT rack.....

1badz
02-23-2012, 04:41 AM
I too have the shaft. Modified it the same way as it was described in the first post.

vetwnab
05-03-2012, 09:38 PM
Quick question on the "LS" shafts. Do all 98-02 V6 and V8 cars have the same shaft? My local wrecking yards have plenty of 98-02 V6 cars, but no V8 cars. I would assume that they are all the same.

Spartan7
05-03-2012, 11:17 PM
My 99 V6 did NOT have it. It matched the LT shaft with the ragjoint.

Jencks
05-19-2012, 08:54 PM
i just did this mod 5 minutes ago and it made a massive difference in my car! worth every cent of the $30 shipped. my original steering linkage had bad u joints and the rag joint was just totally shot..car feels like new.