every thing I need for H/C/I swap

[AChotrod]

I need to know every single thing I need for a H/C/I LT header w ory swap on a 96 formula. Or anything else you would do????
Every single thing you can think of POST UP!!!!!
this is what i have
LE2 built heads w/springs milled .030
LE2 cam
LE3 intake
MR g 5716 head gaskets
fel pro 1284 intake gaskets
comp 1305-16 1.6 pro mags
TFS 30400623-8 guide plates
ARP rocker studs
BBK 58 TB
autolite 104 plugs gapped .035
MSD 8.5 wires
LPP headers and ORY
delphi 37# injectors
meziere wp118hd elec water pump
What length pushrods????
What header bolts???
how many and wich lenght o2 extensions???
Anything else you can thin of?????
Thanks a ton
Mike

[96 Z-Ragtop]

Correct length push rod

Lotsa bandaids :doh:

Lotsa brew :doh:

[AChotrod]

it all comes down to the fn pushrods!LOL!:(:(:(

[Green96Z]

New banjo bolts, 4 new steam pipe gaskets, maybe new valve cover gaskets (not needed, but I changed mine), timing chain set, timing cover gasket set w/ front seals, header bolts (you didn't list any, and I wouldn't reuse the old ones), fuel filter (recommended when changing fuel injectors).

You will need 1 18" flat O2 extension for the passenger side header O2. You shouldn't need the one for the rear O2, but it is 24" square.

Go with ARP header bolts. The smaller head really makes them easier.

You will need a lot of other things as in tools and sealants:

Thread sealant (a must!), RTV Copper (or Black), front seal remover, front seal installer, something special for the WP seal (I used a sharpie marker), front hub installer (I made a custom one), front hub puller, breaker bar (you will NEED this for the old head bolts), swivel joints, a small box end wrench for the header bolts...

That's all I can think of now. I just did this two weeks ago, so if you have any more questions let me know while it's still fresh in my mind. :D

[96 Z-Ragtop]

it all comes down to the fn pushrods!LOL!:(:(:(


YUP

[AChotrod]

wtf are banjo bolts and steam pipe gaskets???:confused::confused::confused:

[Tyler Wheat]

Tune Tune Tune! I'm assuming that you already have that planned. Seems like you have thought of everything else.

Pushrod length should be checked per application IMO.

I would get the Stage 8 locking header bolts. Very very nice if you have to drive the car on a daily basis.

You should be able to get by with 2 O2 extensions and get the rear 2 tuned out. I can't remember for sure on the LT1 without looking, but I believe that the OBDII cars are 4 pin flat wire connectors.

The only other thing I can think of is the plug gap. I think the factory reccommends a .055 gap. I run my TR6 plugs at .035 when I'm expecting to be on the juice.

Take all that with a grain of salt. I think in another post, you put that Lloyd Elliot reccommended the Autolites and the .035 gap. I have no complaints with the brand of plugs, but the gap is weird to me. Then again, I'd listen to what Llyod says. He's the guy that gets paid for this. I'm sure I listen to Ed like you do Lloyd. If I have an idea that he shoots down, it gets thrown out the window lol.

[Green96Z]

wtf are banjo bolts and steam pipe gaskets???:confused::confused::confused:

They go to the crossover tube (steam pipe) on the back of the heads:

http://shbox.com/1/oil_pressure_sensor.jpg

You can use the old stuff, but I would highly recommend you get new bolts (mine were all gunked up) and new gaskets. There are 4 of them (http://shbox.com/1/steam_pipe_seal.jpg).

[Speed Density]

Those gaskets for the banjo are like $7 a peice x4, sucks ass!

[slowdime]

Those gaskets for the banjo are like $7 a peice x4, sucks ass!

1/4" NPT tap will fix that problem:cool:. Converted mine over to -an style fittings and braided lines.

[Green96Z]

:laugh: slowdime, I absolutely love that signature

[AChotrod]

Thanks Guys Every little bit helps!!!!!

[1FASTSS]

As someone else posted...LT4 timing chain. You can always ask Larry @ Speed to put a list together for ya! 37# injectors sound a little big for just H/C car...Sparying also? Why not go 42# then?

[AChotrod]

Its a 230/236 cam and the heads are milled .030 so thats what LE recomended. After I build the short block it will be a spray car!

[slowdime]

1/4" NPT tap will fix that problem:cool:. Converted mine over to -an style fittings and braided lines.


here's the steam pipe mod...

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/slowdime/DSCN0157.jpg

[AChotrod]

Looks good! Want to make me one?

[slowdime]

Looks good! Want to make me one?

Depends how much you want to pay;).

I would have to find out how much I can get the lines and fittings for around here. Jegs Pricing for the material is over 100 bucks.

[AChotrod]

Damn Thats $$$ for a couple fittings and braided hose!

Im about to get this thing going so anymore suggestions would be great!!!!

[grn95t/a]

new arp head bolts and a bottom tap to clean the bolt holes out. and a can of "the right stuff" for the ends of the intake manifold. a new pcv valve. and a push rod lenght checker.

[AChotrod]

standard SBC ARP 070-134-2001............ Is that the right ones???

[grn95t/a]

134-2001 are intake bolts, you need the 134-3601 head bolts. there they same ones i bought for mine when it goes back together one day! lol! and depending on how many miles are on her you may need a new cam thrust plate.

[AChotrod]

You are correct on the bolts! Dont know why I typed that I have the 3601s circled and highlighted in my jegs! LOL!
Good catch!!!

[AChotrod]

Looks like its all going in the 19th so I need to know anything im forgetting
I ordered the head bolts
timing cover gaskets, and valve cover gaskets
Anything else would help a ton.
I dont want the car to sit there waiting on stuff I should have had.