LTX into 2nd gen S10

[WhiteGhost94]

Has anyone here done this?

Curious if the oil pan will clear as well as any other parts i might have over looked that i might need

[96lt1m6]

pan clears fine..
www.s10v8.com (http://www.s10v8.com)
www.s10forum.com (http://www.s10forum.com)
www.v8s10.org (http://www.v8s10.org)
www.v8s10.com (http://www.v8s10.com)

[chevy42083]

Well... pan requires some massaging. At least on my setup.
It was limited to heating the crossmember and hitting it with a hammer.
I'm using an Fbody oil pan, maybe others are different. All mounts seem to be a little different too...so your mileage may vary.

Headers must be s10 specific... no block huggers or generic headers. This is because the motor mount location, and headers wrap around the steering column.
Keep an eye on the specs of the headers you get...some go around the frame into the wheel well or even below frame... mainly drag headers, and only room for skinnies up front.
SOME people use stock manifolds... i couldn't tell you which ones work best.... v8s10.org is a good source though.

Radiator. Easiest way is to move the radiator forward into the core support. You can either get creative and trim an access notch/hole to get to the radiator cap, use an inline filler, or buy a swap radiator. Probably need to get creative if you are keeping A/C. You don't HAVE to move the radiator forward, but it gives you lots of space.

my old notched setup...
http://s-seriesforum.com/albums/album59/Nats04_3.sized.jpg

I don't have many good pics of it, but at the bottom of this one you can see the fill tube extension on my swap radiator (made by superior radiator, bought off ebay).
http://s-seriesforum.com/albums/album59/DSCN1447.sized.jpg

Before trimming the core so it would sit down in (almost flush)...
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-sf2p/v309/230/7/37505218/n37505218_35066169_4400.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs033.snc1/2661_596170582586_37505218_36640559_2284067_n.jpg

Control arms can be an issue with some headers and drop kits. My truck was only lowered ~2 or 3in, but it was enough for the stock control arms to beat the headers in pretty good.
I recently swapped to some gbodyparts.com arms, and have MILES of clearance. These are basically circle track stock car arms... no bushings. But they are cheap. There are some nicer adjustable setups that may be better depending on what you want.
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs004.snc1/4152_639260265516_37505218_37019621_8202933_n.jpg



My old photo album's server crashed, so I don't have a ton of good pics hosted, but here's what I have...
http://s-seriesforum.com/gallery/album59?page=1

[Bowtie4Life]

was wondering what happened to our resident lt1 powered dime, on the stock mani's that were used, I believe they were stock late third gen mani's, I want to say they were off the 305's, but I'm not sure if it would matter, I'm sure all the v8 cars had the same exhaust manifolds. i believe I saw the info on s10forums.com, but that was a LONG time ago. (3 1/2 years ago maybe)

[chevy42083]

lol, I checked out of automotive stuff for awhile, but recently got a PM from someone on here. Things didn't go well with getting my truck back on the road (after blowing all the money I should have saved on it), so I kinda shunned car sites. :jest: Maybe I should check to see the latest update I put on here. Some nice stuff did happen... just still can't cruise in it.


Yeah, I remember someone trying impala stuff, it actually exited too far behind the motor... aka hit the firewall. Past that, not sure.
Like i said, I'd prefer any of the headers over manifolds.... but some people are building on true junkyard budgets.

[Blubird]

im considering building a stock lt1 with just hot cam to put in my 02 blazer,i know you can do shorties or midlengths with no issues

[chevy42083]

shorties/mids: "no issues" is kinda opinionated.
On my hedman headers, the bolts are right by the lower edge of the firewall (where vertical meets 45deg area).
It REQUIRES two people... one under truck, and one to twist around, and get to the bolts from all different angles. I use a wrench in the gap between the body and frame for some, a swivel and shorty socket for others, and double joint my wrist for others. Some must be twisted from underneith, some can only be held from underneith. It's difficult... but works.
The 3 bolt type flange must be turned so a flat edge is parallel to the firewall... if it's not, (on mine) it'll rattle when the motor torques up. Sucks, cause that would make it easier to reach certain bolts.

So yeah, no major issues, but not exactly designed for it either. Long Tubes can be a real pain, and as of awhile ago, there weren't any companies making a good set.

Sidenote...look into a solid steering shaft replacement. Many people used Jeep steering shafts. It simply requires being cut down. This elimates the rag joint which can have some slop in it, but is also much thinner giving more room around the headers. This is a CHEAP junkyard mod, An expensive new dealer part mod, or a medium cost mod if you find someone on ebay selling them (what I did).
97- use a different shaft type than 98+. I THINK 97- was wrangler, 98+ was cherokee... but you'll need to look it all up.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Steering-shaft-upgrade-Camaro-Syclone-GN-V8-S-10-G-body-/150472298814?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories

Old thread, so pics are broken, but a good read if you are looking at jeep shafts...
http://www.s-seriesforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=73936&highlight=jeep+steering