mpe331lx
04-15-2010, 03:41 AM
Since day one, I have had nothing but issues with the Opti on 1hottcamaro's car.
When I first started gathering parts for the LT1 swap, I pulled the origional opti off of the motor. It had a lot of play in the shaft and the car that I pulled it from had 130K miles.
So I decide to buy an "OEM AC delco" opti off of ebay. It ends up being an all_ignition POS. It has no play in the shaft, so I put it on the car anyway. It failed with a low and high resolution pulse code within a couple thousand miles.
I put the stock one that I had laying around on it, and the rotor ended up coming apart on it (one srew was stripped/ threads ripped out)
I go out an but a true AC delco replacement opti form a local parts store. Here is the thread and quote from that thread I made about it:
http://ltxtech.com/forums/showthread.php?7096-Opti
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c22/mpe331lx/Fnopti.jpg
Fucking opti:hang:
Thats all
It just sucks that it is a new AC delco unit. I know it has less then 3000 miles (probably more like 1000) I'll have to check the oil change sticker (Id id an oil change the same time I did the opti).
Each opti issue/failure is pushing me closer and closer to this:
http://ltxtech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4563
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c22/mpe331lx/24x_LT1_Components_LS1_Coil_per_Cyl.jpg
Im covered! I got it new from a local parts store that stocks Delphi/AC parts. I talked to them earlier today, I'm good until may of next year:peace2:
They have one in stock and I'll be picking it up monday:)
Well, the new one lasted for a very short time and shit the bed last week.
Right as I shifted into second on a WOT pull, the car just died.....I KNEW right away what happend.
I pulled the opti today and the metal tang was broken off just like the last one.
I already got a new AC opti (warranteed out), but am not going to install it yet.
Has anyone had this failure with an MSD cap and rotor?
I was contemplating breaking off the plastic nubs that retain the tang from the start and either riveting it back on or using a small screw.
I'm pretty sure the new caps and rotors on the AC units are crap over seas junk...
I double chacked to make sure that the dowel from the camshaft was not too long or bottoming out in the opti's shaft.
Both of the new AC units had just as much play in the shaft as my 130K mile opti. I had re loctited the rotor screws just to make sure there would be no issue (although it truly was not needed, they had a strong green thread locker on them already)
When I recieved my thired replacement AC opti (which also had a shitload of play in the shaft), I installed a new MSD cap and rotor. The rotor is a much better design with the metal tang being held down with a brass screw in the rear and the front part is encased/molded into the rotor.
After many runs, I thought this was the hot ticket. When one day the car started missing a little at WOT. It progressively got worse, to the point of backfiring with more then 1.2 throttle, and dropping 1-2 cyl at idle.
There were no opti related codes, so I checked out a few things on the car, but everything was pointing to the opti. I pulled it off and the first thing I did was started shaking the shit out of it..... (all the others rattled bad, due to the rotor breaking). Nothing.
I took the cap off of it and it looked ok, but I was able to see where the rotor was making some contact with the top of the cap. It just had som scrub marks, nothing major.
I pulled the rotor off and the little locating tab was broken off (but the rotor still appeared to be solidly retained by the screws). I'll try and explain this the best that I can: There retaining tabs wher the disk sits on the shafts locating tab were all crunced up, allowing the disk to move a little.
Here is a pic of one that I found off of google, and the red arrow is pointing at the area that was bent.
I luckily was able to get it warranteed out for the 4th time.:claps: But they told me " This is the last one....Thats it!":shame:
Now the new one has all the play that the others did. I just put it on the car without opening it up. I set the mallorey 685's rev limit to 4500 and am just babying it when I drive it, until I eitehr do the EFIconnection conversion, or come up with a solution that will work.
At this point I'm pretty much DEAD SET on the EFIconnection 24x kit with an LS1 PCM and coils. BYE, BYE opti.
One thing that has me thinking, Ive heard rumors that sometimes manufacturers send replacement parts that may "pass" inspection, or just meet allowable tolerances, and the better "tighter" parts go to the dealer. Has anyone ever heard of this, or have any proof to add to it.
I'm thinking about going down to the local dealer and seeing if they have one in stock, just too check the shaft play.
If I find that these ones that Ive been putting on the car are truly inferior to a dealer bought part, and I can gat one without any play on the shaft, I may take one last chance, and put another new MSD cap and rotor on one and keep my fingers crossed....
When I first started gathering parts for the LT1 swap, I pulled the origional opti off of the motor. It had a lot of play in the shaft and the car that I pulled it from had 130K miles.
So I decide to buy an "OEM AC delco" opti off of ebay. It ends up being an all_ignition POS. It has no play in the shaft, so I put it on the car anyway. It failed with a low and high resolution pulse code within a couple thousand miles.
I put the stock one that I had laying around on it, and the rotor ended up coming apart on it (one srew was stripped/ threads ripped out)
I go out an but a true AC delco replacement opti form a local parts store. Here is the thread and quote from that thread I made about it:
http://ltxtech.com/forums/showthread.php?7096-Opti
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c22/mpe331lx/Fnopti.jpg
Fucking opti:hang:
Thats all
It just sucks that it is a new AC delco unit. I know it has less then 3000 miles (probably more like 1000) I'll have to check the oil change sticker (Id id an oil change the same time I did the opti).
Each opti issue/failure is pushing me closer and closer to this:
http://ltxtech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4563
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c22/mpe331lx/24x_LT1_Components_LS1_Coil_per_Cyl.jpg
Im covered! I got it new from a local parts store that stocks Delphi/AC parts. I talked to them earlier today, I'm good until may of next year:peace2:
They have one in stock and I'll be picking it up monday:)
Well, the new one lasted for a very short time and shit the bed last week.
Right as I shifted into second on a WOT pull, the car just died.....I KNEW right away what happend.
I pulled the opti today and the metal tang was broken off just like the last one.
I already got a new AC opti (warranteed out), but am not going to install it yet.
Has anyone had this failure with an MSD cap and rotor?
I was contemplating breaking off the plastic nubs that retain the tang from the start and either riveting it back on or using a small screw.
I'm pretty sure the new caps and rotors on the AC units are crap over seas junk...
I double chacked to make sure that the dowel from the camshaft was not too long or bottoming out in the opti's shaft.
Both of the new AC units had just as much play in the shaft as my 130K mile opti. I had re loctited the rotor screws just to make sure there would be no issue (although it truly was not needed, they had a strong green thread locker on them already)
When I recieved my thired replacement AC opti (which also had a shitload of play in the shaft), I installed a new MSD cap and rotor. The rotor is a much better design with the metal tang being held down with a brass screw in the rear and the front part is encased/molded into the rotor.
After many runs, I thought this was the hot ticket. When one day the car started missing a little at WOT. It progressively got worse, to the point of backfiring with more then 1.2 throttle, and dropping 1-2 cyl at idle.
There were no opti related codes, so I checked out a few things on the car, but everything was pointing to the opti. I pulled it off and the first thing I did was started shaking the shit out of it..... (all the others rattled bad, due to the rotor breaking). Nothing.
I took the cap off of it and it looked ok, but I was able to see where the rotor was making some contact with the top of the cap. It just had som scrub marks, nothing major.
I pulled the rotor off and the little locating tab was broken off (but the rotor still appeared to be solidly retained by the screws). I'll try and explain this the best that I can: There retaining tabs wher the disk sits on the shafts locating tab were all crunced up, allowing the disk to move a little.
Here is a pic of one that I found off of google, and the red arrow is pointing at the area that was bent.
I luckily was able to get it warranteed out for the 4th time.:claps: But they told me " This is the last one....Thats it!":shame:
Now the new one has all the play that the others did. I just put it on the car without opening it up. I set the mallorey 685's rev limit to 4500 and am just babying it when I drive it, until I eitehr do the EFIconnection conversion, or come up with a solution that will work.
At this point I'm pretty much DEAD SET on the EFIconnection 24x kit with an LS1 PCM and coils. BYE, BYE opti.
One thing that has me thinking, Ive heard rumors that sometimes manufacturers send replacement parts that may "pass" inspection, or just meet allowable tolerances, and the better "tighter" parts go to the dealer. Has anyone ever heard of this, or have any proof to add to it.
I'm thinking about going down to the local dealer and seeing if they have one in stock, just too check the shaft play.
If I find that these ones that Ive been putting on the car are truly inferior to a dealer bought part, and I can gat one without any play on the shaft, I may take one last chance, and put another new MSD cap and rotor on one and keep my fingers crossed....